Heroic Viticulture on the Edge

The story of Lorieri – Podere Scurtarola is a story of land, of family, and of a man who refused to let ancient grapes disappear. The estate sits on the hills of the Colli Apuani, in the Candia Hills sub-region, near the city of Massa in the province of Massa-Carrara — a "lost corner of Tuscany" that borders the Lunigiana and the Ligurian coast. The name "Scurtarola" means "short-cut" in the local dialect, and indeed the property sits midway between the twin marble towns of Massa and Carrara along a vertiginous route that serves as a shortcut between them. It is a name that captures the essence of the place — steep, direct, unforgiving, and beautiful.

The Lorieri family has been farming this land for over 160 years. For generations, they have tended the steep terraces of the Candia Hills, sharing "joys and fatigues" — as the family puts it — with the land that has always been hard to work but generous in return. The current owner, Pier Paolo Lorieri, has dedicated his life to preserving and revitalizing the traditional viticulture of the region. He is not merely a winemaker; he is a viticulturalist, an ampelologist, a researcher, and a guardian of biodiversity. His work has been recognized internationally, and he serves as Presidente dell'Associazione Strada del Vino "Colli di Candia e Lunigiana" — the Wine Route of the Candia Hills and Lunigiana.

Pier Paolo's most celebrated achievement is the revival of the Vermentino Nero grape — an exclusive variety from the Apuan area that was abandoned by makeshift winemakers in the post-war period but always remembered by the old farmers. Pier Paolo's father told him about it, but he did not listen. In 1987, his friend Fucigna asked him to produce Vermentino Nero in purezza. Skeptical but curious, Pier Paolo produced his first vintage in 1989. Thus, Vermentino Nero was reborn. He began traveling to find possible synonyms that do not exist; he began studying the making of red wines in the soil of whites, of long-living wines in an area of fast wines. It was, as he describes it, "the continued contradiction of a culture which wants to mix together the grape in the vineyard and in the winecellar. Avant-garde of new ideas."

Today, Pier Paolo has made a study of countless other little-known and forgotten grape varieties, conducting trials with the goal of reviving them. The estate now cultivates 51 different vine varieties — 36 native to the area and 4 completely unknown to science. This is not merely a vineyard; it is a living laboratory, a botanical garden of viticultural heritage. Pier Paolo works with companies to mechanize work in the extreme vineyards of the area, and they have produced a special miniature tractor for work on the terraces — a concession to modernity in a landscape that demands tradition. But much of the work remains stubbornly, heroically manual. As the old saying goes: one man could carry two baskets full of grapes from the bottom of the hill in the old days; now it takes two to carry one. The vineyards are not merely steep; they are precipitous, with inclines of up to 80%, carved into terraces that cling to the hillside like the fingers of a climber.

The estate is also an agriturismo — a working farm that welcomes visitors. Pier Paolo and his wife Rosanna are known for their extraordinary hospitality. As Fred Plotkin wrote in "Italy for the Gourmet Traveller": "Rosanna and Pierpaolo have an innate understanding of the meaning of hospitality, which is, after all, an art. But like all great artists, they make their work seem effortless. PierPaolo says he hopes people who arrive as strangers will depart as friends." This spirit of warmth and generosity permeates everything they do — from the vineyard to the table, from the cellar to the guest room. It is a reminder that great wine is not merely a product; it is an invitation, a conversation, a bridge between people and place.

At Lorieri – Podere Scurtarola, the cellar philosophy is one of profound respect for tradition, for the grape, and for the natural process of transformation. The guiding principle is simple: the wine must be the honest expression of the vineyard, of the heroic terraces, of the 51 varieties, and of the hands that made it. Pier Paolo Lorieri is not an interventionist winemaker; he is a guide, a steward, a patient observer. In the cellar, the approach is to guide the wine with as little intervention as possible — spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, ageing in a variety of vessels including stainless steel and old oak barrels, and a focus on allowing the wine to develop complexity without the influence of new wood. The use of sulfur is kept to a minimum. The result is a portfolio of wines that are authentic, identitarian, and deeply expressive of the Colli Apuani terroir — wines that taste of the sea, the mountain, the steep terraces, and the centuries of tradition that shaped them.

