Ferns & Ferns
La Felce is a family-run organic farm and winery in Ortonovo, in the province of La Spezia, on the far eastern edge of Liguria bordering Tuscany. The name "La Felce" — "the fern" — refers to the abundant ferns that thrive in the acidic, sandy soils of the area, and also evokes one of the first land plants on Earth, a symbol of resilience and deep roots. The estate was founded in the post-war era by Renato Marcesini as a mixed polyculture farm — vines, fruit, vegetables, olives, saffron, and honey — and passed in 1998 to his grandson Andrea, an agricultural sciences student who renamed it La Felce and shifted the focus toward wine in bottle while maintaining the family's commitment to mixed agriculture. Today, Andrea is joined by his son Francesco, age 22, who is fully involved in the farm and poised to carry the legacy forward. The estate farms about 6.5 hectares of vines spread across 11 parcels in the Colli di Luni area, alongside olive trees, vegetable gardens, and fields of saffron. Certified organic since the 2022 vintage, the vineyards are planted on sandy, sedimentary soils with an abundance of sandstone and some grey sand, in a landscape where cooling sea winds funnel through a natural corridor from the Mediterranean, ventilating the vines and infusing the wines with salinity and freshness. The philosophy is one of humility, tradition, and custodianship: wine is food, heritage, something to be shared — not artifice or fashion. Andrea has also started a social agriculture project at the farm, helping individuals experiencing distress through recovery, therapy, and job placement programs. The result is a portfolio of wines — FelceBianco, FelceRosso, Monte dei Frati, In Origine 400, Reconteso, Non Sempre — that are honest, elegant, territorial, and deeply connected to the sandy foothills and sea air of eastern Liguria.
Three Generations & the Fern
The story of La Felce is the story of a corner of Liguria that feels more like Tuscany draped in sea air — a landscape of steep, sandy foothills, scrubby Mediterranean herbs, and a natural corridor that funnels cooling breezes from the Mediterranean Sea through the vines. It begins in the post-war era, when Renato Marcesini established a family-run farm dedicated to a variety of crops, animals, and vines. This was not a winery in the modern sense; it was a polyculture farm, a way of life rooted in the land, where vines grew alongside fruit trees, vegetable gardens, olive orchards, and fields of saffron. The farm was located in Ortonovo, in the province of La Spezia, on the far eastern edge of Liguria, right on the border with Tuscany — a pocket of land close to the sea like the Cinque Terre, though set a few kilometers back within a natural corridor that captures and intensifies the maritime winds.
In 1998, the reins passed to Renato's grandson, Andrea Marcesini, who had been working as a carpenter but returned to the land upon his grandfather's retirement. Andrea, a student of agricultural sciences, continued the work of his grandfather's farm and renamed it La Felce — "the fern." The name was not chosen for marketing purposes but as an honest description of the land: ferns thrive in the acidic soils of the area, and they were one of the first land plants on Earth, along with moss and lichens. To add a bit of poetry, La Felce is one of the oldest farms in this corner of Liguria. Andrea was the first to shift the focus to production of wine in bottle, transforming the farm's grapes from a local commodity into wines that could travel and tell the story of this unique terroir. Yet he never abandoned the mixed agricultural roots — today, La Felce remains a commercial producer of fruits, vegetables, olives, saffron, and honey, alongside its wines.
The turning point in the estate's evolution came with Andrea's deepening commitment to organic farming and natural winemaking. The Marcesinis have always farmed organically — not for commercial reasons, but for the desire to leave the land healthier for the next generation. This philosophy was formalized with organic certification from the 2022 vintage, recognizing practices that had long been in place. In the cellar, Andrea abandoned chemistry both in the vineyard and in the cellar, respecting himself, nature, and those who drink his wine. The aim: to make wine return to being a food for everyone and to be the guardian of history and territory. Fermentations are spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, sulfur dioxide is added in very small quantities only for bottling, and the wines are guided gently to preserve their natural expression. Today, Andrea is assisted in the company by his son Francesco, age 22, who is involved 100% and is poised to take the reins when the moment is right — underscoring the ongoing legacy and commitment to the land and vineyard practices.
Beyond wine, Andrea has started a social agriculture project at La Felce, where he helps individuals experiencing distress work through recovery, therapy, and job placement programs at the farm. This initiative reflects a core belief: wine is food, and it can nurture the future as well as the everyday. It takes love to work in this area — the vineyards are steep and far between, and the quantity of grapes produced is always very small. But the memory of the wines on the table of his childhood motivates Andrea, and the conviction that honest, elegant, territorial wine can emerge from patient, humble work drives every decision. The estate is recognized by The Grape Reset, Raisin, and a growing network of natural wine enthusiasts who appreciate its commitment to authenticity, biodiversity, and low-intervention winemaking. The wines — FelceBianco, FelceRosso, Monte dei Frati, In Origine 400, Reconteso, Non Sempre — are not merely beverages; they are stories of a family that has tended the same sandy soils for three generations, of a fern that symbolizes resilience and deep roots, and of a conviction that wine should be food, heritage, and community.
