Lucas RieffelFarmer First
Third generation winemaker, champion of Sylvaner, pioneer of natural Alsace. "I'd rather be a farmer than a commercial director."
From 1946 to today—three generations of Sylvaner champions in Mittelbergheim
The Rieffel family story begins in 1946 when Julien Rieffel, Lucas's grandfather, began bottling and marketing wine with Sylvaner de Mittelbergheim. Like all farms in the village at that time, the estate practiced polyculture—they also reared cattle. Back then, 85% of their vineyards were planted to Sylvaner [^199^][^206^].
In 1971, Lucas's father André Rieffel took over the estate and gradually enlarged it through various acquisitions, including a plot of Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr in the 1980s. He produced his first Crémant d'Alsace in 1981. André didn't use chemical fungicides but did use herbicide occasionally [^199^][^206^].
Lucas joined in 1996, shortly after the family acquired plots of Grand Cru Wiebelsberg in Andlau. He did a stage at Domaine Ostertag that opened his eyes to different methods of working—"more artistic" approaches that inspired him to improve their own wines. By 2002, the domaine was converted to organics, and the 2012 harvest was the first certified AB (organic farming) [^199^][^200^].
"People were pulling out Sylvaner vines because they couldn't sell the wines. It's like Carignan in the south of France—there are old vines on special terroirs, but it's not taken so seriously because it's not as well-known as Syrah, even though Syrah doesn't work so well in the south. It's a shame."
Today, Lucas farms 10 hectares across Zotzenberg, Wiebelsberg, and Kirchberg Grand Crus, producing around 60,000 bottles annually. He replants 20-50 ares per year at higher densities (6,000-8,000 plants/hectare) to maintain quality and continuity [^199^][^200^].
Six-hour press cycles, whole bunch fermentation, and the art of patience
Lucas's winemaking philosophy centers on patience and gentleness. He discovered that wines only benefit from the phenolics in the skins if they are pressed for six hours or more—any less, and the wine misses out on the goodness within the skins. This long, slow press cycle is a hallmark of his method [^199^].
In 2004, he began experimenting with whole bunch fermentation for his Pinot Noir. "By tasting our wines with stem inclusion, it was just obvious that they were better. We spend all day harvesting and sorting in the vineyards and winery to choose the most beautiful bunches: why would you want to throw them into a destemming machine?" [^199^]
By 2007, he stopped pigeage (punching down), replacing it with a gentler, infusion-style of winemaking. This produces lighter, more delicate wines focused on floral aromatics—particularly important for Pinot Noir in a region experiencing hotter, drier summers [^199^].
He's also meticulous about sulfur management, currently experimenting with different sulfite regimens—20mg/L, zero, and homeopathic doses—to find the perfect balance between stability and expression [^199^].
- 6-hour press cycles
- Whole bunch fermentation
- Infusion style (no pigeage)
- Old Burgundy barrels
- No chaptalization
- Lunar cycle respect
Three Grand Crus—Zotzenberg, Wiebelsberg, and Kirchberg de Barr
Zotzenberg
The only Grand Cru to allow Sylvaner as a classified noble variety. Marl-limestone soil, east-south facing with gentle undulating incline. Lucas's Sylvaner from here shows pear skins, orange fruits, and distinct minerality. In 1970, Sylvaner was 27% of Alsace; today it's 6%. Lucas is fighting to preserve this heritage [^200^].
Wiebelsberg
12.5 hectares of sand and sandstone—super quick draining. South-southeast exposure, medium gradient slope from 200-300 meters. Reputation for pure, elegant, structured Rieslings with long cellar potential. The site cools quickly in evening due to shadows from adjacent Kastelberg hill and forest [^200^].
Kirchberg de Barr
40.6 hectares of marl and limestone, facing directly southeast. Lucas's Pinot Gris comes from La Colline des Escargots (Hill of the Snails)—early ripening site lending itself to Pinot Gris. The L'Emprise Crémant comes from here (50/50 Pinot Gris/Chardonnay), aged 3 years sur lattes [^200^].
