Maranges' Original Naturalists
Isabelle and Jean-Yves Vantey met in the hills of Valais, Switzerland in the early 1990s. She is Swiss; he was working in a ski resort. Their shared love of wine led them to Burgundy, where in 1996 they bought a farmholding in Sampigny-lès-Maranges — one of Burgundy's youngest and most tucked-away appellations. In 1998, they produced their first vintage from just one hectare of vines. They named the domaine after the red-tailed birds (rouges queues — black redstarts) that circled them while they restored the old farm buildings. Neither was born into winemaking. Jean-Yves studied at the Beaune winemaking school simply because he loved the idea. They started conventionally, with herbicides and pesticides. But by 2002, with two small children and the chemical smell of sprays lingering in their home, they knew they could not continue. They joined Dominique Derain's biodynamic study group in Saint-Aubin, converted to organic farming in 2003–04, and made the full transition to biodynamics in 2008. Today they farm 5.46 hectares across 15 plots in 12 appellations — including Premier Crus La Fussière and En Buliet — with some vines dating back to 1934. Their wines are pure, fresh, and deeply terroir-driven: reds of lovely fruit and lift, whites of citrus and minerality, all made with indigenous yeast, minimal sulfur, and an almost stubborn gentleness in the cellar. "We've always done it the simplest way possible, without intervention," Isabelle says. "In doing so, we realised that the terroir of Maranges tends to produce wines which have quite a tannic structure; wines that shouldn't be extracted or moved around too much."
The Smell That Changed Everything
Isabelle and Jean-Yves Vantey were never supposed to be winemakers. They met in the early 1990s in the hills of Valais, Switzerland — she is Swiss, he was working in a ski resort. Their shared passion for wine led them to Burgundy, where in 1996 they bought a farmholding in Sampigny-lès-Maranges, one of the Côte de Beaune's southernmost and most isolated villages. In 1998, they produced their first vintage from just one hectare of Pinot Noir in the lieu-dit of En Buliet. The name came naturally: while renovating the old farm buildings, red-tailed birds — rouges queues, or black redstarts — circled above them. Domaine des Rouges-Queues was born [^69^][^76^].
Neither was born into the trade. Jean-Yves studied viticulture and oenology at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune simply because he loved the idea of making wine. After moving to Burgundy, he got a job at another winery, using the knowledge he gathered there to farm their modest parcel. They worked conventionally — herbicides, pesticides, tractor ploughing — like most people did then. But by 2002, with two small children at home, they reached a breaking point. "Jean-Yves was working in a conventional winery, and so he did a lot of work by tractor," Isabelle recalls. "When he would come back home in the evening after having spent the day in the vineyard, the chemical smell of the sprays would linger everywhere in the house. What's more, we were afraid that the smell was just the tip of the iceberg. There was no way it could continue" [^69^].
They began looking for something cleaner and more logical. In Maranges, they were somewhat isolated in their thinking — but they had crossed paths with Dominique Derain in Saint-Aubin, who became a friend and mentor. Derain had founded a biodynamic study group, which the Vanteys joined. Immediately, they felt at ease. "What we particularly like about working in the biodynamic way is the exchanges with the other winemakers, and knowing that we were supported by them," Isabelle says. They converted to organic farming in 2003–04 and made the full transition to biodynamics in 2008, applying for certification that same year. It became a way to connect with the land on a more personal level — and to remove the chemical smell from their home [^69^][^67^].
"We had the vineyard, and we had a cellar to make wine in, but there was absolutely nothing else there. There were no tools, no roof, absolutely nothing at all. With that in mind, we really did start from scratch."
— Isabelle Vantey
Maranges, Santenay & Hautes-Côtes
Domaine des Rouges-Queues' 5.46 hectares are spread across 15 plots in 12 appellations — a mosaic of Burgundian terroir that spans the southern Côte de Beaune and beyond. The original parcel, En Buliet in Maranges, was planted in 1934 and remains the spiritual heart of the domaine. Over the years, they have added parcels in Maranges Premier Cru La Fussière (vines from 1960 and 1973), Maranges Blanc, Santenay, Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge and Blanc, Bourgogne Rouge, Bourgogne Blanc, and Bourgogne Aligoté. Each plot has its own management plan, depending on the wine's profile [^69^][^67^].
