Napoli / Amalfi
Neapolitan Natural Wine & Coastal Vibes
From Naples' historic "decumani" wine bars pouring unfiltered Piedirosso and Falanghina to cliffside tastings in Furore and island vineyards on Ischia, the Campania natural wine scene blends volcanic terroir with Mediterranean swagger—expect "vini viventi" with your pizza, amphora-aged Greco di Tufo, and views of Vesuvius and the turquoise sea.
Napoli Centro Storico (The Ancient Heart)
The epicenter of Naples' natural wine revolution, located in the Spanish Quarter near the Toledo metro. Bandiera has achieved cult status for pairing natural "vini viventi" with exceptional pizza—a combination that Neapolitans initially found scandalous but now embrace enthusiastically. The space is tiny and chaotic: vintage posters of Maradona cover the walls, vinyl spins Neapolitan folk and indie rock, and the bar is stacked with unfiltered bottles from Campania's volcanic soils. The wine list focuses on "col fondo" (bottle-fermented) Falanghina, "sui lieviti" (on the lees) Greco di Tufo, and light, chillable Piedirosso (the "per'e palummo" or dove's foot grape). The pizza is "al padellino" (pan-style) and exceptional—try the "margherita con alici" (anchovies) with a cloudy glass of Cantina Giardino's "Fra." The atmosphere is young, loud, and energetic—students, artists, and old-school "napoletani" squeeze together, shouting over the music. No reservations; arrive at opening (19:00) or expect to queue on the steep street. The ultimate expression of contemporary Naples—ancient grapes, natural methods, punk rock attitude.
A bookstore that moonlights as a natural wine bar, Berisio occupies a historic space near Piazza Dante in the heart of the university district. By day, it's a serious bookshop specializing in art, philosophy, and poetry; by night (from 18:30), it transforms into an intimate "enoteca" with a focus on "vini artigianali" from Campania and beyond. The shelves double as wine racks—bottles of unfiltered Coda di Volpe and "orange" Trebbiano sit between volumes of Italian literature. The atmosphere is intellectual and relaxed—students debate philosophy over glasses of volcanic Biancolella, while writers type on laptops fueled by "caffè corretto" (coffee with wine, literally). Simple, perfect food: "taralli" with "salsiccia piccante," "bruschetta" with "pomodorini del Vesuvio" (Vesuvian cherry tomatoes), and "frittatina" (fried pasta balls). The outdoor seating on Via Port'Alba is ideal for watching the chaotic Naples traffic. No reservations; the limited indoor seating fills quickly, but the sidewalk is where the action is. A sanctuary for those who like their wine with culture.
Located on the romantic Borgo Marinari harbor beneath Castel dell'Ovo, Vino Vero brings natural wine culture to Naples' most picturesque waterfront setting. The terrace overlooks the marina filled with fishing boats and yachts, with Ves smoking gently in the background. The wine list is strictly "vini naturali" and biodynamic: "pét-nat" from the volcanic slopes of Vesuvius, unfiltered Fiano di Avellino from small Irpinia producers, and "glou-glou" Aglianico perfect for summer sipping. The food focuses on raw seafood—"crudo di mare"—that pairs beautifully with the mineral whites: oysters, red shrimp from Mazara, and "ricci di mare" (sea urchins) when available. The atmosphere is sophisticated but relaxed—families, couples, and wine geeks share tables under the umbrellas, watching the fishing boats unload their catch. The "frittura di paranza" (mixed fried fish) is light and perfect with a glass of "col fondo" Falanghina. No reservations for the terrace; arrive at 18:30 for the "aperitivo" golden hour when the light hits Vesuvius. The most scenic natural wine drinking in Naples proper.
