USA Natural Wine Guide: New Wave Pioneers & Coast-to-Coast Revolution | California, Oregon, New York & Vermont

New Wave Pioneers & Coast-to-Coast Revolution

USA

From California's urban wineries to Vermont's snow-covered vineyards, discover how American natural winemakers are redefining the landscape with Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and cold-hardy hybrids—embracing diverse terroirs from coast to coast

Zinfandel Chenin Blanc Orange Wine Pét-Nat Hybrids Coast to Coast

10,000+ Wineries Nationwide

250 AVAs

50 States Producing Wine

4M Acres Under Vine

The American Natural Wine Revolution

From California urban wineries to Vermont mountain vineyards

The United States natural wine scene is a vibrant, coast-to-coast movement that challenges the notion of what American wine can be. Unlike Europe's tradition-bound regions, the US natural wine community thrives on experimentation, diversity, and a rejection of the industrial wine complex. From urban wineries in Berkeley to biodynamic vineyards on Vermont's Mount Hunger, American natural winemakers are creating a new lexicon of wine.

This guide focuses on the pioneers of US natural wine—producers who span the continent's diverse climates and soils. In California, Martha Stoumen crafts "Post Flirtation" wines that have become icons of the movement, while Donkey & Goat (Berkeley's first urban natural winery) has been blazing trails since 2004. Frey Vineyards (America's first organic winery, 1980) proves that large-scale natural wine is possible. Margins Wine in Santa Cruz works with underrepresented grapes like Assyrtiko and Counoise from organically farmed vineyards.

On the East Coast, La Garagista in Vermont—called by Eric Asimov "perhaps the most creative wine project in the US"—works with cold-hardy hybrids at the edge of viticultural possibility. Wild Arc Farm in New York's Finger Lakes specializes in skin-contact and carbonic maceration from organic grapes. From Oregon's Willamette Valley to the Santa Cruz Mountains, these winemakers share a commitment to organic farming, native fermentation, and honest expression of place.

Key Facts

Location: North America, diverse climates from 30-50°N
History: 400+ years (Spanish missions), natural wine since 1980s
Key Regions: California, Oregon, New York, Vermont
Main Grapes: Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Hybrids
Method: Organic, biodynamic, minimal intervention, native yeast
Style: Experimental, diverse, rule-breaking
Notable: First certified organic winery: Frey (1980)

From Prohibition to the New Wave

400 years of American wine evolution

1565

Spanish Mission Beginnings

Spanish colonists plant the Mission grape (Pais) in Florida and New Mexico, establishing the first wine in what would become the USA. The "Mission grape" spreads through California's missions in the 1700s, becoming the foundation of American viticulture.

1920-1933

Prohibition Devastation

The 18th Amendment destroys the American wine industry. Only a few wineries survive by making sacramental wine or grape concentrate. Post-Prohibition, the industry consolidates around large California producers focusing on jug wines and spirits.

1960s-1970s

The Back-to-the-Land Movement

Mendocino County becomes a center of organic farming ideology. The Frey family begins farming organically in the late 1960s. This countercultural movement plants the seeds for what would become the natural wine revolution.

1980

First Organic Certification

Frey Vineyards becomes the first certified organic winery in the United States, also achieving Demeter biodynamic certification in 1996. They pioneer "no sulfites added" wines at scale, proving that commercial natural wine is possible.

2004-2010

Urban Natural Wine Emerges

Jared and Tracey Brandt establish Donkey & Goat in Berkeley (2004), becoming the first urban natural winery in the US. In New York, the Finger Lakes natural wine scene begins with experimental producers. The "natural wine bar" concept spreads from Brooklyn to San Francisco.

2014-Present

The Explosion

Martha Stoumen launches her eponymous label (2014), bringing international experience to California natural wine. La Garagista (Vermont) gains international recognition for alpine natural wines. The US now has natural wine producers in all 50 states, from Alaska to Florida, with thriving scenes in Los Angeles, New York, Chicago, and San Francisco.

"Natural wine in America isn't about following European rules—it's about breaking them. We're writing our own playbook, from Vermont hybrids to California chenin." — Martha Stoumen, Martha Stoumen Wines

Coast to Coast: America's Diverse Wine Landscapes

From Pacific fog to Atlantic storms, desert heat to Vermont snow

🌲 Mendocino & The North Coast

California's countercultural heartland with a history of organic farming dating to the 1960s. Diverse climates from cool Anderson Valley (Pinot Noir, Riesling) to warm Redwood Valley (Zinfandel, Carignan). Frey Vineyards and many small natural producers thrive here. Historic "old vine" Zinfandel dating to late 1800s.

