Standing Alongside Prestige Champagnes
Small Wonder is a family-owned Tasmanian wine estate dedicated to quality small-batch winemaking and regenerative viticulture. [^20^] Nestled within native bushland on the western ridge of the Tamar Valley, the estate was born from the acquisition of the former Goaty Hill vineyard in 2020 by the Overstory group — which also holds vineyards in Margaret River. [^23^] Vineyard manager Wayne Nunn, in consultation with viticulturist Dylan Grigg, converted the site from 20 years of conventional practices to fully certified organic viticulture (ACO 13305). [^23^] Head winemaker Andrew Trio leads a light-touch, detail-oriented approach in a purpose-built winery completed in January 2024 — bringing the entire winemaking process on-site for the first time. [^25^] In December 2024, Small Wonder expanded into the Coal River Valley with the acquisition of a second vineyard, doubling production capacity and strengthening their commitment to cool-climate expression across Tasmania. [^14^] The results speak for themselves: in a blind JancisRobinson.com tasting in Singapore, Small Wonder's wines were lined up against prestige Champagnes, hallowed Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Barolo — and more than held their own. [^13^]
From Goaty Hill to Small Wonder
The Small Wonder story begins with a mature vineyard and a new vision. In 2020, the Overstory group — an Australian wine company with holdings in Margaret River — acquired the former Goaty Hill property in the Tamar Valley after two decades of operation by its founders. [^23^] The site had 20 years of conventional vineyard management behind it. The new team saw not a finished product, but a foundation.
Vineyard manager Wayne Nunn, working closely with viticulturist Dylan Grigg, embarked on one of the most significant conversions in Tasmanian wine: transforming a conventionally farmed site into a fully certified organic operation. [^23^] This was not simply a matter of changing sprays. It required a complete rethink of canopy management, pruning regimes, soil health, and biodiversity. "The adoption of cane pruning across specific blocks has opened the canopy and reduced disease pressure," Grigg explains. "This is essential as organic production is not just about spraying but all the finer details that go into site management." [^23^]
The original vineyard, first planted in 1998, now spans almost 25 hectares across many aspects, with blocks on different orientations and soil types. [^23^] Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Gris make up the varietal mix — an ideal makeup for the site, says Grigg. [^23^] "The vineyard is close to bodies of water so is moderated from the extreme frosts and springtime chills of other regions. We have enough sunshine and natural humidity to avoid excessive stress and reliance on water. The combination of aspect, rainfall and prevailing winds allow us to ripen fruit at moderate sugar levels while retaining good acidity." [^23^]
The first Small Wonder wines were released in 2022. In January 2024, a purpose-built winery designed by Kerry Hill Architects was completed, bringing all winemaking on-site for the first time in the estate's history. [^25^] Then, in December 2024, Small Wonder acquired the 24-hectare Marengo Road Vineyard in the Coal River Valley — planted between 2017 and 2019 with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Viognier — currently in transition to organic certification. [^14^] The estate now spans two of Tasmania's most celebrated cool-climate regions.
"The adoption of cane pruning across specific blocks has opened the canopy and reduced disease pressure, this is essential as organic production is not just about spraying but all the finer details that go into site management."
— Dylan Grigg, Viticulturist
Tamar Valley & Coal River Valley — Two Sites, One Philosophy
Small Wonder operates across two distinct Tasmanian terroirs, each contributing a different voice to the estate's portfolio. The original Tamar Valley vineyard sits at 41 degrees south and 50 metres above sea level on the Western Ridge, nestled within native bushland. [^21^] The newer Coal River Valley site adds another dimension entirely — warmer, drier, and perfectly suited to the same cool-climate varieties with a different expression.