From Sylvaner Grand Cru to Pinot Noir Nature—wines of transparency and terroir
Zotzenberg Sylvaner
From 40+ year old vines on marl-limestone. Clear with pear skins and astringent fruit on the nose. Full and complex taste with orange fruits, mild marmalade, and salinity on the finish. Bone dry with long, mineral finish. Lucas's mission to rehabilitate Sylvaner's reputation starts here [^199^][^200^].
Marl-limestone
40+ year vines
Bone dry
L'Emprise
50/50 Pinot Gris/Chardonnay from Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr. First fermentation in old barriques, then 3 years sur lattes before disgorging. Non-dosed (zero dosage). Notes of yeast, toast, brioche, with complexity and good roundness. One of the most serious Crémants in Alsace [^199^][^200^].
3 years lees
Zero dosage
Grand Cru
Pinot Noir Nature
From vines just below the village. Stainless steel fermentation, then 8 months in 3-5 year barriques, bottled before following harvest. Targets gourmandise fruit and high drinkability. Part of a trio of Pinot Noirs (Nature, Runz, Kreuzel) showing different terroirs. Whole bunch, infusion style, no pigeage [^200^].
Infusion style
8 months oak
Natural approach
Runz
From the Runz vineyard, just below Zotzenberg Grand Cru, mostly older vines. 2-3 weeks whole cluster maceration in stainless steel, then 12 months in 3-5 year barriques. Yields kept low at ~35 hl/ha. Light tannins, emphasis on crushed red fruit and griotte cherries. Great structure with delicate balance [^200^].
Old vines
35 hl/ha yield
12 months elevage
Kreuzel
From a parcel planted in Grand Cru Zotzenberg in 2005 at 7,000 plants/hectare. Same winemaking as Runz (whole cluster, stainless steel, 12 months barrique) but with extra roundness from the Grand Cru terroir. Retains that lovely delicate Pinot Noir balance between acidity, fruit, and weight [^200^].
High density
7,000 plants/ha
Extra roundness
Nu
From the Gebriet lieu-dit—a sheltered granite plateau over the black slate of Kastelberg Grand Cru. Co-planted Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc. Natural wine from 35-40 year old vines, ~800 bottles/year. Some reduction, nice yellow taint, white fruits, salinity, and good finish. Raised in barriques [^200^].
Granite soil
~800 bottles
Barrique aged
Wiebelsberg Riesling
From the sand and sandstone of Wiebelsberg. Clear with touch of color, complex taste of citrus fruits and dried apple skin, tied into vertical, mineral structure. Long finish with delicate salinity. Long cellar potential—classic Wiebelsberg precision and elegance [^200^].
Quick draining
Vertical structure
Long aging potential
The Quiet Pioneer
Lucas Rieffel represents the quiet, determined face of natural wine in Alsace—not chasing trends, but following gut feeling and a desire to protect his old vines. His commitment to Sylvaner—once 85% of his family's vineyards, now rare in the region—shows a dedication to preserving Alsace's heritage [^199^].
His wines are described as "emotive, jolting wines that show an entirely new face of Alsace"—transparent in relation to their terroir, made with a level of care and patience that's rare in the region. From the six-hour press cycles to the whole bunch Pinot Noirs aged in old Burgundy barrels, Lucas proves that being a "farmer, not a commercial director" is the path to wines of true expression [^199^][^200^].
- 3rd generation (founded 1946)
- Joined domaine 1996
- 10 hectares, 60,000 bottles
- Organic certified 2012
- Sylvaner champion
- Zotzenberg GC specialist
- 6-hour press cycles
- Whole bunch fermentation
- Infusion style (no pigeage)
- Old Burgundy barrels
- Crémant L'Emprise (3yr lees)
- Pinot Noir trio (Nature/Runz/Kreuzel)
- "Farmer not commercial director"