Serbia.

FRUŠKA GORA'S VOLCANIC SOUL & THE PROKUPAC RENAISSANCE

From the ancient volcanic hills of Fruška Gora to the royal vineyards of Šumadija, discover how Serbian natural winemakers are reviving 2,000-year-old indigenous varieties—Prokupac, Smederevka, and ancient Bakator—with zero-addition wines, amphora aging, and biodynamic farming

Serbia Natural Wine Guide: Fruška Gora's Volcanic Soul & The Prokupac Renaissance | Ancient Varieties & Zero-Intervention Revival

21k Hectares Under Vine

200+ Indigenous Varieties

60% White Wine Production

3 Major Wine Regions

The Balkan Wine Revival

Where ancient Roman vineyards meet zero-intervention natural wine

Serbia—positioned at the crossroads of Central Europe and the Balkans—possesses one of Europe's most ancient and diverse wine cultures, yet remains largely undiscovered by the international wine community. With 21,000 hectares of vineyards and over 200 indigenous grape varieties, Serbia is experiencing a natural wine renaissance that is reclaiming its pre-industrial heritage.

This guide focuses on the pioneers of Serbian natural wine—producers who are reviving ancient varieties like Prokupac (the "King of Župa," ancestor of Kadarka), Smederevka (the refreshing white of the Danube), and Bakator (an almost-extinct ancient variety). Oszkár Maurer in Subotica works with pre-phylloxera vines and zero additions. Bojan Baša crafts biodynamic orange wines on Fruška Gora's volcanic slopes. Kristina Lukić (Dalia) makes skin-contact Traminac in the ancient Rajac cellars of Negotin.

What unites them is a commitment to indigenous varieties, organic and biodynamic farming, and minimal intervention in the cellar. These wines—often from sand dunes, volcanic hills, or limestone river valleys—represent a Serbia that is ancient, diverse, and utterly distinct from the mass-market Yugoslav wines of the past.

Key Facts

Location: Balkans, Central Europe, 43-47°N
History: 2,000+ years (Roman Emperor Probus)
Key Regions: Fruška Gora, Šumadija, Negotin, Smederevo
Main Grapes: Prokupac, Smederevka, Tamjanika, Grašac
Method: Organic, biodynamic, amphora, zero sulfur
Style: Fresh, mineral, aromatic, food-friendly
Notable: 3ha organic vineyard = largest in Southeast Europe

From Roman Probus to the Natural Renaissance

2,000 years of Serbian wine evolution

3rd Century CE

Roman Foundations

Roman Emperor Probus (born in Sirmium, modern-day Sremska Mitrovica) orders vineyards planted on Fruška Gora, declaring that "the vines should be planted even on the banks of the Danube." This marks the beginning of organized viticulture in the region. The "Mirror of the Geological Past" becomes a wine paradise.

11th-14th Century

Medieval Golden Age

The Serbian medieval state reaches its zenith under the Nemanjić dynasty. Emperor Dušan the Mighty introduces some of Europe's earliest laws regulating wine quality and geographical indications. Monasteries cultivate vineyards and develop winemaking techniques. The "King of Župa" (Prokupac) becomes established.

16th-17th Century

The Ottoman Era & Migration

Ottoman invasions devastate Serbian vineyards. Many Serbs flee north to the Pannonian plain (modern Vojvodina), taking their vines with them. Fruška Gora is recognized as one of the world's top three terroirs (alongside Bordeaux and Burgundy) during the 15th century, supplying wine to Habsburg monarchs.

1939

The Earthquake & New Varieties

A devastating earthquake in southern Serbia leads the government to introduce new varieties for reconstruction. Carignan and Cinsault arrive, joining Prokupac and Smederevka. The Rajac cellars in Negotin Valley become the center of communal winemaking culture.

1990s

Post-Communist Revival

Legal reforms allow private winemaking after the fall of communism. Family-owned wineries begin leading a quality revolution. Focus shifts from quantity (Yugoslav bulk wine) to quality and indigenous varieties. Oszkár Maurer begins experimenting with natural methods.

2010-Present

The Natural Wine Explosion

Recognition by international critics (Jancis Robinson, Decanter) puts Serbian natural wine on the map. The "Mladi sa Rajačkih Pimnica" (Youth of Rajac) group forms in Negotin. Oszkár Maurer's wines reach Michelin-starred restaurants. Fruška Gora experiences a renaissance with biodynamic producers like Baša and Sagmeister.

