Ukraine

THE BLACK SEA RENAISSANCE

From the limestone cliffs of Bessarabia to the volcanic soils of Zakarpattia, discover Ukraine's natural wine revolution—where ancient Telti-Kuruk vines meet qvevri fermentation and survival becomes an act of terroir expression

Ukraine Natural Wine Guide: The Black Sea Renaissance | Telti-Kuruk Pet-Nats & Oxidative Rkatsiteli

42k Hectares Under Vine

13 Wine Regions

420BC Greek Colonies

2014 Natural Wave Began

Beyond Soviet Industrialization

When ancient amphorae meet wartime resilience

Ukraine—bordered by the Black Sea, carved by the Dniester and Danube, stretching from the Carpathian Mountains to the steppes—has one of Europe's oldest wine cultures, yet remains its most undiscovered. Greek colonists planted vines in Crimea and Odesa around 420 BC, establishing Chersonesus as a wine trading hub. Monks preserved viticulture through the Middle Ages, and 19th-century nobility (Prince Trubetskoy, Count Golitsyn) created sparkling wine estates that rivaled Champagne. Yet Soviet collectivization (1920s-1980s) reduced this heritage to industrial "portwine" and sweet mass-market products.

This guide explores the resurgence of Ukrainian natural wine—a movement born from the 2014 Revolution of Dignity and hardened by the 2022 full-scale invasion. Vladimir Gritsay (Beykush Winery, Mykolaiv) crafts Telti-Kuruk in qvevri meters from the frontline, his vineyards shelled but his resolve unbroken. Serhiy Shcherbak (Zakarpattia) revives Carpathian traditions with zero-sulfur Rkatsiteli. Olena and Serhiy Kulinichenko (Saffron) work with refugee winemakers in the Odesa hills. Dmytro Sydorenko (Chizay) explores volcanic terroirs near the Romanian border.

What distinguishes Ukrainian natural wine is resilience as terroir—winemakers vinifying in bomb shelters, shipping through war zones, and reviving indigenous varieties (Telti-Kuruk, Kobernyi, Tsitronyi) abandoned during Soviet standardization. The wines are often profound: amber Rkatsiteli with notes of dried apricot and walnut, Telti-Kuruk pet-nats that taste of Black Sea salt, Saperavi with the grip of Georgian mountains but the elegance of cool-climate precision. This is wine as resistance, history, and hope.

Key Facts

Location: Eastern Europe, 44°N to 52°N latitude
History: 2,400+ years (Greek colonies)
Key Regions: Odesa, Zakarpattia, Mykolaiv, Kherson (occupied)
Main Grapes: Telti-Kuruk, Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, Cabernet Sauvignon
Method: Qvevri, wild ferment, no filtration, organic
Style: Amber, oxidative, high acid, mineral
Notable: Fastest growing natural wine scene in Europe

From Chersonesus to Chornobaivka

Two millennia of viticulture under threat

420 BC

Greek Colonization

Milesian Greeks establish Chersonesus (modern Sevastopol, Crimea) and Tyras (Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi), bringing vitis vinifera cuttings. Wine becomes currency—amphorae found across the Black Sea trace Ukrainian wine to Athens and Byzantium. Indigenous varieties likely domesticated from wild vines (Vitis sylvestris) during this period. The "Bosporan Kingdom" exports wine to the Roman Empire.

988 AD

Baptism of Kyiv

Prince Volodymyr the Great adopts Christianity; wine becomes sacramental. Monasteries (Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra, etc.) preserve viticulture through Mongol invasions and Polish-Lithuanian rule. Indigenous varieties like Telti-Kuruk (meaning "white dog" in Turkic) documented in Bessarabia. Crimean Tatars develop dessert wine traditions. The steppes remain nomadic—wine concentrated in the south and west.

1894

The Golden Age

Prince Lev Golitsyn establishes Novyi Svet (Crimea) sparkling wine using Champagne method. Count Mikhail Vorontsov plants Massandra vineyards. Ukrainian nobility (Trubetskoy, Yusupov) create estates rivaling European chateaux. Phylloxera arrives but is contained by sandy soils. The "Tavrida" region (Crimea) produces 40% of Russian Empire's fine wine. Odesa becomes wine trading port.