"The aim: to make wine return to being a food for everyone and to be the guardian of history and territory."
— Andrea Marcesini, La Felce
Colli di Luni & the Sea Corridor
La Felce's vineyards are located in Ortonovo, in the province of La Spezia, Liguria — on the far eastern edge of the region, bordering Tuscany, within the Colli di Luni appellation. This is a landscape of extraordinary viticultural character: picture the hills of Tuscany draped with sea air and dotted with scrubby Mediterranean herbs. The estate farms about 6.5 hectares of vines, spread over 11 parcels within a radius of 10 kilometers, alongside olive trees, vegetable gardens, and fields of saffron. The vineyards are situated at different elevations and exposures, with soil types ranging from sandy to sandy-clay with marine influence — sedimentary soils with an abundance of sandstone, and some vineyard sites offering grey sand. These are acidic, well-draining soils that stress the vines just enough to produce grapes of remarkable concentration and character, while the proximity to the sea — though set a few kilometers back — ensures that maritime breezes reach the vineyards through a natural corridor, providing ventilation, reducing disease pressure, and infusing the wines with a distinctive saline freshness.
The terroir is defined by its sandy, sedimentary soils and its Mediterranean climate moderated by the sea. The soils are mainly sedimentary with an abundance of sandstone, with some grey sand in certain parcels — well-draining, mineral-rich, and requiring careful management of water and nutrients. The natural corridor that funnels sea winds from the Mediterranean creates a microclimate of remarkable consistency: warm summers tempered by cooling breezes, mild winters, and a growing season long enough for the late-ripening varieties to achieve full phenolic maturity. The result is a terroir that produces wines of freshness, saline notes, mineral tones, and clarity — wines that speak of the sea as much as the soil. The steep, scattered nature of the vineyards makes mechanization impossible; everything is done by hand, with careful attention to each parcel's unique character.
Farming at La Felce is certified organic from the 2022 vintage, with a philosophy that emphasizes biodiversity, soil health, and minimal chemical input. No synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers are used. The Marcesinis have always farmed this way — not for commercial reasons, but for the desire to leave the land healthier for the next generation. Ground cover is maintained between the rows, encouraging beneficial insects and preventing erosion. Treatments are minimal, using only copper and sulfur in modest quantities when strictly necessary. The vineyards include both older plantings — some over 50 years old, planted by Renato — and more recent ones, creating a vineyard that spans three generations of viticultural history. The harvest is entirely manual, with careful hand-selection of grapes in the vineyard. Andrea and Francesco personally oversee every aspect of the viticultural cycle, from pruning to harvest to cellar work, ensuring that only the healthiest, most expressive fruit enters the winery.
The grape varieties are diverse, reflecting the family's commitment to preserving heritage and expressing terroir. The whites are led by Vermentino — the main planting, and arguably the grape that reaches its greatest expressions in the Colli di Luni — alongside Malvasia, Trebbiano, Albarola, and others. The reds include Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Massaretta, Alicante Bouschet, Barbera, and Merlot. Among these, Massaretta is particularly notable — a very rare grape with only about 30 hectares in all of Italy, famously finicky to grow but capable of producing lighter-bodied, deeply peppery wines with flashes of raspberry and basil. The diversity of varieties, combined with the scattered, multi-parcel nature of the vineyards, allows Andrea to craft wines of remarkable complexity and territorial specificity from a relatively small estate. All grapes are hand-harvested with careful selection, and the family's intimate knowledge of each parcel guides every decision in the vineyard and the cellar.
Ortonovo, province of La Spezia, Liguria. Far eastern Liguria bordering Tuscany. Colli di Luni appellation (wines labeled Liguria di Levante). 11 parcels within 10km radius. Sandy, sedimentary foothills leading up to mountains of Ortonovo and Casano. Natural corridor funnels cooling sea winds from Mediterranean. Close to sea like Cinque Terre but set a few kilometers back. Mediterranean climate with maritime influence. Steep, scattered vineyards — all hand-worked. Mixed agriculture: vines, olives, fruit, vegetables, saffron, honey.
