Lombardy

From the granite terraces of Valtellina to the glacial moraines of Franciacorta, discover Lombardy's natural wine frontier—where Alpine Nebbiolo meets ancestral method Lambrusco and Timorasso challenges conventional whites

Lombardy Natural Wine Guide: Alpine Nebbiolo & Metodo Classico Resistance | Valtellina, Franciacorta & Oltrepò

30k Hectares Under Vine

5 DOCGs

2,500 Years of Alpine Viticulture

1961 First Franciacorta

Resistance in the Industrial North

When Alpine tradition meets natural innovation

Lombardy—Italy's financial and industrial engine—is paradoxically home to some of its most extreme and artisanal viticulture. This is a region of stark contrasts: the skyscrapers of Milan stand just an hour from the vertiginous, terraced vineyards of Valtellina, where Nebbiolo (locally Chiavennasca) grows at 700 meters on granite cliffs. While Franciacorta produces millions of bottles of metodo classico sparkling wine (Italy's answer to Champagne), a quiet revolution brews in the Oltrepò Pavese hills and the Po Valley plains.

This guide explores the emerging natural wine movement of Lombardy—pockets of resistance where Alpine extremes and ancient traditions defy industrial logic. Camillo Donati (Mantova) is the region's cult figure, making wild-ferment Lambrusco and Malvasia without sulfur since the 1990s in the flatlands south of the Po. Cascina Montagnola (Oltrepò Pavese) has resurrected the nearly extinct Timorasso grape, farming organically and fermenting with native yeast. In Valtellina, young producers like Dirupi are challenging the established houses by embracing natural fermentation in the extreme Alpine terroir. Barone Pizzini leads the biodynamic charge in Franciacorta, proving that Italy's most prestigious sparkling wine region can embrace natural methods.

What distinguishes Lombardy natural wine is extreme terroir—the Valtellina terraces are among the steepest in Europe, requiring helicopter harvesting and hand-carried crates. The continental climate—with Alpine influences, lake effects from Como and Garda, and Po Valley fog—creates wines of nerve and acidity. It is also defined by grape diversity—from the rare Timorasso white to Croatina (Bonarda), Marzemino, and the Alpine Nebbiolo that rivals Barolo. In a region dominated by industrial Franciacorta and bulk Oltrepò, these producers are reclaiming Lombardy's pre-industrial wine heritage.

Key Facts

Location: North Italy, Alps to Po Valley
History: Roman "Rhaetic" wines, Swiss trade routes
Key Regions: Valtellina, Franciacorta, Oltrepò Pavese, Mantova, Garda
Main Grapes: Nebbiolo, Chardonnay/Pinot, Timorasso, Croatina, Lambrusco
Method: Metodo classico, Alpine terracing, appassimento
Style: Alpine reds, mineral whites, re-fermented sparklers
Notable: Steepest vineyards in Europe (Valtellina)

From Retico to Metodo Classico

Alpine trade routes and the rise of Franciacorta

5th Century BC

The Rhaeti People

The Rhaeti (from whom "Rhaetic wine" mentioned by Pliny and Virgil takes its name) cultivate vines in the Alpine valleys. Valtellina—known as "Vinea Rhaetica"—supplies wine to Roman legions stationed in the Alps. The steep, south-facing terraces are already established, carved into granite and schist. The "Sforzato" drying method (appassimento) develops to concentrate sugars for wines that can survive mountain transport.

Middle Ages

Monasteries & Mountain Trade

Benedictine and Cistercian monks (notably the Abbey of Pontida) expand viticulture in Lombardy. The "Strada del Vino" connects Valtellina to Switzerland over the Splügen Pass—Alpine Nebbiolo becomes prized in Zurich and Bern. The Visconti and Sforza dynasties promote wine production around Milan. Oltrepò Pavese (south of the Po) develops as the "Tuscany of the North" with Barbera and Croatina.

1600-1800s

The Splügen Pass Trade

Valtellina wine reaches its commercial peak, exporting "Sforzato" and "Inferno" (hell—referring to the hot, steep terraces) to northern Europe. The Napoleonic wars and phylloxera (late 1800s) devastate the region. Many terraces are abandoned due to the extreme labor required. Oltrepò shifts toward bulk wine production for Milan's working class.