🌉 Santa Cruz Mountains & Bay Area

Urban natural wine centers like Berkeley (Donkey & Goat) and Santa Cruz (Margins Wine). Marine influence from Monterey Bay creates cool, foggy conditions perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Limestone and granite soils. The "Silicon Valley" of natural wine innovation.

🏔️ Willamette Valley, Oregon

America's premier cool-climate Pinot Noir region, but increasingly important for natural wine. The Van Duzer Corridor provides cool Pacific airflow. Volcanic soils (Jory), sedimentary (Willakenzie), and loess. Johan Vineyards and others practice biodynamic farming. Extended hang time possible due to cool falls.

🍎 Finger Lakes, New York

Deep glacier-carved lakes (Seneca, Keuka, Cayuga) create "lake effect" microclimates. Slate and shale soils with excellent drainage. Extreme winter cold (hybrids necessary in some areas). Natural wine pioneers like Wild Arc Farm focus on skin-contact and carbonic maceration. America's "Riesland" now embracing natural methods.

❄️ Vermont & The Northeast

The edge of viticulture—winter temperatures hit -30°F. Only cold-hardy hybrids (Marquette, La Crescent, Frontenac) survive without winter protection. La Garagista farms mountain and valley vineyards with biodynamic methods. The "Alpine Wine" movement—wines of place, not varietal.

🌵 Sierra Foothills & Lodi
Historic Gold Rush wine country with old vine Zinfandel (some 100+ years). Sandy granitic soils at elevation. Hot days, cool nights. Margins Wine sources Chenin Blanc and rare varieties here. "Natural" farming often dry-farmed due to water scarcity.

Key Natural Wine Regions

Region	Climate	Soil	Natural Wine Character
Mendocino County	Cool to warm, marine influence	Valley loam, mountain rock	Diverse, experimental, old vine
Santa Cruz Mountains	Cool, foggy, maritime	Limestone, granite, shale	Elegant, mineral, structured
Willamette Valley	Cool, long growing season	Volcanic, sedimentary, loess	Pure, terroir-driven, ageworthy
Finger Lakes	Cool continental, lake-moderated	Shale, slate, glacial till	High acid, aromatic, fresh
Vermont	Extreme cold, short season	Clay, limestone, glacial	Experimental, hybrid-focused, alive

The Featured Producers

The pioneers defining American natural wine

California – The Golden State of Natural Wine

Martha Stoumen

Martha Stoumen Wines, Mendocino & Sonoma

The "de facto queen of California natural wine" (Tasting Table). After 8 years apprenticing in Italy, Portugal, and France (including with natural wine icons), Martha launched her label in 2014. Focuses on "Post Flirtation" wines that balance accessibility with natural methods. Works with organic vineyards, native fermentation, minimal sulfur. Famous for "Honeymoon" Italian varieties, "Post Flirtation" red blends, and seasonal offerings. Also produces piquettes and wine spritzers. Philosophy: Farming practices encourage soil health over high yields; uses natural predators instead of chemicals. The wines are hugely popular but never compromise practices to meet demand.

Queen of Cali Natural Post Flirtation Organic Piquette

Jared & Tracey Brandt

Donkey & Goat Winery, Berkeley, California

Pioneers of American natural wine since 2004 and Berkeley's first natural winery. They discovered natural wine in France (Thierry Puzelat, Domaine Le Briseau) and brought that ethos to California. Work with organic and biodynamic vineyards in Sierra Nevada, Mendocino, and Napa. Known for "The Gadabout" (co-ferment), "Lily's Pet Nat" Chardonnay, "Stone Crusher" Roussanne, and "Twinkle" Mourvèdre rosé. All wines native yeast, unfined, unfiltered, minimal sulfur. Urban winery with Berkeley tasting room. They literally wrote the playbook for urban natural winemaking in the US.