1920-1991

Soviet Industrialization

Collectivization destroys private vineyards; "Gigant" state farms plant high-yield hybrids (not vinifera). Focus shifts to sweet fortified wines ("Kagor," "Madera") and industrial juice. Indigenous varieties grubbed up in favor of Cabernet, Merlot, and Alicante Bouschet (for color). Massandra and Inkerman factories prioritize quantity. Natural wine traditions (qvevri, wild ferment) suppressed as "backward." Only "Doctor's Wine" (sweet dessert) widely available.

1991-2014

Independence & Confusion

Ukraine gains independence; privatization of state farms. Foreign investment (Pernod Ricard, etc.) focuses on brandy and sparkling wine. Small wineries emerge but copy international styles (oaked Cabernet, Chardonnay). Crimean wineries (Massandra, Inkerman) dominate exports. "Natural wine" concept unknown; "organic" merely marketing. Zakarpattia (Transcarpathia) maintains some pre-Soviet traditions due to Hungarian influence.

2014-Present

Revolution, War & Renaissance

2014: Russian annexation of Crimea (60% of Ukraine's wine industry lost overnight). Wineries in free Ukraine pivot to quality. Young winemakers study in Georgia (qvevri), Italy, and France. The "natural wine" movement explodes—partly economic (can't afford new oak/filtration), partly philosophical (return to roots). 2022: Full-scale invasion. Beykush Winery shelled; Shabo occupied; vineyards become minefields. Yet production continues—wine as resistance. Export markets open in solidarity. "Ukrainian natural wine" becomes symbol of cultural survival.

"When the Russians shelled our winery, they hit the new barrels. But the qvevri—buried in the earth for three years—survived. That is the lesson: natural wine, rooted in our land, endures when the modern world burns." — Vladimir Gritsay, Beykush Winery

Bessarabia to Zakarpattia

Black Sea breezes and Carpathian heights

🌊 Odesa Oblast (Bessarabia)

Southwestern Ukraine, bordering Romania and Moldova (historical Bessarabia). Limestone cliffs, black earth (chernozem), and Danube delta influence. "Telti-Kuruk" homeland—indigenous white variety thick-skinned for humidity. Natural winemakers: Gritsay (Beykush, near Mykolaiv), Saffron (Olena Kulinichenko), Frumushika-Nova (Bulgarian community). Climate is maritime-influenced (Black Sea), protecting from extreme frost. Shell rock soils (coquina) give salinity. Historical "Shabo" region (partially occupied) was center of Swiss-German colonist wine culture. Qvevri buried in sandy soils.

⛰️ Zakarpattia (Transcarpathia)

Westernmost Ukraine, Carpathian Mountains, borders Hungary, Romania, Poland. Highest elevation vineyards (300-700m). Volcanic soils (andesite, basalt) in some areas; clay-loam in valleys. "Soviet Champagne" produced here historically, but also indigenous traditions. Natural winemakers: Shcherbak (Serhiy), Chizay (Dmytro Sydorenko). Cold winters (continental climate) require burying vines or extreme hardiness. Hungarian influence (Tokaj-style wines possible). Rkatsiteli and Saperavi thrive. "Beregovo" (Berehove) is wine capital.

🍇 Kherson & Crimea

Currently occupied by Russian forces. Historically crucial: Kherson steppes (Dnieper delta) for Cabernet and Merlot; Crimea (southern coast) for dessert wines. "Kokur" (white) and "Saperavi" (red) Crimean varieties. Massandra, Inkerman, Novyi Svet wineries—now under Russian control. Many winemakers evacuated; some stayed. This guide focuses on free Ukrainian territories, but acknowledges these regions' historical significance. Pre-2014, Crimea produced 60% of Ukrainian wine.

🌿 Mykolaiv & Dnipropetrovsk

Central-southern Ukraine, steppe zones. Beykush Winery (Vladimir Gritsay) located here—sandy soils near the Berezan estuary, wind from Black Sea. High risk during war (frontline area). Experimental region for "extreme" viticulture—winemakers work under artillery fire. Limestone subsoils. New plantings of Telti-Kuruk and Saperavi. Represents the "eastern frontier" of natural wine—resilience terroir.

