From the Bunker to the Moon
Les Chais du Port de la Lune is one of France's most audacious and innovative natural wine projects — an urban winery founded by Laurent Bordes in 2017, hidden behind an unassuming blue door on a small street in Bordeaux's Chartrons neighbourhood. The name references Bordeaux's ancient nickname, "Port of the Moon," bestowed because of the crescent shape of the Garonne River as it meanders through the city — but it also encapsulates the wine's ability to transport us far beyond the region's conservative, neoclassical traditions. The cellar itself is a converted WWII bunker — a wild network of seemingly endless tunnels with thick concrete walls that provide perfect natural temperature control. In this extraordinary space, Laurent makes gorgeous wines from organic and biodynamic grapes sourced from partner growers across ten different regions of France: Bordeaux, Beaujolais, the Loire, Languedoc, Corbières, Madiran, and beyond. He operates entirely outside the AOC system, producing Vin de France wines with radical freedom — indigenous yeasts, no fining, no filtration, always less than 30ppm sulfur dioxide. He drives over 10,000 kilometres each harvest to collect grapes, transports them back to Bordeaux, and personally bottles and wax-seals every single one of the 50,000 bottles produced annually. This is not merely winemaking; it is a revolution in a bottle — a modern négociant model that proves Bordeaux, the most traditional wine region in the world, can be fertile ground for innovation, creativity, and pure, unadulterated pleasure.
From Tradition to the Bunker Revolution
The Laurent Bordes story begins in Bordeaux — a city of neoclassical grandiosity, three-star restaurants, and some of the most conservative, traditional wine culture in France. For centuries, Bordeaux has been defined by châteaux, classifications, and rigid Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) regulations that dictate everything from grape varieties to vineyard practices to winemaking techniques. It is a world of hierarchy, heritage, and conformity — the antithesis of the natural wine movement.
Laurent's radical alternative emerged in 2017, when he founded Les Chais du Port de la Lune with a clear, rebellious vision: to operate entirely outside the AOC system and its regulations. Instead of producing "Bordeaux" wines, he decided to produce Vin de France (VdF) — a classification that allows winemakers far more flexibility than AOC rules. The idea was revolutionary for the region: rather than being bound by the constraints of local terroir and tradition, Laurent would source grapes from all over France, bring them to Bordeaux, and create wines that reflected his own taste, his own creativity, and his own definition of balance.
The challenge was immense. Sourcing grapes from other producers to make wine is common in New World regions like Napa, but it is far less common in France — except in Burgundy. At first, winegrowers were puzzled by Laurent's requests. "You want to buy my grapes? Why? I can make wine for you!" But eventually, they understood. Today, Laurent has a well-established network of partner winegrowers across ten regions, from young growers who have recently taken over family estates to experienced veterans. He works with growers who are "hyper motivated to make great wines in collaboration with me," as he puts it — people who share his commitment to organic and biodynamic farming and his belief in the power of collaboration.
The winery itself is as unconventional as the project. Laurent found a converted WWII bunker on the outskirts of Bordeaux — the area, full of these abandoned wartime relics, has been reinvented as an art and industrial district. The thick concrete walls provide perfect natural temperature control, creating an ideal environment for natural fermentation and ageing. The bunker is a "wine cellar speakeasy" — there is no sign on the door, and it is easy to walk right past. But inside, a wild network of seemingly endless tunnels houses barrels, tanks, and the restless energy of a man who has redefined what Bordeaux can be.
"Bordeaux is one of the most historical and traditional wine regions in France, but Laurent Bordes is showing that it can still be fertile ground for innovation and creativity. His project, 'Les Chais du Port de la Lune,' which translates to 'the cellars of the port of the moon,' is a modern take on the classic négociant model."
— Williams Corner Wine
Ten Regions, One Vision — Organic & Biodynamic
Les Chais du Port de la Lune's "vineyards" are not confined to a single terroir but spread across ten different regions of France — a deliberate choice that allows Laurent to create wines of extraordinary diversity and complexity. The partner growers are located in Bordeaux and its surroundings, Beaujolais, the Loire Valley, Languedoc, Corbières, Madiran, and beyond. Each region contributes its own distinct character: the structure and depth of Bordeaux, the juicy vibrancy of Beaujolais Gamay, the mineral precision of Loire Chenin, the wild herbs of Languedoc, the power of Madiran Tannat.