1961

The Birth of Franciacorta

Guido Berlucchi releases the first "Pinot di Franciacorta," applying Champagne methods to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown on glacial moraine hills between Brescia and Lake Iseo. The region explodes—by the 1980s, Franciacorta is Italy's premier sparkling wine DOC (upgraded to DOCG in 1995). Industrialization follows: large houses (Ca' del Bosco, Bellavista) dominate with technically perfect but often sterile wines.

1990s

The Natural Awakening

Camillo Donati (Mantova) converts his family estate to organic farming and zero-sulfur natural wine, reviving ancestral method Lambrusco. In Valtellina, small producers begin rejecting the standardized "Sforzato" style for fresher, natural Nebbiolo. Oltrepò Pavese sees the first organic Timorasso plantings. Franciacorta remains resistant to natural methods, but Barone Pizzini (founded 1870) begins biodynamic conversion.

2010-Present

The New Generation

Dirupi (Valtellina) gains cult status for natural, no-sulfur Nebbiolo from extreme altitudes. Cascina Montagnola establishes Timorasso as a serious natural white. La Torre and Ferghettina experiment with low-dosage, ancestral method Franciacorta. The "Oltrepò Natural" movement grows—producers reclaiming the region's heritage grapes (Croatina, Uva Rara) from bulk wine production. Valtellina's terraced vineyards receive UNESCO protection (2018), highlighting the cultural importance of extreme viticulture.

"In Valtellina, you don't make wine with machines. You make it with your back, your legs, and your courage. The mountain decides everything—humility is the first ingredient." — A vigneron from Sondrio, Valtellina

Valtellina, Franciacorta & Oltrepò

Granite terraces, glacial moraines, and Apennine foothills

⛰️ Valtellina

The most extreme vineyards in Europe. A narrow Alpine valley (Adda River) running east-west at the Swiss border, with vineyards planted on south-facing granite and schist terraces between 300-800 meters. The Nebbiolo here (called Chiavennasca) ripens with high acidity and elegant tannins due to the cool Alpine nights. Subzones: Sassella (granite, elegant), Grumello (alluvial, fruity), Inferno (steep, hot, powerful), Valgella (fresh, aromatic). Natural producers focus on whole-cluster fermentation and cement aging rather than the traditional appassimento method.

🥂 Franciacorta

Morainic hills (glacial deposits) between Brescia and Lake Iseo. The soil is complex—sand, silt, gravel, and glacial pebbles ("sasso") with excellent drainage. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir dominate for metodo classico sparkling wine. While most production is industrial, the terroir suits natural wine: the cool lake breezes and high elevation (200-400m) allow organic farming. Natural producers here focus on zero-dosage (no added sugar), extended lees aging, and ancestral methods (pét-nat style). The "Satèn" (blanc de blancs) style particularly expresses terroir when made naturally.

🍇 Oltrepò Pavese

The "southern Tuscany" of Lombardy—rolling Apennine foothills south of the Po River. Clay-limestone soils with high mineral content. Historically produced bulk wine for Milan, now experiencing a natural renaissance. Timorasso (rare, complex white) thrives here, as does Croatina (Bonarda—light, fruity red), Barbera, and Uva Rara. The climate is continental with Apennine influences—fog in autumn, good diurnal range. Many abandoned vineyards are being reclaimed by young natural producers.

🌊 Lake Garda (Bresciano)

Morainic hills on the western shore of Lake Garda. The lake moderates the climate, creating a Mediterranean microclimate in an Alpine region. Marzemino (red, mentioned in Mozart's Don Giovanni), Sangiovese, and Groppello are traditional. The "Garda Classico" zone produces light, fresh reds and sparkling wines. Natural producers focus on the indigenous Marzemino, making crunchy, chillable reds with whole-cluster fermentation. The "Vino Santo" (passito) tradition exists here but is rare in natural versions.

🌾 Mantova (Alto Mantovano)

Flat Po Valley plains south of Mantua city—traditionally agricultural, not viticultural. Yet this is where Camillo Donati makes some of Italy's most sought-after natural wines. The soil is alluvial clay with limestone pockets. Lambrusco (Maestri and Viadanese varieties) and Malvasia di Candia are the grapes. The extreme humidity (Po River fog) makes organic farming challenging, but the wines are unique—earthy, savory, with high acidity despite the flat terrain. A testament to terroir being about farmer vision as much as landscape.