"Fruška Gora was one of the best wine regions in the world in the Sixteenth Century, it was drunk by kings and aristocrats. It's never too late to rebuild this story." — Oszkár Maurer, Maurer Winery

Volcanic, Sandy & Limestone

The diverse terroirs of Serbian wine

🌋 Fruška Gora

Once a volcanic island in the Pannonian Sea (now a 75km mountain ridge). Volcanic and sedimentary rocks, limestone, marl, and clay. Part is a protected National Park. Roman Emperor Probus ordered vines planted here in the 3rd century. Home to Maurer, Baša, Bikicki, and Kovačević. Ancient varieties like Bakator, Szerémi Zöld, and Mézes Fehér thrive here.

🏰 Šumadija (Župa)

The "heartland of Serbia," royal vineyards south of Belgrade. Home to Prokupac ("King of Župa") and Smederevka. Rolling hills, continental climate, varied soils. Medieval wine traditions. Producers like Doja, Botunjac, and Ivanović craft natural Prokupac here. The region produces robust reds and aromatic whites.

🏛️ Negotin Valley

Ancient wine region in eastern Serbia (Timok), Danube border with Romania/Bulgaria. Historic village of Rajac with famous stone cellars (pimnice). Diverse microclimates, clay/limestone/sand soils. Kristina Lukić (Dalia) and Marko Obradović (Tenuta Est) make natural wines here. Field blends and skin-contact whites.

🌊 Smederevo/Belgrade

Along the Danube (ancient Via Militaris to Constantinople). Smederevka variety originated here. Flat river valley with alluvial soils. Historic wine route. Producers focus on light, fresh whites and approachable reds. Connection to ancient Roman trade routes.

🏖️ Subotica/Palić

Northern Serbia on the Hungarian border. Sandy soils (like Tokaj). Lake Palić influence. Central European varieties: Furmint, Kadarka, Mézes Fehér. Oszkár Maurer's headquarters. "Sandy terroir" produces elegant, mineral wines with low disease pressure.

⛰️ South Banat/Vršac

Windy hills of Vršac Mountains. Vines planted on sandy and mineral-rich soils. Continental climate with wind protection. Blaufränkisch (Kékfrankos) and other Central European varieties. Drašković, Galot, and other family wineries.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Climate	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Fruška Gora	Continental, Danube breeze	Volcanic, limestone, clay	Mineral, complex, ancient varieties
Šumadija	Continental, varied	Clay, limestone	Robust, structured, Prokupac
Negotin	Continental, Black Sea influence	Clay, sand, limestone	Elegant, field blends, ancient
Subotica	Continental, lake influence	Sand, loess	Elegant, mineral, Hungarian varieties
Smederevo	Riverine, continental	Alluvial, loess	Fresh, light, Smederevka

The Featured Producers

The pioneers defining Serbian natural wine

Fruška Gora – The Volcanic Heart

Oszkár Maurer

Maurer Winery, Subotica & Fruška Gora

The maverick of Serbian natural wine. Fourth-generation vigneron, 15 hectares across Subotica (sand) and Fruška Gora (volcanic). Guardian of native grapes: Kadarka, Bakator, Kövidinka, Mézes Fehér, Szerémi Zöld. "Keiser of Botrytis"—embraces noble rot. Two tiers: "Rege" (low SO2) and "Maurer" (zero additions). Wild fermentation, old oak, unfiltered. Works with 1880-1912 massale selections. "Wines tell the story of 3,000 years." Labels include funky chickens and eccentric names ("Crazy Lud," "Babba"). Served in Michelin-starred restaurants across Europe.

Zero Additions Ancient Varieties Botrytis Legend

Bojan Baša

Baša Vino, Sremski Karlovci, Fruška Gora

Former economist/banker turned biodynamic winemaker. 4.5 hectares on northern slopes of Fruška Gora overlooking the Danube. Limestone and clay soils on volcanic bedrock. Inspired by Italian, Slovenian, and Georgian natural wine. All wines fermented with wild yeast, macerated (orange wines), aged 2-3 years in barrel, bottled without fining, filtration, or sulfur. Rests 1+ year in bottle before release. Focus on Grašac, Furmint, Prokupac, and Pinot Grigio. Full-time winemaker since 2024. Family affair with wife Jelena (playwright) and four children.

