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Italy Natural Wine Guide: From Friuli Orange to Sicilian Amphora | Sangiovese, Nebbiolo & 3,000 Years of Tradition

Friuli Orange & Sicilian Amphora

Italy

From the amber wines of Oslavia to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, discover how Italian natural winemakers are revolutionizing the world's oldest wine culture with amphora-aged amphorae, skin-contact whites, and zero-sulfur expressions of Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, and Frappato

Orange Wine Amphora Sangiovese Nebbiolo Biodynamic 3,000 Years
132k Hectares Organic
21% Organic Vineyard Share
3,428% Natural Wine Growth
1,623 Natural Wine Venues

The Birthplace of Natural Wine

Where ancient tradition meets the modern natural wine revolution

Italy—home to 3,000 years of continuous viticulture—is experiencing a natural wine renaissance that has taken the world by storm. With 132,441 hectares of certified organic vineyards (21% of total winegrowing area), Italy leads Europe in organic viticulture. The natural wine movement here isn't a trend; it's a return to the way wine was always made before industrialization.

This guide focuses on the pioneers of Italian natural wine—producers who have revived ancient techniques like Georgian qvevri (amphora) aging and extended skin-contact maceration. Josko Gravner in Friuli buried 20 amphorae in his cellar to create the now-legendary "orange wines." Arianna Occhipinti in Sicily crafts ethereal Frappato with zero additions. COS (Giusto Occhipinti) has been making wine in terracotta since 2000, proving that Sicily was destined for natural wine.

From Friuli's "Oslavia" (the world capital of orange wine) to Mount Etna's volcanic slopes, from Tuscan Sangiovese to Campanian Aglianico, Italian natural wine represents the purest expression of place. These wines—often made with indigenous varieties you've never heard of—are alive, unpredictable, and utterly captivating.

Key Facts

  • Location: Mediterranean, 20 wine regions
  • History: 3,000+ years (Greek colonization)
  • Key Regions: Friuli, Sicily, Tuscany, Piedmont, Campania
  • Main Grapes: Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Nero d'Avola, Frappato
  • Method: Amphora, skin-contact, biodynamic, zero sulfur
  • Style: Textural, high-acid, indigenous, oxidative
  • Notable: Highest organic vineyard share in world (17.8%)

From Ancient Rome to the Orange Revolution

3,000 years of Italian wine evolution

1000 BCE

Greek Foundations

Greek colonists bring viticulture to Sicily and Southern Italy (Magna Graecia). Indigenous varieties like Aglianico (from "Hellenic") and Greco trace their origins to this period. The Etruscans in Tuscany and the Romans later perfect winemaking techniques that would define European viticulture for millennia.

1607

Cerasuolo di Vittoria

Countess Vittoria Colonna Henriquez-Cabrera founds the city of Vittoria in Sicily, offering land grants to farmers who plant vines. The Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend (Nero d'Avola and Frappato) is born—today Sicily's only DOCG wine. COS winery's "Pithos" range pays homage to this history.

1980

COS is Founded

Three friends—Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Cirino Strano—found COS in Vittoria, Sicily. Named after the initials of their surnames, they begin experimenting with traditional methods, eventually pioneering the use of buried amphorae (qvevri) in Italian winemaking.

1997

Gravner's Revelation

Josko Gravner in Friuli visits Georgia and discovers qvevri winemaking. He buries 20 large amphorae in his cellar in Oslavia, starting the "orange wine" revolution. He eliminates modern technology—no temperature control, no selected yeasts, minimal sulfur. The "Anfora" wines become legendary.

2003

Cantina Giardino

Antonio and Daniela De Gruttola establish Cantina Giardino in Campania's Irpinia region, seeking to preserve abandoned old vines of Aglianico, Coda di Volpe, and Fiano. They adopt zero-sulfur winemaking after realizing the small amounts they added disappeared during aging anyway.

2010-Present

The Explosion

Italy's natural wine venues grow by 3,428% between 2016-2024. Rome becomes the #3 city globally for natural wine (130 venues). The "vino da uve macerate" (skin-contact) category is formalized in Friuli. Young winemakers like Chiara Condello (Emilia-Romagna) and Il Censo (Sicily) gain international cult status.

