Wines of Exceptional Quality With a Bit of Individual Style

Dr Bailey Carrodus was one of a handful of winemakers who brought the Yarra Valley back to the grape in the 1970s after its first, short-lived wine boom of the mid-1800s. [^347^] He was an influential pioneer of the modern era, inspiring a legion of winemakers including Tim Kirk of Clonakilla, who regarded Carrodus as "a brilliant, complex, determined individual" who taught him that making great wine was a task worth dedicating one's life to. [^347^]

Carrodus's path to wine was academic and unconventional. After his Master of Science in New Zealand, he was sent to Roseworthy College by the government to gain viticultural experience. [^347^] His doctorate at Oxford in plant physiology gave him a scientific rigour that he applied to every aspect of vineyard management. But it was his 1967 letter to The Age — defending European wine culture and arguing that Australians could learn from Mediterranean drinking habits — that changed his life. [^347^] Reg Egan, a young Melbourne lawyer who had planted Wantirna Estate in 1963, read the letter and contacted Carrodus. They met at Jimmy Watson's wine bar and immediately bonded over their shared love of French wine. [^347^]

In 1968, they bought 12 hectares in Gruyere. By 1969, it was planted to Chardonnay, members of the Cabernet family, Shiraz, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Marsanne. [^347^] Carrodus called it Yarra Yering — a name that has become synonymous with Yarra Valley excellence. The first commercial vintage was 1973. The business relationship with Egan did not endure, but the friendship did. [^347^]

Yarra Yering had no marketing budget. Wine lovers had to seek it out, lining up one weekend a year to buy directly from the winery. [^347^] The two "flagships" — Dry Red No. 1 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot) and Dry Red No. 2 (Shiraz, Viognier, Marsanne) — became cult wines. For a long while, Carrodus didn't even tell people what was in the blends. [^341^] The No. 1 was the more structured wine; the No. 2 was softer, more fleshy, and fruitier. [^341^]

Carrodus was capable of surprise. In the 1990s, he created Dry Red No. 3 using Portuguese varieties — Tinta Cão, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, and Alvarelhão — in a dry red style. [^347^] [^348^] He also planted Italian varieties including Sangiovese and Barbera. [^347^] In 1990, he released a Merlot at $100 a bottle — then one of the most expensive red wines in Australia — a decision his assistant winemaker Mark Haisma described as "pure indulgence." [^347^] Carrodus's philosophy on life was simple: "Live as though you may die tomorrow and farm as though you will live forever." [^347^]

Sarah Crowe arrived at Yarra Yering in 2013 with a clear brief from the new owners: "Just be very respectful of the history and carry on making the very best wines that we can today." [^341^] She has done exactly that — while also evolving the style in ways that honour Carrodus's legacy without being imprisoned by it.

Sarah's background is in viticulture, not traditional winemaking. She grew up in Wollongong, studied horticulture, and accidentally fell into wine after seeing a French vineyard while travelling in 1999. [^346^] She called Brokenwood because she liked their Cricket Pitch, ended up pruning for five weeks, and stayed for nine years — completing a viticulture degree, working under PJ Charteris, and winning Rising Star of the Year in 2009. [^346^] She did vintages in Oregon (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at Adelsheim and Ponzi) and the Rhône Valley (Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Shiraz with Paul Jaboulet Aîné). [^340^] [^346^]

Her approach at Yarra Yering is all about transparency. "I want to highlight the vineyard and not the winemaking," she says. [^346^] She introduced screw caps, bought a new destemmer (the old one had been used since 1969), invested in a softer press, and extended the sorting process at harvest. [^341^] [^346^] She uses less new oak than Carrodus did, bottles earlier to preserve primary fruit, and has introduced whole-bunch fermentation and cold soaking to heighten aromatics and bring a lightness of touch. [^341^] [^346^]

The wines have become more transparent — "you can see the detail in the wine," Sarah says. [^341^] The Chardonnays are crystalline and saline, with no malolactic fermentation, letting the fruit shine through. [^341^] The Pinots are perfumed and aromatic, with whole-bunch components adding structure without heaviness. [^325^] The Dry Red No. 1 remains the structured flagship; the No. 2 the softer, fleshier Rhône-inspired blend; and the No. 3 continues to explore Portuguese varieties in a dry red style. [^348^]

Sarah's philosophy is simple: "Drink less, drink better." [^346^] She won't drink bad wine, bad coffee, or shitty bread — and she brings that same uncompromising standard to every bottle that leaves Yarra Yering. "The best wines do not come easily, but they should look effortless." [^345^]