Liguria Natural Wine Guide

Cinque Terre Terraces & Slate-Soil Pigato | Heroic Viticulture & Mediterranean Reds

Liguria Natural Wine Guide: Cinque Terre Terraces & Slate-Soil Pigato | Heroic Viticulture & Mediterranean Reds

1,500 Hectares Under Vine

9 DOCs

2,000 Years of Viticulture

60° Terrace Incline

Heroic Viticulture & Maritime Extremes

When machine harvesting is impossible and the sea provides the only flat land

Liguria—Italy's narrow coastal crescent wedged between the Alps and the Tyrrhenian Sea—is its smallest wine region by volume but its most extreme by topography. This is the land of the "heroic vineyard" (viticoltura eroica), where vines cling to cliffs at 60-degree angles, terraces are hand-built from dry stone, and every grape must be carried down on the shoulders of pickers or via monorail cable cars. There are no tractors, no mechanization, and no room for error.

This guide explores the natural wine pocket of the Italian Riviera—where schist soils and maritime influence create wines of crystalline salinity and alpine freshness. Bisson (Valter Bisson, Albenga) is the region's natural wine pioneer, proving that Pigato (local Vermentino) can express slate minerality with zero sulfur. Rossese di Dolceacqua (the village and wine) is Liguria's noble red—light, strawberry-scented, grown on steep terraces above the Nervia river. In the Cinque Terre, Bio Vio and Possa preserve the nearly extinct alberello (bush vine) terraces that UNESCO protects.

What distinguishes Ligurian natural wine is extreme terroir necessity—the steepness and isolation that protected these vineyards from industrialization also preserved ancient farming. It is defined by maritime climate—sea breezes moderate the Mediterranean sun, creating wines of surprising acidity and freshness despite the latitude. And it is characterized by slate and schist soils—the grey-blue stone of Ponente gives saline, mineral, almost smoky characters to whites (Pigato) and reds (Rossese) that evoke Burgundy more than Tuscany.

Key Facts

Location: Northwest Italy, French border to Tuscany
History: Roman "Lunae," Maritime Republic of Genoa
Key Regions: Riviera di Ponente, Cinque Terre, Tigullio
Main Grapes: Pigato, Vermentino, Rossese, Ciliegiolo
Method: Hand harvesting, dry stone terraces, alberello
Style: Mineral whites, light reds, high acid
Notable: Smallest production region in Italy

From Roman Lunae to Cinque Terre UNESCO

Maritime trade, agricultural abandonment, and the terrace revival

2nd Century BC

The Romans & Lunae

Roman writers (Pliny the Elder, Livy) describe "Lunae" wines from the Luni area (modern Liguria/Tuscany border) as among Italy's finest, shipped across the empire. The Greeks (who preceded Romans) established vineyards on Isola Palmaria (near Portovenere). The dry-stone terracing technique (muretti a secco) begins—walls built without mortar to hold soil on cliffs. The "Alberello" (bush vine) training develops to maximize sun exposure and resist wind.

1000-1500s

The Maritime Republic

The Republic of Genoa dominates Mediterranean trade. Ligurian wines supply Genoese ships and sailors (Columbus was from Genoa). The Cinque Terre (Five Lands) terraces are expanded to feed the maritime population—vineyards mixed with olive groves and citrus. The "Sciacchetrà" passito (dried grape wine) develops as a trade good. "Rossese" is mentioned in medieval documents as the wine of nobility (Dolceacqua castle).

1800s-1960s

Phylloxera & Abandonment

Phylloxera devastates the region (1880s). Replanting is difficult due to terrain. Post-WWII, industrialization and tourism lure farmers from the hills to Genoa and La Spezia. Many terraces collapse or revert to scrub. By 1960s, Cinque Terre is impoverished, vineyards abandoned. The "Ligurian Riviera" becomes synonymous with tourism (Portofino, Cinque Terre), not wine. Only the most inaccessible terraces survive.