All partner vineyards are certified organic, and many use biodynamic practices. Laurent is meticulous about his partnerships — he seeks out growers who are not merely selling grapes but are "hyper motivated to make great wines in collaboration with me." By purchasing grapes at a fair price, he supports the farmers' efforts to continually improve their vineyards and produce better fruit each year. The relationships are built on mutual respect and shared philosophy: organic farming, minimal intervention, and a belief that great wine begins with healthy, living soil.
The logistics are staggering. Laurent drives over 10,000 kilometres each year during harvest to collect grapes from his partner growers and transport them back to Bordeaux. The grapes are hand-harvested and immediately transported — freshness and integrity are paramount. Once in Bordeaux, the grapes are destemmed and pressed at a different location, and the freshly pressed must is transported to the bunker, where alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. The scale of this operation — juggling multiple regions, different climates, different ripening dates — would overwhelm most winemakers, but Laurent thrives on the challenge.
The grapes Laurent works with span an extraordinary array of varieties: Chardonnay, Colombard, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Gamay, Tannat, and more. This diversity is intentional — it gives him the raw material to create blends that transcend regional boundaries and express a uniquely personal vision of what French wine can be.
Bordeaux, Beaujolais, Loire, Languedoc, Corbières, Madiran, and beyond. Each region contributes its distinct character. Grapes transported 10,000km+ annually. A map of France in every bottle.
All vineyards certified organic, many biodynamic. Fair prices supporting farmer improvement. Young growers and experienced veterans. Hyper-motivated collaborators. Mutual respect and shared philosophy.
Converted wartime bunker in Chartrons. Thick concrete walls for natural temperature control. Wild network of endless tunnels. Speakeasy entrance — no sign on the door. Art and industrial district location.
All grapes hand-harvested. Immediately transported to Bordeaux. Destemmed and pressed off-site. Must ferments in stainless steel in the bunker. Freshness and integrity paramount.
Indigenous Yeasts, No Filtration & <30ppm Sulfur
At Les Chais du Port de la Lune, the cellar philosophy is one of low intervention, personal taste, and the relentless pursuit of balance. Laurent takes a hands-on approach to every stage of the process, from grape selection to blending to bottling. His goal is not to replicate regional styles but to create wines that are "craveable and easy to drink" — wines that transcend their origins and speak directly to pleasure.
The techniques are precise and consistent:
Harvest: All grapes are hand-harvested by partner growers and immediately transported to Bordeaux. Laurent is present for critical decisions — when to pick, how to pick, and how to transport. The 10,000-kilometre annual harvest journey is a testament to his commitment to sourcing the best possible fruit.
Vinification: Fermentation exclusively with native yeasts. No commercial strains, no enzymes, no temperature control beyond the natural coolness of the bunker. Grapes from different regions ferment separately, allowing Laurent to assess each parcel's character before blending. The whites are fermented and aged mainly in old Burgundy barrels, while the reds ferment in stainless steel then age in old Bordeaux barriques. Laurent is also experimenting with terracotta amphora pots — always pushing boundaries, always seeking new expressions.
Blending: This is where Laurent's artistry shines. "I blend these grapes according to my taste in order to find a unique balance of flavors," he explains. The challenge of harmonising grapes from ten different regions is immense — different climates, different soils, different ripening dates, different varieties. But Laurent sees this not as a problem but as an opportunity. Each cuvée is a composition, a personal vision of balance and pleasure that could not exist within the constraints of a single appellation.
Ageing: All wines undergo malolactic fermentation in neutral, old oak barrels. This contact with oak enhances the wines' aromas and allows oxygen to enter gradually, converting sharp malic acid into softer, creamier lactic acid. The process softens tannins and enhances the wine's weight and texture — a crucial step in creating the "craveable" wines Laurent seeks.
Bottling: No fining, no filtration. Laurent personally bottles and wax-seals each of the 50,000 bottles produced annually — a staggering amount of manual labour that he has tried to delegate but found impossible. "After a couple of hours, they had had enough," he says of would-be helpers. The wax seal is not merely decorative; it is a mark of authenticity, of personal investment, of a wine that has been touched by human hands at every stage.