Chiaia & Posillipo (The Elegant City)
The grand dame of Neapolitan wine bars, Belledonne has been serving serious juice to Chiaia's aristocracy and intellectuals since 1936. Located in an elegant 18th-century palazzo, the interior features marble floors, vaulted ceilings, and walls lined with over 1,500 labels. While historic, the wine program has embraced the natural movement—sommelier Marco maintains an extensive selection of "vini viventi" from Campania's volcanic terroirs: "amphora-aged" Greco di Tufo from Quintodecimo, "sui lieviti" Coda di Volpe from De Conciliis, and rare "piedirosso" from ancient vines in the Phlegraean Fields. The food is refined Neapolitan: "frittura di alici" (fried anchovies), "pasta e patate con provola" (pasta with potatoes and smoked cheese), and "parmigiana di melanzane" (eggplant parmesan). The crowd is sophisticated—politicians from nearby Palazzo Chigi, university professors, and fashion designers from the Via dei Mille boutiques. The outdoor seating on the quiet street is highly coveted. Reservations recommended for dinner; the bar accepts walk-ins for wine by the glass and "cicchetti." A masterclass in how natural wine can be elegant and traditional simultaneously.
A sophisticated cocktail and natural wine bar overlooking the Bay of Naples, L'Antiquario occupies a restored antique shop in the Posillipo hills with a terrace that offers the best panoramic views of the city, Vesuvius, and Capri in the distance. While famous for cocktails (they invented several modern classics), the wine program is equally serious about "vini naturali." The list features volcanic whites from Ischia and Procida, "orange" wines from the Campi Flegrei, and unfiltered Aglianico from Taurasi producers experimenting with zero sulfur. The food is elevated Neapolitan "cucina povera": "polpette di mare" (seafood meatballs), "frittata di spaghetti," and "bruschetta" with "colatura di alici" (anchovy drippings from Cetara). The atmosphere is romantic and refined—couples arrive for sunset (the "golden hour" over the bay) and stay until midnight. The interior features antique mirrors and vintage furniture, creating a Belle Époque atmosphere. Reservations essential for the terrace; the indoor bar accepts limited walk-ins. Dress smart casual—this is where Naples' beautiful people come to see and be seen while drinking natural wine.
Costiera Amalfitana (Cliffs & Limoncello)
The most spectacular wine tasting room in Italy, perched on cliffs 500 meters above the Amalfi Drive with views that literally take your breath away. Marisa Cuomo produces wines from terraced vineyards accessible only by rope and harness, using indigenous varieties like "Fenile," "Ginestra," and "Ripoli" blended with Falanghina and Aglianico. While not strictly "natural" (they use some sulfur), they employ traditional methods and have introduced "low intervention" lines fermented in buried amphorae. The tasting room is a glass-walled pavilion extending from the rock face—you hover over the void while tasting "Fiorduva" (the flagship white) and "Furore Rosso." The experience includes a tour of the cable-car-accessed vineyards and the ancient "palmenti" (stone presses). The atmosphere is dramatic and unforgettable—couples often propose here. Tastings include local "scialatielli ai frutti di mare" (seafood pasta) or "lemon risotto" using Amalfi coast lemons. Reservations essential; they offer transportation from Amalfi or Positano. The "Ravello" music festival crowd frequents this spot. Not cheap, but the combination of vertiginous views and volcanic wines is unique.
A sea-level institution in Amalfi town where the natural wine list matches the Michelin-starred cuisine. Located in a 13th-century building on the waterfront, Eolo features vaulted ceilings and large arched windows opening onto the harbor. Chef Andrea creates modern interpretations of Amalfi classics—"ndunderi" (ricotta gnocchi), "totani e patate" (squid and potatoes), and "scialatielli alle vongole"—while the sommelier, Giuseppe, has assembled Campania's most adventurous natural wine cellar. The focus is on volcanic and coastal "vini viventi": "orange" Falanghina from Cilento, unfiltered Biancolella from Ischia, and "pét-nat" from grapes grown in the shadow of Vesuvius. The "tasting menu with natural wine pairing" is a journey through Campania's volcanic terroirs. The atmosphere is elegant but relaxed—linen tablecloths, but the sound of waves lapping against the foundation. Reservations essential for dinner; lunch is more flexible but still recommended in high season (July-August). The outdoor terrace puts you inches from the fishing boats. Ask for the "vino di contrada" (single vineyard) selections from the back cellar.