Orange Wine Biodynamic Zero Sulfur Long Aging

Mladen Rogulj

Bikicki Winery, Banostor, Fruška Gora

Located at border of Fruška Gora National Park. 7.98 hectares on 140-220m altitude with 3,500+ sunny hours annually. Soils: cambisol and vertisol (clay) with volcanic rocks, limestone, and marl. Organic conversion started 2019, certification in process. Works with Oszkár Maurer as winemaker. Low-intervention philosophy with minimal sulfur at bottling. Focus on balance, elegance, and fruit expression. Grapes: Grašac, Probus, Neoplanta, Traminac, Cabernet Franc. Danube influence creates daily breeze and "second sun" reflection.

Organic Conversion Low Intervention Danube Terroir National Park

Miroslav Kovačević

Kovačević Winery, Irig, Fruška Gora

Largest organic winery in Southeast Europe—130+ hectares certified organic, with 55 hectares more in conversion. Founded 2001, organic since 2018. Family tradition dating to 1930. Flagship wines: Orpheline (white/red/rosé), Edizione S (Aurelius), Edizione R (amphora-aged). Uses qvevri/amphorae for Riesling. Wild yeasts, no additives, unfiltered. "Vine is the beating heart of the wine." Major investment in wine tourism (Vinska kuća restaurant). Leading the organic movement in Serbia while maintaining large-scale production.

Largest Organic Amphora 130 Hectares Wine Tourism

Erno Sagmeister

Sagmeister Winery, Kanjiža, Fruška Gora

Ethnic Hungarian winemaker from Kanjiža (Vojvodina). Civil engineer and mathematician turned natural winemaker. 3 vineyards in Fruška Gora National Park since 2008. Organic certified, low-intervention/natural methods. Indigenous varieties: Furmint, Kadarka, Hárslevelű. "Devas" Furmint—single vineyard, 1 day maceration, 30 months in Hungarian/Serbian oak, only 15ppm SO2. Wife Laura is an abstract painter—artistic approach to winemaking. Minimal intervention, spontaneous fermentation, no filtration. Represents the Hungarian-Serbian natural wine crossroads.

Furmint Hungarian Serbian Organic Long Aging

Negotin Valley – The Ancient Cellars

Kristina Lukić

Dalia, Rajac, Negotin Valley

Returned to Serbia after working for Champagne Marie Courtin and in Italy (Milan). Founded 2021—first vintage. Rents 1.8ha, owns 7ha land, planting to reach 10ha total. Focus on local varieties: Bagrina, Smederevka (whites), Prokupac, Začinak, Red Tamjanika (reds). "Pramen" skin-fermented Traminac (Gewürztraminer)—smooth, silky, floral Turkish delight aromatics without heaviness. Natural method, low intervention, healthy grapes. Empowering female producers in the region—"the presence of women in these villages is now very strong." Part of "Mladi sa Rajačkih Pimnica" (Youth of Rajac).

Woman Winemaker Skin Contact Champagne Experience Emerging

Marko Obradović

Tenuta Est, Rajac, Negotin Valley

Named in homage to his Italian upbringing ("Tenuta Est" = Estate East). 8.5 hectares—some family vines, some new plantings. Land is "ridiculously cheap" (around €5,000/ha) due to neglect from communist-era cooperative. "Stara Ružica" (Old Rose) 2023—field blend of 9 mixed white and red varieties: Prokupac, Vranac, Merlot, Tamjanika. Direct-press (no skin contact) but drinks like light red with prickle of tannins. Clean but expressive. Natural yeast, low sulfur. Part of the Negotin natural wine revival.

Field Blend Italian Influence Old Vines Affordable

Šumadija – The Royal Vineyards

Kosta Botunjac

Botunjac Winery, Župa, Šumadija

Painter and artist making wine from less than 2 hectares. "Sveti Gral" Prokupac from 50-100 year-old vines. Natural (wild) yeast, no electrical pumps, aged in large barrels. "Fresh, cool fruit with crunchy raspberry, plum and cranberry. Animal, earthy character. Grainy tannins and fresh acidity." Part of the Prokupac renaissance in the grape's historic homeland. Artistic approach—labels and wines reflect creative sensibility.

