Microbio Wines (Ismael Gozalo)

Microbio Wines is the intensely personal and experimental natural wine project of legendary Spanish viticulturist Ismael Gozalo. Coined by some as "El Mago de las Verdejos" (The Wizard of Verdejo), Ismael is a fifth-generation winemaker who embodies a deep connection to his land and an unwavering commitment to purity and traditional methods, creating wines of immense character and vitality.

The Winemaker & Philosophy

The name "Microbio" (Micro-Bio) reflects Ismael's core belief: focusing on the microbial life in the vineyard and cellar, and embracing the "bio-logic" of nature.

• Radical Naturalism: Ismael rejects all chemicals in the vineyard and cellar. His wines are characterized by spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and are typically unfined, unfiltered, and bottled with no or minimal added sulfur dioxide (SO2).

• Experimental Approach: He is a master of varied aging methods, utilizing everything from large, old Mosel fudres (casks) and amphorae to small barrels and glass demijohns buried underground, all to express different facets of the grape and terroir.

• Outside the Rules: He operates intentionally outside the traditional D.O. (Designation of Origin) system, choosing instead to label his wines simply as Vinos de España (Wines of Spain), prioritizing freedom and authenticity over regulation.

Terroir: Nieva, Segovia

While often associated with Madrid due to its proximity (about an hour's drive north), Microbio is firmly rooted in Nieva, a small village in the Segovia province of Castilla y León.

• Ancient Vines: Ismael is the custodian of some of the most ancient vines in Europe, including pre-phylloxera Verdejo vines—some 150 to nearly 300 years old—that survived the plague due to the area's deep, protective sandy soils.

• High Altitude: The vineyards sit at a high altitude of 800–900 meters (2,600–3,000 feet), creating a challenging continental climate that results in highly concentrated grapes with natural freshness.

• The Cellar: The magic happens in a converted, centuries-old underground cellar of a former medieval monastery in Nieva.

Signature Wines

While Ismael experiments constantly, his focus is primarily on the native white grape Verdejo, which he expresses in diverse styles:

• Microbio Blanco: The flagship pure Verdejo, often aged in large format oak.

• Correcaminos Blanco: A lively, refreshing, and approachable expression of Verdejo.

• Nieva York: A playful range of ancestral method sparkling wines (Pét-Nats).

• Orange Wines: Notable skin-contact Verdejo bottlings like Brutal and Kilómetro 0.