1970s-1990s

The Bisson Revolution

Valter Bisson establishes his winery in Albenga (western Liguria), focusing on indigenous varieties (Pigato, Rossese) and organic farming at a time when the region was abandoning vines for tourism. He rejects chemicals, builds a modern cellar using gravity, and bottles with minimal sulfur. Other pioneers: Terra di Bargòn (Rossese), Bruna (Dolceacqua), Rollo (Cinque Terre). The movement is small but committed to terroir.

1997

UNESCO & Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre and Portovenere are designated UNESCO World Heritage sites, recognizing the "cultural landscape" of terraced agriculture. This brings attention but also challenges—tourism increases, young people still leave, and vineyard maintenance becomes heritage preservation rather than agriculture. The Cinque Terre DOC struggles to survive. Natural producers (Possa's "Sostio," Bio Vio) become crucial to keeping the terraces alive.

2010-Present

Heroic Renaissance

Recognition of "Heroic Viticulture" by agricultural organizations brings small subsidies for hand-farming. Young producers return to abandoned terraces, drawn by natural wine culture and the chance to farm land unavailable elsewhere in Italy. Testalonga (Antonio Perrino, imported by Kermit Lynch) gains cult status for Rossese. Punta Crena (Marcimarso family) preserves ancient vine varieties. The region remains tiny (1,500 hectares vs 50,000 in Tuscany), but the quality-to-area ratio is extraordinary.

"You don't choose to make wine in Liguria because it's easy. You choose it because you look at these terraces and these vines and you realize if you don't save them, no one will. The wine tastes like that effort—like salt and stone and stubbornness." — Valter Bisson, Bisson

Riviera di Ponente & Cinque Terre

Slate cliffs, limestone marls, and maritime influence

⛰️ Riviera di Ponente (West)

The "Coast of the Setting Sun" from Genoa to the French border. Albenga is the wine capital—flat alluvial plains (avoided by natural producers) and steep slate hills (prized). The Pigato grape (biotype of Vermentino adapted to Liguria) dominates, with Rossese reds. Soils are slate/schist (grey-blue stone) with quartz veins, giving wines a distinct mineral, almost gunflint character. The climate is Mediterranean with Alpine influences from the nearby Ligurian Alps. Valter Bisson, Terra di Bargòn, and Bruna farm here.

🌊 Cinque Terre (Center)

Five villages (Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore) connected by terraced cliffs. The soil is sandy limestone and flysch (layered sedimentary rock), extremely poor in organic matter. Vines are trained as alberello (bush vines) on narrow terraces held by dry-stone walls. The "heroes" here are the farmers who maintain these UNESCO terraces. Bosco (white), Albarola, and Vermentino make the "Cinque Terre DOC" (crisp, saline). "Sciacchetrà" is the passito (dried grape dessert wine). Bio Vio and Possa are the natural producers keeping tradition alive.

🍇 Rossese di Dolceacqua

The Nervia Valley inland from Ventimiglia (French border). The village of Dolceacqua (painted by Monet) sits beneath a castle, surrounded by south-facing terraces of Rossese (red grape). The soil is calcareous marl with slate, similar to Piedmont's Tortonian soils. The microclimate is warm but ventilated, protected from north winds by mountains. Rossese here makes light, strawberry-scented, high-acid reds of surprising elegance—compared to Schiava or light Burgundy. Bruna and Testalonga farm these steep slopes.

⚓ Golfo del Tigullio

The Portofino peninsula and surrounding hills (east of Genoa). Less known for wine (more tourism), but some vineyard pockets survive. The Ciliegiolo grape (light, cherry-scented red) and Vermentino are grown on terraces above the wealthy coastal towns. Bio Vio has vineyards here as well as Cinque Terre. The terroir is limestone with clay, less slate-driven than Ponente.

🏔️ Colli di Luni (Eastern Edge)

Technically straddling Liguria and Tuscany (Lunigiana area), this is the easternmost Ligurian zone. Vermentino is the star, grown on sandstone and limestone hills. Some natural production, though often grouped with Tuscan wines. The "Terre di Briganti" (Bandit Lands) character—remote, rugged, independent.