The portfolio is a vibrant, ever-evolving range of red, white, and rosé cuvées, each with a distinctive name and personality:
"Canon": The estate's signature red — a natty, lively blend of 12 different co-planted varieties, or a mix of Syrah from Corbières, Gamay from Beaujolais, and Tannat from Madiran. Not your ordinary Bordeaux red blend — this is a wine that breaks every rule and delivers pure joy.
"Soufflé": A white blend of Chardonnay, Colombard, and Ugni Blanc. Bright citrus and herbal notes on a soft, lush body. The nose oscillates between melting pear, star anise, and white flowers. A white with two faces: the fullness of Chardonnay, the brightness of Colombard.
"Reverb": Structured and mouthwatering, carried by delicate freshness and an elegant finish. Perfect with a seafood platter or grilled fish. The name suggests echo, resonance, the lingering impression of a wine that stays with you.
"Mélodie": A harmonious blend that sings with fruit and finesse. The melody of multiple regions, multiple varieties, united in a single, compelling composition.
"Écho": Another expression of Laurent's blending artistry — a wine that reverberates with the character of its diverse origins.
"Lune": The moon itself — perhaps the most poetic cuvée, capturing the nocturnal, mystical quality of the Port de la Lune name.
"Canon" — "A Natty, Lively Blend of 12 Co-Planted Varieties"
The "Canon" is Les Chais du Port de la Lune's most distinctive red cuvée — a bold, rule-breaking blend that demonstrates what happens when Syrah from Corbières, Gamay from Beaujolais, Tannat from Madiran, and a dozen other varieties converge in a single bottle, fermented with indigenous yeasts in a WWII bunker and aged with minimal intervention.
The grapes are hand-harvested from partner growers across multiple regions of France — each parcel selected for its quality, its organic certification, and its ability to contribute something unique to the final blend. Laurent drives thousands of kilometres during harvest to collect these grapes, transporting them immediately to Bordeaux to preserve their freshness. In the bunker, the grapes ferment separately with indigenous yeasts, allowing Laurent to assess each parcel's character before composing the final blend.
The blending is where Laurent's artistry shines. "I blend these grapes according to my taste in order to find a unique balance of flavors," he explains. The result is a wine that transcends regional boundaries — not a Bordeaux, not a Rhône, not a Beaujolais, but something entirely new. The wine ages in old barrels, undergoing malolactic fermentation that softens the tannins and enhances texture. Bottled unfined, unfiltered, and with less than 30ppm sulfur, then personally wax-sealed by Laurent himself.
In the glass, it is deep ruby with a vibrant, youthful rim. The nose is a complex weave of red and black fruit — cherry, blackberry, plum — interwoven with wild herbs, pepper, and a hint of smoke from the diverse terroirs. The palate is medium-bodied and juicy, with gentle tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory finish that invites another glass. This is not a wine for traditionalists; it is a wine for adventurers, for hedonists, for anyone who believes that French wine can be both rooted in tradition and wildly innovative. Serve at 14–16°C. Drink young. ~$22–$32 / ~€20–€28.
The Les Chais du Port de la Lune Range
Laurent Bordes produces a vibrant, innovative portfolio of approximately 50,000 bottles annually from grapes sourced across ten regions of France. All partner vineyards are certified organic or in conversion, with many using biodynamic practices. Wines are hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts in a converted WWII bunker in Bordeaux, and aged in old Burgundy barrels (whites) or old Bordeaux barriques (reds). No fining, no filtration, always less than 30ppm sulfur dioxide. Laurent personally bottles and wax-seals every bottle. The portfolio spans reds, whites, and rosés — each a unique blend that transcends regional boundaries and expresses Laurent's personal vision of balance, pleasure, and innovation. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.
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Marée Haute: A UK-based retailer with a strong focus on natural, organic, and biodynamic wines. They often feature various cuvées from this producer.
Bottega Volo: A Toronto-based retailer and restaurant that imports and sells a curated selection of natural wines, including those from Les Chais du Port de la Lune.
Cave Pur Jus: A French online retailer that provides a good selection of natural wines from various regions, including Bordeaux.
Vintro Vin: A Danish online shop specializing in natural wines from various countries. They often carry a variety of the different cuvées.