Pioneers (2004) Urban Winery Berkeley First Co-Ferments

Frey Family

Frey Vineyards, Redwood Valley, Mendocino

America's first certified organic winery (1980) and first biodynamic winery (Demeter 1996). Third-generation family operation on nearly 1,000 acres with wildlife corridors. No sulfites added, ever. No synthetic inputs, organic yeasts only. Also vegan (no animal fining) and non-GMO. Large-scale natural wine production proving that "natural" doesn't mean "tiny." Led by Paul, Johnny, Katrina, and Casey Frey. "Organic Orange Beard" and Sangiovese are benchmarks. Stewardship of land includes bears, mountain lions, and pollinator habitats.

First Organic USA No Sulfites Ever Biodynamic 3rd Generation

Megan Bell

Margins Wine, Santa Cruz, California

Independent project seeking out "marginal" California grapes and locations. Based in Santa Cruz Mountains but sources from across Central Coast. Works with underrepresented varieties: Assyrtiko (Greek grape from San Benito), Counoise (from Santa Clara), Barbara-Négrette co-ferments, Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg. All vineyards farmed organically at minimum. Philosophy: Redefining "marginal" and bringing farmers into the conversation. "Clarksburg Skin-Fermented Chenin Blanc" is a standout—textured, savory, complex. "Neutral Oak Hotel" (red-white co-ferment) and juicy Counoise. Human-scale production with huge impact.

Marginal Grapes Santa Cruz Skin Contact Assyrtiko

Gina Giugni

Lady of the Sunshine, SLO Coast, California

Second-generation biodynamic farmer who began her project in 2017. Recently acquired 29-acre Bassi Vineyard one mile from Pacific Ocean in SLO Coast AVA. All wines native yeast, no additions, unfiltered. Label artwork is hand-stitched embroidery inspired by 1950s patterns. Mother's handwriting on corks. Intentional lightweight recyclable glass, no capsules, natural cork, ingredients listed. "A love letter from the Central Coast." Focuses on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah from cool, windswept vineyards. Extremely small production with cult following.

Biodynamic Farmer SLO Coast Hand-Stitched Labels Ocean Influence

Craig, Kelly, Alex & Marian Haarmeyer

Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, Sacramento River Delta

Family operation in marginal terroir—Sacramento River Delta, effectively devoid of modern wine pedigree. Based in old California sherry producer's cellar. Specialize in Chenin Blanc from old vines, sourced from Lodi, Sierra Foothills, and Sacramento. "St. Rey Chenin Blanc En Foudre" is benchmark—textured, savory, leesy. Also Nebbiolo rosato (Bandol-style) and skin-contact Riesling. Minimal intervention, native fermentation in neutral barrels, aged on lees. Family-run with deep commitment to Chenin as California's great white hope.

Sacramento Delta Chenin Specialist Family Team Old Vines

Oregon – Willamette Valley Biodynamics

Morgan Beck

Johan Vineyards, Van Duzer Corridor, Willamette Valley

Woman-owned biodynamic estate in the Van Duzer Corridor AVA. 175-acre property with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, plus experimental varieties: Blaufränkisch, Grüner Veltliner, Melon de Bourgogne. Regenerative farming with animal husbandry (sheep, chickens) and community-supported agriculture program. All integrated farm—wine, vegetables, livestock. Wines approachable yet curious, often juicy and fun while remaining clean and focused. Morgan Beck trained in biodynamic vineyards worldwide. Certified Biodynamic® with Demeter.

Woman Owned Demeter Biodynamic 175 Acres Experimental Varieties

Moe & Flora Momtazi

Maysara Winery, McMinnville, Willamette Valley

Founded 1997 on 532 acres of former wheat farm, now Demeter-certified biodynamic. Three daughters (Hannah, Tahmiene, Omid) run operations—female-made biodynamic wines. 120,000 vines planted on Nekia, Yamhill, and Jory soils. No chemicals ever used. Focus on Pinot Noir with extremely low yields (1.75-2.25 tons/acre). Medicinal flowers and herbs made into compost teas. "From nature to nature" philosophy. Estate grown and bottled with strict biodynamic preparations.

Demeter Certified Female Made 3 Daughters Compost Teas

New York – Finger Lakes & Hudson Valley

Todd Cavallo & Crystal Springs

Wild Arc Farm, Pine Bush, Hudson Valley (Finger Lakes grapes)

Former sommelier turned natural winemaker in the Hudson Valley making wine from Finger Lakes grapes. Ten-acre biodynamic, permaculture-focused farm. Specializes in skin-contact wines, carbonic maceration, and pét-nat. "Concord Carbonic" (sparkling Concord grape), "Aurora" (sparkling Aurore-Traminette), and "Pink Luca" rosé. Certified organic Buzzard Crest Vineyard sources. Also makes ciders. Experimental, playful approach with serious farming. "Chamomile infused" wines and botanical experiments.

