Vinos MalaparteElisa & Rubén
Wines with soul. Elisa de Frutos and Rubén Salamanca craft experimental natural wines from 900 meters in Cuéllar—using tinajas, old barrels, and ancient techniques to capture the essence of Castilla.
From Madrid and Zamora to Cuéllar—how two young viticultores created wines with soul since 2004.
When Elisa de Frutos (born 1981 in Madrid) and Rubén Salamanca (born 1982 in Zamora) decided to make wine together, they were barely in their twenties. In 2004, they founded Vinos Malaparte in Cuéllar, a historic town in the province of Segovia, Castilla y León. With no family inheritance of vineyards or winery, they started from scratch—purchasing 5.5 hectares of property vineyards and building their bodega with their own hands.
Their philosophy was clear from the beginning: to make "vinos con alma" (wines with soul). They established their bodega in the Casa de Cordero, a historic building in Cuéllar, equipping it with traditional materials—tinajas (clay amphorae), old barrels, and cement tanks. They chose organic viticulture (though never seeking certification) and committed to minimal intervention in the cellar.
Today, they work 12 hectares total—5.5 hectares of property vines plus 6.5 hectares of leased old vineyards, all within a 10km radius of the bodega. Their vineyards sit at 900 meters altitude on the páramo (high plateau), where sandy soils, extreme temperature variations, and nearly 3,000 hours of annual sunshine create ideal conditions for concentrated, fresh wines. They produce 15,000-25,000 bottles annually across 15-20 different cuvees, each vinified separately to express its specific terroir.
"Vinos con alma"—wines with soul, made with organic viticulture and ancient techniques in tinajas and old barrels.
Malaparte's philosophy centers on respect for the grape and the land. They practice organic viticulture—not as a certification to display on labels, but as a genuine commitment to soil health and biodiversity. The extreme climate of Cuéllar (very hot days, cold nights) naturally reduces pest pressure, allowing them to avoid pesticides and herbicides. Cover crops are maintained between rows, and all vineyard work is done by hand.
In the cellar, they employ a fascinating array of traditional and experimental techniques. They use tinajas (Spanish clay amphorae) for fermenting and aging—the same vessels their grandparents used. They work with old barrels of various sizes (from 225L barriques to larger foudres) and cement tanks. They favor whole-bunch fermentation with stems, believing that "the contribution of the stem tannins helps to build the structure of our wines, bringing greater complexity and elegance, and enhancing their longevity."
All wines ferment with native yeasts and are bottled with very low sulfites (often 12-15 mg/L total SO2, compared to the 150 mg/L permitted by EU organic regulations). They never add acids, enzymes, tannins, or other enological products. The wines are bottled without filtration or clarification, outside the DO Ribera del Duero as Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León—allowing them freedom to experiment with varieties and techniques.
Tinajas & Tradition
Cuéllar—sandy soils and extreme climate at 900 meters on the Castilian plateau.
High Plateau
The vineyards sit at 900 meters altitude on the páramo (high plateau) of Cuéllar. This elevation provides crucial diurnal temperature variation—very hot days (up to 35-40°C) and cold nights (dropping to 10-15°C). This extreme shift preserves acidity while allowing grapes to ripen fully.
Soils
Predominantly sandy soils with some clay content, poor in organic matter and highly permeable. These soils stress the vines, producing small berries with thick skins and concentrated flavors. The sand also provides a natural defense against phylloxera, allowing some old vines to survive on their own roots.
Sunshine
Cuéllar receives nearly 3,000 hours of sunshine annually, among the highest in the region. This intense sunlight, combined with the altitude and sandy soils, creates wines of remarkable concentration and power, yet with fresh acidity due to the cold nights.
From the flagship Espantalobos to the ancestral method Ancestral—15 labels of experimental Castilian soul.
Espantalobos
The flagship wine and the one that put Malaparte on the map—100% Tempranillo from estate vineyards at 900m. Hand-harvested, fermented with native yeasts in a mix of tinajas and old barrels. Aged 12 months in used French and American oak. Dark fruit, spice, earthy notes with the characteristic freshness of high-altitude Tempranillo. The name ("Wolf-scarer") references traditional vineyard guardians (~€15-20).
Las Lomas
A blend of Tempranillo with small amounts of Syrah and other varieties from estate vineyards. Fermented in cement tanks with some whole bunches, aged in old barrels. More approachable than Espantalobos, with bright red fruit, herbal notes, and a juicy, food-friendly profile. Named after the hills (lomas) where the vineyards sit (~€12-16).
