Loire Valley Natural Wine Guide: The Kingdom of Chenin | Biodynamic Pioneers & Zero-Zero Revolution

The Garden of France

Loire Valley

From the schist slopes of Anjou to the limestone caves of Vouvray, discover the world's most dynamic natural wine region—where biodynamic pioneers, zero-zero revolutionaries, and Chenin Blanc masters are rewriting the rules of French wine

Chenin Blanc Cabernet Franc Biodynamic Zero-Zero Anjou

70,000 Hectares

87 Appellations

30% Organic/Bio

1984 First Biodynamic

The Natural Wine Capital

Where the revolution began and continues to evolve

The Loire Valley is France's—and arguably the world's—natural wine capital. While other regions debate the merits of organic farming, the Loire has been the beating heart of the natural wine movement since the 1980s. Here, biodynamic viticulture isn't a marketing trend but a way of life, practiced by pioneers like Nicolas Joly at Coulée de Serrant (certified biodynamic since 1984) and Mark Angeli at Ferme de la Sansonnière. The region's diverse terroirs—schist, limestone, sand, and volcanic rocks—provide the perfect canvas for minimal-intervention winemaking.

What makes the Loire unique is the concentration of producers working without added sulfur, with native yeasts, and with absolute respect for their terroir. In Anjou Noir (Black Anjou), named for its dark slate and volcanic soils, you'll find the highest density of natural wine producers in France. The Layon River and its tributaries create microclimates where Chenin Blanc achieves transcendent expression—whether in the electric, dry whites of Richard Leroy or the profound, long-lived wines of Domaine Huet.

This guide focuses exclusively on the natural wine producers who have made the Loire legendary: from the Puzelat brothers at Clos du Tue-Boeuf (natural wine icons since the 1990s) to Domaine Mosse with their cult pét-nats, from the volcanic sulfur experiments of Mark Angeli to the "vins de soif" of Les Vignes de Babass. These are winemakers who prioritize life in the soil over points in the press, who bottle wine that tastes of its place rather than a laboratory, and who have inspired a global movement.

Key Facts

Location: Central France, Loire River valley
Size: 70,000+ hectares
Main Grapes: Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc
Climate: Maritime (west), Continental (east)
Soils: Schist, limestone, sand, volcanic
Key Movement: Biodynamic since 1984
Notable: Highest natural wine density in France

From Monks to Revolutionaries

1000 years of wine history, 40 years of natural wine revolution

1130

Cistercian Plantings

Monks plant the Coulée de Serrant vineyard in Savennières. King Louis XI later calls its wine "drops of gold." This 7-hectare walled vineyard remains a monopole to this day.

1928

Domaine Huet Founded

Gaston Huet establishes what will become Vouvray's most iconic estate. The domaine now spans three terroirs: Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont, and Clos du Bourg.

1984

The Biodynamic Revolution

Nicolas Joly converts Coulée de Serrant to biodynamics, becoming one of the first certified biodynamic estates in France. His book "Wine from Sky to Earth" becomes the movement's bible.

1990

Ferme de la Sansonnière

Mark Angeli purchases his estate in Anjou and immediately begins biodynamic farming. He becomes known for using volcanic sulfur from Mount Etna and horse-ploughing.

1993

Clos du Tue-Boeuf

The Puzelat brothers begin converting to organic viticulture. They become early champions of sans soufre winemaking and declassifying wines to Vin de France to escape AOC constraints.

1990s

The Gang of Four

Marcel Lapierre (Beaujolais), Guy Bossard (Muscadet), and others join Joly and Angeli in creating the natural wine movement. The Loire becomes the epicenter of zero-zero experimentation.

2000s

New Generation Arrives

Richard Leroy, Domaine Mosse, and Les Vignes de Babass establish themselves. The "Paris natural wine bar scene" explodes, creating demand for Loire's low-intervention wines.

Present

Global Influence

Loire natural winemakers mentor producers worldwide. The region attracts international talent—Japanese, Polish, English winemakers—drawn by affordable land and a supportive community.

"Biodynamic farming is the only way to catch the life force and the originality of a place and put it in a bottle. The more your place is alive, the more the secret acoustics will express themselves in your vines." — Nicolas Joly, Coulée de Serrant

Schist, Limestone & Volcanic Rock

The diverse terroirs that define natural Loire

⛰️ Anjou Noir

"Black Anjou" refers to the dark slate and volcanic soils (spilite, rhyolite) found around the Layon River. This is the heartland of natural wine—where Mark Angeli, Richard Leroy, and Domaine Mosse work. The soils give wines intense minerality and electric acidity.

