Azienda Agricola Trinchero
Monferrato
a historical estate located in Agliano Terme in the heart of the Monferrato region in Piedmont, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of a family dedicated to a profound, almost purist, philosophy of winemaking. The winery, which has been in the Trinchero family for generations, is currently led by Ezio Giacomo Trinchero, a figure known for his deep respect for his land and a remarkable ability to craft wines of profound complexity and longevity.
Viticulture: A Veneration of Terroir
The technical foundation of Trinchero's wines begins in the vineyard, where the philosophy is one of minimal intervention and absolute respect for the terroir. The winery manages 13 hectares of vineyards on soils predominantly composed of clay and limestone. This medium-textured soil composition provides a rich, mineral backbone to the grapes. Ezio Trinchero adheres to a rigorous, hands-on approach to viticulture, which includes strictly manual harvesting. He operates with a deep belief that the quality of the wine is directly tied to the health of the vine and the integrity of the grape. The vineyards are worked organically, though without official certification, with a focus on preserving the delicate balance of the soil and promoting a natural ecosystem. This approach is exemplified in their flagship vineyard, "Vigna del Noce," where some Barbera vines, planted as early as 1929, are still producing concentrated, low-yield crops.
Winemaking: The Art of Patience and Precision
The winemaking process at Trinchero is a deliberate and low-tech affair that prioritizes the natural expression of the grape over technological manipulation. All fermentations are spontaneous, initiated by indigenous yeasts present on the grapes, a key tenet of their natural winemaking approach. The maceration periods are notably long, often extending for over 30 days, which allows for a full and gradual extraction of phenolics, aromas, and color. This extended contact with the skins is crucial for building the structure and character of their wines.
Aging is exclusively performed in large, used Slavonian oak casks or, in some cases, old chestnut barrels. For instance, some vintages of their "Vigna del Noce" Barbera d'Asti Superiore are aged for as long as five years in a large 6,000-liter chestnut cask. This choice of vessel and long aging period allows for a slow, gentle micro-oxygenation, resulting in wines that are not defined by wood flavors but instead achieve a refined texture, integrated tannins, and immense aging potential. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration, and sulfur is added only minimally, if at all, at the time of bottling. This "unfiltered" and "unfined" approach preserves the wine's natural texture and layers of flavor, resulting in a product that is a pure, unadulterated reflection of its origin.
Key Wines and Technical Achievements
The Trinchero winery is best known for its expressions of Barbera, a grape that the family was among the first in the region to bottle for long aging, elevating it from a simple, everyday wine to one of great depth and complexity. Their most iconic wine is the Vigna del Noce, made from their oldest Barbera vines. This wine is a technical masterpiece, showcasing how a traditional approach can yield a product that rivals the best Barolos in terms of structure and aging capability.
Beyond Barbera, Ezio Trinchero also works with other indigenous Piedmontese varietals, each handled with the same meticulous care:
Grignolino: A red wine fermented in cement tanks with a short maceration, resulting in a fresh and vibrant style.
Freisa: A red wine that undergoes a long maceration of up to 40 days, revealing its complex and structured character.
Dolcetto: Macerated for about a month, producing a wine with robust tannins and a distinctive profile.
Slarina: Ezio has also ventured into this extremely rare and interesting grape, further solidifying his commitment to preserving the heritage of his region.
In an era of standardized winemaking, Ezio Trinchero’s work stands out for its uncompromising dedication to natural processes and a deep-seated belief in the potential of his grapes. His technical skill lies not in the application of modern technology, but in his intuitive understanding of the vine, the soil, and the inherent character of the wine, creating authentic and memorable expressions of Piedmont.