In the Castle Cellars, Nature Speaks
Rocca Rondinaria is a small, family-run biodynamic farm and winery in the heroic hills of Alto Monferrato, near Rocca Grimalda in the province of Alessandria. Founded in 2004 by Lucesio Venturini and his wife Giovanna De Rege, the estate began as a diverse agricultural venture — breeding horses and small farm animals, haymaking, and experimental cultivation of special essences such as saffron — before turning its focus to the recovery of abandoned historic vineyards in an area exceptionally suited for wine-making, known as Lucesio. The vineyards are certified organic (since 2012) and biodynamic (since 2013, with the mark "AGRIBIODINAMICA"), and the wines are crafted in the historic cellars of the Castello di Rocca Grimalda — a 13th-century fortress whose naturally stable temperature and humidity provide the perfect environment for minimal-intervention winemaking. With indigenous yeasts, foot-pressing for selected cuvées, long ageing in various vessels, and a deep respect for cosmic calendars, Rocca Rondinaria produces wines that are authentic expressions of the Alto Monferrato terroir: Dolcetto, Barbera, and Timorasso from sandy marble and limestone-tuff soils, at altitudes of approximately 300 meters above sea level.
From Diverse Farm to Biodynamic Vineyard
The story of Rocca Rondinaria begins in 2004, when Lucesio Venturini and his wife Giovanna De Rege founded a family farm on approximately 12 hectares of real estate in the Apennine hills of the Scrivia valley, near the town of Rocca Grimalda in the Alto Monferrato. The estate was not originally conceived as a winery; it was a diverse agricultural venture that included breeding horses and small farm animals, haymaking, and the experimental cultivation of special essences such as saffron. But the land spoke to them — particularly the abandoned historic vineyards that dotted the hillsides in an area known as Lucesio, a territory exceptionally suited for wine-making and historically celebrated for the quality of its terroir.
With the help of local winemakers who preserved the expertise of Rocca Grimalda's viticultural tradition, Lucesio and Giovanna decided to combine the agricultural profile that had always been central to their family history with the winemaking knowledge that had been carefully preserved in the region. The result was a small enterprise dedicated to relaunching and developing a local wine of quality — not through industrial expansion, but through the recovery of old farm vineyards that still retained the biodiversity and typical characteristics of traditional plantings. These were not monocultural, commercial vineyards; they were living archives of Alto Monferrato viticulture, with native vines coming from different mass selections that gave the wines their specific, unmistakable quality.
The name "Rocca Rondinaria" carries the weight of history and legend. According to a popular tradition still known in the area of Ovada, Rondinaria was a large Roman city populated by thousands of slaves whose work was to find and collect gold from the sands of the rivers Orba and Piota. While historians debate the exact location of this mythical city, there is general agreement that it did exist in some form. In 1722, Andrea Grimaldi received an important recognition from Emperor Charles VI for his estate — a diploma that confirmed the historical significance of this land. The Castello di Rocca Grimalda itself, with its majestic circular tower dating back to the beginning of the 13th century, has been owned by important families such as the Malaspinas and the Grimaldis, and today serves as a private dwelling and the home of Lucesio and Giovanna's large family.
The castle's dominant location over the wide Orba valley made it a strategic defendable position for centuries, and its cellars — located in the basement of the fortress — provide a natural stability of temperature and humidity that is ideal for winemaking. It is here, in these historic cellars, that Rocca Rondinaria's wines are crafted. The processing interventions are minimal and aim to accompany and enhance the characteristics of each vintage: partial pressing by feet, natural fermentation, a long period on the sediment of the barrel, transfer to slow-release barrels, followed by long ageing in bottles, respect of the cosmic calendar, and no filtration. This is not modern, engineered winemaking; it is a deliberate, low-tech affair that prioritizes the natural expression of the grape over technological manipulation — an uncompromising dedication to biodynamic principles and a deep-seated belief in the dialogue between human and nature.
"Our work in the vineyards and in the cellars, inspired by the respect and dialogue with nature, enables us to offer a wine that represents the energy and the characteristics of the specific 'terroir'."