🪨 Slate and Schist

The defining terroir element of western Liguria. The slate (ardesia) and schist soils give the wines their signature minerality—salt, stone, and a smoky reduction that natural winemakers preserve rather than correct. Pigato especially expresses this—when grown on slate (as opposed to the alluvial plains), it develops petrol notes and saline length similar to Riesling or Chablis.

Regional Natural Wine Character

Zone	Soil	Grapes	Natural Wine Character
Albenga (Ponente)	Slate, schist, quartz	Pigato, Rossese	Saline, smoky, mineral
Cinque Terre	Flysch, limestone, sand	Bosco, Albarola	Crisp, sea-spray, acidic
Dolceacqua	Calcareous marl, slate	Rossese	Strawberry, herbal, light
Tigullio	Limestone, clay	Ciliegiolo, Vermentino	Cherry, herbal, medium
Colli di Luni	Sandstone, limestone	Vermentino	Citrus, almond, fresh

The Featured Producers

Schist specialists and terrace heroes

Riviera di Ponente – The Slate Masters

Bisson

Albenga, Savona

Valter Bisson is Liguria's natural wine patriarch. Since 1978, he has championed indigenous varieties and organic farming when the region was abandoning vines for tourism. "Pigato" is his masterpiece—grown on steep slate slopes above Albenga, fermented with native yeast in steel, bottled with minimal sulfur. The wine shows petrol, saline, and stone notes that rival Chablis. Also makes "Rossese" (light, strawberry) and "Ciliegiolo" (cherry, fresh). The cellar uses gravity (no pumps) to preserve the delicate aromatics. A purist who believes Ligurian wine must taste of the sea and stone.

Pigato Pioneer Gravity Fed Slate Minimal Sulfur

Terra di Bargòn

Camporosso, Imperia

Small estate (5 hectares) focused on Rossese and Pigato from steep, terraced vineyards near the French border. Organic farming, hand-harvesting only, native fermentation. "Rossese di Camporosso" is the flagship—light ruby color, wild strawberry, rose petal, and the characteristic Ligurian herbs (marjoram, thyme). The "Pigato" is aged on lees in steel, developing texture and salinity. Family-run, traditional, representing the authentic village-level production that defined Liguria before industrialization.

Rossese Focus Border Terroir Family Estate Traditional

Bruna

Dolceacqua, Imperia

The Bruna family has made wine in Dolceacqua for generations, but Riccardo Bruna modernized the cellar while maintaining traditional farming. Organic, low-sulfur, focused on the Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC. "Le Russeghine" is their top Rossese—single vineyard, old vines (60+ years), aged in large neutral oak. The wine is ethereal, pale, with haunting aromas of rose, strawberry, and wild herbs. Also makes Pigato "U Baccan" and a rare Granaccia (Grenache). Represents the polished, terroir-driven side of Ligurian natural wine.

Dolceacqua Old Vines Elegant Neutral Oak

Dolceacqua & The Reds – Light & Alpine

Testalonga

Dolceacqua, Imperia

Antonio Perrino (now retired, succeeded by daughters) created a cult following for his Rossese, imported to the US by Kermit Lynch. The name "Testalonga" means "long head" (referring to the local hat or the hill shape). Extreme farming—terraces so steep they require rope climbing. Organic, natural yeast, no temperature control, minimal sulfur. The Rossese is pale, translucent, with notes of wild strawberry, blood orange, and pine forest. Also makes a small amount of Pigato and Granaccia. Very limited production—allocated to restaurants and select retailers.

Cult Status Kermit Lynch Rope Climbing Limited

Danila Pisano

Dolceacqua, Imperia

Young female winemaker (next generation) working organically in Dolceacqua. Focuses on Rossese and Pignolo (rare local red), with tiny production (2,000 bottles total). The "Rossese" is wild-fermented, aged in concrete, bottled unfiltered. Represents the new generation keeping Dolceacqua alive as older farmers retire. The style is crunchy, fresh, with whole-cluster spice.

Next Gen Female Concrete Micro Production

Azienda Agricola Fulvia

Castelbianco, Savona

High in the Val Pennavaire (interior hills), away from the coast. Organic farming of Ormeasco (Dolcetto by another name, locally called) and Pignolo. The altitude (500m) gives wines of surprising freshness and structure. "Ormeasco" is darker than Rossese, with black cherry and herbs. Represents the inland, mountain side of Ligurian wine—less maritime influence, more Alpine.

