A Dream Made Wine
La Rocchetta di Mondondone is a small family-run estate of 4 hectares in Codevilla, on the western hills of the Oltrepò Pavese — born in 2012 from the recovery of old vineyards rescued from abandonment. Founded and led by Stefano Banfi, the estate is a living dream: a vision of living far from the noise and smog of the city, surrounded by the green of hillside fields, waking with morning dew and falling asleep under starlight. The vineyards sit on clay-calcareous soils at 300 meters above sea level, with a spectacular panorama spanning the entire Piedmontese and Lombard Alpine arc. Certified organic for five years (grapes since 2017, cellar since 2022), the estate produces artisanal biological wines obtained from spontaneous fermentations of their own grapes — Cortese, Riesling, Moscato, Pinot Nero, Croatina, and Barbera. With vines ranging from 60 years old to newly replanted, trained in guyot, and a production of fewer than 10,000 bottles annually, La Rocchetta di Mondondone is a testament to what one person's dream, patience, and respect for nature can achieve.
From Abandoned Vines to a Living Dream
The story of La Rocchetta di Mondondone begins with a dream — one of those dreams that accompanies you throughout life, day and night, always present. Stefano Banfi imagined living far from the noise of the city and its smog, among the green fields of a hill from which he could admire the world. He dreamed of waking with the morning dew and falling asleep with the light of the stars. In 2012, that dream found a name: La Rocchetta di Mondondone, nestled among ancient, incredibly resilient vines that every day teach him how to grow them, care for them, and respect them.
The estate was born from the recovery of old vineyards that had been abandoned — vines left to the wilderness, their fruit unharvested, their potential untapped. Stefano took care of them, and they repaid him with their fruits, from which his first wines were born. All different from one another, full of the scents and colors of nature. Full of him and his dreams. This is not merely a winery; it is the physical manifestation of a life's vision — a place where the boundaries between the vigneron's inner world and the external landscape dissolve into a single, coherent expression.
The estate is located in the frazione of Mondondone, in the comune of Codevilla — the first farmhouse at the entrance to this tranquil hamlet. It sits on the first hills of the western Oltrepò Pavese, near Voghera, in a very peaceful place from which one can enjoy a splendid panorama that spans the entire Piedmontese and Lombard Alpine arc. On clear days, the view stretches from the Ligurian Apennines to the Monte Rosa massif — a constant reminder of the geological and climatic forces that shape the wines. The name "La Rocchetta" evokes the medieval fortress that once dominated these hills, a symbol of the deep history of this corner of Lombardy where viticulture has been practiced for centuries.
Stefano Banfi is not merely the owner; he is the vigneron, the agronomist, the enologist, the dreamer, and the storyteller. He personally guides visitors through the vineyards and cellars, showing the entire production path from grape to bottle. Every activity connected to this project — from vineyard management to cellar operations to commercialization — is guided by a deep attention to his own and others' health and to the environment in which he lives. This is a farm where the personal and the agricultural are inseparable, where the wine carries the imprint of the dreamer as much as the terroir.
"Hai mai avuto un sogno? Uno di quei sogni che ti accompagnano durante la vita, di giorno, di notte, sempre? Io immaginavo di vivere lontano dal rumore della cittá e dal suo smog, tra il verde dei campi di una collina dalla quale avrei potuto ammirare il mondo. Sognavo di svegliarmi con la rugiada del mattino e addormentarmi con la luce delle stelle. Ora il mio sogno ha un nome, La Rocchetta di Mondondone."
— Stefano Banfi
Clay-Calcareous Soils & Ancient Resilient Vines
La Rocchetta di Mondondone's vineyards are located in Codevilla, on the western hills of the Oltrepò Pavese — one of Lombardy's most important wine regions, historically known for its sparkling wines (metodo classico) and its distinctive red varieties. The estate sits on clay-calcareous soils at 300 meters above sea level, a soil composition that is the foundation of the wines' character. The clay retains moisture and imparts body and depth, while the calcareous component provides minerality, freshness, and the structural backbone necessary for wines of complexity and longevity. Together, they create a terroir that gives the wines a distinctive identity — one that Stefano has spent over a decade learning to express with precision and patience.
The Oltrepò Pavese is a territory of rolling hills, ancient villages, and deep agricultural tradition — the same landscape that has produced some of Italy's most distinctive wines for centuries. Codevilla sits on the western flank of this region, where the hills rise gently from the Po Valley toward the Ligurian Apennines. The clay-calcareous soils here are classic Oltrepò geology — medium-textured, rich in minerals, with excellent drainage thanks to the hillside slopes. The elevation of 300 meters provides a significant diurnal temperature shift during the growing season: warm days develop sugar and color in the grapes, while cool nights preserve acidity and aromatic freshness. This is the terroir that Stefano has learned to read like a book — every slope, every soil variation, every microclimate understood and respected.