🗻 Savennières

Just south of Angers, this small appellation on the Loire's north bank produces some of the world's most age-worthy Chenin Blanc. The schist and sandstone soils, combined with southern exposure, create wines of immense structure and longevity.

🌊 Vouvray

East of Tours, Vouvray's tuffeau (limestone) caves provide natural cellars for aging. Domaine Huet's three climats—Le Haut-Lieu (clay), Le Mont (limestone), and Clos du Bourg (thin soils)—showcase Chenin's ability to express terroir.

🏖️ Touraine

The "Garden of France" around the Cher and Loire rivers features diverse soils—sand, gravel, clay, and limestone. Thierry Puzelat works here with multiple varieties including Gamay, Pinot Noir, and the rare Menu Pineau.

🔥 Volcanic Soils

Unique in the Loire, the volcanic rocks of Anjou (spilite, altered basalt) provide distinctive terroir. Richard Leroy's Les Rouliers comes from these soils, giving his Chenin a smoky, flinty character impossible to replicate elsewhere.

💧 The Layon River

This tributary creates morning fogs perfect for botrytis (noble rot) in sweet wines, but also moderates temperature for dry wines. The river's influence is crucial to the microclimates of Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume.

Key Natural Wine Appellations

Appellation	Location	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Savennières	Anjou	Schist, sandstone	Age-worthy, mineral Chenin; Joly's wines require 10+ years
Coulée de Serrant	Savennières	Schist, volcanic	Monopole AOC; biodynamic since 1984; profound longevity
Anjou	Anjou Noir	Schist, slate, volcanic	Experimental zone; many Vin de France producers
Vouvray	Touraine	Tuffeau (limestone)	Chenin Blanc excellence; Huet's benchmark biodynamic wines
Cheverny	Touraine	Sand, clay, limestone	Puzelat's home; rare varieties like Menu Pineau
Jasnières	Coteaux du Loir	Tuffeau, clay	Northern outpost; Sébastien Cornille's natural Chenin

The Founding Fathers

The pioneers who started it all

The Biodynamic Icons

Nicolas Joly

Coulée de Serrant, Savennières

The godfather of biodynamic wine. Joly converted his family's 7-hectare monopole vineyard to biodynamics in 1984 after reading Rudolf Steiner. A former investment banker at J.P. Morgan, he became the movement's most eloquent spokesman. His wines—Coulée de Serrant, Clos de la Bergerie, and Les Vieux Clos—are divisive, profound, and require patience (4-5 years minimum). He picks late, embraces botrytis, and uses no temperature control. Now in his 80s, his daughter Virginie oversees winemaking. "True wine is not always good or attractive, but it has something inside that touches you."

Biodynamic Pioneer Since 1984 Monopole AOC

Mark Angeli

Ferme de la Sansonnière, Anjou

A former stonemason who purchased his 7.7-hectare estate in 1990 and immediately began biodynamic farming (certified 1994). Known for using volcanic sulfur from Mount Etna (Polish mine, Italian refinement) rather than petrochemical-derived sulfur, reducing his usage by 40%. Works with horses, maintains a polyculture with cows and bees, and uses gobelet (bush) pruning—rare in the Loire. His "La Lune" Chenin Blanc is iconic; "Les Gélinettes" (Grolleau Noir) is produced in only 900 bottles. Declassified all wines to Vin de France in 2007 to escape AOC yield restrictions (30 hl/ha vs. allowed 60 hl/ha).

Volcanic Sulfur Horse Ploughing Vin de France

Noël Pinguet

Domaine Huet, Vouvray

The winemaker who convinced Gaston Huet to convert to biodynamics in 1990 (certified 1993). Domaine Huet is Vouvray's most iconic estate, founded 1928, spanning three terroirs: Le Haut-Lieu (clay, generous wines), Le Mont (limestone, mineral), and Clos du Bourg (thin soils, powerful). Pinguet's legacy continues under Jean-Bernard Berthomé and now Benjamin Joliveau. The estate produces dry (Sec), off-dry (Demi-Sec), and sweet (Moelleux) Chenin Blancs of extraordinary purity. Hand-harvested, native yeast fermentation in 35-year-old demi-muids, minimal sulfur. The 2020 vintage is particularly sought-after.