The techniques are straightforward yet demanding, shaped by the extreme terrain and the commitment to preserving ancient varieties:

"Vernero" — The Vermentino Nero Revival: The Vernero is Lorieri – Podere Scurtarola's most celebrated and historically significant wine — the flagship red made from 100% Vermentino Nero, the rare local clone that Pier Paolo Lorieri single-handedly revived from near-extinction. It is a wine of extraordinary character: a red made from a grape that was historically considered a white variety, a long-living wine from an area known for fast wines, a testament to the "continued contradiction of a culture which wants to mix together the grape in the vineyard and in the winecellar." The Vermentino Nero vineyard is selected from biotypes preserved and propagated by Pier Paolo over decades of research. The grapes are hand-harvested from the steep terraces, destemmed, and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The maceration is long — extracting color, tannin, and phenolic compounds from the skins — and the wine is aged in wood for a year, followed by a long rest in bottle before release. Pier Paolo describes the method as "nearly academic" in its simplicity: perfect grape, low yield per hectare, maximum concentration, long maceration with the skins, long ageing in wood, continued control of taste, bottling, refinement in bottle. The result is bottled unfiltered. In the glass, it is deep, almost black in color, with a bouquet of undergrowth, warm earth, and dark fruit. The palate is full, smooth, and profoundly satisfying — a wine that makes you "eat and drink with the same glass," as Pier Paolo puts it. It is a wine of great longevity; in September 2003, Pier Paolo opened a bottle from 1990 and found it still vibrant, with a bouquet of undergrowth and a color that had deepened to black. Serve at 16–18°C after decanting. 10–15+ years ageing potential. ~$28–$38 / ~€25–€35.

"Gocce di Pietra" — The White Blend: The Gocce di Pietra — "Drops of Stone" — is Lorieri – Podere Scurtarola's signature white wine, a blend that captures the mineral soul of the Candia Hills. It is composed of 75% Vermentino, 10% Albarola, 10% Trebbiano, and 5% Malvasia — a traditional blend of the white grapes that have grown in this coastal-mountain interface for centuries. The grapes are hand-harvested from the steep terraces, gently pressed, and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The result is a wine of crystalline purity and stony minerality — green apple, citrus zest, white flowers, almond, and a distinct saline quality that speaks of the nearby Mediterranean. The palate is crisp, textured, and refreshing, with a long, clean finish that evokes the limestone and clay of the Apuan slopes. It is a fresh, honest expression of the terroir — a white wine that proves the Colli Apuani can produce whites of both delicacy and character. Serve well chilled at 8–10°C. ~$18–$26 / ~€16–€23.

"Luci del Tramonto" — The Sweet Sunset: The Luci del Tramonto — "Lights of the Sunset" — is the sweet version of Gocce di Pietra, made from the same blend of Vermentino (75%), Albarola (10%), Trebbiano (10%), and Malvasia (5%). It is a passito-style wine, where the grapes are partially dried before pressing, concentrating their sugars and flavors. The result is a wine of extraordinary aromatic intensity and honeyed depth — dried apricot, orange blossom, honey, saffron, and a distinct mineral freshness that prevents it from becoming cloying. The palate is rich, unctuous, and balanced by vibrant acidity, with a long, lingering finish that evokes the golden light of a Tuscan sunset. It is a wine for contemplation, for pairing with aged cheeses, fruit tarts, or simply for sipping as the day ends. Serve slightly chilled at 10–12°C. ~$22–$32 / ~€20–€29.