— Rocca Rondinaria
Heroic Hillsides & Sandy Marble Terroir
Rocca Rondinaria's vineyards are located in the hills of Rocca Grimalda, in the Alto Monferrato region of Piedmont — a territory of steep slopes, ancient villages, and deep agricultural tradition that has produced distinctive wines for centuries. The vineyards are described as "heroic" due to their steep slopes and challenging terrain, which demand significant manual labor and prevent mechanization. The estate's two primary vineyard sites — Trionzo and Vallegrande/Bernarda — are located at approximately 300 meters above sea level, with south/south-east exposure that ensures optimal sun exposure throughout the growing season. The soils are particularly suited for refined, select wines: sandy marble sediments with local sandy veins of fine loamy material and bigger blocks of sedimentary, clay-poor and well-drained rock. This is not the heavy clay of the Po Valley; it is a lighter, more mineral-rich composition that gives the wines elegance, finesse, and a distinct capacity for ageing.
The nature of the soil is the foundation of Rocca Rondinaria's wine quality. The sandy marble sediments provide excellent drainage, preventing waterlogging and encouraging the vines to dig deep for nutrients. The veins of fine loamy material retain just enough moisture to sustain the vines during dry periods, while the bigger blocks of sedimentary rock contribute minerality, structure, and the distinctive "salty" character that defines great Alto Monferrato wines. The white soils of calcareous marl and tuff — particularly evident in the Gagà vineyard — give the wines a luminous, almost chalky quality, with pronounced acidity and aromatic complexity. This is a terroir that demands patience and respect from the vigneron, and Lucesio and Giovanna have answered that demand with biodynamic farming, manual harvesting, and a deep understanding of the land's rhythms.
The climate is continental with Ligurian influence — the hills of Rocca Grimalda are regularly reached by sea breezes from the Mediterranean, which moderate temperatures and add a subtle salinity to the wines. Summers are warm and sun-drenched, thanks to the south/south-east exposure, but rarely oppressive due to the elevation and the cooling effect of the Apennine foothills. Winters are cold, with frost that naturally controls pests and diseases. The diurnal temperature shifts during the growing season are pronounced, preserving acidity in the grapes while allowing full phenolic ripeness. Rainfall is moderate, and the well-drained soils manage moisture effectively. This combination of warm days, cool nights, mineral-rich soils, and maritime breezes creates ideal conditions for the estate's native varieties: Dolcetto, Barbera, and Timorasso.
Farming is certified organic (since 2012 by BIOS) and biodynamic (since 2013, with the "AGRIBIODINAMICA" mark). The cultural practices are dictated by the pursuit of the greatest respect and harmony with nature: limited use of tractors, no trimming of vines in summer, organic fertilization using green manure, aeration of the soil, respect of cosmic calendars, use of biodynamic treatments, and grape harvesting by hand. The quantity produced is intentionally small, reflecting the estate's commitment to quality over volume. The vineyards are worked with minimal intervention, preserving biodiversity and the delicate balance of the soil ecosystem. This is not maximum-yield agriculture; it is maximum-expression viticulture — where the health of the vine, the integrity of the grape, and the energy of the terroir are the only metrics that matter.
Sandy marble sediments with veins of fine loamy material and blocks of sedimentary rock. Excellent drainage, mineral-rich, clay-poor. White soils of calcareous marl and tuff. Provides elegance, finesse, minerality, and extraordinary ageing capacity. The foundation of the estate's refined, terroir-driven wines.
Warm sun-drenched summers moderated by elevation and Mediterranean sea breezes. Cold winters with natural frost pest control. Pronounced diurnal shifts at 300m. Regular sea breeze influence adds subtle salinity. Ideal for native varieties — heat develops color and sugar; limestone and cool nights preserve vibrant acidity.
Organic certified since 2012 (BIOS), biodynamic since 2013 (AGRIBIODINAMICA). Limited tractor use, no summer trimming, green manure fertilization, soil aeration. Respect of cosmic calendars, biodynamic treatments. Strictly manual harvesting. Biodiversity and soil health as foundation. Maximum expression, not maximum yield.
Steep slopes preventing mechanization — "heroic" viticulture demanding significant manual labor. Two primary sites: Trionzo and Vallegrande/Bernarda. Vines over 60 years old in the Gesusio vineyard. Original peasant plantings with native vines from different mass selections. A living archive of Alto Monferrato biodiversity.