Vouvray Icon 3 Terroirs Since 1990

The Natural Wine Icons

Thierry & Jean-Marie Puzelat

Clos du Tue-Boeuf, Cheverny

The Puzelat brothers are natural wine royalty. Their family estate dates to the 15th century in Les Montils (Cheverny AOC). Since the early 1990s, they've championed organic farming, native yeasts, and minimal sulfur. When the Cheverny AOC was created in 1993, they began declassifying wines to Vin de France to use "outlawed" varieties like Gamay and Pinot Noir. Thierry's "Le Buisson Pouilleux" (Sauvignon Blanc with 2-3 days skin contact) and "Vin Rouge" (Gamay/Pineau d'Aunis) are cult favorites. They work with 10+ grape varieties across 14 hectares, including rare Menu Pineau. Thierry's daughter Zoé now joins the winemaking.

OG Natural Multi-Varietal Vin de France Pioneers

Richard Leroy

Anjou (Rablay-sur-Layon)

A former Parisian banker who moved to the Loire to make sweet wines but discovered the region's potential for dry Chenin Blanc on volcanic soils. His two cuvées—Les Noëls de Montbenault and Le Clos des Rouliers—achieved cult status and defined modern Anjou. Works with old vines on rhyolite and spilite (altered basalt) soils, giving his wines distinctive smoky, flinty character. Subject of Étienne Davodeau's graphic novel "Les Ignorants." A mentor to many young producers, Leroy proved that Anjou could produce world-class dry whites. His wines are rare, allocated, and profoundly expressive of their volcanic terroir.

Chenin Master Volcanic Soils Cult Status

Agnès & René Mosse

Domaine Mosse, Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay

Since the late 1990s, the Mosse family has been based in "Anjou Noir," crafting natural wines from Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and the rare Pineau d'Aunis. Now run by sons Sylvestre and Joseph, the estate covers 12.8 hectares. Their "Moussamoussettes" pét-nat (Grolleau Gris, Cabernet Franc, Pineau d'Aunis) is a cult wine—pink, dry, with characteristic slight bitterness. "Bangarang" (Cabernet Franc/Grolleau/Pineau d'Aunis) and "Bisou" are sought-after light reds. They farm organically, use native yeasts, and avoid all additives. The "Les Bonnes Blanches" Chenin from 45-year-old vines on schist is a benchmark for the appellation.

Pét-Nat Pioneers Pineau d'Aunis 2nd Generation

"I looked all over France to figure out where I should settle. In Bordeaux it was very expensive, and already back then the climate in the south was very hot. We were fortunate to find a balance here in the Loire." — Mark Angeli, Ferme de la Sansonnière

The New Wave

Next generation natural winemakers

Rising Stars

Sébastien Dervieux (Babass)

Les Vignes de Babass, Beaulieu-sur-Layon

Formerly part of Domaine des Griottes with Pat Desplats, Babass established his own domaine in 2011 with 4 hectares of old-vine Cabernet Franc, Grolleau, and Chenin Blanc on clay, schist, and limestone. Now helped by partner Agnès, their wines sum up natural wine for many—wild but pure, compellingly drinkable. The "Grololo" (Grolleau) and "L'R de Babass" are cult favorites. Works without certification but follows organic practices. The wines are made with whole-cluster fermentation, native yeasts, and minimal sulfur. A legend in the natural wine bar scene.

Wild & Pure Old Vines Cult Favorite

Sébastien Cornille

Domaine de la Roche Bleue, Jasnières

A Sancerre native who founded his domaine in 2008 in the tiny Jasnières appellation (just 70 hectares total). Works 2.5 hectares in Jasnières and 3 hectares in Coteaux du Loir. Organic/biodynamic farming, native yeasts, minimal SO2. Produces thirst-quenching Chenin Blanc from single vineyards, as well as reds from Pineau d'Aunis and Gamay. The wines are precise, mineral, and reflect the cool climate and tuffeau soils. Represents the new generation finding value in overlooked appellations.

