Custodian of The Land
La Stoppa is a historic estate in the Colli Piacentini, where the Trebbia River winds through the Emilian hills. Founded in the late 19th century by the forward-thinking lawyer Gian Marco Ageno, the estate was acquired by Raffaele Pantaleoni in 1973 and is now led by his daughter Elena, alongside enologist Giulio Armani. Together they have transformed La Stoppa into one of Italy's most respected natural wine estates — not through ideology, but through common sense. They farm 58 hectares total: 30 of vines, the rest oak, chestnut and acacia forests, fields, and a semi-professional vegetable garden with chickens. Their wines are born in the vineyard, not the laboratory — spontaneous fermentation, indigenous yeasts, long maceration, extended ageing in wood, and no sulphites added during vinification or bottling (save a tiny amount for the entry-level Trebbiolo). Elena does not call her wines "natural" — to her, wine has always been natural. Her goal is simpler and more profound: to be a custodian of the land, preserving the environment rather than imposing herself upon it. This is not industrial winemaking; it is a philosophy of respect, ethics, and patience.
From Ageno's Vision to Elena's Custodianship
The story of La Stoppa begins in the late 19th century, when a wealthy and forward-thinking lawyer named Gian Marco Ageno established the estate in the Trebbiola Valley, near the Trebbia River in the province of Piacenza, Emilia-Romagna. Ageno was radical for his time: he planted many international varieties — including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Tokay, and Pinot Gris — and experimented extensively. He was less focused on the traditional sparkling wines of the area and more interested in the soil and climate, which he recognised as suitable for making long-ageing wines. His approach was considered unconventional, and when he passed away in 1947, the estate was left unmanned — years of work seemingly destined for extinction.
In 1973, Raffaele Pantaleoni, a printer from Piacenza who had always dreamed of owning a winery, purchased the estate. Being from the area, he had known La Stoppa his entire life. Immediately, he and his wife began to decipher where they were and what they wanted to do. From 1973 to 1980, they spent time solely trying to understand the area — not producing wine, but observing, learning, and connecting with the land. In 1980, Giulio Armani joined the estate as enologist, and the focus shifted to producing wines armed with a deep understanding of the place and soil. Elena Pantaleoni joined in 1991, and in 1999 the land was divided with her brother.
When Elena took full responsibility of the estate, she began a profound transformation. She removed the international varieties planted by Ageno — Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and others — and replaced them with local varieties suited to the terroir. From 1996, she and Giulio began replanting entirely with Barbera and Bonarda (Croatina), the typical grapes of the region. Some very old vines of Semillon, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Merlot, and Trebbiano remained, producing low yields of excellent quality until they reached the end of their production cycle. The famous "Stoppa" wine — a Bordeaux-style blend that had made the estate famous in the 1980s — was discontinued when these old vines could no longer sustain it. Elena did not mourn its passing; she saw it as a necessary step toward authenticity.
In 2008, the estate certified organic — not as a goal, but as a prerequisite, a starting point. Elena does not put "organic" on her labels. For her, it is simply the minimum standard. The estate now employs a team of 17 people working year-round, and Elena sees La Stoppa not as a family estate but as a collective project — proof that there is another way of managing land, one that is ethical, profitable, and deeply connected to place. The estate has also developed other agricultural elements: a large semi-professional vegetable garden, chickens, bees, and forests that preserve biodiversity and balance.
"I inherited the estate and quickly understood that the vines can and will outlive me and the fact that today I am responsible for them is limited in time; being a custodian to the land and preserving the environment rather than imposing myself on nature was a spontaneous choice."
— Elena Pantaleoni, La Stoppa
Clay, Silt & The Trebbia Valley
La Stoppa's vineyards stretch along the Trebbiola Valley, in the province of Piacenza, Emilia-Romagna. The estate covers 58 hectares in total — 30 hectares of vines, with the remainder comprising oak, chestnut, and acacia forests, fields, and agricultural land. The vineyards are technically closer to Piemonte and Liguria than to the rest of Emilia-Romagna, which means the estate is regulated under the Colli Piacentini denomination rather than the Lambrusco-focused traditions of eastern Emilia. This geographical quirk has proven favourable: La Stoppa can focus on local, lesser-known varieties without the pressure to conform to mainstream Emilian styles.
The soils are the defining feature of this terroir. Heavy clay and silt dominate — ancient red soils very poor in nitrogen but rich in iron. These soils are challenging for viticulture: they retain moisture, can become compacted, and offer limited nutrients. But they also force vines to struggle, producing grapes of extraordinary concentration and acidity. The poor nitrogen content leads, at times, to a higher fermentation rate in the wines — a natural characteristic that Elena and Giulio embrace rather than fight. The clay imparts structure and depth; the silt adds finesse and mineral complexity. Together, they create wines with the spine necessary for long ageing — what the French call "vin de garde."