Foot-Pressed, Cosmic Calendars & No Filtration
At Rocca Rondinaria, the cellar philosophy is one of absolute minimal intervention — a natural extension of the biodynamic farming practiced in the vineyard. The winemaking operations are carried out in the historic cellars of the Castello di Rocca Grimalda, whose naturally stable temperature and humidity provide the ideal environment for wines to develop without technological manipulation. Lucesio and Giovanna's technical skill lies not in the application of modern equipment but in their intuitive understanding of the vine, the soil, and the inherent character of each vintage. All fermentations are spontaneous, initiated by indigenous yeasts present on the grapes. The use of sulfites and other additives is kept to a bare minimum. This is winemaking as a dialogue with nature — patient, precise, and deeply respectful of the grape's potential.
The techniques are demanding, traditional, and deeply rooted in the history of the Alto Monferrato:
Harvest & Selection: All grapes are meticulously hand-harvested from the estate's heroic hillside vineyards. Lucesio and Giovanna monitor each vineyard daily in the weeks leading up to harvest, tasting berries and waiting for the moment when phenolic ripeness, sugar concentration, and acid balance align — often guided by biodynamic cosmic calendars that indicate optimal timing for vineyard work. The harvest is selective and careful, conducted entirely by hand due to the steep slopes that prevent any mechanization. Only the finest bunches are chosen, and they are transported quickly to the castle cellars to preserve freshness. The old vines of the Gesusio and Sibrà vineyards — some over 60 years old — receive particular attention, their concentrated fruit handled with the care that decades of survival and resilience demand.
"Gagà" Monferrato Bianco DOC — The Timorasso Expression: The "Gagà" is a white wine made from Timorasso grapes — the native variety that is gaining international recognition as one of Italy's most complex and age-worthy white grapes. The grapes come from vineyards located in the hills of Rocca Grimalda with south/south-east exposure, on white soils of calcareous marl and tuff at approximately 300 meters above sea level. The estate proposes two versions: one aged entirely in steel, preserving freshness and the pure expression of the fruit; and another that has spent at least 6 months in barriques, adding complexity and texture without overwhelming the wine's mineral character. The 2020 vintage was the first release — just 1,200 bottles — and even at this small scale, the wine made an immediate impression: powerful, high in acid, high in alcohol (14.5%), with a strong tannin structure from just two days of skin maceration. The aromas fluctuate between honeyed and herbal with a distinct salinity from the limestone soils. It is a wine of extraordinary versatility and depth — proof that Timorasso from the Alto Monferrato can rival the more famous expressions from the Colli Tortonesi.
"Gesusio" Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore DOCG — The Flagship: The "Gesusio" is the estate's most celebrated wine — a Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore DOCG produced from vines older than 60 years, located in the hills of Rocca Grimalda in the locality of Bernarda/Vallegrande. This is a classic vinification that enhances the characteristics of elegance and finesse that distinguish this extraordinary vineyard. The old vines, with their deep roots in the sandy marble and limestone-tuff soils, produce grapes of extraordinary concentration and complexity. The wine is vinified with minimal intervention, aged with patience, and bottled without filtration. The result is a wine of structure and grace: dark fruit, violet, almond, and a distinct mineral backbone that speaks of the terroir. The tannins are firm yet refined, the acidity vibrant, the finish long and savoury. It is a wine that demands patience — years of cellaring will reveal more earthy, truffle, and dried fruit complexity — and that proves Dolcetto, when grown on old vines and handled with respect, can achieve greatness that rivals the most celebrated reds of Piedmont.
"Rosa Munda" Barbera del Monferrato DOC — The Sea-Kissed Red: The "Rosa Munda" is produced from Barbera grape vineyards in the hills of Rocca Grimalda that are regularly reached by the sea breeze — a unique climatic influence that adds a subtle salinity and freshness to the wine. The vineyards have south/south-east exposition, with white limestone soils at 300 meters altitude. The estate offers two versions: one aged entirely in steel, showcasing the grape's natural vibrancy and red fruit character; and another that has spent at least 6 months in large barrels, adding structure and complexity while preserving the wine's maritime freshness. The result is a Barbera of unusual elegance — cherry, plum, spice, and a distinct mineral-salty undertone that speaks of the Ligurian breezes and the limestone beneath the vineyard.