Artist Winemaker Old Vines Prokupac Small Scale

Dragoslav Ivanović

Ivanović Winery, Župa, Šumadija

"Prokupac, the King of Župa"—crafts wine from 80+ year-old vines. Often blends Prokupac with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for structure. "Youthful with aromas of plums and blackberry, well-integrated oak." Focuses on the indigenous varieties of the Župa Valley while respecting tradition. Part of the movement to elevate Prokupac from blending grape to fine wine status.

Prokupac King Župa Valley Heritage Traditional

Various Producers

Doja, Čokot, Zivkovic, Župa

Multiple small producers in the Župa region championing Prokupac. Doja Prokupac (90% Prokupac, 5% Merlot, 5% Syrah)—black cherry, violet, spice, fleshy fruit. Čokot Radovan Prokupac—black cherry, forest floor, spicy oak, good depth. Zivkovic Prokupac—steam-bent Serbian oak, black cherry and chocolate, well-balanced. These producers represent the grassroots revival of Serbia's most important indigenous red variety.

Prokupac Revival Župa Small Producers Indigenous

"I make the best and the worst Bakator in the world—because no one else is making any post-phylloxera." — Oszkár Maurer, on working with the nearly extinct Bakator grape

The Grapes of Natural Serbia

Indigenous treasures and ancient varieties

Red Variety • The King

Prokupac

Serbia's most important indigenous red grape. Native to the Župa region (south of Belgrade). Late-ripening, high sugar content, capable of high alcohol. Light to medium color, red berry, plum, spice, tobacco, forest floor. Often compared to Pinot Noir meets Cabernet Franc. Traditionally used for dark rosé and blending. Now being made as single-varietal fine wine by natural producers.

Style: Medium body, red fruit, earthy, spicy
Natural Wine Role: Single vineyard, old vine expressions
Top Producers: Botunjac, Ivanović, Doja, Čokot
Regions: Župa (Šumadija), Negotin
Notable: Possible parent of Kadarka

White Variety • The Refreshing One

Smederevka

One of Serbia's most traditional white varieties. Named after Smederevo (Danube region). Light, refreshing, crisp profile with citrus and green apple flavors. High acidity, subtle aromatics. Perfect for natural winemaking—fresh, low alcohol, food-friendly. Often compared to Pinot Grigio or Albariño. Dalia (Kristina Lukić) is planting this as part of her focus on local varieties.

Style: Light, crisp, citrus, green apple
Natural Wine Role: Fresh, zero-sulfur, early drinking
Top Producers: Dalia, various small growers
Regions: Smederevo, Danube valley
Notable: Serbia's "summer wine"

Ancient Variety • The Rare One

Bakator

Nearly extinct ancient variety preserved by Oszkár Maurer. Three types: red (Piros), white (Fehér), and blue—unrelated genetically but share flavor profiles when macerated. White Bakator is almost extinct (only Maurer and one Ukrainian producer have it). Planted in 1909, own-rooted, bush-trained. Maurer makes sparkling from it with citra hops, aged 18 months on lees. Historical significance—represents pre-phylloxera viticulture.

Style: Aromatic, spicy, unique
Natural Wine Role: Preservation, experimental sparkling
Top Producers: Maurer (only one)
Regions: Fruška Gora, Subotica
Notable: Nearly extinct, pre-phylloxera vines

More Serbian Varieties

From aromatic whites to Hungarian crosses

Tamjanika (Muscat): Serbian Muscat—aromatic, floral, spicy. Both white and red (Red Tamjanika) versions exist. Kristina Lukić works with red Tamjanika. Marko Obradović uses it in field blends.

Grašac (Welschriesling): Widely planted in Fruška Gora. Maurer and Baša make skin-contact versions. "Born in Serbia" according to Maurer. Balanced acidity, floral aromatics, citrus.

Kadarka: Also present in northern Serbia (Vojvodina), related to Prokupac. Oszkár Maurer's "Kadarka 1880" comes from massale selections of 1880-1912. Light, spicy, cranberry, pepper.

Mézes Fehér: "Honey White"—Hungarian variety grown in Subotica/Fruška Gora. Gets botrytis easily without losing acidity. Maurer makes "Sott" herbal wine from it (inspired by old Serbian bermet).

