The Godfather of Australian Natural Wine
Anton van Klopper is arguably the most influential figure in Australian natural wine — the ringleader of the Basket Range revolution and the co-founder of Natural Selection Theory alongside James Erskine (Jauma), Tom Shobbrook, and Sam Hughes. A South African-born, first-class-honours graduate from the University of Adelaide's Oenology programme, Anton could have pursued a conventional career. Instead, he purchased a 16-acre cherry orchard in Basket Range in 2002, converted it to a biodynamic vineyard, and began making wines that "taste quite unlike anything else." His philosophy is radical: no additions, no fining, no filtration, no sulfur — not even a trace at bottling. The winery uses no chemicals for cleaning, only water and alcohol distilled on-site. Labels are hand-drawn by Anton, often featuring his daughter Lucy's artwork on handmade paper. The wines are decided at the blending stage, never planned in advance. "I think to know what you're doing beforehand is a big mistake," he says. "But I think that if you want to make interesting things then you cannot control it." This is organised chaos — and it has changed Australian wine forever [^143^][^146^][^152^].
From Kitchens to a Cherry Orchard
Anton van Klopper was born in South Africa and moved to Australia at 14. His background was food — he worked in kitchens before realising, at 25, that his drinking habits would make him "the 40 year old at the nightclub." He thought it was time for a change, and he knew wine. He worked vintage, then in a lab, then decided to grow a vineyard. In 2002, with his wife Sally and daughter Lucy, he purchased a 16-acre cherry orchard in Basket Range and began creating their own "Domaine" [^146^][^153^].
Anton started learning Rudolf Steiner's lectures and, for a while, "ruined his life with biodynamic politics." But every time he had a problem, he read Steiner, and Steiner offered an elegant solution. The vineyard was converted to biodynamics. The first estate vintage came in 2007. And the wines quickly became legendary — not because they followed rules, but because they broke every single one [^146^].
The early years were a whirlwind of creativity and chaos. Anton's wines — with their hand-drawn labels, wild blends, and uncompromising natural philosophy — became the calling card of a new Australian wine movement. He mentored Jasper Button of Commune of Buttons, introduced him to natural wine, and helped launch a generation of Basket Range producers. By 2010, Natural Selection Theory was born — a collective that would redefine Australian wine culture [^145^][^147^].
"I think to know what you're doing beforehand is a big mistake. But I think that if you want to make interesting things then you cannot control it."
— Anton van Klopper
Basket Range, Peramangk Country & Biodynamic Life
The Lucy Margaux farm sits in Basket Range — a secluded, tree-filled pocket of the Adelaide Hills where crumpled topography prevents too much development and a small community of like-minded winemakers has converged. The property is on Peramangk Country, and Anton's approach to farming honours the land's original custodians. The vineyard is biodynamic — not certified, but practised with the rigour of someone who has read Steiner cover to cover [^147^][^155^].
Anton has drastically reduced his production over the years — from 120 tonnes down to 60 tonnes annually — to concentrate on quality and to work exclusively with organically farmed fruit. He has also moved away from small-format oak barrels to larger vessels, including a 7,000-litre barrel made from local Australian Jarrah wood (a Eucalyptus species). This shift reflects his belief that wine should not be shaped by wood, but by the fruit and the place [^152^].
The property is more than a vineyard. Anton grows vegetables for The Summertown Aristologist — the restaurant and wine bar he co-owns in nearby Summertown. The farm is a polyculture, not a monoculture — vines, vegetables, fruit trees, and native bushland coexisting in a dynamic, living ecosystem. This is farming as philosophy, not just production [^155^].
A secluded, tree-filled pocket of the Adelaide Hills where Lucy Margaux, Jauma, Ochota Barrels, BK Wines, The Other Right, and Gentle Folk have converged. Crumpled topography, cool climate, and a shared philosophy of wild yeast, minimal additions, and no filtration. The epicentre of Australia's natural wine revolution.
Purchased in 2002 as a cherry orchard, converted to a biodynamic vineyard by Anton, Sally, and daughter Lucy. The property is a polyculture — vines, vegetables, fruit trees, and native bushland. Biodynamic preparations, no synthetic chemicals, and a commitment to soil health above all else.
