Let the Wine Make Itself
Le Rogaie is the young, sustainable micro-winery of Pietro Poggi and his family, founded in 2019 in the heart of the Tuscan Maremma, near Magliano in Toscana in the province of Grosseto. A harmonious whole that combines vineyards, olive groves, and wild Mediterranean vegetation, the estate produces only around 10,000 bottles annually — a quantity that allows for meticulous attention to detail and an unwavering commitment to quality over volume. The name "Le Rogaie" is a Tuscan term for "brambles," evoking the untamed, passionate character of the Maremma landscape. The vineyards are farmed organically with no irrigation, no chemical treatments or fertilization, and horses are used to graze the weeds. In the cellar, the philosophy is radical minimalism: indigenous yeasts, concrete vats, and the bare minimum of filtration, clarification, and sulfur. The result is a small portfolio of three wines — Morellino di Scansano, Ciliegiolo, and Lupo Bianco — each one an authentic, pure expression of the warm, coastal Maremma terroir.
Brambles, Passion & the Maremma
Pietro Poggi and his family are not career winemakers in the traditional sense — they are returners, stewards, and passionate advocates for a land that has given them everything. In 2019, they founded Le Rogaie with a clear, unwavering goal: to combine sustainability, tradition, and innovation; to produce wine in a modern and sustainable way with respect for the soil, animals, and landscape; to preserve diversity and pass on healthy viticulture and land to future generations. This is not a business plan; it is a life plan — a commitment to the Maremma that stretches beyond the present moment into a future they are actively shaping with every vine they plant, every bottle they fill, every visitor they welcome.
The name "Le Rogaie" is a Tuscan term for "brambles" — the wild, thorny undergrowth that characterizes the untamed edges of the Maremma landscape. But the name also evokes something deeper: passion. The rogaie are not merely weeds; they are the living boundary between cultivation and wilderness, between human order and natural chaos. They are the symbol of a place where agriculture and wildness coexist, where the vineyard is not an isolated monoculture but part of a larger ecosystem of olive groves, Mediterranean scrub, and wildlife. This is the spirit that animates Le Rogaie — not control, but coexistence; not domination, but harmony.
The estate is a small, harmonious whole that combines vineyards, olive groves, and wild Mediterranean vegetation full of wildlife. Under Pietro's leadership, the family has created a working landscape where every element supports every other: the vineyards provide grapes for wine, the olive groves produce extra virgin olive oil, the wild vegetation supports biodiversity, and the horses that graze the weeds contribute to soil health and weed control without chemicals. This is integrated agriculture in its purest form — a system that mimics nature rather than fighting it, that builds resilience rather than dependency, that creates abundance rather than extraction.
The Poggi family started this adventure to give back to the Maremma some of what it has given them over the years. "Together, we work to keep alive the traditions related to Olive Oil and Vinification, integrating them with innovative and sustainable methods," they write. This is the essence of Le Rogaie: tradition and innovation not as opposites but as partners, the old ways of farming enriched by modern understanding of ecology, soil science, and biodiversity. The result is a project that is simultaneously ancient and cutting-edge — a winery that would have been recognizable to a Tuscan farmer of a century ago, yet is also a model for sustainable agriculture in the 21st century.
"We want to let the wine (almost) make itself, which is why we use exclusively indigenous yeasts and minimize interventions such as filtering and clarification."
— Pietro Poggi & Family, Le Rogaie
Maremma & Organic Dry Farming
Le Rogaie's vineyards are located in the Maremma region of Tuscany, near the town of Magliano in Toscana, in the province of Grosseto. This is the warmest and closest-to-the-sea area in all of Tuscany — a coastal landscape of extraordinary agricultural richness where the Mediterranean climate creates conditions unlike anywhere else in the region. The Maremma is distinct from the more famous areas like Chianti or Montalcino: it is warmer, drier, wilder, and less tamed by centuries of intensive cultivation. The result is a terroir of unique character — one that produces wines of full maturity, rich fruit, and a certain untamed energy that speaks of the land's proximity to the sea and its exposure to the Mediterranean sun.