Szerémi Zöld: Ancient variety from Srem region (Fruška Gora). Part of Maurer's "Karom" field blend. High acidity, lift, freshness.

Bagrina: Lesser-known indigenous white from Negotin. High acidity, crisp, floral. Kristina Lukić is planting this.

Probus: Modern Serbian crossing (Kadarka x Cabernet Sauvignon). Retains Kadarka's red fruit with added tannins. Fresh and delicate style.

Food Pairing & Serbian Cuisine

Natural wine meets ćevapi, kajmak, and truffles

Pairings for Prokupac

Medium-bodied, spicy reds

Ćevapi: Grilled minced meat sausages
Roasted suckling pig: Traditional Serbian celebration
Kajmak: Clotted cream cheese
Gibanica: Cheese pie with filo pastry
Local match: Karađorđeva šnicla (stuffed schnitzel)

Pairings for Smederevka

Fresh, crisp whites

River fish: Perch from Danube in butter
Sarma: Stuffed cabbage rolls
Truffle pasta: Fruška Gora truffle specialties
Fresh cheese: Škripavac or young kajmak
Local match: Gibanica with sour cream

Serbian Wine Traditions

Slava, pimnice, and the culture of hospitality

Slava is the Serbian Orthodox celebration of family patron saints—wine is central to the ritual. The pimnice (cellars) of Rajac in Negotin are unique stone structures where families have made wine for centuries—now being revived by young natural winemakers. Bermet is a traditional Serbian aromatized wine (similar to vermouth) with wormwood and herbs—Maurer's "Sott" is a modern natural interpretation. Rakia (fruit brandy) is ubiquitous, but natural wine is reclaiming its place at the table. The Serbian tradition of gostoprimstvo (hospitality) means wine is for sharing—natural wine's convivial, unpretentious character fits perfectly. In Fruška Gora, truffle hunting pairs with wine tasting. The Župa region hosts Prokupac festivals celebrating the "King."

Visiting Natural Serbia

From Fruška Gora's monasteries to Negotin's cellars

🌋 Fruška Gora

Base in Novi Sad (European Capital of Culture 2022). Visit Maurer in Subotica (sand dunes, ancient varieties). Baša (Sremski Karlovci, biodynamic orange wines). Bikicki (Banostor, National Park border). Kovačević (Irig, large organic estate, restaurant). Combine with Krušedol monastery and Grgeteg monastery (wine-making monasteries).

🏰 Negotin Valley

Base in Negotin or Rajac. Visit Dalia (Kristina Lukić, skin-contact Traminac). Tenuta Est (Marko Obradović, field blends). Tour the Rajac pimnice (historic stone cellars). See the Bukovo Monastery (wine-making monks). Combine with Ćertales (Djerdap Gorge/Iron Gates on Danube).

🏛️ Belgrade & Šumadija

Start in Belgrade—natural wine bars: Organics Podrum (Raphaël Dayan), Wine Bar. Drive to Župa (2 hours south). Visit Botunjac (artist winemaker, Prokupac). Ivanović (King of Župa). Combine with Oplenac (Royal Mausoleum and vineyards), Šumadija traditional villages.

7-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Belgrade: Arrive. Natural wine bar hopping (Organics Podrum). Overnight Belgrade.

Day 2 - Fruška Gora: Drive to Subotica (2 hours). Visit Oszkár Maurer (Bakator, Kadarka, ancient varieties). Overnight Subotica or Novi Sad.

Day 3 - Fruška Gora: Visit Baša (biodynamic orange wines), Bikicki (National Park terroir). Monastery visits (Krušedol). Overnight Novi Sad.

Day 4 - Negotin: Drive east (3 hours) to Negotin. Visit Dalia (Kristina Lukić, Traminac). Tenuta Est (Marko Obradović, field blends). Tour Rajac pimnice. Overnight Rajac or Negotin.

Day 5 - Šumadija: Drive to Župa (3 hours). Visit Botunjac (Prokupac from 100-year vines). Ivanović (King of Župa tasting). Overnight Topola or Aranđelovac.

Day 6 - Royal Route: Visit Oplenac (Royal Complex and vineyards). Kovačević if time permits on return. Return to Belgrade (1.5 hours).

Day 7 - Belgrade: Final tastings, shopping. Departure.