The Tamar Valley site is ACO-certified organic (ACO 13305). [^20^] Aromatic whites — Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Gris — thrive in the grey sandy soils of the upper slopes, while Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are planted across silt loams and ferris mudstone. [^20^] The team has undertaken concerted works to map and understand the micro terroirs of the site, using solar radiation mapping and ground truthing to identify areas with greater quality potential. [^23^] "By digging down into the detail of our site we can identify attributes that allow us to fine tune management and wine quality potential within blocks and within rows," says Grigg. [^23^]
The Coal River Valley acquisition — the Marengo Road Vineyard — was planted between 2017 and 2019 and features predominantly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay alongside Shiraz, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Viognier. [^14^] Overstory CEO Paul McArdle notes: "Consistent with our approach at our Tamar Valley location, we are committed to achieving organic certification for the Coal River Valley vineyard over the next three years, reinforcing our commitment to sustainable, high-quality winemaking practices." [^14^] The acquisition will enable Small Wonder to double its production volume over the next three years. [^14^]
Sustainability is embedded in every layer of the operation. The purpose-built Tamar Valley winery, completed in January 2024, is powered primarily by green energy, with solar panels providing renewable electricity. [^25^] Rainwater is harvested and reused. A best-practice wastewater system enables treated water to be recycled via dispersal bed irrigation. All tanks are double-walled, and the building is thermally insulated, allowing for exceptional temperature control with minimal input. [^25^] Native spotted gum, recycled steel, and local craftsmanship shape a structure that is contemporary, durable, and subtly expressive of its setting.
Original estate, first planted 1998. ACO-certified organic (ACO 13305). [^20^] Western Ridge, 41°S, 50m above sea level, nestled in native bushland. [^21^] Grey sandy soils (upper slopes — aromatic whites), silt loams and ferris mudstone (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay). [^20^] Close to bodies of water — moderated frosts, natural humidity, moderate sugar levels with good acidity. [^23^]
Acquired December 2024. Planted 2017–2019. [^14^] Predominantly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, plus Shiraz, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Viognier. Currently in transition to organic certification over three years. [^14^] Will double production volume. Adds warmer, drier terroir expression to the portfolio.
Solar radiation mapping and ground truthing identify quality potential down to the shoot level. [^23^] Block 2 Pinot has a pronounced slope that picks up more sunlight and warmth — identified for targeted harvest operations. [^23^] Everything is picked and sorted by hand, with multiple passes based on soil type, vine vigour, and sun exposure. [^23^]
Purpose-built winery completed January 2024, designed by Kerry Hill Architects. [^25^] Solar-powered, rainwater harvesting, best-practice wastewater recycling. Double-walled tanks, thermal insulation, gravity-led handling. Native revegetation, cover crops, and soil restoration throughout. [^25^]
Light Touch, Deep Detail
Head winemaker Andrew Trio and winemaker Ockie Myburgh lead a team that brings a light touch to every stage — but that lightness is the product of extraordinary attention to detail. [^25^] Picking is guided by flavour and acidity over sugar ripeness, yielding wines with lower alcohol and a more precise expression of site. All fruit is hand-harvested from organically farmed vineyards. [^25^]
In the winery, parcels are kept separate by clone, rootstock, pruning method, soil type, vine vigour, and maturity. [^25^] Fermentation occurs in small, temperature-controlled vessels — stainless steel, oak, and concrete — with minimal additions. Handling is gentle throughout, with gravity used wherever possible. For wines matured in barrel, new oak is used sparingly, lending subtle structure without overwhelming character. [^25^]
The Pinot Noir program exemplifies this approach. The Landscape Series Pinot Noir is intended to be softer and more fruit-forward, often coming from the lower portions of the vineyard on sandier soils, handled gently through fermentation. [^23^] The soils at the top of the hill have greater clay content, producing earth-driven wines with greater detail and structure — these go into the Auburn Pinot Noir and single-block wines. [^23^] "Our pinot blocks are often split into multiple picks based on soil type, vine vigour, and sun exposure, which affect the flavour and tannin profile of the resulting wines," Trio explains. [^23^]