The farming is organic and radically sustainable, going far beyond simple certification. No chemicals are used to treat or fertilize the vineyards — no synthetic pesticides, no herbicides, no industrial fertilizers. The vineyards are not irrigated — a deliberate choice that stresses the vines, reduces yields, and concentrates flavors. Weeds are controlled not by machinery or chemicals but by horses, who graze the vineyard rows, eating the weeds and contributing natural fertilizer in return. This is not merely practical; it is philosophical — a rejection of the industrial model of viticulture in favor of an integrated, ecological approach that treats the vineyard as part of a larger living system. The harvest is, of course, entirely by hand, with rigorous selection of only the healthiest, most concentrated bunches.
The estate's commitment to sustainability extends beyond the vineyard to every aspect of the operation. The olive groves are cultivated with the same organic principles, producing extra virgin olive oil from three typical Maremma varieties — Leccino, Moraiolo, and Correggiolo — using exclusively mechanical processes and cold pressing to preserve quality and maintain connection with tradition. The wild Mediterranean vegetation that surrounds the vineyards and olive groves is not cleared but encouraged, creating a habitat for wildlife, beneficial insects, and native plants that contribute to the overall health and biodiversity of the estate. This is agriculture as ecology — farming that improves the land with each passing season.
The grape varieties are chosen for their historical adaptation to the Maremma climate and their ability to express the unique character of this coastal terroir. Sangiovese is the backbone — the key grape of Morellino di Scansano and the defining variety of Tuscan red wine. Ciliegiolo is a native grape known for its bright red fruit and elegant character, a variety that has grown in the Maremma for centuries and carries the genetic memory of this place. Ansonica, Trebbiano, Vermentino, and Malvasia form the white wine palette — varieties that thrive in the warm, sunny climate and produce wines of freshness, savoriness, and mineral complexity. Together, they form a portfolio that is deeply rooted in the Maremma and boldly expressive of its unique conditions.
Near Magliano in Toscana, province of Grosseto. Warmest, closest-to-the-sea area in Tuscany. Mediterranean climate — hot, dry summers, mild winters. Distinct from Chianti and Montalcino. Full maturity, rich fruit, untamed energy. Proximity to the sea creates unique microclimate. Wild, less tamed landscape.
No irrigation — deliberate water stress for concentration. No chemical treatments or fertilization. No synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or industrial fertilizers. Horses graze weeds — natural weed control and fertilizer. Hand-harvested with rigorous selection. Integrated agriculture — vineyard, olive grove, wild vegetation as one system.
Sangiovese (backbone of Morellino di Scansano, defining Tuscan red). Ciliegiolo (native, bright red fruit, elegant character). Ansonica, Trebbiano, Vermentino, Malvasia (white palette for warm climate). All historically adapted to Maremma. Expressive of coastal terroir — full maturity balanced by careful winemaking.
Harmonious whole — vineyards, olive groves, wild Mediterranean vegetation. Olive oil from Leccino, Moraiolo, Correggiolo — cold pressed, mechanical only. Wildlife habitat encouraged, not cleared. Biodiversity as priority. Agriculture that improves land with each season. Model for 21st-century sustainable farming.
Indigenous Yeasts & Concrete Vats
At Le Rogaie, the cellar philosophy is one of radical minimalism — not as a rejection of knowledge, but as a commitment to allowing the wine to express itself with as little human interference as possible. "We want to let the wine (almost) make itself," Pietro and his family declare — a statement that encapsulates their entire approach. The wines are fermented exclusively with indigenous yeasts, and interventions such as filtering, clarification, and the use of sulfur are minimized to the bare minimum. The result is a portfolio of wines that are authentic, pure, and deeply expressive of the Maremma terroir — wines that taste of the warm coastal climate, the dry-farmed vineyards, the wild Mediterranean vegetation, and the patient, attentive hands that made them.
The techniques are straightforward yet precise, shaped by the family's commitment to sustainability and their deep respect for the material:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested from the estate's organic, dry-farmed vineyards. The family monitors each parcel daily in the weeks leading up to harvest, tasting berries and waiting for the moment when phenolic ripeness, sugar concentration, and acid balance align. The early harvest is a defining feature of Le Rogaie's approach — unlike many Maremma producers who wait for full maturity, Pietro picks earlier to preserve acidity and freshness, ensuring that the wines retain the structural integrity and complexity that can be lost in the region's warm climate. The harvest is selective and careful — only the finest bunches are chosen, and they are transported quickly to the cellar to preserve freshness.