🌸 Vinnytsia & Podolia

Central Ukraine, "Podolian Upland." Limestone caves ( used for aging). Historical center of sparkling wine (Soviet era). Emerging natural scene: smaller scale, often garage wineries. Climate is continental, challenging for organic farming (spring frosts). Strong agricultural tradition—farmers transitioning to natural wine. Less developed than Odesa/Zakarpattia but growing rapidly.

🏔️ Carpathian Highlands

Mountain valleys of Lviv, Ivano-Frankivsk, and Zakarpattia oblasts. Experimental zone—frost-resistant hybrids and some vinifera. Very small scale (garagiste). "Hutsul" ethnic minority traditions. Cold climate focuses on high-acid whites and light reds. Some qvevri experiments. Represents the "wild" edge of Ukrainian wine—unpredictable, rustic, but fascinating.

Regional Natural Wine Character

Region	Climate	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Odesa (Bessarabia)	Maritime, moderate	Limestone, shell rock	Saline, mineral, amber
Zakarpattia	Continental, alpine	Volcanic, clay	High acid, smoky, precise
Mykolaiv	Steppe, windy	Sand, limestone	Resilient, salty, wild
Vinnytsia	Continental	Chernozem, limestone	Emerging, experimental
Crimea	Subtropical (occupied)	Crimean shale	Historical, currently inaccessible

The Featured Producers

Vignerons of resilience

Bessarabia & Odesa – The Indigenous Guardians

Vladimir Gritsay

Beykush Winery, Mykolaiv Oblast

The godfather of Ukrainian natural wine. Former marine biologist who planted vineyards in 2009 on sandy bluffs above the Black Sea (Beykush = "place of winds"). Focuses on Telti-Kuruk (indigenous white) and Saperavi in qvevri (Georgian clay vessels buried underground). "Telti-Kuruk Amber" is the flagship—6 months skin contact, wild ferment, zero sulfur. The winery was shelled by Russian artillery in 2022; Gritsay continued vinifying in the cellar while the war raged. Also makes "Survival" series—wine as resistance. Extremely limited production (1,000 bottles), allocated internationally to supporters.

Qvevri Frontline Telti-Kuruk Zero Sulfur

Olena & Serhiy Kulinichenko

Saffron Winery, Odesa Oblast

Young couple (Olena is winemaker, Serhiy viticulturist) who abandoned corporate careers. "Saffron" refers to the spice traded through Odesa's port. Work with refugee winemakers from occupied Kherson and Crimea—providing equipment and shelter. Focus on Odesa terroir: Telti-Kuruk, Sukholimansky (white), and Cabernet Sauvignon (old Soviet vines converted to organic). "Saffron Amber" is skin-contact Telti-Kuruk; "Saffron Red" is zero-addition Saperavi. Also make pet-nats. Part of the "Odesa Wine Community"—cooperative ethos.

Social Project Refugee Support Odesa Organic

Artem Kostenko

Kostenko Winery, Bolhrad, Odesa Oblast

Bulgarian-Ukrainian winemaker in historic Bessarabia (founded by Bulgarian immigrants). Reviving "Kessler" and other local clones. Works with old vines (30+ years) planted during Soviet era but converted to organic farming. "Bolhrad Amber" (Rkatsiteli) and "Telti-Kuruk Pet-Nat." Uses local oak (Quercus robur) from Danube forests rather than imported barrels. The winery survived Russian occupation (briefly) in 2022. Focuses on "Bessarabian identity"—neither Russian nor Romanian, but uniquely Ukrainian.

Bulgarian Heritage Old Vines Local Oak Bessarabia

Zakarpattia – The Carpathian Mystics

Serhiy Shcherbak

Shcherbak Winery, Berehove, Zakarpattia

The "shaman" of Ukrainian wine. Former Soviet military officer turned natural wine mystic. Works exclusively with Zakarpattia's volcanic soils (andesite). "Rkatsiteli Qvevri" is legendary—amber wine with 12 months skin contact, bottled with zero sulfur, wax-sealed. Also "Saperavi" (deep, dark, with volcanic minerality) and "Tsitronyi" (lemony indigenous variety). Uses horological aging—burying qvevri in forest clearings. Very small production, cult following in Kyiv and Lviv. Reclusive; visits by appointment only.