Mainly sedimentary soils with abundance of sandstone. Some vineyard sites with grey sand. Sandy to sandy-clay with marine influence. Acidic, well-draining soils. Mineral-rich, requiring careful water and nutrient management. Distinctive Ligurian character: salinity, freshness, clarity, mineral depth. Soils that stress vines just enough for concentration. Ferns thrive in the acidity — giving the estate its name. Deep connection between soil, plant, and wine.
Certified organic from 2022 vintage. No synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers. Ground cover maintained for biodiversity, beneficial insects, erosion prevention. Minimal treatments: copper and sulfur in modest quantities only when necessary. Mix of old vines (50+ years, planted by Renato) and recent plantings. Manual harvest with careful hand-selection. Andrea and Francesco personally oversee every aspect. Social agriculture project for individuals in recovery. Mixed farm: vines, olives, fruit, vegetables, saffron, honey.
Whites — Vermentino (main planting, arguably greatest expression in Colli di Luni), Malvasia, Trebbiano, Albarola. Reds — Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Massaretta (rare, ~30 hectares in Italy, peppery, raspberry and basil), Alicante Bouschet, Barbera, Merlot. Some vines over 50 years old. All hand-harvested with careful selection. Varieties chosen for terroir expression and heritage preservation. Vermentino leads the whites; Massaretta is the rare treasure among reds.
Indigenous Yeasts & Gentle Guidance
At La Felce, the cellar philosophy is one of gentle guidance and natural expression: grapes are hand-selected in the vineyard, fermentations are spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, and practices aim to preserve the natural expression of the vineyards. Andrea's approach eschews nearly all technology in the cellar so as not to distort the personality of the terroir. Temperature-controlled stainless steel and concrete vats are placed side by side with old-school vertical presses — a coexistence of technique and tradition in perfect symbiosis. Sulfur dioxide is added in very small quantities only for bottling, and the wines are allowed to find their own voice, with minimal intervention. The result is a portfolio of wines that are honest, elegant, territorial — wines that carry the imprint of the sandy soils, the sea breezes, and the family's commitment to authenticity.
The techniques are minimal, respectful, and deeply informed by the estate's organic philosophy. Fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts — no commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and concrete preserves freshness and primary fruit while allowing the natural character of the grapes to shine. For the entry-level wines, racking and paper filters are used; for all other wines, natural stabilization is employed. The choice of vessels — stainless steel for freshness, concrete for texture and micro-oxygenation — is made according to the wine, the vintage, and Andrea's intuition. Skin maceration is used even for some whites, adding texture and depth while preserving clarity and elegance. Everything is in service of the wine's natural expression, not the imposition of a house style.
"FelceBianco" — The Everyday White: The FelceBianco is La Felce's foundational white — an everyday wine at a price that still feels everyday, made from the classic Ligurian trio of Vermentino, Trebbiano, and Malvasia. It is the real stuff: Ligurian originals setting the stage for a chewy palate drenched in lemon, tarragon, and salt. The grapes undergo 48 hours of skin contact for just a little texture, then ferment spontaneously in temperature-controlled stainless steel. In the glass, it is pale straw with greenish reflections. The nose offers citrus, white flowers, green apple, tarragon, and a distinct saline, mineral note. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with crisp acidity, a chewy, textured mouthfeel from the brief skin contact, and a long, refreshing, savory finish. It is a wine of pleasure and honesty — perfect for aperitivo, seafood, light meals, and sunny afternoons. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. Drink within 1–2 years for maximum freshness. ~€18–€24 / ~$20–$26.
"Monte dei Frati" — The Elevated Vermentino: The Monte dei Frati is La Felce's elevated white — a wine from a 2.5 hectare parcel of higher elevation Vermentino vines on sandstone bedrock. The name evokes the mountain of the friars, a place of elevation and contemplation. The wine is made with a bit of maceration, giving it breadth as well as a very focused finish. In the glass, it is pale marigold with luminous intensity. The nose offers steeped peach blossom, white flowers, Mediterranean herbs, and a distinct mineral, saline note. The palate is medium-bodied, with vibrant acidity, a textured mouthfeel from the maceration, and a long, savory, mineral finish. It is a wine of elegance and depth — succulent, focused, and deeply satisfying. Enjoy cold outside in the garden with a great book and dappled sunlight and be transported to the lilting breezes and deep history of Liguria. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. Drink within 2–3 years. ~€24–€30 / ~$26–$32.