"Morellino di Scansano" — The Signature Red: The Morellino di Scansano is Le Rogaie's most celebrated wine — a pure Sangiovese that redefines what this iconic Maremma wine can be. Classic Morellino is distinctly fruity, uncomplicated, and highly drinkable — a wine of pleasure rather than complexity, shaped by the warm climate that drives full maturity and reduces acidity. At Le Rogaie, they make it differently. They use only Sangiovese grapes from their own vineyards and do not combine them with other varieties, as is sometimes the custom. Thanks to early harvesting, they retain acidity that classic Morellino often lacks, and the old vineyards give the wine structure and depth. The entire vinification takes place in concrete vats — neutral vessels that preserve a pure, clean taste without the influence of wood. The result is a Morellino that is significantly more acidic, juicier, and richer than the norm — a wine of unexpected complexity and ageing potential. In the glass, it is ruby-garnet with brilliant clarity. The nose offers bright cherry, wild strawberry, violet, rosemary, and a distinct mineral salinity. The palate is medium-bodied, with vibrant acidity, fine-grained tannins, and a long, savory finish. It is a wine that pairs beautifully with rustic Tuscan dishes — grilled meats, mature cheeses, thick soups, game. Serve at 16–18°C. ~$22–$32 / ~€20–€29.
"Ciliegiolo" — The Native Red: The Ciliegiolo is a red wine made from the native Ciliegiolo grape — a variety known for its bright red fruit, elegant character, and historical significance in the Maremma. Unlike Sangiovese, which can be powerful and structured, Ciliegiolo is lighter, more fragrant, and more immediately approachable — a wine of charm and finesse rather than power. At Le Rogaie, it is made with the same minimal intervention: hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats, and bottled with minimal filtration and sulfur. The result is a wine of extraordinary purity — wild cherry, pomegranate, rose petal, and a hint of Mediterranean herbs. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with soft tannins, refreshing acidity, and a clean, mineral finish. It is a wine of immediate pleasure but also of subtle complexity — the kind of wine that improves with air and rewards attention. Serve slightly chilled at 14–16°C with light pasta dishes, grilled vegetables, or simply on its own. ~$20–$28 / ~€18–€25.
"Lupo Bianco" — The White Blend: The Lupo Bianco is Le Rogaie's white wine — a blend of Ansonica, Trebbiano, Vermentino, and Malvasia that captures the fresh, savory, mineral character of the Maremma coast. The name "Lupo Bianco" (White Wolf) evokes the wild, untamed spirit of the Maremma — a landscape where wolves once roamed and where wildness still lingers at the edges of cultivation. The grapes are hand-harvested, gently pressed, and fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats. The result is a wine of crystalline purity and coastal freshness — green apple, citrus zest, white flowers, almond, and a distinct saline minerality that speaks of the vineyard's proximity to the sea. The palate is crisp, textured, and refreshing, with a savory finish that calls for seafood, grilled fish, or simply a sunny afternoon. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. ~$18–$26 / ~€16–€23.
Concrete Vats & Ageing: Le Rogaie works exclusively with concrete vats for fermentation and ageing — a deliberate choice that reflects the family's commitment to preserving the pure, clean taste of the wine without the influence of wood. Concrete provides thermal stability, gentle micro-oxygenation, and a completely neutral environment that allows the grape's natural character to shine. There is no oak, no barrique, no toast, no vanilla — only the honest interaction between wine, yeast, and stone. The concrete vats are simple, rational spaces that allow the family to work in maximum safety and cleanliness. After fermentation, the wines are aged in concrete until they reach optimal balance, then bottled with minimal filtration and the bare minimum of sulfur. The result is wines that are alive, authentic, and profoundly expressive of their terroir.