Volcanic Qvevri Mystic Cult

Dmytro Sydorenko

Chizay Winery, Zakarpattia

Larger, established winery (founded 1990s) but with serious natural wine line. "Chizay Natural" series includes "Rkatsiteli Orange" and "Saperavi Pet-Nat." Dmytro experiments with "qvevri" and "amphora" lines alongside conventional wines. The estate has 200+ hectares but dedicates 5 hectares to "zero intervention" experiments. Located near the Hungarian border; influenced by Tokaj traditions but distinctly Ukrainian. Also produces "Saffron Liqueur" (nod to local spice trade). More accessible than Shcherbak but equally committed to terroir expression.

Established Experimental Scale Zakarpattia

Robert and Olga Koptur

Karpatskyi Polonyny, Zakarpattia Highlands

High-altitude winemaking (600m+) in the Carpathians. "Polonyny" refers to alpine meadows. Focus on frost-resistant varieties and "mountain wine"—light, acidic, low alcohol. "Hutsul White" (field blend) and "Mountain Pet-Nat." Work with local Hutsul minority community. Extremely difficult conditions—bears eat grapes, winters bury vines under snow. Represents the "wild" side of Ukrainian wine—unpolished but authentic. No electricity in the vineyard; horse-plowed.

High Altitude Hutsul Mountain Wild

The New Generation – Kyiv & Lviv

Andriy Klympush

Garage Wine, Lviv (Vinnytsia fruit)

Urban winemaker in Lviv (western Ukraine, far from frontlines). Sources organic grapes from Vinnytsia and Zakarpattia. "Garage" literally—vinifies in rented space in Lviv's industrial zone. "Kokur" (white) and "Saperavi" (red) with zero additions. Also experiments with Ukrainian honey ("Medovukha") mixed with grape must. Part of Lviv's hipster natural wine scene. Wines served in "Khlebar" and other Lviv natural wine bars. Affordable, approachable, "glou-glou" style.

Urban Garagiste Lviv Accessible

Yuriy Kachur

Kachur Winery, Kyiv Oblast

Makes wine near Kyiv, 30km from the capital. Survived the 2022 Kyiv offensive with vines intact. Focus on "Kyiv Terroir"—proving quality wine possible near the capital. "Kyiv Amber" (Rkatsiteli) and "Kyiv Red" (Saperavi). Uses local clay vessels (not Georgian qvevri, but Ukrainian tradition). Part of "Kyiv Wine" collective—group of small producers sharing equipment. Often vinifies in bomb shelters during air raids. The ultimate "urban terroir" project.

Kyiv Urban Terroir Survivor Clay Vessels

Frumushika-Nova

Bolhrad Raion, Odesa Oblast

Bulgarian-Ukrainian community winery (ethnic Bulgarian village). Traditional methods passed down from 19th-century settlers. "Orange Wine" (Rkatsiteli) fermented in open-top vats with wild yeast. Also "Saperavi" and "Muscat." Not fully "natural" (some sulfur) but "natural-leaning" and culturally significant. Represents the multicultural fabric of Bessarabia—Bulgarian, Ukrainian, Gagauz, and Romanian influences. Tourism-focused with traditional cuisine pairings.

Bulgarian Heritage Multicultural Bessarabia

"We don't have the luxury of worrying about Brettanomyces or volatile acidity right now. We worry about whether the vineyard will be mined, whether the power will stay on, whether we can get bottles shipped. Every bottle of natural wine from Ukraine is a miracle." — Olena Kulinichenko, Saffron Winery

The Grapes of Ukraine

Indigenous Telti-Kuruk and Georgian imports

Indigenous White • The Ancient One

Telti-Kuruk

Ukraine's signature indigenous white grape, grown in Bessarabia for millennia. Name means "white dog's tail" in Turkic (describing the vine's appearance). Thick-skinned, resistant to humidity and mildew, perfect for organic farming. Pinkish-gray skin allows for rosé or light orange wines. Natural winemakers use extended skin contact (3-6 months) creating "amber" wines with notes of apricot, sea salt, walnut, and dried herbs. Low alcohol (11-12%), high acid, saline minerality from limestone soils. Virtually unknown outside Ukraine until 2022; now exported as "liquid resilience."