"Pithos is purity without any contaminants. The wine that is born this way allows us to have something pure and authentic because the vessel is neutral and doesn't add anything." — Giusto Occhipinti, COS Winery

Volcanic, Limestone & Clay

The diverse terroirs of Italian natural wine

🟠 Friuli/Oslavia

The world capital of orange wine. Ponca soil (marl/sandstone mix) in rolling hills on the Italy-Slovenia border. Home to Gravner, Radikon, and the "macerated white" revolution. Heavy clay and limestone produce structured, age-worthy wines. Cold Bora winds create high acidity. Indigenous varieties: Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Malvasia Istriana.

🌋 Sicily/Etna & Vittoria

Europe's most exciting natural wine frontier. Vittoria's red sandy soils yield elegant Frappato and Nero d'Avola (Arianna Occhipinti, COS). Mount Etna's volcanic black soils produce Nerello Mascalese of extraordinary complexity. High elevations (500-1,000m) moderate the Mediterranean heat. Ancient amphora traditions meet modern natural wine.

🏔️ Campania/Irpinia

Mountainous inland Campania with heavy clay and limestone soils. Home to Cantina Giardino and ancient Aglianico vines (50-100+ years old). High diurnal temperature variation. Volcanic influence from Mount Vesuvius. Indigenous whites: Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe. Wines of deep structure and longevity.

🌿 Tuscany

From Chianti's galestro (shale) soils to the coast's sandy vineyards. Sangiovese thrives here, but natural winemakers also explore Trebbiano and Malvasia for orange wines. Clay and limestone mix. Continental climate with Mediterranean influence. Chiara Condello in Predappio proves Emilia-Romagna's Sangiovese rivals Tuscany's.

🏛️ Piedmont

Calcareous marl (Tortonian and Helvetian) in the Langhe hills. Home to Barolo (Nebbiolo) and Barbaresco. Foggy, continental climate with long growing seasons. Recent natural wine converts are challenging the region's traditionalist reputation with zero-sulfur Barolo and experimental whites. Tannic, structured reds built for aging.

🌊 Emilia-Romagna

La Stoppa in Piacenza champions long-macerated Barbera and Bonarda on ancient red clay soils. The region straddles the Apennines—mountainous interior vs. coastal plains. Rich in indigenous varieties: Lambrusco, Albana, Malvasia. Focus on field blends and extended aging. Warm climate produces powerful, structured wines.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region Climate Soil Natural Wine Character
Friuli Continental, Bora winds Ponca (marl/sandstone) Orange, structured, mineral
Sicily Mediterranean, high elevation Volcanic, red sand Elegant, saline, volcanic
Campania Mountainous, continental Clay, limestone Powerful, tannic, ancient
Tuscany Continental, Mediterranean Galestro, clay, limestone Earthy, structured, classic
Piedmont Foggy, continental Calcareous marl Tannic, perfumed, age-worthy

The Featured Producers

The legends defining Italian natural wine

Friuli – The Orange Wine Masters

Josko Gravner
Gravner, Oslavia (Gorizia), Friuli
The godfather of Italian natural wine and orange wine pioneer. After a trip to Georgia in 1997, buried 20 qvevri (amphorae) in his cellar. Eliminated modern technology—no temperature control, no selected yeasts, no filtration. Ferments whites on skins for months (Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon). Wines age 6-7 years before release. Biodynamic farming. The "Breg" white blend and "Ribolla" are reference points for the natural wine world. Extreme purity and longevity.
Orange Wine Pioneer Amphora Biodynamic Legend
Stanko Radikon
Radikon, Oslavia, Friuli
Alongside Gravner, revolutionized skin-contact winemaking. Began full skin-contact vinification in 1995; eliminated sulfur entirely in 2002. Farms organically on ponca marl soils. Extended maceration (3-4 months) for whites. Aged 3-4 years in large Slavonian oak before release. Iconic 1-liter bottles designed for aging. "Ribolla Gialla" and "Jakot" (Tokai Friulano, name inverted to avoid EU regulations) are cult wines. S line offers accessible entry points. Son Saša continues the legacy.
Zero Sulfur Oslavia Skin Contact 1L Bottles
Dario Prinčič & Damijan Podversic
Oslavia, Friuli
Oslavia's "rebel duo"—often described as the next generation after Gravner and Radikon. Both work barefoot in the vineyards (Prinčič famously). Hands-on, ascetic approach: long macerations, low/no sulfur, no filtration. Podversic's "Kaplija" is an extremely complex, honeyed white. Prinčič makes wines of wild texture and precise structure. They represent the continued evolution of Friuli's skin-contact tradition, pushing boundaries while respecting tradition.
Barefoot Farming No Sulfur Rebels Oslavia