The white wines receive the same meticulous treatment. Detailed work in the Riesling blocks has enhanced texture and concentration on the palate with a more seamless integration of fruit weight and acidity. [^23^] The Chardonnays are whole-bunch-pressed, with free-run juice settled overnight before racking with light, fluffy lees to enhance texture. Wild fermentation in barrique with restrained new oak, regular bâtonnage, and careful blending produce wines of sophistication and restraint. [^13^]
The JancisRobinson.com Blind Tasting — Singapore 2025
In a rigorous blind tasting curated by Richard Hemming MW for JancisRobinson.com, Small Wonder's 2023 Auburn Chardonnay and Block 3 Pinot Noir were lined up against prestige Champagnes, hallowed Bordeaux, Burgundy, Hermitage, Franciacorta, Barolo, and South Africa's Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. [^13^] Hemming noted that the Tasmanian cohort "can stand alongside prestige Champagnes… and hallowed Bordeaux." [^13^] The 2023 Block 3 Pinot Noir emerged as one of the highest-scoring Tasmanian Pinot Noirs in the line-up, with Hemming describing it as "utterly compelling and delicious" — "vivid fruit personality, like cherry candy with strong violet character in the foreground. Sweeps you off your feet, a real swooner." [^13^] The 2023 Auburn Chardonnay sat among the top Tasmanian Chardonnays, praised for its "sophisticated air without undue effort." [^13^] For a region that represents just one per cent of Australia's total wine production, this is validation of the quiet decisions behind every pick, press, and pour.
A New Brand on a Mature Property
Small Wonder is a new brand on a mature property — a distinction that defines its character. The vineyard has history: two decades of conventional farming, established vines, and a deep understanding of the site's rhythms. The brand has ambition: certified organic viticulture, micro-terroir mapping, a purpose-built green-energy winery, and a second vineyard in one of Tasmania's most exciting regions. [^23^]
The Overstory group, led by CEO Paul McArdle, provides the strategic backing for this growth while allowing the winemaking team the creative freedom to pursue quality above all else. [^14^] The acquisition of the Coal River Valley vineyard in December 2024 signals serious intent: Small Wonder is not content to be a boutique curiosity. It aims to be one of Tasmania's defining organic wine estates.
The team is young, skilled, and deeply committed. Andrew Trio brings a measured, detail-oriented approach to winemaking. Wayne Nunn and Dylan Grigg have proven that a conventionally farmed vineyard can be successfully converted to organic production without sacrificing quality — in fact, enhancing it. The entire operation is built on the belief that thoughtful practices can have a lasting impact: reducing environmental footprint, respecting the land and community, and celebrating Tasmania's cool-climate potential. [^20^]
A new architecturally designed cellar door and restaurant are currently under construction, set to open in early 2026. [^20^] Visitors already enjoy tastings at the existing cellar door alongside gourmet platters, with the Vin Explorer tour offering a 45-minute behind-the-scenes look at the working winery. [^25^] The future is one of growth — but growth guided by the same principles that built the estate: organic integrity, terroir transparency, and the quiet confidence that comes from knowing that the best wines are made in the vineyard, not manufactured in the cellar.
"By digging down into the detail of our site we can identify attributes that allow us to fine tune management and wine quality potential within blocks and within rows. Our site is special as we have many aspects to play with."
— Dylan Grigg
The Small Wonder Range
Small Wonder produces wines across two distinct ranges. The Landscape Series captures the diversity of the estate's cool-climate wines — vibrant whites, elegant reds, and sparkling wines — with labels featuring slightly surreal archival scenes set within iconic Tasmanian landscapes. [^15^] The Auburn Series, launched in late 2024, is a premium collection of single-varietal wines produced from the finest fruit, highlighting the Tamar Valley's unique terroir and commitment to craftsmanship. [^13^] All wines are grown, made, and bottled on-site with minimal intervention. Prices are approximate and in AUD.