Style: High acid, saline, amber, textured
Natural Wine Role: Qvevri amber, pet-nat
Top Producers: Beykush, Saffron, Kostenko
Regions: Odesa, Mykolaiv
Notable: Nearly extinct, saved by natural movement

Georgian Import • The Amber King

Rkatsiteli

Georgian variety brought to Ukraine in 1950s during Soviet "international" planting programs. Found perfect home in Zakarpattia's volcanic soils. Most planted white variety in Ukraine (ironically, not indigenous). Natural winemakers use traditional Georgian methods—qvevri buried underground, 6+ months skin contact, wild ferment. Creates deep amber/orange wine with high tannin, notes of orange peel, apricot, walnuts, and honey. Can age 10+ years in proper cellar conditions. The "bridge" between Georgian and Ukrainian natural wine culture—shared techniques, shared history.

Style: Amber, tannic, high acid, oxidative
Natural Wine Role: Qvevri, long maceration
Top Producers: Shcherbak, Chizay, Gritsay
Regions: Zakarpattia, Odesa
Notable: Georgian roots, Ukrainian soul

Georgian Import • The Dark Giant

Saperavi

Georgian red variety ("dye" in Georgian, referring to red flesh). Cold-hardy, disease-resistant, perfect for Ukrainian winters. Makes deep, dark, inky wines—"black wine." Natural winemakers use whole-cluster fermentation, carbonic maceration, or traditional qvevri. Flavors of black plum, blackberry, black pepper, and smoke. In Zakarpattia's volcanic soils, takes on graphite and mineral notes. Can be light (Beaujolais-style) or profound (Barolo-style) depending on treatment. Increasingly popular as "Ukrainian answer to Shiraz."

Style: Dark, inky, high acid, spicy
Natural Wine Role: Whole cluster, carbonic, qvevri
Top Producers: Beykush, Shcherbak, Chizay
Regions: All southern regions
Notable: "Teinturier" (red flesh/juice)

More Ukrainian Varieties

From indigenous rarities to Soviet hybrids

Kokur (Sary Pandas): Crimean indigenous white (now rare due to occupation). Light, floral, similar to Muscat but less aromatic. Some plantings remain in Odesa.

Tsitronyi: "Lemon" variety from Zakarpattia—high acid, citrus notes, rare. Shcherbak makes a cult version.

Kobernyi: Indigenous red from Odesa, nearly extinct. Dark color, rustic tannins. Beykush attempting revival.

Cabernet Sauvignon: Most planted "international" variety (Soviet legacy). Natural winemakers use old vines (30+ years), whole cluster, concrete—creating lighter, herbaceous styles unlike Napa.

Aligoté: Planted in Zakarpattia by Hungarian settlers. Natural versions are Chablis-like—high acid, mineral, apple notes.

Sukholimansky: Soviet white hybrid (Telti-Kuruk x Riesling). Some natural winemakers experimenting with organic versions—can be interesting if yields controlled.

Food Pairing & Ukrainian Cuisine

Borscht, salo, and Black Sea fish

For Amber Telti-Kuruk

Orange wine meets Ukrainian soul

Borscht: Beet soup (hot or cold) with sour cream
Salo: Cured pork fat with garlic and black bread
Pickled vegetables: Tomatoes, cucumbers, watermelon
Black Sea fish: Grilled goby or mackerel
Varenyky: Dumplings with potato or sauerkraut

For Saperavi

Dark reds meet hearty fare

Holubtsi: Stuffed cabbage rolls with meat
Grilled pork: Shashlik (skewers) with adjika
Blood sausage: With buckwheat and onions
Beef stew: With prunes ( Zakarpattia style)
Aged cheese: Bryndza or local hard cheeses

For Pet-Nat & Light Whites

Bubbles meet summer gardens

Deryuny: Potato pancakes with sour cream
Okroshka: Cold kvass soup with vegetables
Sprat sandwiches: On black bread with butter
Green borscht: With sorrel and egg
Fresh cheese: Syr with herbs

For Oxidative/Rustic Styles

Shcherbak's wines meet tradition

Mushroom dishes: Pickled or stewed forest mushrooms
Kasha: Buckwheat with caramelized onions
Smoked fish: Omul or herring from Zakarpattia
Fermented cabbage: Kashа with kapusta
Honey cake: Medivnyk with walnuts

