The Kingdom of Ouillé
Jura
From the topped-up whites of Rotalier to the oxidative Vin Jaune of Château-Chalon, discover France's most cult natural wine region—where Savagnin, Poulsard, and Trousseau achieve their greatest expression through biodynamic farming and zero-zero winemaking
The Wild East
France's most cult natural wine region
The Jura is France's most enigmatic wine region—a small, forested corner between Burgundy and Switzerland where time seems to move differently. Here, in a landscape of limestone cliffs and dense woodland, winemakers produce some of the world's most distinctive wines: Vin Jaune (yellow wine) aged for six years under a veil of yeast; Savagnin with its electric acidity and nutty complexity; Poulsard—the pale red grape that produces wines of haunting delicacy; and Trousseau, the variety that only thrives on the most specific soils.
This guide focuses on the new generation of Jura natural winemakers—producers who have learned from the legends (Overnoy, Ganevat, Labet) and are carving their own paths. From La Ferme Sans Nom's mysterious négoçiant cuvées to Domaine de la Sœur Cadette's elegant Burgundian-inspired whites, from Domaine du Pélican's biodynamic precision to Léonard Dietrich's volcanic terroir expressions, these are winemakers who combine respect for tradition with radical innovation.
What unites them is a commitment to biodynamic or organic farming, native yeast fermentation, and minimal or zero sulfur. They work with the Jura's unique grape varieties—some of which exist almost nowhere else on earth—and express the region's complex mosaic of marl, limestone, and clay soils. The result is wines that are alive, vibrant, and deeply expressive of one of France's most distinctive terroirs.
Key Facts
- Location: Eastern France, between Burgundy and Switzerland
- Size: ~2,000 hectares (tiny but influential)
- Main Grapes: Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau, Chardonnay
- Climate: Continental, cold winters, warm summers
- Soils: Marl, limestone, clay (Jurassic)
- Key Styles: Vin Jaune, ouillé, sous voile
- Notable: Only region for true Vin Jaune
From Monks to Natural Wine Icons
800 years of tradition, 40 years of revolution
Monastic Beginnings
Carthusian monks establish vineyards in Château-Chalon, developing the Vin Jaune tradition. The unique climate and geology of the Jura create conditions found nowhere else in France.
AOC Recognition
Arbois becomes one of France's first AOCs, recognizing the distinctiveness of Jura wines. The region's reputation for oxidative wines and unique grape varieties is established.
Overnoy's Revolution
Pierre Overnoy begins making wines without added sulfites, becoming the "pope of natural wine." His approach—native yeasts, no temperature control, long aging—influences a generation.
Ganevat Returns
Jean-François Ganevat returns to the Jura after working with Jean-Marc Morey in Burgundy. He becomes the region's most celebrated winemaker, producing 40+ cuvées annually from biodynamic vineyards.
The Labet Legacy
Alain and Julien Labet pioneer the "ouillé" (topped-up) style for whites, creating wines of Burgundian precision that inspire a new generation. Their parcel-by-parcel approach becomes the template for terroir expression.
New Generation Arrives
Young winemakers like Nicolas Jacob, Valentin Morel (Les Pieds sur Terre), and Pascal Théreau (La Patelle) establish estates, bringing fresh energy and zero-zero experimentation to the region. The Jura becomes the world's most sought-after natural wine region.
Marl, Limestone & the Jurassic Terroir
The unique geology that shapes Jura wines
⛰️ Marl (Marne)
The signature soil of the Jura—calcareous clay that provides both water retention and drainage. Different colored marls (grey, blue, red) indicate varying mineral content and create distinct wine styles. Found throughout Arbois and L'Étoile.
🗻 Limestone Scree (Éboulis)
Broken limestone from the cliffs above Château-Chalon and other sites. Provides excellent drainage and mineral content. The wines from these sites show pronounced salinity and aging potential.
🌋 Triassic Marl
Ancient soils from the Triassic period, found in sites like Les Chazaux (Nicolas Jacob) and Aux Perrières. These multicolored marls give wines intense minerality and distinctive savory notes.
🏔️ The Revermont
The first range of hills east of the Bresse plain, where most Jura vineyards are planted. The combination of altitude (200-400m), aspect, and soil creates the perfect conditions for the region's late-ripening varieties.
💨 Continental Climate
Cold winters, warm summers, and high diurnal temperature variation. This climate, combined with the forests that surround the vineyards, creates conditions perfect for organic farming and slow, even ripening.
🌿 The Two Styles
Ouillé (topped-up): Wines aged without oxidation, fresh and mineral. Sous voile (under veil): Wines aged with a layer of yeast (flor), creating nutty, oxidative characters. Vin Jaune is the ultimate expression of sous voile.
Key Natural Wine Terroirs
| Appellation | Location | Soil | Natural Wine Character |
|---|---|---|---|
| Arbois | Central Jura | Marl, limestone | Largest AOC; Ganevat, Labet, Tissot; diverse styles |
| Côtes du Jura | Region-wide | Marl, clay | Experimental zone; many natural producers |
| Château-Chalon | North of Lons-le-Saunier | Limestone scree | Only Savagnin; Vin Jaune; Pignier, Macle |
| L'Étoile | South of Arbois | Marl, limestone | Chardonnay specialist; star-shaped hills |
| Macvin | Region-wide | Various | Fortified wine; natural producers make rare versions |
| Marne Bleue | South of Arbois | Blue marl | Les Marnes Blanches; distinctive minerality |
The Featured Producers
The new generation defining Jura natural wine
The Icons
The New Generation
The Innovators
The Négoçiants & Collaboratives
The Terroir Specialists
The Grapes of Natural Jura
Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau & the art of oxidation
Savagnin (Savagnin Blanc)
The signature grape of the Jura, found almost nowhere else. High acidity, thick skins, and the ability to age for decades under oxidative conditions. Makes both fresh ouillé wines and the legendary Vin Jaune.
