Sicily

BEYOND MARSALA & BULK NERO

From the smoking terraces of Mount Etna to the limestone plains of Vittoria, discover Sicily's natural wine revolution—where amphorae hold volcanic reds and ancient grape varieties defy Mediterranean heat

Sicily Natural Wine Guide: Volcanic Etna & Amphora Traditions | Beyond Marsala & Bulk Nero d'Avola

110k Hectares Under Vine

23 DOCs & DOCGs

2,500 Years of Viticulture

2000 Etna Revolution

Revolution on Europe's Volcano

When the "new" Old World rediscovers its Greek roots

Sicily—Europe's largest island, the Mediterranean's crossroads, home to Mount Etna (Europe's most active volcano)—has undergone the most dramatic wine transformation in Italy. For decades, it was known for sweet Marsala (cooking wine), bulk Nero d'Avola shipped to northern Italy for blending, and oxidated whites. Today, it is the epicenter of natural wine innovation, where ancient amphora traditions meet volcanic terroir in ways that challenge Burgundy and the Rhône.

This guide explores the Etna renaissance and Vittoria revolution—where natural wine is not just a philosophy but a necessity given the extreme conditions. Arianna Occhipinti (Vittoria) is the global icon of Sicilian natural wine, proving that Frappato and Nero d'Avola can express limestone terroir with zero sulfur and native yeast. COS (Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, Pinuccia Strano) revolutionized Italian winemaking by importing Georgian qvevri (clay amphorae buried in the ground) to Vittoria in 2000, creating the "Pithos" movement. On Etna, Frank Cornelissen (Belgian outsider) produces extreme natural wines from indigenous varieties that challenge every preconception of winemaking.

What distinguishes Sicilian natural wine is volcanic terror management—Etna's vines grow at 600-1,200 meters on active lava flows, creating wines of smoke, ash, and electric acidity. It is defined by amphora/qvevri aging—the return to pithos (buried clay jars) for fermentation and maturation, a technique abandoned for millennia but revived by COS. And it is characterized by indigenous preservation—grapes like Nerello Mascalese, Carricante, Frappato, and Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) grown nowhere else in Europe, saved from extinction by natural producers seeking authenticity over yield.

Key Facts

Location: Southern Italy, Mediterranean island
History: Greek colonies (Magna Graecia), Arab influence
Key Regions: Etna, Vittoria, Faro, Noto, Pantelleria
Main Grapes: Nerello Mascalese, Frappato, Nero d'Avola, Carricante
Method: Amphora/qvevri, volcanic farming, bush vines (alberello)
Style: Volcanic reds, salty whites, amphora-aged
Notable: Fastest growing natural wine scene in Italy

From Greek Kolonai to Qvevri Revolution

Magna Graecia, Arab Zibibbo, and the amphora renaissance

8th Century BC

Greek Colonization

Greek settlers from Corinth and Naxos establish colonies at Megara Hyblaea and Naxos (modern Giardini-Naxos), bringing vines and the amphora tradition. The "Alberello" (bush vine) training system develops to survive heat and wind. Wines are exported across the Mediterranean in clay amphorae. The Etna slopes are already cultivated—the Greeks recognize the volcanic soil potential. "Mamertino" wine (from Messina) is mentioned by Pliny as Julius Caesar's favorite.

831-1091 AD

Arab Rule & Zibibbo

Arab (Saracen) rule brings irrigation, distillation (for medicinal purposes), and new grape varieties. Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) arrives, cultivated on Pantelleria island using the "alberello pantesco" (bush vines in hollows to catch moisture). The technique of drying grapes (passito) is refined. The name "Zibibbo" derives from the Arabic "zabib" (dried grape). Marsala area begins sweet wine production.

1773

Marsala & British Trade

English merchant John Woodhouse creates fortified Marsala wine, adding alcohol to survive sea voyage to England. Sicily becomes a supplier of bulk wine to northern Europe. The interior focuses on quantity over quality—Nero d'Avola becomes a workhorse grape for blending. Etna's terraced vineyards are abandoned as labor costs rise and emigration to America empties mountain villages. Phylloxera hits later than mainland Italy but causes devastation.