The soils are classic Burgundian Jurassic clay and limestone — but Isabelle explains that the terroir here tends to be more layered, "like a millefeuille cake," which gives the wines something a little edgier or rustic. Geographically, each parcel differs: some sit on steep hillsides with hairpin roads and tiny bridges; others lie on flatter plateaus. The Maranges appellation, granted AOC status in 1989, is the youngest in Burgundy. It is tucked away and rather isolated compared to the main highway of Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and Meursault. There are more trees here, and everything is a little wilder; it's less of a monoculture than its neighbouring appellations [^69^][^76^].
Farming is meticulous and deeply biodynamic. Soil work is very gentle to disturb microbial life as little as possible. Weeding is done by hand, and in springtime the Premier Crus and village wines are ploughed by horse — not tractor — to avoid compacting the soil. The horse belongs to a friend; since their first encounter with Derain and his group, the Vanteys have grown a community of like-minded winemakers and farmers. At harvest, they welcome friends from near and far: a team of twelve pickers and two "porteurs" (the duo who empties everybody's buckets). Every morning they break for the typical "casse croute" of pastries, cheese, saucisson, coffee, and of course — wine. "All of the energy from picking the grapes and carrying the buckets translates into the wine," Isabelle says. "And when we prune in the winter, we're sure we can still feel that energy amongst the vines" [^69^].
The original parcel, planted in 1934 — the domaine's oldest vines. A lieu-dit that has become synonymous with the Vanteys' name. 90-year-old Pinot Noir vines on Jurassic clay-limestone, farmed biodynamically since 2008. Whole-cluster fermentation, gentle extraction, aged 11–12 months in used barrels. The wine that started it all — pure, structured, and alive with history.
One of Maranges' seven Premier Crus. Vines planted in 1960 and 1973 — an average age of over 50 years. Ploughed by horse in spring to preserve soil structure. Whole-cluster maceration in open oak vats with pump-overs and punch-downs. 10–15 days of skin contact. Aged 11–12 months in used barrels. A wine of real depth, complexity, and the concentration that only old vines can provide. The domaine's flagship red.
From a parcel planted in 1961 — 60-year-old Chardonnay vines on the plateau above the Côte de Beaune. Whole-bunch pressed, fermented with indigenous yeast, aged 10–12 months in used barrels. Citrus, pear, and striking minerality. A white that showcases the freshness and elevation of the Hautes-Côtes, with the depth that only ancient vines can deliver. 12.5% ABV.
From vines planted in 1972 — over 50 years old. A rarity: old-vine Aligoté farmed biodynamically and aged in tank on the lees to preserve freshness. Crisp acidity, green apple, and a herbal complexity that makes it perfect as an aperitif or with oysters. Proof that Aligoté deserves far more attention when given Burgundian terroir and careful handling. The only white aged in tank rather than barrel.
Gentle Extraction, Indigenous Yeast, Minimal Sulfur
Isabelle and Jean-Yves' cellar work is defined by an almost stubborn gentleness. "We've always done it the simplest way possible, without intervention," Isabelle explains. "As Jean-Yves was away working, we'd leave the wines to themselves. In doing so, we realised that the terroir of Maranges tends to produce wines which have quite a tannic structure; wines that shouldn't be extracted or moved around too much. So, we continued in the same way." This hands-off approach was born not from ideology but from necessity — and it turned out to be the perfect match for their terroir [^69^].
Everything is hand-harvested and ferments naturally with indigenous yeast. The Pinots and Gamay are foot-stomped to release some juice, then macerated for 10–15 days with between 50% and 100% whole bunches, depending on the vintage. "In cooler years we might destem a bit more, but in warmer years, like 2018, which was very complicated, we feel that the stems help to give freshness," Isabelle notes. Pump-overs are carried out only when necessary to keep the ferment healthy, ensuring minimal extraction. After fermentation, the wines are aged for 11–12 months in used Burgundian barrels. The Aligoté is the exception — it is aged in tank on the lees to preserve its characteristic freshness [^69^][^67^].
