Quinta da MuradellaJosé Luis Mateo
The Professor. For over 30 years, giving voice to Monterrei's ancient vineyards—crafting Burgundian-level field blends from 24 Galician varieties on iron-rich clay and slate, 300-800 meters above the Portuguese border.
From journalism student to Galicia's most respected grower—how José Luis Mateo became "The Professor."
In the remote southeastern corner of Galicia, where the mountains meet the Portuguese border, José Luis Mateo García was expected to pursue a life away from the land. His parents, people of modest means who had fought hard to give their son opportunities they never had, sent him to Madrid to study Journalism and Advertising. But by his second year, José Luis knew his heart lay elsewhere—with the vines of his native Monterrei.
Against his family's wishes, he returned home in 1990 and established Quinta da Muradella, named after the first finca he acquired in 1993 in Tamaguelos, near the Támega River. Initially, he made wine for his family's taberna, A Canteira, in Verín—a nondescript local bar where workers and locals gathered. There, he served his wines from the barrel, learning his craft through trial and error, listening to feedback from farmers and laborers.
Working with mentor Raúl Pérez in the early stages opened his mind to new possibilities—"He taught me that the work in the vineyard and in the winery go hand in hand." Over three decades, José Luis has scoured the hillsides to revive old vineyards, acquiring 15 hectares across 23 different plots (11 owned, the rest long-term leases), ranging from 300 meters in the valley to 800 meters in the remote mountains of Vilardevós, A Trabe, and Berrande—areas abandoned by farmers 30-40 years ago.
"The only essential thing is that the vineyard has balance"—organic farming, massal selection, and the Burgundian method.
José Luis converted to organic viticulture in 2005 and has since refined a philosophy of minimal intervention combined with obsessive attention to detail. When vines die, he replants using massal selection cuttings from his oldest vineyards, preserving genetic diversity rather than planting clones. He works with over 24 Galician varieties (9 white, 15 red), conducting ongoing trials to identify the ideal combination of ancient grapes for each plot, as was done pre-phylloxera.
His approach is Burgundian in structure: Candea represents the appellation level (from friend Juan Jose Vilela's vineyards), Alanda is the village wine (blend of sites), and Muradella, Gorvia, and El Pliegue are the single-vineyard crus. Each plot is vinified separately, often co-fermenting varieties grown together. Fermentation vessels vary—stainless steel, concrete, French foudres, old barrels—depending on the vintage and site.
In the extreme continental climate of Monterrei—where summer temperatures reach 42°C and winters are freezing—José Luis seeks freshness and balance above all. He uses indigenous yeasts, bottles without fining or filtration, and gives his wines extended élevage (often 2+ years) and bottle aging before release. "I'm pretty anarchic in that respect; there are no clichés in wine," he says. "The only essential thing is that the vineyard has balance."
Balance & Patience
Monterrei—granite, iron-rich clay and slate at 300-800m, where continental extremes meet Celtic history.
Extreme Altitude
Vineyards span from 300 meters in the valley near the Támega River to 800 meters in the remote mountains of Vilardevós and Berrande. The higher elevations experience dramatic diurnal shifts, preserving acidity despite the hot summers. This range allows José Luis to blend for complexity or bottle single-vineyard expressions of place.
Geothermal Soils
The base rock is granite, but geothermal activity has created a complex mosaic—iron-rich red clay, schist, quartz, sand, and decomposed slate. Gorvia sits on iron-rich clay and slate near the castle; El Pliegue marks a geological "fold" between shale and granite. These poor, mineral soils force vines to dig deep, producing concentrated, nuanced fruit.
Continental Climate
Monterrei is the hottest valley in Galicia, with summer temperatures reaching 42°C and cold winters. This extreme continental climate (bordering Portugal's Trás-os-Montes) creates unique challenges for maintaining freshness. José Luis farms 23 small plots across this varied landscape, including the legendary A Trabe vineyard (shared with Raúl Pérez).
From the appellation Candea to the cru El Pliegue—a Burgundian hierarchy of terroir expression.
Candea Blanco
The "presentation card"—a blend of Doña Blanca, Verdello, and Treixadura from vineyards around Tamagos (370m elevation, mostly clay soils). Grapes are pressed and co-fermented in stainless steel, aged on fine lees for over a year. No malolactic fermentation. Fresh, saline, and approachable, with the complexity that belies its entry-level status (~€14-18).
Candea Tinto
Mencía-based blend with Arauxa (Tempranillo), Garnacha Tintorera, and Mouratón from Tamagos (370m, clay soils). Co-fermented with ~1/3 whole bunches, maceration can exceed 30 days. Racked after malolactic and aged over a year in tank. Juicy, tangy, herb-tinged with wild berries and flowers—what Luis Gutiérrez calls "straightforward, tasty, and balanced" (~€14-18).
Alanda Blanco
The village wine—Doña Blanca, Treixadura, and Verdello from across Monterrei's diverse soils, elevations, and exposures. Grapes are added progressively to a continuous fermentation, aged 15+ months in a mix of stainless steel and 1500L French oak foudres. No malolactic. Pale, austere, more about soil and rocks than fruit, with wet granite and dry flower notes. 95 points Wine Advocate (~€22-28).
Alanda Tinto
Mencía, Bastardo (Merenzao), Garnacha Tintorera, Mouratón, Gran Negro, and Arauxa from diverse sites (granite, sand, clay). Fermented with 1/3 whole clusters in steel and concrete, aged 15 months in used barrels, concrete, and steel, then assembled and matured another year in tank before bottling. Medium-bodied, velvety, with Burgundian finesse—blind tasters guess Volnay 1er Cru. 93 points Wine Advocate (~€22-28).
Gorvia Blanco
From the original 1.2-hectare vineyard planted by José Luis's father in 1985, near Monterrei Castle (