1980

COS & The Vittoria Awakening

Three friends (Cilia, Occhipinti, Strano) found COS in Vittoria, naming it after their initials. Initially conventional, they gradually embrace organic farming. The key revelation comes with the discovery that their ancestors used clay amphorae (giare) buried in the ground—like Georgian qvevri. They import qvevri from Georgia in 2000, creating "Pithos" (the Greek word for jar)—wines fermented and aged in clay, no wood, no temperature control, wild yeast. This revolutionizes Italian natural wine.

2004

Arianna Occhipinti & The New Generation

At age 21, Arianna Occhipinti (Giusto's niece) bottles her first wine—SP68 (named for the road passing the winery). She focuses on Frappato (light, aromatic, previously disdained as "inferior") and Nero d'Avola from limestone soils, using zero sulfur, native yeast, and cement tanks. Her success proves that natural wine can be elegant, clean, and commercially viable. She becomes the international face of Sicilian natural wine.

2000s-Present

The Etna Gold Rush

International attention focuses on Etna as "the Burgundy of the Mediterranean." Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) establishes the zone's credibility, though more conventional. Frank Cornelissen (Belgium) arrives in 2000, buying vineyards at extreme altitudes (1,000m+) and making "extreme natural" wines with no sulfur, no filtration, and long skin contact (amphorae and fiberglass). Lamoresca (Filippo Rizzo) and Portelli join the movement. The island becomes a magnet for young natural winemakers from across Europe seeking affordable volcanic land and ancient varieties.

"When we put the wine in the qvevri, we realized we weren't inventing something new. We were returning to what our grandfathers did—what the Greeks did 2,000 years ago. The clay doesn't lie. It shows the truth of the grape." — Giusto Occhipinti, COS

Etna, Vittoria & The Islands

Volcanic lava, limestone plains, and sea winds

🌋 Etna (Northeast)

Europe's most active volcano creates unique terroir: black lava soils (basalt, pumice, ash) rich in minerals but poor in organic matter. Vines grow at 600-1,200 meters elevation on terraced vineyards (contrade—single vineyards like Burgundy crus). The climate is extreme—hot days, cold nights, high UV radiation due to altitude. Nerello Mascalese (red) and Carricante (white) are the autochthonous grapes. The wines are characterized by smoke, ash, iron, and electric acidity. Natural producers work with alberello (bush vines) on pre-phylloxera rootstock (own-rooted) in some old vineyards.

🍇 Vittoria (Southeast)

The Valle dell'Acate and surrounding hills feature white limestone (chalk) and red clay soils—rare in Sicily where most soil is sand or lava. This is the home of Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Frappato + Nero d'Avola). The climate is hot but mitigated by sea breezes from the Mediterranean (15 km away). COS and Occhipinti are here. The limestone gives wines freshness and salinity despite the southern latitude. Perfect for natural wine—good acidity preserves wines without sulfur.

⚓ Faro (Northeast Tip)

The Straits of Messina—where Sicily nearly touches the mainland. Extreme winds, schist and sandy soils, and four indigenous grapes: Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Nocera, and Acitana. Palari (Salvatore Geraci) revived this nearly extinct DOC, farming organically on terraces overlooking the sea. The wines are saline, windy, with intense minerality. Very small production—natural by necessity due to isolation.

🏝️ Pantelleria (Island)

A volcanic island closer to Tunisia than Sicily (37°N latitude). Extreme heat, no freshwater (rainwater capture), and constant wind. The Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria) vines are grown as low bushes (alberello pantesco) in hollows (conche) to protect from wind and capture moisture. Marco De Bartoli (Marsala, now deceased) and his sons make natural passito here. The "Passito di Pantelleria" is one of the world's great sweet wines—naturally dried on mats in sun, fermented with native yeast, oxidatively aged. Also makes dry Zibibbo (rare).

🏛️ Noto (Southeast)

The Baroque towns of Noto and Pachino sit on white limestone cliffs. Famous for Nero d'Avola (originally from here, not Avola—the name is a corruption) and Moscato Bianco. The Eloro DOC covers this area. Gulfi (Vito Catania) makes biodynamic Nero d'Avola here, though more conventional. Natural producers focus on the autochthonous varieties and bush vines. The sea influence is strong—wines show salt and Mediterranean scrub (macchia) character.

🌾 Marsala & Trapani (West)

Historically the bulk wine capital, now seeing natural revival. Flat, sandy, limestone soils. Grillo and Catarratto (whites) and Perricone (red, rare). Marco De Bartoli revolutionized Marsala by making "Vecchio Samperi"—unsweetened, unfortified, oxidatively aged Marsala (essentially natural wine). His children continue. Valdibella cooperative near Camporeale makes natural Catarratto and Perricone. The area is hot—challenging for natural wine without altitude, but sea breezes help.