The climate is continental with Apennine influence — warm, sun-drenched summers that are moderated by the elevation and the cooling breezes that sweep down from the Ligurian hills. Winters are cold, with frost that naturally controls pests and diseases. The proximity to the Po Valley brings a certain humidity, which the clay-calcareous soils' excellent drainage helps to manage. Rainfall is moderate, and the estate's organic practices help retain soil moisture and prevent erosion. The combination of warm days, cool nights, and mineral-rich soils creates ideal conditions for the estate's diverse varieties: the heat develops sugar and aromatics in Moscato and Riesling, while the limestone and diurnal shifts preserve the vibrant acidity that makes Cortese and Pinot Nero so distinctive.
Farming is certified organic and deeply hands-on. The grapes have been certified organic for five years, and the cellar received its organic certification in 2022 — a reflection of Stefano's commitment to extending organic principles from vineyard to bottle. The estate works with minimal and non-invasive treatments, in respect of nature and human health. No synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers are used. Vineyard operations, from pruning to harvesting, are conducted with great care, often manually, to select the clusters at their optimal moment of ripeness. The vines are trained in guyot, a system that ensures optimal sun exposure and air circulation. The planting density and natural competition among the vines lead to controlled yields and high-quality grapes. This is not maximum-yield agriculture; it is maximum-expression viticulture — where the health of the vine and the integrity of the grape are the foundation of everything.
Classic Oltrepò Pavese geology — clay retains moisture and imparts body; calcareous component provides minerality, freshness, and structural backbone. Medium-textured, rich in minerals. Excellent drainage from hillside slopes at 300m elevation. The foundation of the wines' distinctive identity and complexity.
Warm sun-drenched summers moderated by elevation and Ligurian hill breezes. Cold winters with natural frost pest control. Pronounced diurnal shifts at 300m. Moderate rainfall managed by organic practices. Ideal for diverse varieties — heat develops aromatics; limestone and cool nights preserve vibrant acidity.
Certified organic since 2017 (grapes), cellar certified 2022. Minimal, non-invasive treatments. No synthetic chemicals. Manual pruning and harvesting. Guyot training for optimal sun and air. Natural competition for controlled yields. Respect for nature and human health as guiding principles.
Vine age from 60 years to 7 years — ongoing renewal. Original old vines rescued from abandonment, their resilience a daily lesson. Deep roots in clay-calcareous subsoil. Concentrated, characterful fruit from ancient plants. A living archive of Oltrepò Pavese viticultural history, replanted and preserved with care.
Spontaneous Fermentations & Vinum Naturabilis
At La Rocchetta di Mondondone, the cellar philosophy is one of deliberate, artisanal naturalism — a belief that the best wines are those that require the least manipulation, and that the vigneron's role is to guide rather than control. Stefano Banfi's technical skill lies not in the application of modern technology but in his intuitive understanding of the vine, the soil, and the inherent character of each variety. All fermentations are spontaneous, initiated by indigenous yeasts present on the grapes — a key tenet of the estate's natural winemaking approach. The wines are crafted with minimal intervention: no commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. This is winemaking as an extension of the dream — patient, precise, and deeply respectful of the grape.
The techniques are demanding, intuitive, and deeply rooted in the traditions of the Oltrepò Pavese:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested from the estate's 3 hectares of vineyards. Stefano monitors each vineyard daily in the weeks leading up to harvest, tasting berries and waiting for the moment when phenolic ripeness, sugar concentration, and acid balance align. The harvest is selective and careful — only the finest bunches are chosen, and they are transported quickly to the cellar to preserve freshness. The old vines, some 60 years old, receive particular attention, their concentrated fruit handled with the care that decades of survival and resilience demand.
"Girgò" — The White Blend: The "Girgò" is a white wine that showcases the estate's inventive approach to blending indigenous and international varieties. Made from a combination of Italica (an indigenous white variety), Riesling, and Cortese, it is a wine that defies easy categorization — neither purely Oltrepò nor international, but something uniquely expressive of Stefano's vision. The grapes are hand-harvested, gently pressed, and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. The wine is aged in neutral vessels to preserve freshness and the pure expression of the fruit. The result is a wine of bright acidity, floral aromatics, and a distinct mineral undertone — lime, white flowers, almond, and a crisp, saline finish that speaks of the calcareous soils. It is fresh, vibrant, and utterly distinctive — a white that captures the sunny, Mediterranean side of the Oltrepò Pavese.
"Moscandone" — The Moscato Expression: The "Moscandone" is a white wine made from Moscato — the aromatic grape that has defined the Oltrepò Pavese for centuries. At La Rocchetta di Mondondone, Moscato is handled with the same natural approach as the estate's other wines: hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, aged in neutral vessels. The result is a wine of extraordinary aromatic intensity — orange blossom, peach, apricot, and a hint of honey — balanced by vibrant acidity and a delicate, persistent freshness. Unlike the more famous Moscato d'Asti, this is a still or lightly sparkling expression that showcases the grape's potential for complexity and terroir expression. It is the quintessential expression of the Mondondone terroir, where Moscato finds a voice that is both traditional and utterly fresh.
