Treading Lightly on the Land
Seresin Estate is one of New Zealand's most visionary wineries — founded by cinematographer Michael Seresin in 1992, and now the largest Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyard in Marlborough. [^204^] [^206^] Born in Wellington but based in London and Italy for most of his career, Seresin fell in love with wine through the food and wine culture of Tuscany. [^207^] After tasting Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc in San Francisco, he returned to New Zealand, bought 68 hectares in the Wairau Valley, and immediately began planting vines alongside Tuscan olive varieties and native species. [^207^] Within a year, he had gone organic — a purely idealistic decision based on an instinctive aversion to chemicals. [^207^] "I literally phoned up one night and told the manager, 'We're going organic.' He wasn't too happy about it." [^207^] Today, Seresin is not just organic but fully biodynamic, one of only two New Zealand estates accepted into Nicolas Joly's La Renaissance des Appellations. [^207^] The estate is an Old World farm in the New World — 80 hectares of vines, 1,500 olive trees, vegetable gardens, 50 sheep, chickens, cows, and goats, all feeding into a self-contained, holistic ecosystem. [^207^] Winemaker Tamra Kelly-Washington — a Marlborough native who started her career at Seresin before working in Italy, Australia, and the USA — returned in 2018 to craft elegant, structured wines with minimal handling. [^204^] Viticulturist Cameron Vawter is a passionate advocate for biodynamic farming, overseeing every hand-picked bunch with meticulous care. [^204^]
From Midnight Express to the Wairau Valley
Michael Seresin was born in Wellington, New Zealand, but left in the 1960s when sheep, not grapevines, covered the Wairau Plains. [^204^] He settled in Italy, where he was captivated by Italian food and wine culture and began his career as a cinematographer — eventually becoming famous for nine films with British director Alan Parker, and for working with Alfonso Cuarón on Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban. [^211^]
His interest in wine developed into a passion. In the early 1990s, after investigating opportunities to start a winery in Italy, he became aware of the quality wines emerging from his homeland. [^204^] A friend in San Francisco told him about Cloudy Bay. "You should try it," the friend said. So Seresin, who happened to be on his way to New Zealand, did. "I'm not a huge fan of Sauvignon Blanc," he says. "But I liked this." [^207^] Within a few months, he had bought 68 hectares in Marlborough. "That's how stupid I was," he jokes — two hectares were planted to Cabernet. Two years later, he planted Pinot Noir. [^207^]
Seresin has never claimed to be a wine expert. "It allows me to ask stupid questions," he says. [^207^] But he knows what he wants. Often, this has followed a non-conformist approach: he majored on Pinot Noir, not Sauvignon Blanc; his Sauvignon was — and still is — laced with Semillon and partially barrel-fermented; and within a year, he had gone organic. [^207^] It was a purely idealistic decision, based on a smattering of research in Tuscany and an instinctive aversion to chemicals. "If you spent 50 grand a year with the agrochemical companies, you got a free fridge." [^207^]
The estate released its first vintage in 1996. A year later, the Tatou Vineyard was purchased along with land in the Omaka Valley — today known as the Raupo Creek Vineyard. [^204^] In 2009, Seresin was awarded the Marlborough Environment Award by the Marlborough District Council. [^205^] The estate is certified organic by both US and NZ BioGro, and is the largest Marlborough vineyard to be certified Demeter biodynamic. [^204^]
"In essence it's traditional agriculture, it's how it was done before the chemical-age came along, and wine's been around a lot longer than the chemicals have."
— Michael Seresin
Three Sites, 1,500 Olive Trees, & a Self-Contained Farm
Seresin Estate is more than a vineyard. It is an Old World farm — something that probably delights the Europhile Seresin. [^207^] The 80-hectare estate boasts 1,500 olive trees, vegetable gardens, 50 sheep, several dozen chickens, and a handful of cows and goats — "all of which feed into the organic and biodynamic culture." [^207^] The team is trying to be fully self-contained. [^214^]
The three primary vineyards are the Home Vineyard, whose silty soils quickly give way to the pure gravel of the old Wairau River; the Tatou Vineyard, which sits at the ancient intersection of two Wairau river courses, with fine topsoil over larger cobbles; and Raupo Creek Vineyard, which sits over the hills in the Southern Valleys, with incredibly compacted clay soils "that required a jackhammer to dig soil pits." [^214^] All grapes are hand-picked, with the exception of those that go into the entry-level Momo brand. [^214^]
The biodynamic regimen is meticulous. Cow pat pits transform manure from lactating cows, eggshells, and other ingredients into silky, rich compost. [^214^] Traditional compost is piled in huge arcs. Biodynamic preparations are sprayed by a horse-drawn tractor. [^214^] An Alder tree near the goat run hosts deer bladders stuffed with Yarrow — preparation 502. [^214^] Cover crops and wildflowers create insectaries that promote beneficial insects. [^208^] Sheep, cows, and chickens control weeds and pests while providing natural compost. [^208^]
Cameron Vawter and his team oversee this complex ecosystem with passion and precision. The focus is on precise picking decisions, embracing acidity, and guiding pristine fruit through the winemaking process with minimal handling. [^204^] The result is wines that are elegant, structured, and a genuine reflection of their provenance. [^204^]
The original estate. Silty soils quickly give way to pure gravel of the old Wairau River. [^214^] Where it all began — the first vines planted by Michael Seresin in 1992, alongside Tuscan olive varieties and native plant species. [^204^]
Sits at the ancient intersection of two Wairau river courses. Fine topsoil over larger cobbles that dropped out of the converging flows. [^214^] Sold in 2018 to Ben Glover and Rhyan Wardman, who created The Coterie winemaking hub. [^204^] Seresin retains a contract to make wine there.