Regional Natural Wine Character

Zone	Soil	Grapes	Natural Wine Character
Etna	Volcanic lava, basalt, ash	Nerello Mascalese, Carricante	Smoky, salty, high acid
Vittoria	White limestone, red clay	Frappato, Nero d'Avola	Elegant, floral, chalky
Faro	Schist, sand, wind-blown	Nerello, Nocera, Acitana	Salty, windswept, mineral
Pantelleria	Volcanic, obsidian, pumice	Zibibbo (Muscat)	Aromatic, honeyed, volcanic
Noto	White limestone, coastal	Nero d'Avola, Moscato	Dark, rich, saline

The Featured Producers

Volcanic pioneers and amphora revolutionaries

Vittoria – The Amphora Heartland

Arianna Occhipinti

Vittoria, Ragusa

The global icon of Sicilian natural wine. Started at 21 with 1 hectare (2004), now 25 hectares, all organic/biodynamic. "SP68" (Frappato-Nero blend, named for the road) is the gateway—fresh, floral, chillable. "Il Frappato" (single variety) shows the grape's transparent, Pinot-like potential. "Siccagno" is pure Nero d'Avola—dark but elegant. All wines are zero sulfur added, native yeast, cement tanks. The winery is a stunning dry-stone building (palmento). Arianna's advocacy for Frappato (previously considered inferior) changed Sicilian viticulture. Wines are clean, precise, elegant—dispelling the myth that natural wine must be funky.

Icon Zero Sulfur Frappato Specialist Female Winemaker

COS

Vittoria, Ragusa

The founders of the Italian amphora movement. Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Pinuccia Strano founded 1980. The "Pithos" line (red and white aged in Georgian qvevri buried underground) revolutionized Italian wine—showing that clay could replace oak and steel. "Cerasuolo di Vittoria" (Frappato-Nero blend) is the benchmark—elegant, floral, aged in large Slavonian oak. "Pithos Rosso" (amphora-aged Frappato-Nero) is oxidated, earthy, unique. "Zibibbo in Pithos" (orange wine from Muscat) is legendary. The estate is biodynamic, extremely low sulfur, focused on expressing limestone terroir through ancient methods.

Amphora Pioneers Pithos Qvevri Biodynamic

Lamoresca

Vittoria area

Filippo Rizzo (originally from Piedmont) and Nancy Kerschen (American) farm 10 hectares of olives and vines on high hills (450m) near Vittoria. Extremely natural—organic, no additions, no sulfur, amphora and fiberglass aging. "Lamoresca" (the red) is Nerello Mascalese and Frappato—light, peppery, herbal. "Rosso" is lighter still. The wines are rustic, honest, "farm wine" in the best sense. Also makes excellent olive oil. Represents the "expat naturalist" community that transformed Sicily—outsiders who saw potential in abandoned land.

Expat Naturalist No Sulfur High Altitude Rustic

Etna – The Volcanic Extremists

Frank Cornelissen

Passopisciaro, Etna North

Belgian outsider who revolutionized Etna winemaking. Bought 15 hectares at 1,000m elevation on Etna's north face (2000). Extreme natural philosophy: no sulfur ever, no temperature control, no filtration, no fining, indigenous yeast only. Uses amphorae (Spanish tinaja), fiberglass, and sometimes Georgian qvevri. "Susucaru" (the rosato) became a global natural wine phenomenon—cloudy, savory, volcanic. "MunJebel" (red) and "Magma" (single vineyard) are profound expressions of Nerello Mascalese. Controversial—wines are inconsistent by design, expressing vintage variation fully. A philosopher-winemaker who questions all oenological dogma.

Extreme Natural No Sulfur Ever Belgian Philosopher

Vino di Anna

Alcara, Etna North

Anna Martens (Australian) and Eric Narioo (French, of Vouette et Sorbee Champagne) make wine on Etna's north slope. Palmento (traditional stone winery) with qvevri buried in the lava rock. "Qvevri Rosso" is Nerello Mascalese with long skin contact (6+ months) in clay—amber-red, tannic, saline. "Bianco" is Carricante and Grecanico—volcanic, mineral, aged in qvevri. Also makes "Palmento Bianco" (in the traditional press) and sparkling (metodo ancestrale). The wines are pure, precise, and distinctly volcanic. Represents the "Champagne-to-Etna" migration of skilled natural winemakers.