The climate is warm and continental, with significant influence from the surrounding hills and the Trebbia River. The area receives abundant sunshine — too much, in fact, for early-ripening international varieties, which is why Ageno's original plantings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay ultimately proved unsuitable. But this same warmth, combined with the poor soils and high acidity of the local varieties, creates ideal conditions for structured, age-worthy reds. In recent years, vintages have shown variation: 2016, 2019, and 2020 were fresher and more productive, demonstrating how climate shifts affect the wines even when cellar processes remain constant.
Farming is organic certified since 2008, with natural green cover between the rows. No fertilisers, weed killers, or pesticides are used. Everything is done by hand — pruning, harvesting, and all cellar work. Treatments are made by tractor, and since last year the soils are worked with a machine that tills very superficially, breaking up grass and mulching it into the soil without deep disturbance. The estate preserves biodiversity with forests, bees, and a vegetable garden. Elena believes that monoculture is dangerous; balance is essential. The vines are trained on simple Guyot systems, with densities of 4,000 to 6,000 plants per hectare. Yields are kept low to ensure concentration and quality.
Ancient red soils, very poor in nitrogen, rich in iron. Heavy clay provides structure and depth; silt adds finesse and mineral complexity. Challenging for vines, extraordinary for wine — the foundation of La Stoppa's age-worthy character.
Abundant sunshine, continental influence, Trebbia River moderation. Too warm for early-ripening international varieties — perfect for high-acid local grapes. Wide vintage variation; each year tells a different story despite consistent cellar practices.
Organic certified since 2008 — a prerequisite, not a goal. Natural green cover between rows. No fertilisers, weed killers, or pesticides. Forests, bees, vegetable garden, chickens. Superficial soil tillage to preserve structure. Hand-pruned, hand-harvested.
Barbera and Bonarda (Croatina) replanted from 1996. Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Ortrugo, Trebbiano for whites. Old vines of Bordeaux varieties allowed to reach end of cycle. Simple Guyot, 4,000–6,000 plants/ha. Low yields for concentration.
Time, Patience & No Compromise
At La Stoppa, the cellar philosophy is one of radical patience and minimal intervention — not as ideology, but as common sense. Elena and Giulio Armani do not follow recipes or industrial protocols; they follow the grapes and the seasons. All fermentations are spontaneous with indigenous yeasts. Nothing is ever added or subtracted from the juice. Sulphur is never added during vinification or bottling, except for a tiny amount in the entry-level Trebbiolo. As Giulio once told Elena: "Why should I buy commercial yeasts when the juice is always fermenting itself, anyway?" For them, there is no such thing as "natural wine" — there is only wine, made the way it has always been made here.
The techniques are demanding, intuitive, and deeply respectful of the raw material:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are hand-harvested with meticulous care. The team waits for optimal maturity, tasting berries daily in the weeks leading up to harvest. Because the estate is dedicated to long-ageing wines, phenolic ripeness is essential — but so is acidity, which the poor soils and Barbera's natural character provide. Harvest is a team effort, with 17 people working together throughout the year.
Reds — Long Maceration & Ageing: The reds undergo long maceration on the skins — around 40 days for Macchiona, one month for the standard Barbera, and two weeks for the younger Trebbiolo. Pumpovers are used, but no punchdowns, as the wines already have abundant structure and tannins naturally. Fermentation often stops on its own due to the low nitrogen and high sugar content of the fruit. The wines are then aged in Slavonian oak barrels of 15 and 20 hectolitres, as well as 40-hectolitre wooden tanks, for extended periods. During springtime, they often start to ferment again — a natural process that adds complexity. The best friend at La Stoppa is time: with time, balance and elegance emerge. The wines are bottled without filtration and no sulphites added.
"Trebbiolo" — The Young Red: Made from the youngest and lowest vineyards, Trebbiolo is the estate's entry-level wine — a blend of 60% Barbera and 40% Bonarda. It ferments in stainless steel and is sold the summer after harvest, offering a lighter, fresher, more immediate expression of the terroir. Unlike the other reds, it receives a tiny amount of sulphur — the only wine in the portfolio to do so. It is crunchy, fruity, and utterly drinkable — the friendly face of La Stoppa.
"Macchiona" — The Flagship Red: A blend of 50% Barbera and 50% Bonarda from vines of 15 and 40 years old. Macchiona is the name of a farmhouse found among the most traditional red grape vineyards of the Colli Piacentini. The wine undergoes 40 days of maceration, then ages in large Slavonian oak barrels and wooden tanks before bottle ageing for as long as necessary. It is released at least five years after harvest — sometimes longer. The 2005 vintage, opened years after release, demonstrated extraordinary ageing capacity: decisive freshness from the acidity of both varieties, firm but gentle tannins, and a complexity that only time can provide. Macchiona is not bottled chronologically; it is released when deemed optimal to drink.
