Wine from the Rugged Coastal Mountains
Madson Wines is one of the most exciting young natural wine projects in California — a collaboration between a winemaker, a viticulturist, and a cellar scientist who have built a reputation for precise, energetic wines from the fog-shrouded, windswept Santa Cruz Mountains. [^38^] Founded in 2018 by Cole Thomas, Ken Swegles, and Abbey Chrystal, Madson leases vineyards throughout the AVA, farms them entirely organically, and makes wine with native yeast, minimal sulfur (under 25 ppm), and an obsessive focus on terroir expression. [^38^] [^41^] The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA — covering three counties, 300,000 acres, with vineyards scattered on hillsides from 400 to 2,600 feet elevation — is one of California's most challenging and rewarding places to grow wine. [^43^] Madson captures that challenge in every bottle.
From Organic Vegetable Farming to the Santa Cruz Mountains
Cole Thomas did not come to wine through the conventional path. Before viticulture, he worked as an organic vegetable farmer, an edible landscaper, and as manager of the Demeter Seed Library — a non-profit seed saving project. [^41^] His love for wine originates from his love for agriculture, and that agricultural foundation shapes everything Madson does.
Cole found viticulture when he started working for Jeff Emery at Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard — a local institution with a forty-year tenure and deep devotion to farming. [^38^] It was here that Cole met Ken Swegles and Abbey Chrystal, his eventual business partners. [^38^] Emery's enthusiasm and commitment to the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA inspired Cole greatly, and his senior-year internship set the course for his entire career.
Determined to gain knowledge and exposure, Cole embarked on a self-guided winemaking education that led him to Australia, back to Santa Cruz, and finally to New Zealand. [^38^] In Victoria, Australia, he worked on the Mornington Peninsula, crafting Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Shiraz at Paringa Estate Winery. [^41^] He returned to Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard for four years as Assistant Winemaker, deepening his understanding of the AVA's unique terroir. [^41^] Then, in 2017, an opportunity arose to work in Central Otago, New Zealand, at Prophet's Rock and Amisfield Winery — where Cole discovered many techniques for making natural wine. [^41^]
When Cole returned to the Santa Cruz Mountains in Spring 2018, he was ready to set off on his own. [^38^] He was determined to put impeccable farming above all else, which led him to Ken, who had specialized in viticulture after his own stint at Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard. [^38^] The two partnered up to launch Madson Wines with Abbey, Ken's wife, as their third collaborator. The winery was dubbed "Madson" after Cole's grandmother — it was her maiden name. [^38^]
Ken and Abbey brought formidable expertise. Ken founded Rhizos Viticulture, specializing in organic vineyard management in the Santa Cruz Mountains, and has a hand in at least 90% of the fruit Madson brings in. [^38^] Between them, they manage over 100 vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA and Santa Clara Valley — giving Madson insider access to some of the most cherished tiny vineyards in the area. [^43^] Abbey has worked at wineries across Santa Cruz, including in the cellar and lab at Bonny Doon, and currently farms Ascona Vineyard with Ken. [^38^] [^41^]
"There has been notable growth at Madson in a remarkably short period since my last tasting, resulting in a classy and precise lineup of wines that express a diverse range of terroirs spanning the Santa Cruz Mountains."
— Matthew Luczy, The Wine Advocate, August 2025
Leased Vineyards, Organic Farming & 100% Carbon Neutral
Madson's farming philosophy is built on three pillars: organic viticulture, minimal cellar intervention, and environmental responsibility. The team leases vineyards throughout the Santa Cruz Mountains, enabling them to take full control over vineyard management. [^38^] Their farming practices are entirely organic, and they have helped transition many vineyards they lease away from conventional farming. [^38^]
The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA is uniquely challenging. Established in 1981, it covers three counties and over 300,000 acres, yet very little wine comes from there. [^43^] Vineyards start at approximately 400-foot elevation and run to the top of the ridge at 2,600 feet. The average vineyard size is tiny — most are scattered on hillsides in people's front and back yards, done entirely by hand. [^43^] There are roughly 200 vineyards farming approximately 1,500 acres of vines — an incredible mix of grapes, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir prevalent, but also some of the state's best Cabernet, Merlot, and Zinfandel. [^43^]
Madson has gone one step further with a pledge to operate at 100% carbon neutral. [^38^] Winery production and shipping unavoidably emit greenhouse gases, so they have partnered with TerraPass to plant trees to offset these emissions. [^38^] This commitment reflects their holistic approach — wine is not separate from the environment that produces it.