Qvevri Long Skin Contact International Palmento

Graci

Passopisciaro, Etna North

Alberto Graci (Milanese banker turned winemaker) focuses on traditional Etna winemaking with natural leanings. Organic farming, native yeast, large old oak (botti) and some qvevri. "Arcuria" (single vineyard Bianco from Carricante) is a benchmark—smoky, salty, age-worthy. "Barbabecchi" (rosso from pre-phylloxera vines 100+ years old) is profound. More "polished" than Cornelissen but still transparent and traditional. The winery uses the traditional palmento (stone pressing building) gravity system.

Traditional Pre-Phylloxera Carricante Polished

The Islands & West – Salt and Sun

Marco De Bartoli

Marsala & Pantelleria

The late Marco De Bartoli (died 2016) revolutionized Marsala by rejecting the industrial fortified style, making "Vecchio Samperi"—oxidatively aged, unfortified, natural Marsala from Grillo grapes. His children (Renato, Sebastiano, Giuseppina) continue the estate, maintaining biodynamic farming and natural methods. "Integer" (Grillo, no sulfur) and "Rosa del Golfo" (rosato) are natural wine favorites. On Pantelleria, they make "Bukkuram" (Passito from Zibibbo)—naturally dried, oxidatively aged in barrels, no added alcohol. The benchmark for natural sweet wines in Italy.

Marsala Revolution Oxidative Passito Legacy

Valdibella

Camporeale, Palermo

Social cooperative (coop) founded 1998, organic and natural. An anomaly—proving that natural wine doesn't require small scale. "Catarratto" (Lucido and Extra Lucido) is the focus—Sicily's most planted white, usually neutral, here made with skin contact and character. Also "Perricone" (rare red), "Nero d'Avola", and "Zibibbo". The cooperative includes marginalized youth and promotes social agriculture. Wines are honest, rustic, affordable—true "vino da tavola" revolution.

Cooperative Social Catarratto Affordable

Guccione

Monreale, Palermo

Ester and Rosario Guccione farm 7 hectares near Monreale (outside Palermo) organically since 2000, natural since 2004. Extreme natural—no sulfur, no filtration, spontaneous fermentation. "Macerato" (skin-contact Catarratto) is the star—orange, tannic, wild. "Rosu" (Perricone-Nero blend) is funky, earthy, unique. The wines divide opinion—some find them too rustic, others love the authenticity. Represents the "wild west" of Sicilian natural wine—experimental, unpolished, true to place.

Wild Experimental Orange Wine Divisive

"Frappato was considered a minor grape—too light, too aromatic, not serious. But when you taste it from limestone soils, made naturally, it has the transparency of Pinot Noir and the soul of Sicily." — Arianna Occhipinti

The Grapes of Sicily

Volcanic reds and ancient aromatics

Indigenous Red • The Volcanic

Nerello Mascalese

The "Pinot Noir of the Mediterranean"—light-colored, transparent, high-acid, grown on Etna's lava terraces. Indigenous to Etna, possibly related to Sangiovese but distinct. Thrives at 600-1,200m altitude on black volcanic soils. Naturally high in acidity and moderate tannins make it perfect for natural winemaking—resists oxidation better than Nero d'Avola. Flavors: red cherry, rose petal, smoke, ash, balsamic, iron-blood minerality. When made in qvevri/amphora, shows tea-like tannins and savory umami notes.

Style: Light color, high acid, smoky
Natural Wine Role: Amphora aging, whole cluster
Top Producers: Cornelissen, Graci, Vino di Anna
Regions: Etna, Faro, Vittoria (high altitude)
Notable: Own-rooted (pre-phylloxera) vines 100+ years old

Indigenous Red • The Aromatic

Frappato

Vittoria's treasure—light, aromatic, fruity, low tannin. Previously blended away or ignored, now celebrated by natural producers for its transparency. DNA shows it's related to Sangiovese but genetically distinct. Makes wines of violet, wild strawberry, white pepper, and pomegranate. Usually blended with Nero d'Avola for Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (40-50% required), but monovarietal expressions (Occhipinti, COS) show its potential as Sicily's answer to Pinot Noir or Gamay. Naturally low in phenolics, requires gentle handling.