Visiting Natural Ukraine

From Odesa cellars to Carpathian slopes

🌊 Odesa & Bessarabia

Fly to Odesa (international airport). Beykush Winery (near Mykolaiv—check security situation; currently near frontline, virtual tastings available). Saffron (Odesa Oblast, safer area). Frumushika-Nova (Bolhrad, Bulgarian village—tourism infrastructure). Odesa city: "Wine Bar 1853" (natural wine focus), catacombs (largest in world, wine stored here). Shabo (partially occupied—check status). Best visited in September-October (harvest). Avoid summer (too hot) and winter (cold).

⛰️ Zakarpattia (Transcarpathia)

Fly to Uzhhorod or train from Lviv (5 hours). Berehove (wine capital)—Shcherbak (appointment only, mystic experience), Chizay (estate visits). Thermal baths: Kosyno (wine + spa culture). Carpathian villages: Hutsul culture, mountain hiking. Safer than southern regions (far from frontlines). Lviv: "Khlebar" and "Wine Bar" serve Ukrainian natural wine. Best in late September (grape harvest festivals).

🌿 Kyiv & The North

Fly to Kyiv (Borispyl or Zhuliany). Kachur Winery (30km from city, check security). City wine bars: "The Wine List," "Bar Bare," "Win Bar"—all serve Ukrainian natural wine. Podil district: Hipster area with natural wine shops. Chernihiv/Sumy: Too dangerous currently (near Russian border). Kyiv is safe (air raid shelters available). Visit St. Sophia Cathedral then drink amber wine—cultural immersion.

Ukrainian Natural Wine Culture & Travel Tips

Safety, solidarity, and the new normal

Safety: Check current travel advisories. Odesa and Zakarpattia are generally safe; Crimea and Donbas are occupied/war zones. Air raid sirens common—wineries have bomb shelters.

Solidarity Tastings: Many international wine bars (London, Berlin, Warsaw, New York) host "Drink for Ukraine" events featuring Beykush and Saffron. Buying Ukrainian wine directly supports the resistance economy.

Currency: Hryvnia (UAH). Cards accepted in cities; cash needed for rural wineries. Tipping 10% standard.

Language: Ukrainian (not Russian) preferred. Winemakers often speak English, Hungarian (Zakarpattia), or Romanian (Bessarabia).

Transport: Trains (Ukrzaliznytsia) are safe and efficient (Kyiv-Odesa, Kyiv-Lviv). Car rental possible but check insurance regarding war risks.

Etiquette: Toasting is serious business. "Budmo!" (Cheers) requires eye contact. Never refuse a toast—it's cultural. Natural wine often served in tumblers, not Riedel.

Export: You can bring 2-4 bottles per person in luggage. Beykush and Saffron ship internationally (check websites).

10-Day Natural Wine Itinerary (Current Conditions)

Day 1-2 - Lviv: Arrive Lviv (safe, far from front). Khlebar (natural wine bar). Old Town exploration. Overnight Lviv.

Day 3 - Zakarpattia: Train/car to Uzhhorod. Chizay winery visit. Thermal baths. Overnight Berehove.

Day 4 - Shcherbak: Shcherbak Winery (appointment—mystic qvevri experience). Hutsul village visit. Overnight Berehove.

Day 5 - Return Lviv: Drive/train to Lviv. Wine shopping. Overnight Lviv.

Day 6 - Fly to Odesa: Fly to Odesa (check flight availability). City center—Potemkin Steps, Opera House. Wine Bar 1853. Overnight Odesa.

Day 7 - Bessarabia: Drive to Bolhrad (check security). Frumushika-Nova (Bulgarian culture). Overnight Odesa.

Day 8 - Saffron: Visit Saffron Winery (Odesa Oblast). Meet refugee winemakers. Overnight Odesa.

Day 9 - Catacombs: Odesa Catacombs (wine storage history). Last wine purchases. Overnight Odesa.

Day 10 - Departure: Fly Odesa-international or return Kyiv for departure.

Note: Beykush (Mykolaiv) currently too dangerous for visits—support via online purchases.