The Kardenakhi Hills & the Great-Grandfather's Cellar

The story of Nikalas Marani begins in 1928, when Nikala Mghvdliashvili — the great-grandfather of the current winemaker — built a stone cellar in the village of Kardenakhi, in the Gurjaani municipality of Kakheti, Georgia. This was not the founding of a commercial enterprise in the modern sense; it was the construction of a family sanctuary, a marani that would serve as the spiritual and practical heart of the Mghvdliashvili family's wine tradition for generations to come. Kardenakhi was already known as one of Kakheti's most prestigious viticultural micro-zones — a place where the combination of elevation, soil, and climate produced grapes of extraordinary quality, and where families had been making wine since before recorded history. Nikala's cellar was built to last, constructed from stone and earth, with qvevris buried deep in the ground to maintain the stable temperatures that natural fermentation demands.

For nearly a century, the Mghvdliashvili family has maintained this tradition, passing down knowledge from father to son in the oral tradition that has preserved Georgian viticulture for 8,000 years. Through the Soviet era — when private winemaking was suppressed and industrial production dominated — the family continued to make wine for personal consumption, keeping the ancient methods alive in the privacy of their marani. The qvevris remained buried, the recipes remained unwritten, and the commitment to natural, additive-free wine remained unshaken. This was not resistance through politics; it was resistance through persistence — the quiet, stubborn refusal to abandon what had always worked, what had always been true, what had always been Georgian.

The current custodian of this legacy is Zurab Mghvdliashvili, the great-grandson of Nikala, who has revived and modernised the estate while preserving its foundational commitment to tradition. Under Zurab's leadership, Nikalas Marani has transitioned from a family cellar producing wine for personal consumption to a recognised natural wine producer with international distribution, while maintaining the same methods that his great-grandfather established in 1928. The original stone-built winery remains central to production — not as a museum piece, but as a working cellar where qvevris are filled every autumn, where wild yeasts ferment the must every winter, and where the wines of Kardenakhi are born every year in the same way they have been for nearly 100 years.

The estate's philosophy is guided by a deep respect for the natural environment and the authenticity of Georgian wine heritage. The Mghvdliashvili family views the integration of scientific precision and ancestral practice as essential to sustaining the quality and reputation of Georgian qvevri wines in the modern era. This is not a rejection of modernity, nor a romanticisation of the past; it is a pragmatic recognition that the best wines come from the healthiest vineyards, the gentlest handling, and the least manipulation — principles that were proven correct long before they were given names like "organic" or "natural." The goal, as Zurab expresses it, is to interfere as little as possible in both the winemaking process and vineyard maintenance — to let the grape, the soil, and the qvevri do what they have done for 8,000 years, with only the watchful eye and gentle hand of the vigneron to guide them.

Since its modern revival, Nikalas Marani has grown into a respected name in Georgian natural wine, with wines distributed internationally through natural wine specialists and featured at tastings and festivals around the world. The estate welcomes visitors to Kardenakhi — to taste the wines, to tour the historic cellar, to walk the vineyards, and to experience the traditional Georgian hospitality that has defined the Mghvdliashvili family for four generations. Whether for small intimate groups or larger gatherings, the family offers wine tastings and dinners that combine the fruits of their labour with the warmth of their home — an experience that is as much about culture as it is about wine, as much about heritage as it is about taste.

At Nikalas Marani, the winemaking philosophy is one of precise low intervention and maximum terroir expression — a commitment to allowing the distinct character of Kardenakhi's indigenous varieties and the quality of organic fruit to shine through with the least possible manipulation, guided by both ancestral wisdom and modern enological rigour. All wines are produced in traditional qvevris — large, egg-shaped clay amphorae buried underground to maintain natural temperature stability during fermentation and ageing. The winery utilises both whole-cluster and destemmed fermentations, depending on varietal and stylistic intent. Fermentations are spontaneous, relying solely on indigenous yeasts. Skin contact durations range from 3 to 6 months for amber wines, depending on the grape and vintage conditions. No fining or filtration is employed, and minimal sulfur dioxide is used only at bottling. Temperature and oxygen management are closely monitored, and each batch is vinified separately to preserve site expression before final blending and bottling. This is not rustic natural wine; it is precision natural wine — tradition elevated by science, science humbled by tradition.

The vinification process is meticulous and deeply rooted in Kakhetian tradition, yet informed by a modern understanding of fermentation science. The grapes are hand-harvested from organic vineyards across the five villages, then crushed and transferred to the buried qvevris for fermentation. For white and amber wines, the Kakhetian method is employed: the juice ferments together with skins, seeds, and stems for an extended period — typically 3 to 6 months — creating the amber (orange) wines that have become Georgia's most distinctive contribution to the global wine scene. For red wines, the Saperavi remains in contact with the pomace for an extended period, extracting colour, tannins, and aromatic compounds that define the dense, powerful character of this teinturier variety. The qvevris, buried deep in the earth, maintain stable temperature and humidity throughout the year, providing the perfect environment for natural fermentation and ageing without the need for technological intervention.

A defining feature of the Nikalas Marani approach is the combination of whole-cluster and destemmed fermentations, depending on the variety and the desired style. Whole-cluster fermentation — where grapes are fermented with their stems intact — adds structure, spice, and a distinct herbal complexity that complements certain varieties and vintages. Destemmed fermentation — where grapes are separated from their stems before fermentation — produces wines of greater softness, fruit purity, and immediate accessibility. Zurab makes these decisions based on the condition of the fruit, the characteristics of the vintage, and the stylistic direction he envisions for each wine. This is not formulaic winemaking; it is responsive, intuitive, and deeply attuned to the material at hand — the kind of decision-making that can only come from decades of experience and a profound connection to the vineyard.

