MicroBioWinesIsmael Gozalo
The Wizard of Verdejo. Pre-phylloxera vines up to 273 years old, ungrafted on sandy soils at 900 meters—practicing biosynergies in the República Independiente del Verdejo.
From the family's Viñedos de Nieva to founding Ossian to the República Independiente—Ismael's journey to wine freedom.
Ismael Gozalo Palomo represents the fifth generation of winegrowers in Nieva, a small village in the province of Segovia (Castilla y León). His family operated Viñedos de Nieva, the leading producer in the area, where Ismael learned the traditions of his ancestors. But Ismael had bigger dreams—dreams that couldn't be contained within the family business.
In 1998, while still working with his family, Ismael founded MicroBioWines as a side project to experiment with "bio wines"—bottlings that would respect the ancient vines and sandy soils of Nieva without chemical intervention. Then in 2004, he partnered with Javier Zaccagnini (of Aalto fame) to launch Ossian, aiming to extract the huge potential of Nieva's ungrafted, old Verdejo vines. From the start, Ossian's wines were considered among Spain's best whites, and Ismael's reputation grew.
When Zaccagnini sold his share to Pago de Carraovejas, Ismael left the company he had founded to focus entirely on MicroBio. Despite his departure, he still sells 75-80% of his grapes to Ossian, reserving only 20-25% for his own wines. Today, he works 5 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, characterized by sandy soils that allowed pre-phylloxera vines to survive while the rest of Rueda was replanted. His "young" vines are 140 years old; his oldest are 273 years old this year.
"Biosynergies"—before Steiner there was Pliny the Elder, and before "natural" there was simply wine.
Ismael doesn't practice biodynamics in the conventional sense—he practices "biosynergies" (bio-synergias). "Before Steiner and biodynamics was Pliny the Elder—he always talked about biosynergy, not about biodynamics," Ismael explains. This philosophy centers on observation, patience, and working with the natural rhythms of the vineyard rather than imposing a rigid system. "We observe and be quiet. Relax and take time. And only then do the things that we need to do in the vines. Never do things automatically. Each vine has his own work."
He rejects the term "natural wine" as a marketing category, preferring to let the wine speak for itself. His wines are certified organic, but you won't see "bio," "biodynamic," or "eco" on his labels. "For us the viticulture must be pure," he insists. "When you don't do this kind of viticulture you are a liar—you need to put cross and bones. This wine is a f*****g chemical wine." This binary philosophy—wine versus chemical wine—cuts through the marketing noise to focus on what's in the bottle.
In the medieval underground cellar (his father's family has made wine for five generations; his mother's for three), Ismael works with tinajas (Spanish amphorae) that are up to 250 years old and 1800 liters in capacity. His grandparents never used barrels or steel tanks—only tinajas. Today he uses a mix of vessels: tinajas buried underground, old Mosel foudres, glass demijohns, stainless steel, and used barrels. Temperature control is crucial—his underground cellar maintains 13°C, and he never presses grapes above 12°C to preserve volatile aromatics.
El Mago
Nieva—sand, silica and ancient sea beds at 900 meters, where phylloxera never arrived.
Years Old
Ismael's oldest vines are 273 years old—planted in the mid-18th century, before the United States existed as a nation. These pre-phylloxera vines are ungrafted, growing on their own rootstock as they have for nearly three centuries. Only 4 of his 7-person team are trusted to prune these ancient vines, as open wounds can introduce virus and bacteria.
Soils
Sandy, siliceous soils with calcareous layers and pebbles—soils that prevented the phylloxera louse from spreading. While Rueda was almost entirely replanted in the early 20th century, Nieva's sandier soils acted as a natural barrier, preserving original rootstock. The ancient sea bed (Tethys Sea, 180 million years ago) provides ideal pH and organic matter.
Extreme Climate
Continental climate at 800-900 meters elevation. Summer temperatures reach 40°C; winters drop to -17°C. This extreme variation creates thick-skinned, concentrated grapes while preserving acidity. The altitude moderates the heat, creating fresh, vibrant wines despite the ripeness. Long harvests (6-7 weeks) allow for multiple pickings at optimal ripeness.
From the classic line to the experimental range—Verdejo in all its manifestations, from ancestral pet-nats to orange wines.
La Banda del Argílico
"The Argillic Band"—named for the clay layers at 40-50cm depth where microbes maintain soil freshness. From two vineyard sites with clay-banded sandy soils, 140-year-old ungrafted Verdejo. Fermented and aged in steel. Marked umami notes, almost replicating the flavor of the soil—raw almonds, citrus, and that distinctive Nieva salinity. The entry point to Ismael's classic range (~€25-30).
Sin Nombre
"Unnamed"—Ismael's more classical expression, displaying the minerality and cellaring potential of old-vine Verdejo. Aged longer, more reductive, with subtle oxidative notes developing over time. Ethereal and fine, with lovely mid-palate texture. Shows that Verdejo can age gracefully when handled with respect. Limited production (~€35-45).