"Scurtarola Rosso" — The Traditional Red Blend: The Scurtarola Rosso is Lorieri – Podere Scurtarola's classic red blend — a wine that pays homage to the traditional viticulture of the Candia Hills and the diversity of the estate's 51 varieties. It is a blend of 40% Sangiovese, 20% Massaretta, 20% Ciliegiolo, and 20% Buonamico — four varieties that represent the backbone of the local red wine tradition. The grapes are hand-harvested from the steep terraces, co-fermented with indigenous yeasts, and aged in a combination of stainless steel and old oak barrels. The result is a wine of rustic elegance and food-friendly charm — bright cherry, wild strawberry, plum, Mediterranean herbs, and a distinct earthy, mineral undertone. The palate is medium-bodied, with soft tannins, lively acidity, and a clean, savory finish. It is the wine of the table — versatile, approachable, and deeply satisfying. Serve at 14–16°C. ~$18–$26 / ~€16–€23.

"Massaretta" — The Native Red: The Massaretta is Lorieri – Podere Scurtarola's single-varietal expression of the native Massaretta grape — a variety that is virtually unknown outside the Colli Apuani and Lunigiana. It is a wine of deep color, rustic character, and a unique blend of red fruit and earthy notes that speaks of the steep terraces and the ancient farming traditions of the area. The grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed, and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The maceration is long, extracting the full depth of color and tannin that Massaretta is capable of, and the wine is aged in old oak barrels to develop complexity without the influence of new wood. The result is a wine of extraordinary personality — dark ruby in color, with a nose of black cherry, blackberry, earth, smoke, and a hint of wild herbs. The palate is full-bodied, with firm tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savory, mineral finish. It is a wine that demands food — rich pasta, grilled meats, wild boar — and rewards patience, with 5–8 years of cellaring potential. Serve at 16–18°C after decanting. ~$22–$32 / ~€20–€29.

"Federico I" — The Passito: The Federico I is Lorieri – Podere Scurtarola's passito — a dessert wine of extraordinary depth and historical resonance, named in honor of a family ancestor whose portrait adorns the label. It is made from a blend of Vermentino, Albarola, Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Bosco — the white grapes of the estate, partially dried to concentrate their sugars and flavors. The result is a wine of honeyed richness and complex aromatics — dried apricot, fig, orange peel, honey, saffron, and a distinct mineral freshness that lifts the palate. The wine is aged in old wood, developing a subtle oxidative character that adds depth and intrigue. It is a wine for special occasions, for pairing with aged Pecorino, almond biscotti, or dark chocolate. Serve slightly chilled at 10–12°C. ~$24–$34 / ~€22–€30.

"Lorieri Brut" — The Sparkling: The Lorieri Brut is the estate's sparkling wine — a dry spumante characterized by intense and lasting notes, fine perlage, and elegant aroma. Fermented for 36 months, it is a wine of sophistication and refinement that proves the Colli Apuani can produce sparkling wines of distinction. The base wine is made from a blend of the estate's white grapes, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and then subjected to the second fermentation in bottle using the traditional method. The result is a wine of crystalline purity and persistent effervescence — green apple, lemon zest, white flowers, brioche, and a distinct mineral backbone. The palate is crisp, elegant, and refreshing, with a long, clean finish. It is the ultimate celebratory wine — perfect as an aperitif, with oysters, or simply for toasting to the beauty of heroic viticulture. Serve well chilled at 6–8°C. ~$22–$32 / ~€20–€29.

Vessels & Ageing: Lorieri – Podere Scurtarola works with a mix of stainless steel tanks and old oak barrels — a varied approach that allows Pier Paolo to choose the vessel that best allows each wine to express its unique character. Stainless steel is used for the fresher wines like Gocce di Pietra — preserving purity, preventing oxidation, and allowing the primary fruit and mineral character to shine. Old oak barrels are used for the Vernero and Massaretta — adding subtle complexity, softening tannins, and developing depth without introducing the flavors of new wood. The ageing periods are long — a year or more in wood for the reds, followed by extended bottle ageing — reflecting Pier Paolo's belief that great wine needs time, patience, and continued control of taste. All wines are unfiltered, with minimal sulfur added only when necessary — preserving their natural textures, living yeasts, and authentic flavors.