Inland High Altitude Ormeasco Mountain

Cinque Terre – The Terrace Guardians

Bio Vio

Cinque Terre (Monterosso/Levanto)

The Moggia family has farmed in Cinque Terre for five generations; Pier Paolo converted to organic/biodynamic in the 1990s. They maintain 5 hectares of impossible terraces, accessible only by foot or monorail. "Cinque Terre DOC" is the white—Bosco, Albarola, Vermentino—fermented in steel, aged on lees, saline and crisp. "Sciacchetrà" (the passito) is made traditionally—grapes dried on racks, fermented with native yeast, aged in small barrels. The only commercial-quality natural producer keeping the Cinque Terre wine tradition alive.

Cinque Terre Biodynamic Sciacchetrà Terraces

Possa's

Manarola, Cinque Terre

Samuele Heydi Bonanini is a young winemaker (born 1990) who returned to his family's terraces in Manarola after studying enology. Extremely small production (1,000 bottles), organic, zero sulfur, amphora-aged. "Sostio" is his main white—field blend of Bosco, Albarola, Vermentino, fermented and aged in buried clay amphorae (tinaja). "Bosco" is the red (not white)—from the rare red mutation of the Bosco grape. Experimental, artisanal, representing the desperate fight to keep Cinque Terre viticulture from becoming a museum piece.

Young Guard Amphora Zero Sulfur Manarola

Buranco

Monterosso, Cinque Terre

Agriturismo and winery above Monterosso, maintaining historic terraces with a mix of tourism and serious winemaking. Organic farming, traditional methods. The "Bianco" is Cinque Terre DOC, while the "Sciacchetrà" follows tradition. Less "natural" in the extreme sense (some sulfur used), but crucial for the economic viability of Cinque Terre wine—proving that tourism and quality viticulture can coexist. The setting (ancient terraces with sea views) is spectacular.

Agriturismo Tourism Monterosso Sustainable

"In Cinque Terre, you don't inherit vineyards from your parents. You borrow them from your children. If you don't maintain the dry-stone walls, they collapse in one winter. This wine costs what it costs because every bottle requires hours of stone-lifting, ladder-climbing, and shoulder-carrying." — Pier Paolo Moggia, Bio Vio

The Grapes of Liguria

Slate-expressed whites and alpine-light reds

Indigenous White • The Slate Expresser

Pigato

Genetically identical to Vermentino (and Favorita in Piedmont), but Pigato is considered a distinct biotype adapted to Ligurian slate soils. The name may derive from "pighe" (spots) on the ripe grapes. When grown on schist (as opposed to alluvial plains), it develops distinct petrol notes, smoky reduction, and saline minerality unlike any other Italian white. Naturally high in acidity and phenolics, making it ideal for skin-contact and extended lees aging. Flavors: lemon peel, petrol, sea salt, crushed stone, white peach. Aged versions develop honey and almond notes.

Style: Mineral, saline, petrol, high acid
Natural Wine Role: Skin contact, lees aging, no oak
Top Producers: Bisson, Bruna, Testalonga
Regions: Albenga, Ponente coast
Notable: Same DNA as Vermentino but distinct expression

Indigenous Red • The Ligurian Pinot

Rossese

Liguria's noble red—light in color (ruby-pale), high in acidity, moderate tannin, intensely aromatic. DNA suggests origins in Provence (Tibouren), brought by ancient maritime trade. Makes wines of wild strawberry, rose petal, blood orange, pine forest, and wild herbs (maquis). Extremely site-sensitive—when grown on limestone/marl (Dolceacqua), it achieves elegance comparable to Burgundy; on sandy soils, it becomes rustic. Natural winemakers use whole-cluster fermentation to emphasize the herbal/spicy character. Best served cool (15°C) like a dark rosé.