Montón de Piñas
Tempranillo with Merlot (and possibly other varieties) from selected parcels. Fermented in cement with stem inclusion, aged in used barrels. The name ("Bunch of Pine Cones") refers to the traditional way of measuring grape harvests. Ripe fruit, soft tannins, and the earthy character that defines Malaparte's reds (~€12-16).
The New Wave Girl
100% Verdejo from estate vineyards, fermented and aged on skins for extended periods (several weeks to months) in tinajas or old barrels. This is Malaparte's orange wine—amber-colored, textural, with notes of apricot, dried herbs, and tea. The name references the "new wave" of natural wine while honoring feminine energy (~€18-24).
Ancestral
A pétillant naturel (ancestral method sparkling wine) made from Verdejo and/or Albillo. Hand-harvested, fermented with native yeasts in steel or tinajas, bottled before fermentation completes to capture natural CO2. Unfiltered, unfined, with sediment in the bottle. Fresh, lively, with citrus and orchard fruit. The label depicts an owl in reference to the bird's nocturnal habits during harvest (~€15-18).
Uvas Nómadas
Viura (Macabeo) from estate vineyards or sourced from nearby areas. Fermented and aged in tinajas or old barrels, often with some skin contact but less than The New Wave Girl. Textural, aromatic, with white peach, citrus, and almond notes. The name ("Nomad Grapes") references the wandering nature of winemaking and grape growing (~€15-18).
Clarete
A traditional clarete style—co-fermented red and white grapes (likely Tempranillo and Albillo or Viura), resulting in a light-colored, fresh wine. Short maceration, fermented in tinajas or steel. Pale salmon color, red berry fruit, floral notes, and crisp acidity. A tribute to the historic clarete wines of Castilla (~€12-15).
Albillo Real
100% Albillo Real from estate vineyards, fermented and aged in tinajas or old barrels. This indigenous Castilian variety (now almost extinct in many areas) produces wines with body, texture, and notes of honey, nuts, and stone fruit. Malaparte's version is savory, mineral, and complex (~€18-22).
Vino de Pueblo / Vino de Parcela
Experimental cuvees that change by vintage—Vino de Pueblo (village wine) blends from multiple sites, while Vino de Parcela (single vineyard) expresses specific terroirs. These wines showcase Malaparte's willingness to experiment with different varieties (Garnacha, Syrah, experimental plantings) and techniques. Always unique, always evolving (~€15-25).
La Brenca
100% Garnacha from old vines, treated with the same care as their Tempranillo wines. Fermented with stems in tinajas or cement, aged in old barrels. Lighter in color than the Tempranillo-based wines, with red fruit, spice, and floral notes. Shows the versatility of Garnacha in the Cuéllar climate (~€18-22).
Parcela Única / Special Selections
Occasional special bottlings from unique parcels or exceptional vintages. These might include whole-cluster, foot-trodden wines, extended maceration experiments, or long-aged reserves. Always limited production, often only available at the cellar door or to mailing list subscribers. Showcase the extremes of what Elisa and Rubén can achieve (~€25-35).
The Soul of Castilla
Vinos Malaparte represents a bridge between tradition and experimentation in the heart of Castilla y León. While many producers in the region chase points and Parkerization with over-extracted, over-oaked wines, Elisa and Rubén have steadfastly pursued a different path—one that honors the tinaja, the old vine, and the natural balance of the vineyard.
Their project is deeply personal. Starting from nothing in 2004, they have built a winery that produces 15-20 distinct cuvees annually, each expressing a different facet of their sandy, high-altitude terroir. They have rescued old vineyards from abandonment, revived nearly extinct varieties like Albillo Real, and introduced natural wine techniques (ancestral method, orange wines, pét-nats) to a region that had forgotten them.
But perhaps most importantly, they have proven that "wines with soul" can also be wines of serious quality and longevity. Their Espantalobos ages gracefully for 5-10 years; their Ancestral sparklers develop complexity in the cellar; their orange wines evolve like Jura vin jaune. In doing so, they have become reference points for a new generation of Castilian winemakers who seek authenticity over homogenization. As they say: "Wines with soul, made with the soul."
- Founded 2004 by young entrepreneurs (ages 23 & 22)
- 12 hectares (5.5 property + 6.5 leased)
- 900m altitude on Castilian plateau
- Organic viticulture (non-certified)
- Tinajas (clay amphorae) for fermentation & aging
- Whole-bunch fermentation with stems
- Very low sulfites (12-15 mg/L vs 150 mg/L limit)
- No filtration or clarification
- Vino de la Tierra (outside DO)
- 15-20 different cuvees annually
- Ancestral method sparkling (pét-nat)
- Orange wines with extended skin contact