"Ageno" — The Iconic Orange Wine: Named after the estate's founder, Ageno is a dry white wine made from 90% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and 10% Ortrugo and Trebbiano. Until 1995, Elena made dry white by direct pressing, primarily from Sauvignon — but the results lacked the personality of the place. After a seven-year hiatus from dry whites, she and Giulio asked: "If we want to make wines from the terroir, why would we vinify differently according to the colour of the grapes?" Drawing on Mediterranean traditions where farmers macerate all grapes regardless of colour, they began experimenting in 2001 and 2002. Ageno undergoes 30 days of skin contact maceration, then ages in 40-hectolitre wooden tanks. The result is a burnished amber wine — full-bodied, spicy, honeyed, with haunting aromas of rose, musk, chamomile, and thyme. Complex but delicate, full but light, elements of sweetness but still very dry. The tannins from skin contact give it structure and make it pair beautifully with fatty or sweet foods — aged cheese, prosciutto, rich pasta.
"Vino del Volta" — The Passito: A dessert wine made from 95% Malvasia di Candia grapes dried in the sun. Aged 10 months in barriques and two years in bottle, it is a vino di meditazione — not too sweet, full of the aromatic characteristics of the grape. It represents the estate's ability to harness the abundant Emilian sun for wines of extraordinary concentration and depth.
Bottling & Release: La Stoppa's approach to bottling and release can be described in two words: observation and patience. It is not uncommon for wines to age in barrel for years before bottling, and then many more in bottle before release. A younger vintage can be bottled before an older one; vintages are not chronologically released. The wines are commercialized when deemed optimal to drink — a challenging and costly endeavour that few wineries are willing to undertake. But Elena and Giulio wouldn't have it any other way. No filtration. No sulphites (except Trebbiolo). Only time, gravity, and the natural evolution of the wine.
"Ageno" — "Burnished Amber — Rose, Musk, Chamomile & The Memory of a Radical Lawyer"
The "Ageno" is La Stoppa's most iconic and revolutionary wine — an orange wine that challenged conventions, redefined the estate's identity, and proved that white grapes in a warm climate deserve the same respect as reds. Named after Gian Marco Ageno, the forward-thinking lawyer who founded the estate in the late 19th century, it is a tribute to radical vision and the courage to question tradition.
The grapes come from the organically farmed vineyards in the Trebbiola Valley — 90% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica and 10% Ortrugo and Trebbiano. Malvasia provides the aromatic intensity: rose, musk, tropical flowers. Ortrugo and Trebbiano contribute the acidity and structural backbone that allow the wine to age and evolve. The vines grow on heavy clay and silt soils, poor in nitrogen but rich in iron, at densities of 4,000–6,000 plants per hectare. Harvest is entirely by hand, with careful selection of the ripest, healthiest bunches.
In the cellar, the grapes undergo 30 days of skin contact maceration — a technique drawn from ancient Mediterranean traditions where farmers made no distinction between red and white grapes. Fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and/or cement tanks. The wine is then aged in 40-hectolitre wooden tanks, where it develops complexity, texture, and natural stability. No filtration. No sulphites. Only time and patience.
In the glass, it is burnished amber with a luminous, almost glowing intensity. The nose is haunting and complex — rose petals, musk, chamomile, thyme, wild honey, dried apricot, and a distinct mineral earthiness that speaks of the clay beneath the vines. The palate is full-bodied and enveloping, with a spicy, honeyed texture that belies its dryness. There are elements of sweetness — from the ripe fruit and extended lees contact — but the wine remains resolutely dry, with vibrant acidity and tannins from the skin contact providing structure and food-pairing versatility.
Ageno is a study in paradoxes: complex but delicate, full but light, aromatic but mineral. It pairs with aged cheeses, prosciutto, fatty fish, rich pasta, and anything that benefits from a wine with both cut and generosity. It will reward 5–10 years of cellaring, developing more earthy, nutty, and dried fruit complexity. Serve at 14–16°C and allow to breathe. This is not merely an orange wine; it is a philosophy in a bottle — proof that terroir, tradition, and courage can transform a region's identity. ~$35–$55 / ~€32–€50.
The La Stoppa Range
Elena Pantaleoni and Giulio Armani produce an artisanal, organic portfolio from their 30 hectares of certified organic vineyards in Rivergaro, Colli Piacentini, Emilia-Romagna. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, and bottled without filtration. Sulphites are never added during vinification or bottling, except for a tiny amount in Trebbiolo. The portfolio spans long-ageing reds, iconic orange wines, and a rare passito. Wines are released when deemed optimal to drink — often years after harvest — regardless of chronological vintage order. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.