"Morellino di Scansano" — "100% Sangiovese — Early Harvest, Indigenous Yeasts, Concrete Vat Vinification & Ageing, Minimal Filtration & Sulfur — The Reimagined Soul of Maremma"
The Morellino di Scansano is Le Rogaie's most celebrated and distinctive wine — a pure Sangiovese of extraordinary acidity, juiciness, and richness that redefines what this iconic Maremma wine can be. It is not merely a Morellino; it is a challenge to the conventions of warm-climate winemaking, a proof that early harvesting and minimal intervention can produce wines of unexpected complexity and depth, and a testament to the Poggi family's commitment to letting the wine express itself.
The name "Morellino di Scansano" is one of the most famous in Tuscan wine — the signature red of the Maremma, produced in the vicinity of the town of Scansano. Classic Morellino is distinctly fruity, uncomplicated, and highly drinkable — a wine of pleasure shaped by the warm climate that drives full maturity and reduces acidity. Many producers blend Sangiovese with other varieties to soften the wine and increase approachability. At Le Rogaie, Pietro and his family reject this approach entirely.
The grapes come exclusively from the estate's own organic, dry-farmed vineyards — old vines of Sangiovese that have adapted to the Maremma's warm, coastal climate over decades. The viticulture is organic and sustainable: no irrigation, no chemical treatments, no synthetic fertilizers. Weeds are controlled by grazing horses. The harvest is entirely by hand, with rigorous selection of only the healthiest bunches. The defining feature is the early harvest — unlike most Maremma producers who wait for maximum maturity, Pietro picks earlier to preserve the acidity and freshness that give the wine its structural backbone and ageing potential.
In the cellar, the grapes are destemmed and crushed, then transferred to concrete vats where spontaneous fermentation begins with indigenous yeasts. The concrete provides thermal stability and gentle micro-oxygenation without introducing any flavors of wood or toast. There is no temperature control, no commercial yeast, no enzymes, no additives. The maceration is adapted to the vintage — long enough to extract color, tannin, and complexity from the thick-skinned Sangiovese, but not so long as to create heaviness or bitterness. After fermentation, the wine ages in concrete until it reaches optimal balance — typically 12–18 months — before bottling with minimal filtration and the bare minimum of sulfur.
In the glass, it is ruby-garnet with brilliant clarity. The nose is a revelation for those accustomed to classic Morellino: bright cherry, wild strawberry, pomegranate, violet, rosemary, thyme, and a distinct mineral salinity that speaks of the dry-farmed, stress-grown vines. The palate is medium-bodied but structured, with vibrant acidity that dances across the tongue, fine-grained tannins that provide grip without aggression, and a long, savory finish that lingers for minutes. This is not the soft, fruity Morellino of the tourist restaurants; it is a wine of matter and finesse, of structure and soul, that demands food and rewards patience.
The Morellino di Scansano is a wine of the table — it pairs beautifully with rustic Tuscan dishes such as grilled meats, mature Pecorino, thick ribollita soup, wild boar ragù, or simply a Florentine steak cooked over charcoal. Serve at 16–18°C after decanting. It will reward 5–10 years of cellaring, developing more earthy, leathery, and dried herb complexity. Every bottle is a testament to the power of early harvesting, the beauty of concrete ageing, and the enduring magic of wines that honor the land without excessive intervention. ~$22–$32 / ~€20–€29.
The Le Rogaie Range
Pietro Poggi and his family produce a small portfolio of only three wines from their organic, dry-farmed vineyards and olive groves in Magliano in Toscana, Maremma, Grosseto, Tuscany. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested with early picking to preserve acidity, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats, and bottled with minimal filtration, clarification, and sulfur. No commercial yeasts, no enzymes, no additives, no oak, no barrique. The portfolio includes two reds and one white — each one an authentic, pure expression of the warm, coastal Maremma terroir. Annual production: approximately 10,000 bottles. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.
Le Rogaie produces only three wines — a deliberate choice that reflects the family's commitment to quality over quantity and their belief that a small, focused portfolio allows for meticulous attention to detail. The estate also produces extra virgin olive oil from Leccino, Moraiolo, and Correggiolo olives, using exclusively mechanical processes and cold pressing. Contact the winery directly for availability, as production is limited and sells out quickly.
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Direct from the Winery: You can contact the winery directly to arrange a purchase or a visit.
Website: https://lerogaie.com/en/
The Italians: This online retailer features Le Rogaie as a sustainable and natural wine producer.