- Plantings: ~15% of Jura vineyard
- Style: Walnut, curry, citrus, high acid
- Natural Wine Role: Ouillé for freshness, sous voile for complexity
- Top Producers: Ganevat, Labet, Overnoy/Houillon
- Notable: Vin Jaune requires 6+ years aging
Poulsard (Ploussard)
The pale red grape that produces wines of extraordinary delicacy. Thin skins, low tannin, and haunting aromatics of strawberry, rose, and earth. Grown almost exclusively in the Jura.
- Plantings: ~20% of Jura vineyard
- Style: Pale, floral, strawberry, tea
- Natural Wine Role: Light, chillable reds; glou-glou
- Top Producers: Overnoy/Houillon, Tissot, Clairet
- Notable: Pupillin is the "capital of Poulsard"
Trousseau
The most structured red grape of the Jura, but only thrives on specific soils (gravelly marls). Produces wines of spice, red fruit, and firm tannin when grown in the right sites.
- Plantings: ~5% of Jura vineyard
- Style: Spicy, red fruit, firm tannins
- Natural Wine Role: Age-worthy reds; terroir expression
- Top Producers: Ganevat, Tissot, Labet
- Notable: Only thrives on specific gravelly marls
The Supporting Cast & Specialties
Chardonnay: Often called "Melon d'Arbois" locally. Makes fresh, mineral whites in the ouillé style. Labet and Ganevat produce Burgundian-level examples.
Vin Jaune: Not a grape, but a style—Savagnin aged for 6+ years sous voile (under a yeast film) in 228L barrels. The ultimate expression of oxidative winemaking; nutty, complex, and incredibly long-lived.
Vin de Paille: Straw wine made from dried grapes (Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard). Sweet, concentrated, and rare.
Macvin: Fortified wine made by adding grape spirit to unfermented must. Sweet, rich, and traditionally served as an aperitif.
Food Pairing & Gastronomy
Natural Jura meets the rustic cuisine of the Franche-Comté
Pairings for Vin Jaune & Sous Voile
- Comté cheese: The classic pairing—24+ months aged
- Chicken with morels: Poulet de Bresse aux morilles
- Fish in sauce: Pike-perch with cream
- Curry dishes: The wine's curry notes complement
- Walnuts: Local AOC walnuts from Grenoble
- Local match: Cancoillotte (runny cheese)
Pairings for Poulsard & Light Reds
- Charcuterie: Jambon de pays, saucisson
- Grilled fish: Trout, simply prepared
- Mushrooms: Morels, chanterelles
- Soft cheeses: Mont d'Or, Vacherin
- Poultry: Roast chicken with herbs
- Local match: Saucisse de Morteau (smoked sausage)
Jura Gastronomy
The Jura shares the Franche-Comté culinary tradition with neighboring Burgundy and Switzerland. Comté cheese is the region's glory—aged for 12-36 months in local caves, it's the perfect partner for Vin Jaune. Poulet de Bresse (the only AOC chicken in France) is raised just west of the Jura and served with cream and morel mushrooms. Saucisse de Morteau is a smoked sausage that demands Poulsard. The region's walnuts (AOC Grenoble) are essential to local cuisine. And Cancoillotte—a runny, garlicky cheese—is the ultimate comfort food. Natural Jura wines, with their purity and lack of heavy oak, pair beautifully with this rustic, honest cuisine.
Visiting Natural Jura
From the vineyards of Rotalier to the cliffs of Château-Chalon
🍇 Arbois & Rotalier
The heart of natural Jura. Visit Jean-François Ganevat (appointment essential) to taste 40+ cuvées. Julien Labet is nearby for ouillé whites. Domaine Tissot offers biodynamic tours. Stay in Arbois, the region's wine capital, with restaurants like Le Bistrot des Claquets.
⛰️ Pupillin & Montigny
Visit Pierre Overnoy & Emmanuel Houillon (almost impossible, but worth trying) in the "capital of Poulsard." Nicolas Jacob and Domaine de la Tournelle are in Montigny-les-Arsures. The village of Pupillin is tiny but legendary among natural wine enthusiasts.
🏔️ Château-Chalon & L'Étoile
Visit Domaine Berthet-Bondet for Vin Jaune in the village of Château-Chalon, perched on limestone cliffs. Domaine des Marnes Blanches is nearby in Cesancey. The views from Château-Chalon are spectacular, and the village is one of France's most beautiful.
5-Day Natural Wine Itinerary
Day 1 - Arbois: Arrive in Arbois, explore the town (Pasteur's house, wine museum). Dinner at Le Bistrot des Claquets with local wines. Overnight in Arbois.
Day 2 - Rotalier: Morning at Jean-François Ganevat (book months ahead). Lunch in Rotalier. Afternoon at Julien Labet for ouillé whites. Overnight in Arbois.
Day 3 - Pupillin & Montigny: Drive to Pupillin (15 minutes). Attempt to visit Overnoy/Houillon (call ahead). Continue to Montigny-les-Arsures for Nicolas Jacob and Domaine de la Tournelle. Overnight in Poligny or Arbois.
Day 4 - Château-Chalon: Drive to Château-Chalon (30 minutes). Visit Domaine Berthet-Bondet for Vin Jaune. Explore the village and cliffs. Lunch with Comté and Vin Jaune. Afternoon at Domaine des Marnes Blanches. Overnight in Lons-le-Saunier.
Day 5 - The South: Visit Valentin Morel (Les Pieds sur Terre) in Saint-Hymetière. Continue to La Patelle in Marnoz. Return to Geneva or Lyon for departure.