Jasnières Pioneer Cool Climate Single Vineyards

Mathieu Vallée

Château Yvonne, Saumur

Took over the 16th-century estate in 2007, converting 13 hectares to organic farming. Produces varietal Cabernet Francs ranging from light and fresh to structured and ageworthy, plus pure, expressive Chenin Blancs. The "Yvonne" cuvée is a benchmark for natural Saumur—biodynamic, native yeast, minimal sulfur. The estate has become a hub for the new natural wine community in Saumur, hosting young producers and fostering collaboration.

Saumur Leader Cabernet Franc Young Vignerons

The Bretons & Baudrys

Catherine & Pierre Breton

Bourgueil & Chinon

OG natural wine icons who began making single-vineyard cuvées in 1982. Just 6,700 cases annually across 20 small-batch wines, mostly Cabernet Franc with some Chenin, Sauvignon Blanc, and Grolleau. Certified organic since 1991, biodynamic for 25+ years. Their "Trinch!" (Bourgueil) is a benchmark for drinkable natural Cabernet Franc—fresh, peppery, low alcohol. The "Les Perrières" and "Le Clos Sénéchal" show the serious, age-worthy side. They work with multiple soil types (gravel, limestone, clay) to produce distinctly different expressions. Global ambassadors for natural wine.

OG Icons Cabernet Franc Masters Since 1982

Bernard & Matthieu Baudry

Chinon

Father-son duo farming 25 hectares in Chinon since 1975. All organic, native yeasts, vinified in cement. Matthieu joined in 2000 after working in Tasmania and California, bringing international perspective to this traditionalist estate. Their Cabernet Francs are considered among the region's best—"Les Grézeaux" (gravel) for elegance, "Le Clos Guillot" (limestone) for structure, "Les Croix Boissée" (clay) for power. They prove that natural wine can be classic, age-worthy, and terroir-transparent. A bridge between traditional Chinon and the natural wine movement.

Chinon Classic Father-Son Terroir Focus

Damien & Coralie Delecheneau

Domaine de la Grange Tiphaine, Touraine

Founded in the 19th century, Damien took over in 2002 with wife Coralie. They work 16 hectares in Touraine with Chenin Blanc, Côt (Malbec), Gamay, Cabernet Franc, and the rare Grolleau. Certified organic and biodynamic, producing red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines. Damien's talent shines through in beautifully balanced, elegant, precise wines—whether dry or sweet. "Rosa Rosé" (Grolleau/Gamay) and "Clef de Sol" (Chenin) are standout cuvées. They represent the new generation maintaining family traditions while embracing natural wine philosophy.

Multi-Generation Rare Varieties Biodynamic

The Grapes of Natural Loire

Chenin Blanc leads, Cabernet Franc follows, rare varieties thrive

White Variety • The Soul of the Loire

Chenin Blanc

The ultimate terroir grape—capable of expressing every nuance of soil and climate. In the Loire, it achieves its greatest expression: from the electric, mineral wines of Anjou to the honeyed, long-lived wines of Savennières.

Plantings: ~10,000 hectares in Loire
Style: Apple, honey, flint, quince, high acidity
Natural Wine Role: Expresses terroir without makeup
Top Producers: Joly, Huet, Angeli, Leroy, Mosse
Notable: Can be dry, off-dry, sweet, or sparkling

Red Variety • The Loire's Red Grape

Cabernet Franc

The parent of Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in the Loire's cool climate. Produces wines of perfume, pepper, and fresh red fruit—nothing like the heavy, oaky styles of Bordeaux. Perfect for natural winemaking.

Plantings: ~17,000 hectares
Style: Raspberry, violet, pepper, graphite
Natural Wine Role: Light, fresh, low alcohol
Top Producers: Breton, Baudry, Puzelat, Babass
Notable: Ages beautifully despite light body

Red Variety • The Secret Weapon

Pineau d'Aunis

An ancient, rare variety found almost exclusively in the Loire. Light in color, high in peppery spice, with a distinctive slight bitterness. The darling of natural winemakers for pét-nats and light reds.

Plantings: ~400 hectares (declining)
Style: White pepper, strawberry, herbs, bitter almond
Natural Wine Role: Pét-nats and glou-glou reds
Top Producers: Mosse, Puzelat, Grange Tiphaine
Notable: Makes the region's best pét-nat

The Supporting Cast

Other important varieties in natural Loire

Grolleau: The workhorse red grape of Anjou. Light, fruity, perfect for rosés and pét-nats. Babass and Mosse make iconic examples. Available as Grolleau Noir, Gris, and Blanc.