🏔️ Valcalepio

Overlooked hills between Bergamo and Lake Iseo. Merlot and Chardonnay dominate commercially, but indigenous varieties like Moscato di Scanzo (rare, aromatic red) persist. Some natural producers experiment with high-altitude vineyards here as climate change shifts viable viticulture northward. The soil is limestone and clay with marine fossils.

Regional Natural Wine Character

Zone	Soil	Grapes	Natural Wine Character
Valtellina	Granite, schist, terraces	Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca)	High acid, floral, mineral
Franciacorta	Glacial moraine, sand/silt	Chardonnay, Pinot Noir	Zero dosage, mineral, leesy
Oltrepò Pavese	Clay-limestone, Apennine	Timorasso, Croatina	Textured whites, crunchy reds
Lake Garda	Morainic, glacial	Marzemino, Sangiovese	Light, fresh, Mediterranean
Mantova	Alluvial clay, Po Valley	Lambrusco, Malvasia	Earthy, savory, high acid

The Featured Producers

Alpine heroes and Po Valley rebels

Valtellina – The Alpine Extremists

Dirupi

Sondrio, Valtellina

The future of Valtellina natural wine. Two young friends ( Pierluigi and Marcello) founded this estate in 2004 with no family land, buying grapes from old farmers in the most extreme sites (Sassella, Grumello). Organic farming, natural yeast, whole-cluster fermentation, minimal sulfur only when necessary. "Rosso di Valtellina" is the entry—crunchy, floral, peppery. "Sassella" and "Grumello" single-vineyard wines show the granite terroir. Also make "Sforzato" (dried grape wine) naturally—rare and controversial. The wines are transparent, high-acid, truly Alpine.

Young Guns Extreme Altitude Whole Cluster No Sulfur

Ar.Pe.Pe.

Grumello del Monte, Valtellina

Arturo Pelizzatti Perego (hence Ar.Pe.Pe.) is the standard-bearer for traditional Valtellina, but with natural-leaning philosophy. Fifth-generation family estate (1860), organic since 1984. Extremely long macerations (100+ days) for Nebbiolo, aged in large old oak and chestnut. "Rocce Rosse" and "Buon Consiglio" are the top wines—ethereal, rose-scented, aged for years before release. While not strictly "natural" (minimal SO2 used), the farming is chemical-free and the cellar is wild-yeast, ambient temperature. The elegance and longevity rival Barolo.

Traditionalist Long Maceration Aging Potential Icon

Sandro Fay

San Giacomo di Teglio, Valtellina

Family estate since 1973, organic certified, focusing on single-vineyard expressions of Valtellina's subzones. "Costera" is the flagship—Nebbiolo from the terraced vineyards around the winery. More polished and accessible than Ar.Pe.Pe., but still terroir-driven. The "Sforzato di Valtellina" (called "Fay" here) is made from dried grapes but fermented with native yeast, creating a fresher, less extracted style than the norm. Good entry point for understanding Alpine Nebbiolo.

Organic Single Vineyard Accessible Family Estate

Franciacorta – The Biodynamic Vanguard

Barone Pizzini

Provaglio d'Iseo, Franciacorta

Founded 1870, converted to organic 1998, biodynamic 2007—the first in Franciacorta. A bridge between traditional method excellence and natural philosophy. "Animante" (Brut) is the flagship—Chardonnay dominant, zero dosage, mineral and saline. "Bagnadore" (Rosé) is Pinot Noir with extended skin contact. The estate focuses on extended lees aging (much longer than appellation requires) and no malolactic inhibition—allowing natural processes. While sulfur is used (minimal), the farming is pristine and the wines express the glacial moraine terroir honestly.

Biodynamic Pioneer First Organic Extended Lees Heritage

Ferghettina

Adro, Franciacorta

Family estate (1991), sustainable/low-intervention approach without formal certification. Known for "Milledì" (Brut) and "Eclissi" (Rosé), but the natural wine interest is in their Saten—blanc de blancs aged in concrete eggs rather than steel, creating texture and salinity. Experiments with ancestral method (bottle-fermented, undisgorged) for small lots. The focus is on Chardonnay expression from different terroirs within Franciacorta. Cleaner and more "classic" than fully natural, but moving toward lower sulfur and native yeast.