"In Origine 400" — The Memory White: The In Origine 400 is La Felce's most evocative white — the wine that most reflects Andrea's memory of the old wines of his home, made by his grandfather. It is made with fruit from hundred-year-old Vermentino and Trebbiano vines and fermented on the skins in concrete tanks for 20 days. The result is a pale marigold-colored wine, with aromas of thyme and crispy focaccia — it's deeply savory and wants to be drunk alongside grilled prawns. In the glass, it is amber-gold with hazy, luminous intensity. The nose offers thyme, focaccia, dried apricot, wild honey, and a distinct mineral, smoky note. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with gripping texture, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, complex finish. It is a wine of memory and place — a bridge between generations, between the past and the present. Serve at 10–12°C. ~€30–€38 / ~$32–$40.
"FelceRosso" — The Everyday Red: The FelceRosso is La Felce's foundational red — a totally versatile red made from 10 grapes including Sangiovese, Massaretta, Canaiolo, Barbera, Cabernet, and Merlot. It is fermented on the skins for 5 days in concrete, then aged in stainless steel. Kind of the ideal Italian red, like the idea of Chianti, only way cheaper than most Chianti these days. In the glass, it is ruby with garnet reflections. The nose offers red cherry, wild herbs, black pepper, and a distinct earthy, mineral note. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with elegant tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, slightly spicy finish. It is a wine of versatility and pleasure — perfect for everyday drinking, pasta, pizza, and casual meals. Serve at 16–18°C. Drink within 2–4 years. ~€18–€24 / ~$20–$26.
"Reconteso" — The Rare Massaretta: The Reconteso is La Felce's most distinctive red — a wine from a single vineyard based on the very rare grape Massaretta, with just a touch of Alicante Bouschet. There are only about 30 hectares of Massaretta in Italy — it is famously finicky to grow but in Andrea's hands it produces a lighter-bodied, deeply peppery wine with flashes of raspberry and basil. The wine is fermented in concrete and aged in stainless steel so there is zero influence from oak. In the glass, it is ruby with purple reflections. The nose offers raspberry, basil, black pepper, and a distinct mineral, earthy note. The palate is light-bodied, with fine tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, peppery finish. It is a wine of rarity and character — a fine thing to drink with black olive anything. Serve at 16–18°C. Drink within 3–5 years. ~€26–€32 / ~$28–$34.
"Non Sempre" — The Seasonal Selection: The Non Sempre is La Felce's seasonal selection — a wine whose name means "Not Always," reflecting its nature as a unique, vintage-dependent expression. It represents different vineyard parcels or unique seasonal selections, capturing a specific moment in time. The composition varies by vintage, but it always reflects Andrea's maniacal precision in choosing harvest dates and his gentle guidance in the cellar. In the glass, it varies by vintage but always shows clarity, freshness, and territorial character. The nose offers a complex bouquet of red and dark fruits, wild herbs, and mineral notes. The palate is medium-bodied, with elegant tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, complex finish. It is a wine of curiosity and discovery — each vintage a new chapter in the La Felce story. Serve at 16–18°C. Ageing potential varies by vintage. ~€20–€28 / ~$22–$30.
Vessels & Ageing: La Felce works with a variety of vessels — temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for freshness and primary fruit, concrete tanks for texture and micro-oxygenation, and old-school vertical presses for gentle extraction — each chosen according to the wine, the vintage, and Andrea's intuition. There is no single formula; the choice of vessel is always made in service of the wine's natural expression. The stainless steel preserves freshness, primary fruit, and vibrant acidity — essential for the younger whites and the entry-level reds. The concrete tanks provide micro-oxygenation and texture, perfect for the In Origine 400 and some of the more structured reds. Skin maceration is used for some whites, adding texture and depth. All wines are fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, with minimal sulfites added only at bottling, and the entry-level wines receive gentle racking and paper filtration while the rest are naturally stabilized. The result is a portfolio of wines that are unmistakably La Felce — honest, elegant, territorial, deeply connected to the sandy soils of Ortonovo, and to the family's conviction that wine should be food, heritage, and community.
"In Origine 400" — "Hundred-Year-Old Vermentino & Trebbiano Vines — Hand-Harvested from Organic Vineyards in Ortonovo, 20 Days Skin Maceration in Concrete, Indigenous Yeasts, Minimal Sulfites Only at Bottling — The White That Carries Andrea's Memory of His Grandfather's Wines"
The In Origine 400 is La Felce's most evocative, most personal, and most distinctive wine — the skin-macerated white that encapsulates everything Andrea Marcesini believes about organic viticulture, indigenous yeast fermentation, and the transformative power of memory, concrete, and patience. It is not merely a white wine; it is a testament to the beauty of the Colli di Luni terroir when cultivated with organic care, the courage of a family who chose to preserve ancient vines and honor their grandfather's legacy, and the enduring magic of wines that honor the land without excessive intervention. The name evokes the origin — the beginning — and the 400 meters of elevation where the old vines stand.