"Sibrà" — The Ancient Roman Vineyard: The "Sibrà" comes from an old vineyard located on the slopes of "Bric Trionzo" — an ancient Roman settlement and a legendary place of esoteric encounters. This small plot has maintained its original typical farming layout: the vine variety is Dolcetto, with plants over 50 years old together with a few plants of Ciliegiolo, which contribute to giving an interesting and characteristic bouquet of perfumes and aromas. The wine is aged for an extended period in tonneaux and barriques, developing complexity, spicy notes, and a pleasant acidity. It is a wine that carries the weight of history — Roman, medieval, and modern — in every glass, a testament to the enduring quality of this extraordinary site.
"Retrò" — The Vintage Vinification: The "Retrò" is Rocca Rondinaria's most traditional wine — a vintage vinification that revives the methods of the past. The ripest grapes from both vineyards are brought to the cellar, pressed by feet and left to ferment while maintaining the stalks, exactly as was done in centuries past. After the pressing, the wine is transferred to large barrels, undergoes several decantings, and receives a long refinement in the bottle. This type of vinification enhances the aromas and flavors of the wine, and thanks to the high component of tannins from the stalks, it is extraordinary in ageing, giving refined and intense sensations. It is not a wine for immediate consumption; it is a wine for the patient collector, the contemplative drinker, the lover of tradition. Every bottle is a journey back in time — to the foot-presses, the stalk fermentations, and the long, slow ageing that defined winemaking before industrialization.
"Spessiàri" Dolcetto di Ovada — The New Plant: The "Spessiàri" comes from a contour-plowing vineyard located on the south-south/east side of the Rocca Grimalda hills in the locality of Bernarda/Vallegrande — a site totally recovered from forest invasion. The vine is Dolcetto, but not just any Dolcetto: the new plant was created to complete the hillock, mixing vines from different mass selections that integrate their qualities to give a product of excellence. The "Nibiò" biotype — an old, high-quality Dolcetto clone — contributes distinctive character and depth. This is a wine that bridges the old and the new: traditional variety, modern vineyard management, ancient biotype, biodynamic farming — all converging in a wine that is fresh, vibrant, and deeply expressive of its place.
"Cincinato" — The Rosé: The "Cincinato" is a rosé wine from a vineyard located on the south/south-east side of Rocca Grimalda, at 300 meters above sea level, on white limestone soil. It is a fresh, elegant expression of the estate's red varieties, made with minimal skin contact to preserve delicacy and aromatic purity. The result is a wine of bright acidity, red berry fruit, and a distinct mineral finish — the perfect aperitif, a companion to light dishes, and a testament to the versatility of the Alto Monferrato terroir.
"Settenipoti" — The Celebratory Magnum: The "Settenipoti" — "Seven Grandchildren" — is a celebratory wine created to mark a remarkable family milestone. The 2021 vintage was an excellent year: seven grandchildren achieved in a bang, as Lucesio and Giovanna joyfully note. This Ovada DOCG is produced from the best grapes of the historic "Bernarda/Vallegrande" cru, with its south/south-east exposition, limestone and tuff soils, and 300-meter elevation. It is released in numbered magnum bottles — a limited edition that carries the family's joy and the terroir's excellence in equal measure. The wine itself is a Dolcetto of extraordinary depth and structure, capable of long ageing and worthy of the most special occasions.
Ageing & Bottling: The estate's approach to ageing is deliberately patient and varied. Stainless steel tanks preserve freshness and aromatic purity for selected wines. Large barrels and barriques provide slow, gentle micro-oxygenation that develops complexity without overwhelming the wines' natural character. The castle cellars guarantee a natural stability of temperature and humidity, eliminating the need for artificial climate control. After ageing, the wines are bottled with minimal intervention — no filtration, minimal sulfites, respect for the cosmic calendar. Long ageing in bottle follows, allowing the wines to integrate, evolve, and reveal their full potential. The result is wines that are pure, unadulterated reflections of their heroic origin — alive, evolving, and unmistakably honest.