Sulfites are added only before bottling — and then, only minimally. The goal is just enough to preserve the natural fruit and terroir complexity brought from a healthy harvest of ripe grapes. No fining, no filtration. The result is wine that feels alive in the glass: reds with excellent quality of fruit, lovely freshness, and the ability to age incredibly well; whites with purity, lift, and a true sense of terroir. "These wines showcase purity and lift, all while maintaining a true sense of terroir," as one importer noted. "Quantities are fairly limited here vintage to vintage so grab some while you can" [^67^][^68^].
The 2016 Hail Devastation
In 2016, Burgundy was hit by successive waves of hail and ice that destroyed crops across the region. For Domaine des Rouges-Queues, the damage was catastrophic. The domaine normally produces around 180 hectolitres of wine per year — but in 2016, after the hail and frost, production plummeted to just 60 hectolitres, a third of the normal volume. The Vanteys were forced to restrict sales to existing accounts only and could not receive members of the public at the winery because they simply had no wine to sell. It was a devastating blow for a small domaine that relies on every bottle. But they weathered it — as they have weathered every challenge — with humour, community, and an unwavering commitment to their vines. By 2017, they were back, and the wines were better than ever. "Harvest is always such a special time for us — even if it's difficult and long," Isabelle says. The resilience of the Vanteys is matched only by the resilience of their vines.
Community & Conviviality
Domaine des Rouges-Queues has carved out a unique place in Burgundy's natural wine scene. They are not merely winemakers; they are community builders, mentors, and hosts. Their biodynamic study group — founded with Dominique Derain and a network of 15 like-minded growers ranging from the Loire to Chablis to the Jura — has become a form of support network that sustains them and others. "What we particularly like about working in the biodynamic way is the exchanges with the other winemakers, and knowing that we were supported by them," Isabelle says. This spirit of collaboration is rare in a region often defined by competition and secrecy [^69^][^76^].
What sets the Vanteys apart is their combination of rigorous biodynamic practice and warm, unpretentious hospitality. Their harvest mornings are legendary — the "casse croute" of pastries, cheese, saucisson, coffee, and wine is not a marketing gimmick but a genuine expression of their values. They make light-hearted videos during harvest. They have a sense of humour that permeates everything they do. Isabelle calls her iPhone her "iStone." They keep a little bright pink book called "Le Petit Livre des Filles" — "The Little Book for Girls" — full of comical tips for teenage girls, tucked away under the rafters in the cellar. They lent it to a visiting journalist who was "dutifully studying" how to eat spaghetti like an Italian [^76^].
Their wines are allocated to natural wine markets in France, the US, the UK, and beyond. Chambers Street Wines in New York calls them "the dynamic duo behind Domaine des Rouges-Queues," noting that their "practice of organic and biodynamic farming along with gentle vinification lets the wines shine through." Newcomer Wines in the UK says it "took us a while to search and find the right Burgundy producer to open that part of the portfolio... For us, Isabelle and Jean-Yves were those people, and were a no-brainer to get the ball rolling with Burgundy for us." The wines are not the easiest to find — quantities are limited vintage to vintage — but they are worth the hunt. As one retailer put it: "These wines have excellent quality of fruit, with lovely freshness and they show their age incredibly well" [^67^][^88^].
"We would go more often to visit the vines — not necessarily to work, but just to go and spend time with them, and to do something for them. And for ourselves too! It really did us a world of good; for our own health as well as that of the vines."
— Isabelle Vantey
The Rouges-Queues Range
All wines are made from organically and biodynamically farmed estate fruit, hand-harvested by a team of 12 pickers and 2 porteurs. Indigenous yeast fermentation in stainless steel and open-top wood fermenters. Reds are partially de-stemmed (50–100% whole cluster depending on vintage), foot-stomped, macerated 10–15 days with gentle pump-overs. Whites are whole-bunch pressed. Aged 11–12 months in used 228L Burgundian barrels (Aligoté aged in tank on lees). Minimal sulfur added only before bottling. No fining, no filtration. Production is limited — quantities vary vintage to vintage [^69^][^67^].