The viticulture is organic — certified from the 2022 vintage. No synthetic pesticides, no herbicides, no chemical fertilizers. The family focuses on maintaining healthy vines on the sandy, sedimentary soils of Ortonovo — creating an environment where hundred-year-old Vermentino and Trebbiano vines can express their full potential of aromatic complexity, acidity, and mineral depth. The harvest is entirely manual, with careful hand-selection of only the healthiest, most expressive bunches from these ancient vines. The Vermentino and Trebbiano are varieties that have thrived in this corner of Liguria for generations — Vermentino with its saline freshness and Mediterranean herbs, Trebbiano with its crisp acidity and neutral canvas.
In the cellar, the grapes are fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts — no commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. The wine is then macerated on the skins for 20 days in concrete tanks — vessels that provide micro-oxygenation and texture without imposing flavors like oak. The concrete allows the wine to breathe, to evolve, to find its own voice. Natural stabilization — no filtration for this wine. Minimal sulfites added only at bottling. The result is a wine that is alive, authentic, deeply connected to the place from which it comes, and to the family's philosophical conviction that wine should be food, heritage, and community.
In the glass, it is pale marigold with hazy, luminous intensity — alive, vibrant, authentic. The nose is intense and complex: thyme, crispy focaccia, dried apricot, wild honey, and a distinct mineral, smoky note that speaks of the concrete and the sandy soils of Ortonovo. There are notes of Mediterranean herbs, a hint of sea salt, and a subtle earthiness that adds depth and intrigue. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with gripping texture, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, complex finish. It is a wine of great personality — a wine that wants to be drunk alongside grilled prawns, overlooking the vineyards of Ortonovo with the sea breeze in your hair. It is a wine that proves that when ancient vines are grown with organic care on sandy soils, harvested with patience, and made with honest minimal intervention in concrete, the result is a white of both immediacy and profound depth, of both pleasure and memory.
The In Origine 400 is a wine of the table and the mind — it pairs beautifully with grilled seafood, risotto, white meats, aged cheeses, or simply with good bread and olive oil overlooking the vineyards of Ortonovo. Serve at 10–12°C. It will reward careful cellaring, developing more honey, dried fruit, and mineral complexity. Every bottle is a rare treasure — a testament to the power of memory and concrete, the beauty of organic winemaking, and the enduring magic of wines that honor the land, the family, and the patient, honest work of three generations. ~€30–€38 / ~$32–$40.
The La Felce Range
Andrea Marcesini, together with his son Francesco, produces an organic, low-intervention portfolio from approximately 6.5 hectares of vineyards spread across 11 parcels in the Colli di Luni area of Ortonovo, Liguria. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested with careful selection, and made with spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation. No commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. Minimal sulfites added only at bottling. Entry-level wines receive gentle racking and paper filtration; all other wines are naturally stabilized. The portfolio includes whites, reds, and skin-macerated wines — an honest, elegant, territorial collection that reflects the family's dual commitment to preserving heritage and expressing terroir. Annual production is approximately 55,000–60,000 bottles depending on the vintage. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.
La Felce produces an organic, low-intervention portfolio from approximately 6.5 hectares of vineyards spread across 11 parcels in the Colli di Luni area of Ortonovo, Liguria. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested with careful selection, and made with spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation. No commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. Minimal sulfites added only at bottling. Entry-level wines receive gentle racking and paper filtration; all other wines are naturally stabilized. The portfolio includes FelceBianco (white), Monte dei Frati (elevated Vermentino), In Origine 400 (skin-macerated ancient vines), FelceRosso (red blend), Reconteso (rare Massaretta), and Non Sempre (seasonal selection). The estate was founded in the post-war era by Renato Marcesini as a mixed polyculture farm. In 1998, Andrea Marcesini renamed it La Felce and shifted focus to wine in bottle. Today, Andrea is joined by his son Francesco, age 22. Certified organic from 2022 vintage. Annual production is approximately 55,000–60,000 bottles depending on the vintage. Availability is through the estate, The Grape Reset, Raisin, select natural wine retailers, and importers including Bowler Wine and Leon & Son. The estate also produces bag-in-box wines through Sfusobuono for sustainable, everyday drinking. Mixed farm: vines, olives, fruit, vegetables, saffron, honey. Social agriculture project for individuals in recovery. Visits welcome — contact in advance.
Contact Details:
Owner: Andrea Marcesini
Phone: +39 331 313 8340
Email: lafelce.marcesini@libero.it
Address:
Azienda Agricola La Felce, Via Bozzi, 52, 19034 Ortonovo (SP), Italy.