ResPublica Verdejo
The "Republic"—Ismael's top traditional Verdejo, sourced from his finest plots (formerly destined for Ossian's El Capitel). Fermented with indigenous yeasts, aged in large old foudres. Complex, layered, with incredible depth and the full spectrum of Verdejo's potential. Considered among the finest expressions of the variety in Spain (~€50-60).
Nieva York
The pét-nat (pétillant naturel)—Ismael's "New York" bubbles. Made from early-harvest Verdejo (11.5% alcohol) fermented with low turbidity and cool temperatures. Bottled mid-fermentation to capture CO2, aged on lees, then disgorged à la volée. Fine, persistent bubbles, mandarin, pear, yeast, and yellow apple. Fresh, explosive, and fun. "Good bubbles = good moments" (~€17-22).
Kilómetro 0 "El Origen"
"Kilometer 0"—Ismael's homage to the origin of wine (Georgia, Armenia, Turkey, 9,000-10,000 years ago). Verdejo fermented and aged 6-9 months on skins in buried amphorae (tinajas). Whole cluster fermentation. Tannic and powerful, with dried fruit, baking spice, orange peel oil, and soft tannins. The full skin-contact expression of Verdejo (~€22-28).
Issée
From a single 0.58-hectare parcel of 150-year-old vines on calcareous sandy soils at 900m. Direct press, slow spontaneous fermentation in buried amphora at low temperature with indigenous yeasts. Aged 12 months in amphora, then another year in stainless steel. Bottled unfined, unfiltered, zero SO2. Chewy, savory, with cherry and almond notes. The purest amphora expression (~€30-40).
Frágil
"Fragile"—the most delicate, subtle, and sharp wine in the range. Racking must with low turbidity into 16-liter glass demijohns for fermentation at constant 13°C in the underground cellar. The low temperature preserves primary aromas during slow fermentation. Aged on lees in glass—no oak, no steel, just glass. "100% green, 100% vine in glass, 100% pre-phylloxera, 100% harmonic culture." Only 380 bottles and 3 magnums per year (~€50-60).
Rack
A "radical preparation" working with high turbidity in a reductive environment. Cloudy musts fermented in stainless steel with fine CO2 bubbles added to maintain turbidity. No batonnage, no racking until bottling in mid-March. A challenging, extreme wine "with balls"—for those seeking new experiences. Self-protected by reduction rather than sulfur (~€30-35).
Sin Rumbo
"Without Direction" or "Aimless"—intentionally oxidized during pressing to show volatile acidity and the extreme edge of Verdejo. Pushed to its limits, this wine divides opinion and expands boundaries. For Ismael, it's about exploring the elasticity of the variety—how far can Verdejo go before it breaks? A wine for the adventurous (~€28-35).
Tentados
Similar to Kilómetro 0 but with a key difference: destemmed grapes (not whole cluster) fermented in amphora. The contrast between whole-cluster Kilómetro 0 and destemmed Tentados showcases how tannin and structure differ when stems are removed. Both aged 6-9 months in tinajas. A study in technique and texture (~€25-30).
Livre
Ismael's expansion beyond Verdejo—Mencía from schist soils in Corullón, Bierzo. Shows his ability to work with other Galician varieties while maintaining his philosophy of purity and non-intervention. Fresh, Atlantic-influenced red with the elegance of high-altitude Bierzo (~€30-35).
Rufián
Rufete from the Sierra de Salamanca (Castilla y León)—a rare, nearly extinct variety that Ismael is helping to preserve. Light, aromatic, with wild strawberry and herbal notes. Shows the diversity of his project beyond Verdejo and his commitment to saving forgotten grapes (~€28-35).
El Mago de las Verdejos
Ismael Gozalo has earned the nickname "El Mago de las Verdejos" (The Wizard of Verdejo) for good reason. In a region dominated by industrial production, chemical farming, and homogenized "tropical fruit" Verdejo, he has proven that the variety is capable of profound complexity, longevity, and expression. His medieval underground cellar contains multitudes: tinajas older than the United States, foudres from the Mosel, glass demijohns, and stainless steel—a laboratory where ancient tradition meets fearless experimentation.
But perhaps his greatest legacy is his rejection of dogma—both industrial and "natural." By refusing labels like "organic," "biodynamic," or "natural" on his bottles, he forces the drinker to engage with the wine itself, not the marketing. His binary philosophy—wine versus chemical wine—cuts through the noise. When you taste his 273-year-old vine Verdejo, fermented in a 250-year-old tinaja, you understand that some things transcend categories. You are tasting continuity—a living bridge between Pliny the Elder's biosynergies and the future of wine.
- 5th generation winegrower
- Pre-phylloxera vines (1730s-1850s)
- Ungrafted/rootstock-free vines
- Biosynergies (not biodynamics)
- Medieval underground cellar
- 250-year-old amphorae (tinajas)
- No "natural wine" labels
- 20-25% kept for MicroBio (rest to Ossian)
- Extreme climate viticulture (-17°C to 40°C)
- Multi-region projects (Bierzo, Salamanca)