Masahiko Senda – Hitomi Winery (Shiga Prefecture)

Masahiko Senda is one of Japan’s longest-practicing natural winemakers, running Hitomi Winery near Lake Biwa in Shiga since 1991. A true pioneer, he embraced spontaneous fermentation and minimal additives long before “natural wine” became a movement.
The vineyards are farmed sustainably, using native hybrids like Delaware and Koshu alongside European varieties. Fermentations are spontaneous, aging often takes place in neutral oak, and wines are bottled unfiltered.
Hitomi Winery’s style is rustic, vibrant, and alive—marked by cloudy textures, orchard fruit aromas, and a touch of wildness. Senda’s decades of commitment to honest, low-intervention wine have inspired many younger Japanese producers who followed in his footsteps.

Hitomi Winery Overview

  • Location: Higashiomi City, Shiga Prefecture, Japan (south of Lake Biwa).

  • Founder: Reizo Zushi, the founder of an Osaka apparel company, established the winery in 1991 (having begun the project in 1984). He initially launched the winery alongside a museum to create a place for visitors to enjoy both art and wine.

Winemaking Philosophy and Signature Style

Hitomi Winery is known for its distinct approach that draws inspiration from Japanese traditions, particularly the turbidity (cloudiness) seen in some traditional beverages like unfiltered sake (Nigori).

  • Signature Style (Nigori Wine): The winery's signature is unfiltered, slightly cloudy wine, a style they call "nigori wine." They made the bold decision to produce all their wines in this cloudy style. This technique highlights the natural winemaking process and minimal intervention.

  • Minimal Intervention: Their philosophy is based on producing Japanese-style wine rather than imitating European wines. They use minimal intervention techniques and focus on natural winemaking.

  • Grapes: Hitomi Winery makes wine from 100% domestic Japanese grapes (grown in Shiga and other prefectures), making it an "agricultural product" and experimenting with cultivating their own grapes. They use a wide variety of grapes, including:

    • Delaware (often used for Orange Wine)

    • Steuben (used for sparkling rosé)

    • Other international and Japanese varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Syrah, and Muscat Bailey A.

  • Products: They produce a wide range of styles, including white, red, rosé, and are noted for their orange wines and slightly sparkling wines (like the signature "h3" sparkling wine). Each wine is produced in small batches (around 1,000 bottles per label).