Style: Light, aromatic, floral, low tannin
Natural Wine Role: Monovarietal, carbonic, chillable
Top Producers: Occhipinti, COS, Lamoresca
Regions: Vittoria (Ragusa province)
Notable: DOC requires 40% minimum in Cerasuolo blends

Indigenous White • The Volcanic

Carricante

Etna's white grape—high acid, mineral, smoky, grown at high altitude (800m+). Usually blended with Catarratto in Etna Bianco DOC (min 60% Carricante), but pure expressions show racy acidity, lemon, almond, and volcanic ash character. Naturally high in acid (8-9 g/L tartaric), making it ideal for natural wine without sulfur. Aged in qvevri or cement, it develops saline, almost iodine notes. One of Italy's most ageable whites—10+ years easily.

Style: High acid, mineral, smoky, saline
Natural Wine Role: Qvevri aging, long lees contact
Top Producers: Graci, Benanti, Vino di Anna
Regions: Etna (east slope best)
Notable: Must be 800m+ elevation for quality

More Sicilian Varieties

The island's diverse heritage

Nero d'Avola: Sicily's most famous red—dark, rich, chocolatey, from Noto. Natural versions (Occhipinti) show limestone elegance rather than overripe jam.

Zibibbo (Muscat of Alexandria): Ancient aromatic grape from Pantelleria. Makes Passito (dried sweet) or dry whites. Natural versions are intensely floral, orange-blossom, with volcanic salt.

Catarratto: Most planted white in Sicily—usually neutral. Skin-contact natural versions (Valdibella, Guccione) show almond, herb, and tannic structure.

Grecanico: Same as Garganega (Soave), grown in western Sicily. Mineral, citrusy, often blended.

Perricone: Rare red from Marsala area—tannic, dark, herbal. Nearly extinct, saved by natural producers.

Nocera: Faro DOC component—aromatic, spicy, rare.

Grillo: Marsala grape, now making crisp whites. Natural versions are saline, lemony, textured.

Food Pairing & Sicilian Cuisine

Caponata, seafood, and volcanic agriculture

For Etna Reds (Nerello)

Volcanic wines meet mountain cuisine

Pasta alla Norma: Eggplant, tomato, ricotta salata
Grilled swordfish: With salmoriglio (lemon/garlic)
Caponata: Sweet/sour eggplant agrodolce
Pasta con le sarde: Sardines, fennel, pine nuts
Pecorino pepato: Peppery sheep cheese

For Vittoria (Frappato/Amphora)

Elegant reds meet Ragusa cuisine

Scacce: Ragusa-style stuffed flatbread
Caciocavallo: Aged cow cheese (Ragusano DOP)
Porcini mushrooms: Grilled with rosemary
Tuna: Cured or grilled (Marzamemi)
Chocolate: Modica chocolate (with Frappato)

For Amphora/Skin-Contact Whites

Orange wines meet Sicilian antipasti

Arancini: Fried rice balls (meat or butter)
Sarde a beccafico: Stuffed sardines
Panelle: Chickpea fritters (Palermo)
Olive ascinate: Breaded fried olives
Anchovies: Fresh or marinated

For Passito & Sweet Wines

Zibibbo meets Sicilian desserts

Cannoli: Ricotta-filled pastries
Cassata: Ricotta cake with marzipan
Granita: Almond or coffee (breakfast!)
Amaretti: Almond cookies
Mostarda: Mustard-preserved fruit

Sicilian Culinary Traditions

Agrodolce, Arab legacy, and sea mountains

Agrodolce: The sweet-and-sour balance (capers, raisins, pine nuts, vinegar) reflects Arab influence. Perfect with Etna's acidic reds.

Street Food: Palermo is famous for arancini, panelle, crocche. Catania for cipollina (onion pastry). Natural Frappato is the perfect street wine.

Seafood: Sicily is surrounded by sea—swordfish (pesce spada), tuna tonnara (traditional fishing), anchovies, sardines. Etna whites (Carricante) match perfectly.

Pistachio: Bronte (Etna slopes) produces the world's best pistachios (DOP). Used in pesto, pastries, and paired with Etna Bianco.

Citrus: Mount Etna's foothills grow blood oranges (Tarocco). The acidity mirrors Carricante wines.