"Rkatsiteli" — The Amber Backbone: The Rkatsiteli is Nikalas Marani's flagship and most widely produced wine — the backbone of the estate's production, made from Georgia's most planted white grape with the traditional Kakhetian method of extended skin contact in qvevri. Depending on the vintage and stylistic intent, it may be fermented whole-cluster or destemmed, with skin contact ranging from 3 to 6 months. In the glass, it is deep amber with a slight natural haze. The nose offers dried apricot, golden apple, sweet tea, honey, and a distinct mineral note that speaks of the Kardenakhi loamy soils. The palate is full-bodied, with pronounced tannins, high acidity, and a long, savoury, mineral finish. It is a serious wine for serious drinkers — the liquid expression of a micro-zone that has been producing exceptional wine for millennia, filtered through nearly 100 years of Mghvdliashvili family expertise. Serve at 14–16°C. Age 5–10 years. ~€16–€24 / ~$18–$26 USD.

"Saperavi" — The Dense Red: The Saperavi is Nikalas Marani's great red — a qvevri-aged wine made from the teinturier grape with red flesh and red juice, the most important indigenous red variety of Kakheti. Fermented with native yeasts and aged in qvevri with extended maceration, it develops a wine of remarkable depth, natural tannins, and bright acidity that balances its dark power. The Budeshuri clone — a lighter-coloured variant of Saperavi — is particularly prized at Nikalas Marani, producing wines that are plummy with hints of smoke and sweet spice, aged in qvevri to bring an earthy, mineral dimension that complements the variety's natural fruit character. In the glass, it is deep ruby to purple with garnet reflections. The nose offers blackberry, plum, smoke, sweet spice, and a distinct earthy undertone from the Kardenakhi soils. The palate is full-bodied, with firm but ripe tannins, high acidity, and a long, complex, savoury finish. Serve at 16–18°C. Decant if possible. Age 5–12 years. ~€18–€28 / ~$20–$30 USD.

"Kisi" — The Aromatic Amber: The Kisi is one of Nikalas Marani's most distinctive and texturally complex amber wines — made from the Kisi grape, an indigenous Kakhetian variety known for its floral aromatics and its capacity to develop extraordinary complexity with extended skin contact. Fermented in qvevri with 3 to 6 months of maceration, it produces a wine of deep amber hue, pronounced phenolic grip, and a bouquet that evolves continuously in the glass. In the glass, it is deep amber-gold with bright clarity. The nose offers orange blossom, dried apricot, honey, wildflowers, and a distinct spicy note that speaks of the variety's genetic richness. The palate is full-bodied, with firm tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, complex, lingering finish. It is a wine for the patient and the discerning — proof that Kisi, when handled with the precision that the Mghvdliashvili family brings to every decision, can produce expressions of genuine world-class quality. Serve at 12–14°C. Age 5–10 years. ~€18–€26 / ~$20–$28 USD.

"Mtsvane" — The Fresh, Citrus-Forward Amber: The Mtsvane is Nikalas Marani's brightest and most approachable amber wine — made from the Mtsvane grape, the "green" variety of Kakheti known for its high acidity and citrus character. Depending on the vintage, it may see brief skin contact for a fresher, more direct expression, or extended maceration for greater textural depth and phenolic complexity. Some vintages are made from free-run juice with no skin contact, producing a fresh, juicy wine with enticing aromas of citrus and herbs and rich texture on the palate. In the glass, it ranges from pale straw to light amber. The nose offers lemon, green apple, white flowers, and fresh herbs. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with vibrant acidity, a silky texture, and a long, clean, refreshing finish. It is the perfect introduction to the Nikalas Marani style — authentic, alive, and unmistakably Georgian. Serve at 10–12°C. Drink young. ~€14–€22 / ~$16–$24 USD.

"Khikhvi" — The Kardenakhi Signature: The Khikhvi is Nikalas Marani's most celebrated and micro-zone-specific wine — made from the Khikhvi grape, a variety for which Kardenakhi is particularly famous and that produces wines of extraordinary aromatic delicacy and honeyed complexity. Fermented in qvevri with extended skin contact, it is the liquid expression of the Kardenakhi terroir in its purest form — a wine that could not be made anywhere else, from any other variety, by any other hands. In the glass, it is deep amber with a slight haze. The nose is intoxicating — wild flowers, honey, dried apricot, orange blossom, and a distinct mineral note from the Kardenakhi soils. The palate is full-bodied, with gentle tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, ethereal, refreshing finish that seems to unfold in layers. It is a wine for the passionate — a taste of one of Kakheti's most treasured varieties, handled with the precision and patience that only a nearly-century-old family tradition can provide. Serve at 12–14°C. Drink young to medium term. ~€18–€26 / ~$20–$28 USD.

Vessels & The Cellar: The Nikalas Marani cellar in Kardenakhi is a place of living history — the original stone-built winery constructed by Nikala Mghvdliashvili in 1928, still central to production today. The qvevris are large, egg-shaped clay amphorae, lined with beeswax and buried deep in the ground — vessels that have been used in Georgia for 8,000 years and that provide the perfect environment for natural fermentation and ageing. The cellar is cool, dark, and quiet, with stable temperature and natural humidity throughout the year — the perfect environment for the slow, patient transformation of grape into wine. There is no stainless steel, no oak barrels, no temperature-controlled technology — just clay, earth, wild yeasts, and time. As Zurab tends his qvevris, monitoring fermentation, managing whole-cluster and destemmed batches, tasting evolution, and waiting for the precise moment when each wine is ready, he is not merely making wine; he is continuing a conversation that began with his great-grandfather in 1928, in the same village, in the same cellar, with the same earth beneath his feet — a conversation about family, place, and the enduring magic of wines that honour the name they carry and the tradition they preserve.