Ken's expertise in the vineyard allows Cole to keep intervention to a minimum in the cellar. [^38^] All fermentations occur naturally and spontaneously, oftentimes with the use of pied de cuves — a technique where a small starter fermentation from the vineyard is used to inoculate the main batch. [^38^] Cole once even let fermentations kick off in plastic bins in the middle of the vineyard to prove the quality of their fruit and call attention to the unique native yeasts present. [^38^] With each bottling, the focus remains on highlighting the purity of fruit and sense of place. The only manipulation is a tiny addition of sulfur at bottling — kept under 25 ppm. Wines are generally bottled without fining or filtration. [^38^]
All leased vineyards are farmed entirely organically. Madson has helped transition many sites away from conventional farming since taking over management. [^38^]
Madson has partnered with TerraPass to plant trees and offset all greenhouse gas emissions from winery production and shipping. [^38^]
All fermentations are spontaneous, often using pied de cuves. Cole has even started fermentations in plastic bins in the vineyard to showcase native yeast quality. [^38^]
The only cellar addition is a tiny amount of sulfur dioxide at bottling — kept under 25 ppm. Wines are generally unfined and unfiltered. [^38^]
Whole Cluster, Neutral Oak & Barrel Fermentation
Madson's winemaking is precise, thoughtful, and constantly evolving. Cole Thomas has moved completely away from tank fermentation, preferring the complexity and nuances of barrel fermentation. [^42^] "For each vineyard, we'll have multiple fermentations, instead of just a single one," he explains. "At our scale, there's no reason to take any short cuts!" [^42^]
The Pinot Noir program is the heart of Madson. Depending on the vintage and the vineyard, whole cluster percentages vary. During the drought years, when ripe fruit flavors were prominent, they used 100% whole cluster to add savory complexity. [^42^] In cooler, wetter seasons like 2023, they have backed off whole cluster because the vegetative growth and cooler conditions already provide enough savory character. [^42^] This flexibility — reading the vintage and adjusting accordingly — is the mark of a vigneron who understands his sites intimately.
The Chardonnay program has grown dramatically. In 2023, Madson made the most Chardonnay ever — 13.69 tons from 10 different vineyard sites, including Richard Hanke's Redwood Grade near Mt. Madonna, Ellison Vineyard, Soda Springs, Destiny Coyote Ranch (DCR), and Ascona Vineyard. [^42^] Cole has 8 barrels of DCR Chardonnay alone, each one a separate fermentation. "Every barrel is its own biosphere," he notes. [^42^] The Chardonnays are barrel-fermented in a cool cellar, racked to stainless steel after ~6 months, then bottled after ~4 more months. [^43^]
The Syrah program showcases the diversity of Santa Cruz Mountains terroir. The Ascona Syrah, from 2,500 feet elevation, undergoes whole-cluster fermentation before aging on fine lees in neutral French oak for a year. [^38^] The Red Tail Syrah comes from a tiny 3/4-acre vineyard at 1,600 feet — so steep they had to dig stairs into it — planted to the Estrella Côte-Rôtie clone in the 1990s. [^39^] [^43^] Only 50 cases are produced. The "Côte Blonde" Syrah is a blend from three chalky soil sites — Kessler-Haak in Sta. Rita Hills, plus Red Tail and Ascona — delivering nose-tingling aromatics of fresh blueberry, grilled meats, and crushed violets. [^39^]
Tino Paccione, Madson's Assistant Winemaker, joined for the second vintage in 2018. A former surf guide in Indonesia and line cook, Tino worked under Nathan Kandler at Thomas Fogarty Winery before finding his way to Madson. [^41^] He is inspired by the wines of the Northern Rhône Valley — specifically the Syrahs of Thierry Allemand and Jean-Michel Stéphan — bringing an additional layer of classical reference to the Madson cellar.
Branciforte Creek Vineyard — Heritage Clone Pinot Noir, 1863–1989
One of Madson's most remarkable sites, Branciforte Creek Vineyard was originally planted in 1863, ripped out during Prohibition, and replanted in 1989 to four acres of heritage-clone Pinot Noir originally for David Bruce Winery. [^38^] The site sits at 700 feet elevation on the mid-slope of the Santa Cruz Mountains in a sandstone basin. Old, rugged vines struggle to produce crops in the sandy climate, yielding cool-climate Pinot Noir that is dark, intense, savory, and floral. [^38^] Cole made Branciforte Creek Pinot Noir for Jeff Emery when he was just 21 — his very first wine. [^42^] Now, with Jeff Emery no longer taking fruit from the site, Madson carries on the legacy. The wine is made from small, native yeast ferments in open-top tanks, 100% whole cluster, aged nine months in neutral French oak, bottled without fining or filtration. Production averages ~4 barrels or 100 cases — a wine that can age nicely for years. [^38^]
The Madson Range
Madson Wines produces a focused portfolio of single-vineyard and appellation-blend wines from organic vineyards across the Santa Cruz Mountains and select Central Coast sites. All wines are fermented with native yeasts, receive minimal sulfur (under 25 ppm at bottling), and are generally bottled without fining or filtration. [^38^] The range emphasizes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah — the varieties that best express the cool, foggy, windswept terroir of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Prices are approximate and in USD.
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Address
Tasting Room: 328 Ingalls Street, Suite G, Santa Cruz, CA 95060
Retailers
Mission Wine & Spirits: https://www.missionliquor.com/collections/madson-wines
Tomorrow's Wine: https://tomorrowswine.com/collections/madson-wines
Keg N Bottle: https://kegnbottle.com/products/madson-pinot-noir-toyon-vineyard
K&L Wine Merchants: https://www.klwines.com/ (While a direct link to their Madson wines selection is not available, they are known to carry them. You may need to search their site.)
Saison Cellar: https://www.saisoncellar.com/product/detail/180945/