Paul-Henri & Charles ThillardonThe New Stars of Chénas
From cooperative grapes to biodynamic stardom. Chénas' highest climat, 80-100 year old vines, and a polyculture farm with cows, pigs, and a 1927 vertical press.
From cooperative family to natural wine pioneers
Paul-Henri Thillardon grew up in the southern Beaujolais, where his family grew grapes to sell to the local cooperative [^156^]. He often worked in the vines as a kid and aspired to one day make his own wine. At age twenty-one, he set out on his own and purchased vineyard land in the cru of Chénas, seeing potential in an appellation that lacked the superstar talent of nearby Morgon and Fleurie [^156^].
He settled in Chénas in 2008 and started making wine from a couple of parcels. In 2012, he was able to buy a small domaine on the higher slopes of the cru with 100-year-old vines—the Chassignol vineyard. Always dedicated to organic farming, he also decided to experiment with biodynamics, and was so encouraged by the results that continuing in this manner was simply common sense [^157^].
"I can't drink the wines I used to make anymore," he admits, grateful for the region's established stars who took him under their wing.
Paul-Henri was soon joined by his siblings: his brother Charles in 2014 (who previously worked in the milk industry) and sister Aude. Today, the Thillardon siblings farm 10 hectares of vines on a polyculture farm that also features cows, pigs, chickens, bees, and a horse trained to help them work their steep hillside parcels [^156^][^157^].
Microscope yeast checks and the 1927 press
Every decision in the Thillardon cellar reflects their holistic approach. Grapes are cooled to 5°C in a refrigerated container before whole-bunch fermentation begins [^154^]. During maceration, they look at the yeasts under the microscope to check they are good ones—precision winemaking without additives [^154^].
There are no punch-downs or pump-overs. The maceration period lasts around 20-25 days, with minimal intervention. In 2018, Paul-Henri made a game-changing purchase: a beautiful old vertical press made in Lyon in 1927. "I would often taste with Yvon Métras, and the wines just blew me away. He pointed to his press and said, 'it's down to this.' It creates a very clear juice with such purity of fruit" [^157^].
"We like natural wine, but we like clean natural wine," says Paul-Henri. Around 15-20 mg/L of SO2 is added before bottling—sometimes none at all. They seal their bottles with wax capsules (costing 30 cents per bottle, double the cost of a capsule), and have a machine to make this process less onerous [^154^].
- Chill to 5°C pre-ferment
- Microscope yeast analysis
- No pump-overs
- 1927 vertical press
- 15-20mg/L SO2 max
- Wax capsules
Three valleys, two soil types, one Chénas
Chassignol
The highest climat in Chénas, just above the winery. Ancient vines climb steep slopes of sandy granite and quartz. The granite here is very old because there has never been glacial erosion. Soils are poor (less than 3% clay) with rocks of quartz and iron—the Roche Lardée ("lard rock") named for its bacon-like appearance. Four hectares of 80-100+ year old vines sit below a forest that provides crucial freshness during drought [^154^][^157^].
Les Blémonts
Located on the sedimentary side of Chénas (flooded millions of years ago). Clay and manganese-rich soils give the wine a sappy, fine character with a slightly saline finish that Paul-Henri attributes directly to the manganese. 40-year-old vines contribute structure and mineral complexity to the Vibrations blend [^154^][^157^].
Les Carrières
Also on the alluvial side, but with more silex and silt in the soil. Rocky terrain creates wines of supple elegance with real focus and purity. This parcel contributes the bright, lifted quality to their blends. Recently passed to Hugo Foizel & Angela Quiblier of Domaine Obora to help young winemakers access organically farmed vines [^154^][^157^].
Single vineyards and the art of blending
Chénas "Chassignol"
From the highest climat in Chénas with 80-100+ year old vines on quartz and granite soils. The brothers now have a monopoly on this parcel after buying their neighbor's plot. Assertive and bright, spicy and quite rich, with vibrant acidity and a savory edge. The 2014 received 95/100—"so pretty with lovely bright, sappy, green mineral notes" [^154^][^157^].
80-100+ year vines
Quartz & granite
95/100 rating
Chénas "Les Vibrations"
A blend of young vines and old vines in Chassignol (granitic soil) with 40-year-old vines in Les Blémonts and Les Carrières (alluvial soil). This diversity brings beautiful complexity. Very supple and bright with raspberry and red cherry fruit, white pepper, and dried flowers. A pure style that represents the full spectrum of Chénas terroirs [^154^][^173^].
Granite & alluvial
Supple & bright
White pepper spice
Chénas "Les Blémonts"
From clay and manganese-rich soils. Very sappy, fine and expressive with clean raspberry and cherry fruit. Lively with good acidity and a nice detailed saline edge that Paul-Henri attributes directly to the manganese. Has nice fine-grained structure. The 2016 received 94/100 [^154^].
Saline finish
Fine-grained
94/100 rating
Chénas "Les Carrières"
From a rocky part of the cru with silex soils. Supple, fine and elegant with real focus and purity. Very expressive with a light, elegant texture. The 2016 received 93/100. "Structured, lifted, and quietly intense" with red fruit and crushed rock notes [^154^][^174^].
Rocky terrain
Elegant texture
93/100 rating
Moulin-à-Vent
From the part of Moulin-à-Vent bordering Chénas—acquired in 2014 after years of herbicide abuse. After seven years of biodynamic farming, it's finally bouncing back. This is a lighter style of Moulin than typical—expressive and bright with acid lift and nice focus to the cherry and berry fruits. Electric and full of tension [^154^][^157^].
7 years recovery
Light & bright
Electric tension
"Georges"
Named after Paul-Henri's grandfather, who worked in textiles in St-Etienne while tending family vineyards. A white wine from the southern Beaujolais pierres dorées zone on blue marl soils (like the Jura). Massal selection of Chardonnay, Chardonnay Rose (pink mutation), and Aligoté. Aged for two years or longer on lees to develop salinity and minerality [^157^].
Blue marl soils
2+ year elevage
Grandfather's namesake
Chénas: The Smallest Cru
At just 253 hectares, Chénas is the smallest of Beaujolais' ten crus—often unfairly overshadowed by larger, more famous neighbors like Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie [^157^]. But this tiny appellation is incredibly diverse, home to multiple soil types that the Thillardon brothers celebrate through their single-vineyard cuvées.
The Thillardons have earned a reputation for fresh, low-alcohol, silky expressions of Gamay from this previously unheralded corner of Beaujolais. Their commitment to polyculture—cows, pigs, chickens, bees, and a draft horse working the steep slopes—reflects a holistic vision of agriculture that goes beyond wine. With Paul-Henri, Charles, and Aude working together, they represent the future of natural Beaujolais: precise, clean, and deeply connected to their terroir [^156^][^157^].
- Founded 2008 by Paul-Henri (age 21)
- Charles joined 2014, Aude also involved
- 10 hectares in Chénas & Moulin-à-Vent
- Chassignol: highest climat, monopoly
- 80-100+ year old vines
- Organic from start, biodynamic since 2012
- Polyculture: cows, pigs, horse, bees
- 4 hectares forest adjacent to vines
- Chill grapes to 5°C
- Microscope yeast analysis
- No pump-overs or punch-downs
- 1927 Lyon vertical press
- 15-20mg/L SO2 max
- Wax capsules (30 cents/bottle)
- Mentors: Dutraive, Métras, Breton