Gamay: Thrives in Touraine's sandy soils. Puzelat works with old vines to make serious, age-worthy examples. Also used in blends for freshness.

Sauvignon Blanc: Less common in natural wine circles due to its aromatic intensity, but Puzelat's skin-contact "Le Buisson Pouilleux" is a revelation.

Côt (Malbec): The "black wine" of the Loire. Grange Tiphaine and Breton produce structured, dark examples from old vines.

Food Pairing & Gastronomy

Natural Loire meets the cuisine of the Garden of France

Pairings for Chenin Blanc

Mineral, high acid, versatile

Fresh Chenin: Goat cheese (Crottin de Chavignol), oysters, sushi
Aged Chenin: Roast pork with apples, lobster, truffle dishes
Sweet Chenin: Foie gras, blue cheese (Roquefort), tarte tatin
Pét-Nat: Charcuterie, fried chicken, popcorn
Local Match: Rillettes de Tours, freshwater fish from the Loire

Pairings for Cabernet Franc & Light Reds

Peppery, fresh, low tannin

Chillable Reds: Grilled sausages, roast chicken, lentil salads
Serious Chinon: Game birds, beef bourguignon, aged cheeses
Pineau d'Aunis: Asian spices, char siu pork, Korean fried chicken
Grolleau: Pizza, burgers, casual weeknight drinking
Local Match: Andouillette (tripe sausage), rillons (pork belly)

Loire Gastronomy

The food that shaped these wines

The Loire is the "Garden of France," and its cuisine matches its wines—fresh, seasonal, and unfussy. Sainte-Maure de Touraine (ash-covered goat cheese) is the classic pairing for Sauvignon Blanc and young Chenin. Rillettes de Tours (pork rillettes) and rillons (caramelized pork belly) demand Cabernet Franc. The region's freshwater fish—zander, pike, and eel—are prepared simply with beurre blanc (butter sauce). For sweet wines, tarte tatin (upside-down apple tart) was invented here. Natural wines, with their purity and lack of heavy oak, pair beautifully with this honest, ingredient-driven cuisine.

Visiting Natural Loire

From the schist slopes of Anjou to the limestone caves of Vouvray

🍇 Angers & Anjou Noir

The epicenter of natural wine. Visit Mark Angeli (by appointment) to see horse-ploughing and volcanic sulfur experiments. Richard Leroy is nearby in Rablay-sur-Layon. Domaine Mosse offers tastings of their cult pét-nats. Stay in Angers, a vibrant university town with excellent natural wine bars like La Maison dans la Rue.

⛰️ Savennières & Rochefort

Visit Nicolas Joly at Coulée de Serrant (book well ahead) to see the 12th-century walled vineyard and taste wines from the "high priest" of biodynamics. Château Yvonne in nearby Parnay offers a more accessible entry to Saumur natural wine. The area around the Loire river is stunning for cycling.

🌿 Vouvray & Touraine

Domaine Huet is essential for understanding Chenin Blanc—taste the difference between Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont, and Clos du Bourg. Thierry Puzelat is nearby in Les Montils (appointment needed). The town of Tours offers the best base, with easy access to Chinon and Bourgueil for Breton and Baudry tastings.

5-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Angers: Arrive in Angers, explore the Château d'Angers. Dinner at Le Bouchon Angevin (natural wine bistro). Overnight in Angers.

Day 2 - Anjou Noir: Morning with Mark Angeli at Ferme de la Sansonnière (appointment essential). Lunch at the estate or nearby. Afternoon tasting with Domaine Mosse. Overnight in Angers.

Day 3 - Savennières: Drive to Savennières. Visit Nicolas Joly at Coulée de Serrant (book ahead). Lunch at La Table du Roy René. Afternoon with Château Yvonne in Parnay. Overnight in Angers or Saumur.

Day 4 - Vouvray: Drive to Vouvray (1 hour). Morning tasting at Domaine Huet. Lunch in Vouvray village. Afternoon drive to Les Montils to visit Thierry Puzelat at Clos du Tue-Boeuf. Overnight in Tours.

Day 5 - Chinon & Bourgueil: Morning with Bernard & Matthieu Baudry in Chinon. Lunch in Chinon town. Afternoon with Catherine & Pierre Breton in Bourgueil. Return to Tours or Paris.