Style: Light, aromatic, high acid, pale
Natural Wine Role: Whole cluster, cool fermentation
Top Producers: Bruna, Testalonga, Terra di Bargòn
Regions: Dolceacqua, Camporosso
Notable: Related to Provence's Tibouren

Indigenous White • The Cinque Terre Trio

Bosco

The primary grape of Cinque Terre DOC (minimum 40%), typically blended with Albarola and Vermentino. Bosco is neutral but structured—providing body and alcohol (can reach 14% naturally). On its own, it shows apple, pear, and almond. The "Red Bosco" (Bosco Rosso) is a rare color mutation that Possa uses for a unique red wine. Natural producers use extended lees contact to add texture to Bosco's neutral character. The grape is sturdy—resistant to the strong winds and salt spray of the Cinque Terre coast.

Style: Neutral, structured, high alcohol
Natural Wine Role: Lees aging, blending base
Top Producers: Bio Vio, Possa
Regions: Cinque Terre only
Notable: Red mutation exists (rare)

More Ligurian Varieties

The coastal and mountain grapes

Albarola: White grape from Cinque Terre, acidic, herbal, often blended with Bosco. Delicate, prone to oxidation, requiring careful handling.

Ciliegiolo: "Little cherry"—light red grown in Tigullio and Ponente. Fresh, fruity, chillable. Bisson makes a benchmark example.

Granaccia: Local name for Grenache (Spanish influence via maritime trade). Grown near French border, makes medium-bodied spicy reds. Bruna and Testalonga produce it.

Ormeasco: Local Dolcetto grown in high valleys (Valle Arroscia, Val Pennavaire). Dark, tannic, rustic mountain wine.

Pignolo: Rare red from Dolceacqua area, unrelated to Friuli's Pignolo. Light, fruity, almost extinct.

Vermentino: Same as Pigato genetically, but usually refers to the Colli di Luni (eastern) style or Cinque Terre blends—more citrus, less petrol than slate-grown Pigato.

Food Pairing & Ligurian Cuisine

Pesto, focaccia, and the Mediterranean diet

For Pigato & Slate Whites

Mineral wines meet seafood

Acciughe: Fresh anchovies (marinated or fried)
Focaccia di Recco: Cheese-filled thin bread
Cappon magro: Seafood and vegetable salad
Stoccafisso: Stockfish (dried cod) brandacujun
Oily fish: Mackerel, sardines grilled

For Rossese & Light Reds

Alpine-Mediterranean reds meet pasta

Trofie al pesto: Hand-rolled pasta with basil
Pansoti: Ravioli with wild herbs (preboggion)
Coniglio: Rabbit Ligurian style (olives, pine nuts)
Farro soup: Spelt with beans
Cima: Stuffed veal breast (Genoa specialty)

For Cinque Terre Bosco/Albarola

High acid meets coastal cuisine

Fried seafood: Calamari, baby octopus
Sciacchetrà: With cantucci or cheese
Ligurian olives: Taggiasca olives
Mussels: Impepata di cozze (peppered)
Tomato focaccia: Simple, perfect

For Sciacchetrà (Passito)

Sweet wine meets dessert

Pandolce: Genoese dried fruit cake
Amaretti: Almond cookies
Gorgonzola: Sweet wine classic
Dried figs: Stuffed with nuts
Panera: Coffee ice cream (semifreddo)

Ligurian Culinary Traditions

The birthplace of Mediterranean diet

Pesto Genovese: The sacred sauce—DOP basil from Pra, pine nuts, Parmigiano, Pecorino, garlic, olive oil. Never heated. Perfect with Rossese's herbal notes.

Focaccia: Born in Genoa—thin, oily, salty. Focaccia di Recco (cheese-filled) requires Pigato's acidity to cut the richness.

Farinata: Chickpea flour pancake baked in wood ovens. Street food with white wine.

Wild Herbs: Preboggion (mix of wild herbs) used in pansoti filling. The same herbs grow between vineyard rows, flavoring the wine.

Anchovies: The "bread of the sea"—Monterosso and Cinque Terre are famous for salted anchovies (acciughe sotto sale). Pair with Pigato.

Olive Oil: Taggiasca olives produce delicate, fruity oil. Essential for pesto and finishing dishes. Most wine producers also make oil.