Concrete Eggs Saten Transition Chardonnay Focus

La Torre

Paderno Franciacorta

Small, family-run estate practicing organic farming and natural vinification for their still wines and some sparkling experiments. "Curtif" is a skin-contact Chardonnay (orange wine) from Franciacorta—rare and radical for a region obsessed with clear bubbles. Also makes traditional method sparkling with low dosage. Represents the "fringe" of Franciacorta—proving the terroir can support natural wine beyond the industrial paradigm.

Skin Contact Orange Wine Small Scale Experimental

Oltrepò & Mantova – The Po Valley Rebels

Camillo Donati

San Pancrazio, Parma (Mantova border)

The godfather of natural wine in the Po Valley. Estate founded 1935, Camillo converted to organic 1988, zero sulfur since 1990s. Famous for Lambrusco (Maestri and Salamino varieties) made by ancestral method—bottle-fermented, cloudy, dry, with no disgorgement. Also makes "Malvasia Dolce" (naturally sweet, not fortified) and "Rosso" still wines. The wines are wild, earthy, with high volatility—challenging but beloved by natural wine fans. The flat, humid terroir of the Po Valley makes organic farming extremely difficult (mildew pressure), making his achievement remarkable.

Lambrusco Legend Zero Sulfur Ancestral Method Po Valley

Cascina Montagnola

Montecalvo Versiggia, Oltrepò Pavese

The savior of Timorasso. This estate resurrected the nearly extinct indigenous white grape in the 1990s, farming organically and fermenting with native yeast. Timorasso is complex, age-worthy, mineral—compared to White Burgundy when well-made. "Montecalvo" is the flagship white. Also makes "Barbera" and "Croatina" (called "Bonarda" here) with whole-cluster, carbonic methods—light, juicy, chillable reds. The estate is in the high hills of Oltrepò (400m), giving freshness rare in the region.

Timorasso Specialist Indigenous Organic High Altitude

Ca' del Monte

Canneto Pavese, Oltrepò Pavese

Historic estate (1890) converted to organic and natural methods by the current generation. Focus on Croatina (Bonarda) and Uva Rara—indigenous reds usually bulk-wine fodder, here elevated to artisanal status. "Buttafuoco" is the traditional Oltrepò red blend (Croatina, Barbera, Uva Rara)—made here with native yeast, no temperature control, minimal sulfur. Also makes "Metodo Classico" from Pinot Noir (traditional but natural-leaning). Represents the "honest farmer" approach to Oltrepò.

Croatina Buttafuoco Heritage Oltrepò

"They said you couldn't make natural wine in the Po Valley—the humidity, the fog, the mildew. But my grandfather did it before chemicals existed. We just had to remember how." — Camillo Donati

The Grapes of Lombardy

From Alpine Nebbiolo to rare Timorasso

Indigenous Red • The Alpine

Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca)

Same grape as Barolo, but DNA testing shows it's adapted to Alpine conditions over centuries. In Valtellina, it's called Chiavennasca (from the valley name). Lighter-bodied, more acidic, more floral than Piedmontese versions due to the high altitude (400-800m) and granite soils. Natural winemakers use whole-cluster fermentation to emphasize the peppery, wild-strawberry character. The wines age gracefully but are more approachable young than Barolo. Key flavors: rose petal, tar, wild strawberry, white pepper, crushed granite.

Style: High acid, elegant tannin, floral
Natural Wine Role: Whole cluster, cement aging, no appassimento
Top Producers: Dirupi, Ar.Pe.Pe., Sandro Fay
Regions: Valtellina (Sassella, Grumello, Inferno)
Notable: Steepest vineyards in Europe (up to 70% grade)

Indigenous White • The Extinct

Timorasso

Nearly extinct by the 1980s, now the pride of Oltrepò Pavese. Complex, thick-skinned white with high phenolic content, capable of long aging (10+ years) and oak barrel fermentation. Aromas of acacia honey, almond, preserved lemon, and wet stone. Natural winemakers skin-contact Timorasso to extract the full phenolic structure, creating "orange" wines with tannin and body. The grape expresses the Apennine clay-limestone soils distinctly. Limited plantings (under 200 hectares total), making it a cult variety.