Anton reduced production from 120 tonnes to 60 tonnes annually to focus on organically farmed fruit and greater concentration. The shift to larger-format vessels — including a 7,000-litre Jarrah wood barrel — allows the wines to express place without the masking effect of small oak.
Anton co-owns this restaurant and wine bar in nearby Summertown, where he serves his own wines alongside a curated selection of natural wines from around the world. The venue grows vegetables from the Lucy Margaux farm, creating a closed-loop food and wine system that embodies Anton's holistic philosophy.
No Additions, No Control, No Sulfur
Anton van Klopper's definition of natural wine is uncompromising: "Natural wine must be made from organic/biodynamic grapes (naturally fermented). The winemaker must not fine, filter, or add anything, including sulfur!" The Lucy Margaux winery uses no chemicals for cleaning — only water and alcohol distilled on-site. There is no temperature control. No cultured yeasts. No acid adjustments. No oak signatures. Just grapes, time, and the microorganisms that live on the fruit [^139^][^143^].
Anton is staunchly against "planning" his wines. He insists that every season is completely different, and there is no sense or benefit in deciding what a wine will be prior to harvest or blending. The makeup of each blend is decided just prior to bottling — often on the day of bottling itself. Labels are hand-drawn by Anton, sometimes featuring his daughter Lucy's artwork on handmade paper. The only machines in the cellar are a de-stemmer, a press, and a hand bottler. All wines are fermented and aged in neutral vessels — old barrels, ceramic, and cement. There is no new oak [^142^][^152^].
This approach is not without risk. Anton acknowledges the high risks of volatile acidity, mousiness, brettanomyces, and lactic acid bacteria fermentation. But he finds it "enlivening to learn the skills and walk with nature." He believes natural wine is good for your body and creates a more beautiful world. This is not marketing language; it is a lived philosophy that has guided every decision for nearly two decades [^139^][^143^].
The Egg Project — Wine, Minerals & Music
One of Natural Selection Theory's most famous experiments: a 2010 Semillon raised in ceramic eggs encased in different minerals and played constant, distinctly varied music. The idea was that the egg's lack of corners would allow swirling, free-flowing energy to ferment into something balanced. The minerals and music were variables, testing whether environment could influence wine beyond the vineyard. It was boundary-pushing, slightly bonkers, and utterly characteristic of the collective's spirit. The Egg Project became a touchstone for the Australian natural wine movement — proof that wine could be art, science, and philosophy all at once.
Organised Chaos & Living Art
Anton van Klopper is a beautiful human — a boundary-pusher, winemaker, father, husband, artist, and philosopher. His approach to wine-as-art could be described as organised chaos. During interviews, he pops in and out of the house, printing and cutting labels as he chats. The labels are all his daughter's drawings on handmade paper. The wines are decided at the last minute. The chaos takes a toll — "I fucking hate it," he admits — but he knows that interesting things cannot be controlled [^152^].
The wines have never been more fascinating. Drinkers should not miss the Wildman Blanc — an astonishing whole-bunch Sauvignon Blanc stomped a couple of times and left in concrete eggs prior to pressing — or the Sauvignon Franc, a blend of Wildman-style Sauvignon Blanc paired with semi-carbonic Cabernet Franc. He has even made a wild beer blend — a Cantillon-inspired collaboration with Louis Broderick, consisting of 200L of wild-fermented beer blended with light red wine [^152^].
Anton's influence extends far beyond his own label. He has mentored Jasper Button (Commune of Buttons), inspired Gareth Belton (Gentle Folk), and shaped the philosophy of the entire Basket Range community. Gourmet Traveller described him as "arguably the most influential character in the Basket Range group, his own approach helping to inspire others." This is not a winemaker making wine; this is a movement-builder creating culture [^147^].
"Natural is not greed, capitalism, chemicals, or control. It is a metamorphosis that allows an archetypal drink to form."
— Anton van Klopper
The Lucy Margaux Range
The Lucy M wines are made on the Lucy Margaux Farm in Basket Range by Anton van Klopper and friends. The wines change every year — one thing is constant: no additions, just grapes. The range spans whites, reds, orange wines, pét-nats, and experimental blends, each with hand-drawn labels and a story to tell. The exact composition is decided at the blending stage, never planned in advance. This is wine as living art [^143^][^148^].