Sicily – Mediterranean Soul

Arianna Occhipinti
Vittoria, Sicily
One of the most important figures in global natural wine. Started at age 24 with 1 hectare in 2004; now 40 hectares. "Vineyards teach us to wait." Champion of Frappato—elevated it from blending grape to fine wine status. SP68 (named for the road passing her vineyards) is the gateway natural wine of Sicily—Frappato/Nero d'Avola blend. Il Frappato (single variety) and Il Siccagno (old vine Nero d'Avola) are benchmark wines. Organic/biodynamic, spontaneous fermentation, minimal sulfur. "Wines with tenderness and force."
Frappato Champion Woman Winemaker SP68 Vittoria
Giusto Occhipinti
COS, Vittoria, Sicily
Founded 1980 with two friends (Cilia, Strano). Pioneer of amphora winemaking in Italy—2000 debut of "Pithos" line (from Greek word for amphora). Visited Georgia to learn qvevri techniques. Cerasuolo di Vittoria (40% Frappato, 60% Nero d'Avola) is Sicily's only DOCG. Pithos Rosso is essentially Cerasuolo fermented and aged in amphora for 7 months. Also makes amphora whites from Grecanico and Insolia. Biodynamic farming, low sulfur, "sandwich" fermentation technique (whole clusters layered with destemmed berries).
Amphora Pioneer Cerasuolo DOCG Pithos Biodynamic
Gaetano & Nicoletta Gargano
Il Censo, Bivona, Sicily
Located in southwestern Sicily's interior at nearly 2,000 feet elevation. Farm on volcanic soil with extreme diurnal temperature variation. Revitalized an old family farm abandoned for decades. Guided by Umbrian legend Giampiero Bea (Paolo Bea). Focus on Catarratto (white) and Perricone (red), with Insolia and Nero d'Avola. "Praruar" is a skin-contact Catarratto—rich, amber-colored, dried fruit and iron-y minerality. One of the most exciting new producers, praised for "bracing acidity that keeps them focused."
High Elevation Volcanic Catarratto Rising Star

Campania & The South – Ancient Power

Antonio & Daniela De Gruttola
Cantina Giardino, Ariano Irpino, Campania
Started in 2003 in a garage (Professor Giardino's) to preserve abandoned old vines in Irpinia's mountains. Work with 50-100+ year old vines of Aglianico, Coda di Volpe, Fiano, Greco. Zero sulfur since 2006 (realized the small amounts added disappeared during aging). Ferment in terracotta and sandstone amphorae, large local wood casks (cherry, chestnut, acacia). "Gaia" Aglianico ages 10 years before release. Wines are "singular, vivid expressions of grape and place"—titanic, soulful, and deeply traditional. Artist-designed labels.
Zero Sulfur Old Vines Amphora Aglianico
Emidio Pepe
Torano Nuovo, Abruzzo
Master of Trebbiano and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Organic since 1964 (before "organic" existed). Hand-harvests, wild yeast fermentation, no temperature control. Legendary cellar with vertical vintages dating back decades. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is straw yellow, evolving to golden with age—notes of roasted nuts, yeast, spices, and intense minerality. Wines capable of aging 20+ years. Traditional, patient approach: "The wines teach us to wait."
Organic Pioneer Trebbiano Master Vertical Aging Since 1964