Style: Full-bodied, mineral, age-worthy
Natural Wine Role: Skin contact, amphora aging
Top Producers: Cascina Montagnola, La Colombera
Regions: Oltrepò Pavese (Colli Tortonesi overlap)
Notable: Called "White Barolo" for aging potential

Indigenous Red • The Everyday

Croatina (Bonarda)

The workhorse grape of Oltrepò Pavese—light-bodied, deeply colored, high in anthocyanins but low in tannin. Traditionally made into bulk wine or fruity "frizzante" (slightly sparkling). Natural winemakers are reclaiming it as a serious variety: whole-cluster fermentation creates peppery, Beaujolais-like reds; carbonic maceration emphasizes the bubblegum and strawberry notes. Blended with Barbera and Uva Rara for "Buttafuoco" DOC. In Argentina, it's confusingly called Bonarda (different from the French Bonarda). Flavors: blackberry, black pepper, violets, earth.

Style: Light body, dark color, low tannin
Natural Wine Role: Carbonic, whole cluster, chillable
Top Producers: Ca' del Monte, Cascina Montagnola
Regions: Oltrepò Pavese, Colli Piacentini
Notable: Often made frizzante (naturally re-fermented)

More Lombardy Varieties

The supporting cast of Alpine and valley grapes

Chardonnay (Franciacorta): The base for metodo classico sparkling. Natural versions see extended lees contact, no malolactic blockage, and zero dosage.

Pinot Noir (Franciacorta): Used for rosé and Blanc de Noirs. Natural producers use whole-cluster pressing and wild fermentation.

Marzemino: Light, fruity red from Lake Garda (Mozart's favorite). Natural versions are chillable, whole-cluster, with distinct violet aromas.

Uva Rara: "Rare Grape"—indigenous to Oltrepò, adds acidity to blends. Rarely bottled alone but interesting when made as light red.

Lambrusco Maestri/Viadanese: Mantova varieties for re-fermented sparkling red. Deep color, dry finish, earthy flavors.

Malvasia di Candia: Aromatic white from Mantova, naturally high acidity. Donati makes a legendary sweet version (naturally dried).

Barbera: High-acid red from Oltrepò, usually blended but sometimes solo. Natural versions are crunchy and bright.

Food Pairing & Lombard Cuisine

Risotto, bresaola, and Alpine cheeses

For Valtellina Nebbiolo

Alpine reds meet mountain fare

Bresaola: Air-dried beef from Valtellina (essential pairing)
Pizzoccheri: Buckwheat pasta with cabbage and cheese
Bitto cheese: Aged Alpine cheese (DOP)
Polenta taragna: With buckwheat and butter
Game: Venison, chamois, mountain goat

For Franciacorta Natural

Zero dosage meets lake fish

Sardines: Fresh from Lake Iseo
Salva cheese: Soft, ripe, stinky (perfect with Satèn)
Casoncelli: Meat-filled pasta from Brescia
Whitebait: Fried lake fish (coregone)
Oysters: Zero dosage with mineral whites

For Oltrepò Reds (Croatina)

Light reds meet Emilian cuisine

Salumi: Culatello di Zibello, Felino salami
Tortelli: Stuffed pasta with ricotta/herbs
Grilled sausages: With polenta
Cotechino: Fresh pork sausage (fruity reds cut fat)
Fried gnocco: Puffy bread with cured meats

For Lambrusco & Natural Bubbles

Cloudy sparklers meet Mantova

Tortelli di zucca: Pumpkin ravioli with amaretti
Stracotto: Braised beef in wine
Salamina da sugo: Fermented pork sausage
Gnocco fritto: Fried dough with salumi
Grana Padano: Aged (different zone but perfect match)

Lombard Culinary Traditions

From Milan to the Alps

Risotto Culture: Lombardy is Italy's rice capital (Arborio, Carnaroli). Risotto alla Milanese (saffron) is sacred—pair with Franciacorta Satèn. Risotto with perch for Lake Garda reds.

Polenta: Staple of the poor, now gourmet. Valtellina's "pizzoccheri" (buckwheat pasta) is unique to the region—heavy, perfect with structured Nebbiolo.

Bresaola: The original "air-dried beef" from Valtellina—lean, elegant, requiring the high-acid local wine.