The relaxed counterpoint to Ravello's luxury hotels, Babel occupies a prime spot on the main piazza next to the cathedral, offering natural wine without the pretension (or prices) of the nearby five-star resorts. The terrace overlooks the Duomo's façade and the endless blue of the Amalfi Coast. The wine list focuses on "vini artigianali" from the "Costiera" and islands: "vini macerati" (skin-contact) from Tramonti (the hidden wine village above Amalfi), "col fondo" from Agerola, and unfiltered "per'e palummo" (Piedirosso) from vines grown on lemon pergolas. The food is simple and local: "panini" with "provolone del Monaco" (local spicy cheese), "frittura di alici" (fried anchovies), and "delizie al limone" (lemon cakes) made with fruit from the family grove. The atmosphere is bohemian and international—German tourists, American artists in residence at the Villa Cimbrone, and local "ravellesi" mix at the shared tables. The owner, Antonio, is a jazz musician and often hosts impromptu sessions in the evening. No reservations; arrive early (18:00) for the "passaggiata" (evening stroll) aperitivo. The "Amalfi sunset" with a glass of "orange" wine is the perfect Ravello experience without the Michelin prices.
Isole del Golfo (Procida, Ischia & Capri)
Located on the picturesque fishing harbor of Corricella (the setting for "The Talented Mr. Ripley"), Casa di Baia is a colorful, family-run wine bar that captures the pastel-colored, laid-back vibe of Procida. The terrace hangs over the water, with fishing boats bobbing meters below and the yellow, pink, and blue houses of the marina reflected in the harbor. The wine list focuses on "vini naturali" from the Campanian islands: "Biancolella" and "Forastera" (indigenous to Ischia and Procida) fermented with native yeasts, unfiltered "Falanghina" from Phlegraean Fields producers, and "Piedirosso" from the volcanic soils of the archipelago. The food is pure island "cucina": "linguine con alici" (anchovies), "impepata di cozze" (peppery mussels), and "limoncello" made with Procida's famous lemons. The atmosphere is relaxed and familial—owner Maria treats everyone like long-lost cousins, often offering tastes of "vino sfuso" (bulk wine) from her uncle's vineyard. No reservations; arrive by 18:30 to watch the fishing boats return with the day's catch. The sunset here is magical—the pastel buildings glow gold and pink. Cash preferred. The most authentic island natural wine experience.
A cliffside restaurant and wine bar on the "Green Island", overlooking the Aragonese Castle and the Bay of Naples. Ischia is less glitzy than Capri but more authentic, and Giardino Eden represents the best of the island's wine culture. The terrace is built into the rocky coastline, with platforms extending over the water for swimming and sunbathing. The wine list champions "vini naturali" from Ischia's volcanic soils: "Biancolella" and "Forastera" (whites grown on the island's steep terraces), unfiltered "Piedirosso" (called "Per'e Palummo" here), and rare "Guarnaccia" and "Uva Rilla" from ancient vines. The food is seafood-focused: "zuppa di pesce" (fish soup), "polpo alla luciana" (octopus with tomatoes and capers), and "coniglio all'ischitana" (rabbit with garlic and tomatoes, the island's signature dish). The atmosphere is "Dolce Vita" elegance—Ischia has been a retreat for artists and intellectuals since the 1950s (Luchino Visconti, Elizabeth Taylor), and the crowd is sophisticated but unpretentious. Reservations essential for dinner; the beach club accepts day visitors for wine by the glass. The thermal waters nearby add to the wellness vibe. The "Biancolella naturale" with sea urchins is the taste of Ischia.