Central & Northern Italy – Tradition & Innovation

Elena Pantaleoni & Giulio Armani
La Stoppa, Rivergaro, Emilia-Romagna
58-hectare estate founded in 19th century, run by Elena since 1990s. Removed international varieties (Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Noir) to focus on local grapes: Barbera, Bonarda, Malvasia di Candia, Ortrugo. "Ageno" is a legendary skin-contact white named after the founder—Malvasia/Ortrugo blend with one month skin contact, aged in wood. "Trebbiolo" is the entry-level red. Organic certified 2008 but practicing since early 1990s. Long macerations (reds see one month on skins), extended aging. Heavy red clay soils. "No compromise" philosophy.
Ageno Barbera Long Maceration Emilia
Chiara Condello
Predappio, Emilia-Romagna
Young female winemaker (first vintage 2015) working exclusively with Sangiovese in the hills of Romagna. Proves that Sangiovese from Emilia-Romagna can rival Tuscany. Two wines: "normale" (15-20 days maceration, 1 year in neutral oak) and "riserva" (40 days maceration, 2 years aging). Organic farming, spontaneous fermentation in open-top wooden vats. "Textured, age-worthy, full of energy—an argument against dismissals of Emilian Sangiovese." Rising star of the new generation.
Sangiovese Woman Winemaker Young Star Predappio
Elisabetta Foradori
Mezzolombardo, Trentino
Champion of Teroldego and indigenous Trentino varieties. Converted to biodynamic farming in the early 2000s. Uses amphorae (clay vessels from Tuscany) for some wines. "Sgarzon" and "Morei" are single-vineyard Teroldego expressions from alluvial soils. Also works with Manzoni Bianco and Nosiola. Elegant, refined natural wines that show "finesse over power." Widely considered one of Italy's most important female winemakers. Focus on genetic diversity and massal selection.
Teroldego Biodynamic Woman Winemaker Amphora
"I know I'm in a place suitable for making wine, but not for all types of wine. I inherited the estate and quickly understood that the vines can and will outlive me... being a custodian to the land and preserving the environment rather than imposing myself on nature was a spontaneous choice." — Elena Pantaleoni, La Stoppa

The Grapes of Natural Italy

Indigenous treasures and ancient varieties

White Variety • The Orange Wine Grape

Ribolla Gialla

Indigenous to Friuli/Slovenia border. The grape that launched the orange wine revolution. Thick skins ideal for extended maceration. Produces wines of remarkable structure, tannins, and longevity. Notes of dried apricot, citrus peel, tea, and nuts when macerated.

  • Style: Structured, tannic, age-worthy
  • Natural Wine Role: Extended skin contact (months)
  • Top Producers: Gravner, Radikon, Prinčič
  • Regions: Friuli, Collio, Oslavia
  • Notable: Wines age 10-20 years
Red Variety • Sicily's Heart

Frappato

Ancient Sicilian variety from Vittoria. Light-colored, aromatic, elegant—almost Burgundian in its ability to express terroir. Blood orange, rose petal, Mediterranean herbs, red cherry. Low tannins, high acidity. Traditionally blended with Nero d'Avola in Cerasuolo di Vittoria.

  • Style: Light, aromatic, floral, elegant
  • Natural Wine Role: Single variety expressions
  • Top Producers: Occhipinti, COS, Il Censo
  • Regions: Vittoria (Sicily)
  • Notable: Elevated to fine wine status by Occhipinti
Red Variety • The King

Sangiovese

The backbone of Tuscany and central Italy. High acid, high tannin, transparent. Cherry, tomato leaf, earth, leather. Natural winemakers favor long macerations and neutral oak. In Emilia-Romagna (Chiara Condello), it shows a different, more structured side than Chianti.

  • Style: High acid, tannic, earthy, ageworthy
  • Natural Wine Role: Whole bunch, long maceration
  • Top Producers: Condello, various Tuscan nat producers
  • Regions: Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna
  • Notable: "Blood of Jove" (Sanguis Jovis)

More Indigenous Treasures

Rare varieties and local specialties

Nero d'Avola: "Black of Avola"—Sicily's most important red. Dark, powerful, traditionally overripe but natural winemakers (Occhipinti) show its elegant side. Plummy, spicy, saline.

Aglianico: "The Barolo of the South" from Campania. Tannic, acidic, powerful. Ages forever. Cantina Giardino makes titanic expressions from 100-year-old vines.

Trebbiano Abruzzese: Not to be confused with other Trebbianos. Emidio Pepe's specialty—mineral, nutty, capable of decades of aging. Grown in Abruzzo's hills near Adriatic.

Friulano: Formerly Tokai Friulano (name changed due to Hungarian Tokaj). Friuli's signature white—floral, almond, mineral. Radikon calls his "Jakot" (Tokai backwards).

Malvasia Istriana: Grown on the Italy-Slovenia border. Aromatic, complex. Gravner blends it with Ribolla. Can make oxidative, sherry-like natural wines.

Coda di Volpe: "Tail of the fox"—Campanian white with bent grape clusters. Used by Cantina Giardino for textural, amphora-aged whites.