"Don Barbè" — The Barbera Red: The "Don Barbè" is a red wine made from Barbera — one of the Oltrepò Pavese's most important indigenous varieties. The grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed, and fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. Maceration is carefully managed to extract the full structural potential of the grape without overwhelming its natural freshness. The wine is aged in neutral vessels, preserving the vibrant acidity and red fruit character that define great Barbera. The result is a wine of structure and immediacy: vibrant red fruit flavors, generous spice aromatics, and a rich texture. It is proof that Barbera from the western Oltrepò can achieve a purity and depth that rivals the more famous expressions from Piedmont — a wine that speaks of the clay-calcareous soils and the patient hands that farmed it.
Croatina — The Structured Red: The Croatina at La Rocchetta di Mondondone is handled with the same meticulous care as the other varieties. This indigenous Lombard grape is known for its deep color, firm tannins, and ability to produce wines of surprising structure and longevity. At the estate, it is hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, and aged in neutral vessels. The result is a wine of depth and character — dark berry, plum, spice, and a distinct earthy undertone that speaks of the Oltrepò hills. It is a wine that rewards patience, developing more complexity and integration with time in the cellar.
Pinot Nero — The Elegant Red: The Pinot Nero is a testament to Stefano's willingness to work with varieties that are not traditionally associated with the Oltrepò Pavese, but that find a unique expression in the estate's terroir. Hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented, and aged with minimal intervention, it produces a wine of elegance and finesse — red cherry, rose, earth, and a silky texture that is unmistakably Pinot. It is proof that the clay-calcareous soils and the continental-Apennine climate of Mondondone can support varieties beyond the region's traditional portfolio, when handled with patience and respect.
Ageing & Bottling: The estate's approach to ageing is deliberately minimalist. Neutral vessels — stainless steel and concrete — provide the slow, gentle environment that develops complexity without adding wood flavours. There is no new oak, no barriques, no toast or vanilla — only the gift of time and the unique character of each vessel. The wines are bottled with minimal intervention, preserving their natural texture and layers of flavour. Sulfur is used sparingly, if at all. The result is wines that are pure, unadulterated reflections of their origin — alive, evolving, and unmistakably honest. Every bottle carries the legacy of Stefano's dream and the resilient vines that made it possible.
"Vinum Naturabilis" — "Artisanal Biological Wines from Spontaneous Fermentations, No Added Sulfites, No Commercial Yeasts, No Filtration"
The "Vinum Naturabilis" is La Rocchetta di Mondondone's defining philosophy — not a single wine but the ethos that permeates every bottle that leaves the estate. It is Stefano Banfi's declaration that wine should be a natural product, born from the land and guided by the vigneron's hand, not engineered in a laboratory. Every wine at La Rocchetta di Mondondone is an artisanal biological wine obtained from spontaneous fermentations of the estate's own grapes — a practice that places the estate firmly in the natural wine movement while honoring the traditions of the Oltrepò Pavese.
The philosophy begins in the vineyard: certified organic farming, minimal and non-invasive treatments, no synthetic chemicals, no pesticides, no herbicides. The grapes — Cortese, Riesling, Moscato, Pinot Nero, Croatina, and Barbera — are hand-harvested with meticulous selection, then brought to the cellar where they are gently pressed or destemmed. Fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts — no commercial strains, no temperature control, no enzymes. The maceration periods vary by variety and vintage, guided by Stefano's daily tasting and intuition rather than by rigid protocols.
Ageing takes place in neutral vessels — stainless steel and concrete tanks that provide a stable, inert environment for the wines to develop their natural complexity. There is no new oak, no barriques, no toasted wood flavours that would mask the terroir. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration in many cases, and with little to no added sulfites. This "unfiltered" and "unfined" approach preserves the wine's natural texture and layers of flavour, resulting in a product that is a pure, unadulterated reflection of its origin.
In the glass, the wines are alive — evolving, changing, never quite the same from one bottle to the next. They carry the scents and colors of nature, the imprint of the dreamer, and the resilience of vines that were once abandoned and now thrive. This is not standardized, industrial winemaking; it is a deliberate, low-tech affair that prioritizes the natural expression of the grape over technological manipulation. Every bottle is full of Stefano and his dreams — a dream that began with morning dew and starlight, and now lives in every glass poured from La Rocchetta di Mondondone. ~$18–$35 / ~€16–€32.
The La Rocchetta di Mondondone Range
Stefano Banfi produces an artisanal, natural portfolio from his 3 hectares of certified organic vineyards in Codevilla, Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged with minimal intervention in neutral vessels. No commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives. The portfolio spans the typical varieties of the Oltrepò Pavese territory — from the aromatic Moscato to the structured Croatina and the elegant Pinot Nero. Annual production is fewer than 10,000 bottles. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.