Ricotta: Sheep ricotta is sacred—in pasta, cannoli, cassata. Salty aged ricotta (ricotta salata) grates over pasta alla Norma with Nerello.

Visiting Natural Sicily

From Catania to the limestone plains

🌋 Etna (North Slope)

Base in Randazzo (medieval town, highest on Etna) or Passopisciaro. Frank Cornelissen (appointment, steep dirt road). Graci (Passopisciaro, easier access). Vino di Anna (Alcara, near Randazzo). Combine with Catania (Baroque city, fish market) and Taormina (touristy but beautiful). Visit Bronte for pistachios. Best in May-June (flowering) or September-October (harvest, grapes visible). Avoid August (tourist crowds, extreme heat on coast—Etna is cooler).

🍇 Vittoria & Southeast

Base in Ragusa Ibla (UNESCO Baroque town) or Scicli (charming, less touristy). Arianna Occhipinti (appointment essential—tastings in stunning winery). COS (tastings in historic palmento). Lamoresca (more casual, call ahead). Combine with Noto (Baroque architecture), Marzamemi (fishing village), and Modica (chocolate). Best in spring (April-May) or autumn (September).

🏝️ Pantelleria & Islands

Fly or ferry to Pantelleria (from Trapani or Palermo). Marco De Bartoli estate (Bukkuram vineyard—iconic caper bushes and Zibibbo vines). Stay in dammusi (traditional stone houses with domed roofs). Combine with Trapani (salt flats) and Marsala (De Bartoli main winery). Also visit Aegadian Islands (Favignana) for tuna and Grillo wines. Best in May-June or September (avoid July-August heat).

Sicily Natural Wine Travel Tips

Navigating the island extremes

Timing: Harvest is early—late August for Nero d'Avola, mid-September for Etna (later due to altitude). October is ideal (vendemmia festivals, cooler weather).

Transport: Car essential. Sicily is large—Etna to Vittoria is 2.5 hours. Roads are good but winding. Plan 1 week minimum for multi-region visits.

Language: English spoken at main natural estates (Occhipinti, COS, Cornelissen). Less so at smaller places (Valdibella). Sicilian dialect is strong—distinct from Italian.

Etna Safety: Check volcanic activity—eruptions are frequent but usually safe for tourists. The north slope (where most wineries are) is generally safer than east. Wear sturdy shoes for vineyard visits (lava rock is sharp).

Food Integration: Sicily has Italy's best street food. Plan lunches at wineries (often included in tastings) but save appetite for evening antipasti tours in Catania or Palermo.

Amphora Acquisition: Some producers (COS) sell used qvevri or can connect you to Georgian amphora makers. Shipping is expensive but possible.

Island Hopping: Ferries connect Sicily to Pantelleria, the Aeolian Islands (Vulcano, Salina—Malvasia), and mainland. Aeolians have their own natural wine scene (Malvasia delle Lipari).

10-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Catania: Arrive Catania. Fish market lunch. Drive to Etna foothills. Overnight Randazzo.

Day 2 - Etna North: Morning: Graci or Vino di Anna. Lunch in Randazzo. Afternoon: Cornelissen (appointment). Overnight Randazzo.

Day 3 - East Coast: Drive to Taormina (touristy but beautiful Greek theater). Continue to Noto. Overnight Noto.

Day 4 - Vittoria: Morning: Arianna Occhipinti (tasting). Lunch: Winery or Scicli. Afternoon: COS. Overnight Ragusa Ibla.

Day 5 - Southeast: Explore Ragusa Ibla and Modica (chocolate tasting). Lamoresca (if appointment). Overnight Marina di Ragusa (beach).

Day 6 - Agrigento & West: Drive west (3 hours). Valley of Temples (Agrigento). Continue to Marsala. Overnight Marsala.

Day 7 - Marsala: Morning: Marco De Bartoli (tasting/lunch). Afternoon: Salt flats at sunset. Overnight Trapani.

Day 8 - Palermo: Drive to Palermo (1.5 hours). Street food tour (Panelle, arancini). Guccione or Valdibella (appointment). Overnight Palermo.

Day 9 - Monreale: Morning: Cathedral (Byzantine mosaics). Afternoon: Portelli or free time. Overnight Palermo.

Day 10 - Departure: Fly from Palermo or Catania.

Alternative: Add 3 days for Pantelleria (ferry from Trapani) or Aeolian Islands (hydrofoil from Milazzo).