"Gesusio" — "Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore DOCG from 60+ Year Old Vines, Classic Vinification, Long Ageing, No Filtration, Biodynamic Certified"
The "Gesusio" is Rocca Rondinaria's most profound wine — a Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore DOCG that showcases the extraordinary potential of old vines on sandy marble and limestone-tuff soils, and that stands as testament to Lucesio and Giovanna's unwavering commitment to biodynamic viticulture and traditional winemaking. It is not merely a wine; it is a declaration of what the Alto Monferrato can achieve when tradition, terroir, and biodynamic devotion converge.
The grapes come from the estate's most precious vineyard, located in the locality of Bernarda/Vallegrande in the hills of Rocca Grimalda. Here, Dolcetto vines have survived for more than 60 years, their roots digging deep into the sandy marble sediments and limestone-tuff soils that define this extraordinary site. The soil is clay-poor and well-drained — a composition that forces the vines to struggle, producing small berries with thick skins, intense flavors, and the structural backbone necessary for decades of ageing. The south/south-east exposure ensures optimal sun throughout the growing season, while the elevation of 300 meters and the regular influence of sea breezes preserve acidity and add a subtle, refreshing salinity.
The vineyard is farmed biodynamically, with the "AGRIBIODINAMICA" certification that the estate has held since 2013. No synthetic chemicals, no herbicides, no pesticides — ever. The vines are not trimmed in summer, allowing natural canopy development. Organic fertilization using green manure maintains soil health. Biodynamic treatments and the respect of cosmic calendars guide every operation, from pruning to harvesting. The grapes are hand-harvested with meticulous selection, then transported to the historic cellars of the Castello di Rocca Grimalda — a 13th-century fortress whose naturally stable temperature and humidity provide the perfect environment for minimal-intervention winemaking.
In the cellar, the grapes are gently destemmed and crushed. Fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts — no commercial strains, no temperature control, no enzymes. The maceration is carefully managed to extract the full structural potential of the old-vine fruit without overwhelming Dolcetto's natural elegance. After fermentation, the wine is aged with patience in a combination of vessels — large barrels for slow oxygenation, barriques for tannin refinement and complexity — followed by long ageing in bottle. There is no filtration; the wine is bottled with its natural sediment, preserving texture, flavor layers, and the living energy that biodynamic viticulture imparts.
In the glass, it is deep ruby with a garnet rim that hints at its ageing potential. The nose is complex and evolving — dark cherry, plum, violet, almond, dried herbs, and a distinct mineral earthiness that speaks of the limestone and tuff beneath the vineyard. There are notes of leather, tobacco, and a subtle spiciness from the oak ageing. The palate is full-bodied and seamless, with firm yet refined tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, savoury finish that lingers for minutes. This is not a light, simple Dolcetto; it is a wine of structure, elegance, and Alto Monferrato soul — proof that Dolcetto, when grown on 60-year-old vines in sandy marble soils and aged with patience, can achieve greatness that rivals the most celebrated wines of Piedmont.
The "Gesusio" demands patience. It will reward 10–20 years of cellaring, developing more earthy, truffle, and dried fruit complexity. Serve at 18°C after decanting, with braised meats, aged cheeses, truffle dishes, or simply on its own as a contemplative red. This is the wine that carries the legacy of Lucesio and Giovanna's 2004 vision — from a diverse family farm to one of the Alto Monferrato's most authentic biodynamic estates. Every bottle is a testament to the power of belief in indigenous varieties, the transformative potential of biodynamic farming, and the enduring magic of castle cellars where time moves slowly and wine evolves naturally. ~$28–$45 / ~€25–€40.
The Rocca Rondinaria Range
Lucesio Venturini and Giovanna De Rege produce a small, artisanal, biodynamic portfolio from their certified organic and biodynamic vineyards in Rocca Grimalda, Alto Monferrato, Piedmont. All wines are estate-grown, hand-harvested, spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts, and crafted with minimal intervention in the historic cellars of the Castello di Rocca Grimalda. Foot-pressing for selected cuvées, long ageing in various vessels, no filtration, respect for cosmic calendars. The portfolio focuses on native varieties — Dolcetto, Barbera, and Timorasso — from heroic hillside vineyards on sandy marble and limestone-tuff soils. Prices are approximate and in USD/EUR.