Cassoeula: Winter pork stew from Milan—heavy, fatty, needs Lambrusco acidity or Oltrepò Croatina.

Panettone: Milan's Christmas bread (tall, fruity). Pair with Sforzato (dried grape wine) or natural sweet Malvasia.

Bitto & Casera: Alpine cheeses for grating (Bitto) or eating (Casera). Essential with Valtellina wines.

Visiting Natural Lombardy

From Milan fashion to Alpine terraces

⛰️ Valtellina

Base in Sondrio or Morbegno. The Strada del Vino di Valtellina winds through the terraced vineyards. Visit Dirupi (appointment essential—English spoken). Ar.Pe.Pe. (tastings in historic cellar). Nino Negri (for contrast—historic, large). Combine with Bormio (thermal baths, skiing) or Livigno (duty-free shopping). The Bernina Express train (UNESCO) connects to Switzerland. Best in autumn (harvest, golden terraces) or winter (wine + skiing).

🥂 Franciacorta

Base in Brescia or Iseo (lake town). Barone Pizzini (tours of biodynamic vineyards). Ferghettina (modern winery, restaurant). Ca' del Bosco (for contrast—architectural, traditional). Combine with Lake Iseo (boats to Monte Isola), Bergamo (beautiful upper town), or Milan (1 hour). Cellatica village for traditional trattorias. Best in spring (April—blossoms) or autumn.

🍇 Oltrepò & Mantova

Base in Pavia (university town) or Mantova (UNESCO Renaissance city). Cascina Montagnola (appointment—Timorasso tasting). Camillo Donati (very difficult—flat, rural area near Parma border, Italian essential). Ca' del Monte (Oltrepò hills). Combine with Parma (culinary capital) or Cremona (violin makers). The landscape is gentle hills—not dramatic like Valtellina, but authentic rural Italy. Best in late spring or early autumn.

Lombardy Natural Wine Travel Tips

Navigating the industrial north

Timing: Valtellina harvest is late (October) due to altitude. Franciacorta is busy in summer—book ahead. Oltrepò is foggy in November/December (avoid).

Transport: Car essential for Valtellina (winding mountain roads) and Oltrepò. Franciacorta can be done by bike (rent in Iseo). Trains connect Milan to Sondrio (Valtellina) and Brescia well.

Language: English less spoken than in Tuscany/Piedmont. Learn basic Italian or bring a phrasebook. Young producers (Dirupi) speak English; older farmers (Donati) do not.

Valtellina Hazards: The roads are narrow and steep. If you get carsick, take the train to Tirano and hire a local driver. Helicopter harvesting happens in September—spectacular to watch.

Combinations: Lombardy combines well with Switzerland (cross from Valtellina) or Emilia-Romagna (Parma/Bologna from Oltrepò). Milan is the entry point—allow 2 days for the city before wine country.

Food Integration: Lombardy is Italy's richest region—dining is serious. Don't plan tastings without food; the wines (especially Nebbiolo) demand it. Bresaola is the perfect tasting room snack.

7-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Milan: Arrive Milan. Aperitivo in Navigli (natural wine bars: Vino Libero). Overnight Milan.

Day 2 - Franciacorta: Pick up car. Drive to Franciacorta. Barone Pizzini (tasting/lunch). Ferghettina. Overnight Iseo or Brescia.

Day 3 - Valtellina: Early drive to Valtellina (2.5 hours). Lunch in Sondrio. Dirupi (tasting). Sandro Fay or Ar.Pe.Pe. Overnight Morbegno or Tirano.

Day 4 - Alpine Experience: Bernina Express train to Switzerland (St. Moritz) and back, or hiking in Bormio thermal baths. Overnight Valtellina.

Day 5 - Oltrepò Pavese: Drive south (3 hours) to Oltrepò. Cascina Montagnola (Timorasso tasting). Ca' del Monte. Overnight Pavia or castle agriturismo.

Day 6 - Mantova: Drive to Mantova (Renaissance city—visit Palazzo Te). Camillo Donati (if appointment secured—rural location). Parmigiano and culatello tasting near Parma. Overnight Mantova or Parma.

Day 7 - Departure: Return car Milan or Bologna airport (1 hour from Parma). Departure.

Alternative: Add 2 days for Lake Garda (Marzemino producers) or Bergamo (historic city + Valcalepio wine).