Food Pairing & Italian Cuisine

Natural wine meets trattoria traditions

Pairings for Orange Wines

Friuli amber wines

  • Frico: Friulian cheese and potato pancake
  • Prosciutto San Daniele: Local cured ham
  • Baccalà: Salt cod preparations
  • Aged cheeses: Montasio, aged Pecorino
  • Local match: Jota (sauerkraut and bean soup)

Pairings for Sicilian Reds

Frappato and Nero d'Avola

  • Pasta alla Norma: Eggplant and tomato
  • Grilled fish: Mediterranean sea bass
  • Caponata: Sicilian sweet and sour eggplant
  • Arancini: Fried rice balls
  • Local match: Tuna from Favignana

Italian Natural Wine Traditions

Vino sfuso, trattoria culture, and the new wave

Italy's natural wine movement is deeply rooted in vino sfuso (bulk wine) culture—wine as everyday sustenance rather than luxury commodity. The trattoria tradition of simple, honest food pairs perfectly with natural wine's unpretentious, lively character. In Rome (now the world's #3 city for natural wine with 130 venues), Paris-style natural wine bars meet Italian osteria tradition. The "vino da uve macerate" (skin-contact) category recently formalized in Friuli represents official recognition of a 20-year natural wine tradition. Amphora aging—revived by COS and Gravner—connects to ancient Roman vinification in clay. From Piedmont's agroturismi to Sicily's rural tourism, visiting natural wineries means participating in Italy's agricultural heritage. The movement emphasizes field blends (planting multiple varieties together), polyculture (wine with olives, fruit, grains), and handwork—preserving the human scale of Italian farming.

Visiting Natural Italy

From Friuli's cellars to Sicily's vineyards

🟠 Friuli/Oslavia

Base in Cormòns or Gorizia. Visit Gravner (book ahead—legendary amphora cellar). Radikon (taste the 1L bottles). Dario Prinčič and Damijan Podversic for the new wave. Eat at Trattoria della Corte or L'Argine a Venco. The Oslavia village itself is the epicenter—walkable between producers.

🌋 Sicily

Fly to Catania. Mount Etna for volcanic wines (book with Terra Costantino or Vino di Anna). Drive south to Vittoria for Arianna Occhipinti (appointment essential—she's a superstar). Visit COS nearby for amphora wines. Stay at Chaza (Occhipinti's new hospitality project). Combine with Noto and Modica for Baroque architecture.

🏔️ Campania & South

Base in Naples (natural wine bars: Vino Veritas, ENosteria). Drive to Irpinia for Cantina Giardino (mountous terrain, old vines). Visit Emidio Pepe in Abruzzo (Torano Nuovo—legendary cellar). Combine with Matera (Basilicata) or Amalfi Coast. Heavy clay soils and dramatic mountain landscapes.

14-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Days 1-3 - Rome: Arrive. Natural wine bars: Vino Natural, Il Sorpasso, Le Serre. Eat at Flavio al Velavevodetto (Testaccio). Overnight Rome.

Days 4-6 - Tuscany: Drive to Predappio (3 hours). Visit Chiara Condello (Sangiovese). La Stoppa in Emilia (2 hours north)—taste "Ageno" orange wine. Overnight Bologna or Piacenza.

Days 7-9 - Friuli: Drive to Gorizia (3 hours). Gravner (book ahead). Radikon (tasting). Prinčič or Podversic. Eat at Trattoria della Corte. Overnight Oslavia or Cormòns.

Days 10-12 - Sicily: Fly to Catania. Drive to Vittoria. Arianna Occhipinti (tour and tasting). COS (amphora cellar tour). Il Censo (if accessible). Stay at Chaza. Visit Noto and beaches.

Days 13-14 - Campania: Fly to Naples. Cantina Giardino (Irpinia—2 hours drive). Emidio Pepe (Abruzzo). Return to Naples for departure.

Italy Essentials

  • 132,441 hectares organic (21%)
  • 1,623 natural wine venues
  • 3,428% growth 2016-2024
  • World's largest organic wine country
  • 739 natural wine producers

Featured Producers

  • Gravner (Friuli)
  • Radikon (Friuli)
  • Occhipinti (Sicily)
  • COS (Sicily)
  • Cantina Giardino (Campania)

Key Varieties

  • Ribolla Gialla (orange)
  • Frappato (light red)
  • Sangiovese (central)
  • Aglianico (south)
  • Trebbiano (white)

Further Reading

  • Simon J. Woolf (Amber Revolution)
  • Alice Feiring (Natural Wine)
  • La Collina (Friuli consortium)
  • Vino di Vino (Sicily)
Sources: WineNews, ISMEA, Punch Drink, Cellar Tours, K&L Wine Merchants