Visiting Natural Liguria

From French border to Cinque Terre hiking trails

🇫🇷 Riviera di Ponente (West)

Base in Ventimiglia (French border) or Albenga. Bisson (Albenga—appointment, steep drive). Testalonga (Dolceacqua—walkable from village, but terraces require hiking). Bruna (Dolceacqua town). Terra di Bargòn (Camporosso—coastal hills). Combine with French Riviera (Menton, Nice—30 min), Sanremo (music festival town), and Bordighera (gardens). Best in spring (April-May—wildflowers) or September-October (harvest, less tourists).

🏛️ Cinque Terre

Base in Monterosso (flattest, has beach) or Levanto (outside park, cheaper). Bio Vio (above Monterosso—hike up or taxi). Possa (Manarola—contact ahead, very small). Hiking the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail) between villages reveals the terraces. Take the train between villages (frequent, essential—parking impossible). Stay overnight (day-trippers leave by 6 PM). Best in March-April or October (avoid July-August crowds and heat).

⚓ Golfo del Tigullio (East)

Base in Santa Margherita or Rapallo (less expensive than Portofino). Bio Vio also has vineyards here. Combine with Portofino (hike to lighthouse), Camogli (fishing village), and Genoa (aquarium, old port, food). The wine is less concentrated here—more of a culinary add-on to a Riviera vacation. Best spring or fall.

Liguria Natural Wine Travel Tips

Navigating the vertical vineyards

Transport: Train is essential—Liguria's coastal railway connects all wine towns (Ventimiglia to La Spezia). Car is useful for Ponente (west) but useless for Cinque Terre (no parking). Be prepared to hike—many wineries are only accessible on foot.

Timing: Harvest is early-mid September. Spring (April-May) sees the wild herb preboggion harvest and blooming terraces. Avoid August—French and Italian tourists crowd the coast, prices triple.

Footwear: Essential warning: Do not visit vineyards in sandals or city shoes. The terraces require sturdy hiking boots with grip (schist is slippery). Wineries may refuse tours to those inappropriately dressed—it's a safety issue.

Language: In Ponente (west), the Ligurian dialect is strong and French influence exists (many locals speak some French). In Cinque Terre, English is widely spoken due to tourism, but the wine producers appreciate Italian attempts.

French Connection: The western border (Ventimiglia) blends into France—consider combining with Nice, Menton, or the perched villages of Provence. The Rossese grape continues into France as Tibouren (try Clos Cibonne in Provence for comparison).

Accommodation: Stay in agriturismi (farm stays)—many wineries offer rooms. This supports the agricultural economy directly. In Cinque Terre, book 6 months ahead for spring/fall.

7-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Genoa: Arrive Genoa. Explore caruggi (alleyways), eat focaccia, visit port. Overnight Genoa.

Day 2 - Ponente West: Train to Albenga (1.5 hours). Bisson (tasting/lunch). Afternoon: Dolceacqua (Testalonga or Bruna). Overnight Dolceacqua (charming village) or Ventimiglia.

Day 3 - French Border: Morning: Terra di Bargòn or hike in Nervia Valley. Afternoon: Cross to Menton (France) for contrast, or visit Bordighera gardens. Overnight Ventimiglia.

Day 4 - Cinque Terre: Train to Monterosso (Cinque Terre). Hike Santuario della Madonna di Soviore (high above). Bio Vio (appointment). Overnight Monterosso.

Day 5 - The Hike: Hike Sentiero Azzurro (Monterosso to Vernazza to Corniglia—stop for lunch). Continue to Manarola. Possa (if arranged). Overnight Manarola or Riomaggiore.

Day 6 - Portofino: Train to Santa Margherita. Hike to Portofino (2 hours, beautiful). Lunch in Portofino harbor. Afternoon: Relax or visit Camogli. Overnight Santa Margherita.

Day 7 - Departure: Return to Genoa airport or train to Milan (2 hours) or Pisa (1.5 hours).

Alternative: Add 2 days for Portovenere (Gulf of Poets) and Palmaria Island (ferry from Portovenere), or extend into Provence (Nice, Vence).