Over the hills in the Southern Valleys. Incredibly compacted clay soils "that required a jackhammer to dig soil pits." [^214^] Now the focus of Seresin's super-premium, single-vineyard wines. [^208^] The clay-rich soils are ideal for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. [^203^]
Certified organic by US and NZ BioGro. [^204^] The largest Marlborough vineyard certified Demeter biodynamic. [^204^] One of only two NZ estates in Nicolas Joly's La Renaissance des Appellations. [^207^] Marlborough Environment Award 2009. [^205^]
Wild Yeast, Whole Bunch, & Minimal Intervention
Seresin's winemaking is defined by a commitment to letting the grapes and terroir speak for themselves. [^208^] All wines are fermented using indigenous wild yeasts — a practice that took five or six years to fully achieve. [^214^] "We're finding balance and returning to more of an old-fashioned kind of winemaking," says former winemaker Clive Dougall. [^214^]
The reds are not filtered at all. [^214^] Additives are minimal — perhaps sulphur occasionally, and a fining agent if necessary, but even that is rare. [^214^] Macerations run between four and five weeks on the skins, with daily hand punch-downs. [^214^] New oak is extremely judicious, usually hovering around 30–35%. [^214^] A portion of the Pinot Noir is fermented with whole bunches to add complexity and structure. [^208^]
The Sauvignon Blanc is a departure from the Marlborough template. It is laced with 5% Semillon and partially barrel-fermented — approximately 10% in older French barriques, with around 40% of the final blend fermented using wild yeast for added complexity and texture. [^210^] Of the twenty-six different parcels from different vineyard blocks, all are pressed and fermented separately before blending. [^210^]
The wines are vegan-friendly — made without animal products for fining or filtration. [^208^] Sulphur is kept to a minimum. [^208^] The entire line is under screwcap, including the flagship Sun & Moon Pinot Noir — a decision made after "a full 50% cork failure rate in the year 2000." [^214^]
Beautiful Chaos — The Natural Wine Experiment
Seresin is not afraid to experiment. The Beautiful Chaos range represents the estate's foray into natural winemaking — amphora wild-fermented organic and biodynamic Pinot Noir, hand-picked from the Raupo vineyard site and bottled unfined, unfiltered, and unsulphured. [^203^] "This has a bit of natural wine funk, which dissipates with a bit of air to reveal a fresh, juicy, crunchy Pinot with a savoury, earthy edge," notes one retailer. [^203^] There is also a Beautiful Chaos skin-contact Pinot Gris & Riesling — "a truly beautiful combination" with a glowing orange-amber colour and strikingly Burgundian rosehip aromas. [^203^] And a Beautiful Chaos Syrah. [^203^] These are not the main business — "It's something that goes along behind the scenes," as Clive Dougall put it [^214^] — but they are a testament to Seresin's willingness to push boundaries while maintaining the integrity of its core range. This is a winery that respects tradition but is not bound by it.
A Cinematographer's Eye, A Farmer's Heart
Michael Seresin divides his time between filmmaking and wine. He visits New Zealand regularly — typically blocks of 2–6 weeks, two or three times a year. [^211^] He has a small but good cellar, mainly featuring northern Italian whites, central Italian reds, and high-end Burgundy. [^211^] When asked if he could take his picture, he advised: "Don't use the flash. The natural light is good in here." [^211^] This attention to light, texture, and natural beauty permeates everything about Seresin Estate.
The 'hand' logo is a symbol of strength, gateway to the heart, tiller of the soil, the mark of the artisan. [^206^] It embodies the philosophy of the estate — human connection to the land, craftsmanship over industrial production, and the belief that wine should be a natural expression of the soil from which it comes. [^206^]
In 2018, Seresin sold the Tatou vineyard and winery to local winemakers Ben Glover and Rhyan Wardman, who created The Coterie — a collaborative winemaking hub championing small-batch, single-site wines. [^204^] Seresin retained a contract to make wine there, and the focus shifted to producing super-premium, single-vineyard wines from the Raupo Creek vineyard. [^208^] "It was getting too big," Seresin said of the 1,300-tonne winery. "We were using about a third of it, and it was a pain in the arse — the joy had gone out of it." [^207^]
Tamra Kelly-Washington returned to Seresin in 2018 after making wine in the USA, Australia, and Italy. [^204^] Michael chose her because "I don't have to deal with testosterone. She actually started her career with us, then went off and learned the mechanics of it. She's worked outside New Zealand; she's quite urbane, quite sophisticated. And she's got a work ethos from her time in Italy, where they're farmers, not 9-to-5 winemakers." [^207^] More than anything, he adds, "I really like her as a person." [^207^]
"If the soil is treated with respect, it will both act and react accordingly. And you get a very different quality of person working for you when you're organic."
— Michael Seresin
The Seresin Range
Seresin produces wines across two labels. The Seresin Estate range represents the pinnacle — single-vineyard and estate expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and aromatic whites, all made with wild yeast, minimal intervention, and a focus on provenance. [^203^] The Momo range — Māori for "offspring" — offers accessible, organic expressions of Marlborough's classic varieties, made with the same biodynamic fruit but in a more immediate, fruit-forward style. [^209^] The Beautiful Chaos range is the experimental arm — natural, amphora-fermented, unsulphured wines for the adventurous drinker. [^203^] All wines are vegan-friendly, with minimal sulphur. Prices are approximate and in NZD.