Skin Contact Carbonic Biodynamic Permaculture

Kim Engle

Bloomer Creek Vineyard, Finger Lakes

Natural wine pioneer in the Finger Lakes since 1999. Small production Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and blends from organically farmed vineyards in Danby and Hector. Focus on minimal intervention, native yeast, low sulfur. One of the first in the region to embrace natural winemaking seriously. "Tanzen Dame" (dancing lady) Riesling is benchmark—dry, mineral, complex. Cabernet Franc from Finger Lakes shows the potential for natural reds in cool climates.

Since 1999 Finger Lakes Pioneer Riesling Cab Franc

Vermont – Alpine Natural Wine

Deirdre Heekin & Caleb Barber

Domaine La Garagista, Barnard & West Addison, Vermont

Called by Eric Asimov (NYT) "perhaps the most creative wine project in the United States." Former restaurant owners (Osteria Pane e Salute) turned winemakers in 2010. Farm five parcels: three mountain vineyards, two valley vineyards on Mount Hunger and Lake Champlain. Work with cold-hardy hybrids (Marquette, La Crescent, Frontenac) in extreme climate (-30°F winters). Biodynamic, regenerative, permaculture farming. 35 different cuvées from 2 initial wines. "Ci Confonde" pet-nat, "Blood Root Kindle" red, "Lupo in Boca" skin-contact. CSA wine club (The Forêt Wine Guild). Essays on place and technique—each bottling tells a story.

Most Creative in US Cold Climate Biodynamic Hybrids

"I would wager Haarmeyer Cellars is producing the best chenin blanc outside of the Loire." — Saman Hosseini, Domestique (Washington D.C.)

The Grapes of Natural America

Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, Mission & Cold-Hardy Hybrids

Red Variety • California's Heritage

Zinfandel

California's signature red, brought by Gold Rush-era immigrants. Many "old vine" vineyards date to 1880s-1900s, dry-farmed and own-rooted. Natural producers treasure these historic vineyards for depth and concentration. Primitivo cousin from Italy.

Style: Bold, spicy, brambly fruit, high alcohol potential
Natural Wine Role: Old vine expressions, minimal extraction
Top Producers: Martha Stoumen, Donkey & Goat, Frey
Regions: Mendocino, Sonoma, Sierra Foothills
Notable: "Old Vine" = 50+ years, some 100+ years

White Variety • The Forgotten Star

Chenin Blanc

Once America's most planted white, now rare and treasured by natural winemakers. Thrives in California's Central Valley and Clarksburg. High acid, versatile—makes sparkling, still, skin-contact, and dessert wines. Loire Valley native.

Style: High acid, waxy, honeyed with age, versatile
Natural Wine Role: Skin-contact, pét-nat, old vine
Top Producers: Margins Wine, Haarmeyer, Donkey & Goat
Regions: Clarksburg, Sierra Foothills, Mendocino
Notable: Haarmeyer makes "best outside Loire"

Red Variety • The Original

Mission (Pais)

First grape planted in California by Spanish missionaries (1769). Also called Pais in Chile, Criolla in Argentina. Light red, high yielding, historic "vineyards" often own-rooted bushes. Natural producers reviving for light, glou-glou reds.

Style: Light, fruity, low tannin, historic
Natural Wine Role: Ancient vine revival, carbonic
Top Producers: Donkey & Goat, small producers
Regions: Sierra Foothills, Southern California
Notable: Original California wine grape

Cold-Hardy Hybrids & The New American Wine

Essential varieties for extreme US climates

Marquette: Red hybrid from Minnesota, cold-hardy to -35°F. Descended from Pinot Noir. Used by La Garagista (Vermont) and Finger Lakes producers for light, fruity reds with high acidity.

La Crescent: White hybrid with Muscat-like aromatics. Cold-hardy, disease resistant. La Garagista makes skin-contact and sparkling versions. Aromatic, floral, stone fruit character.

Frontenac (Gris/Blanc/Noir): Minnesota-developed series for extreme cold. Versatile, high acid. La Garagista uses for "Vin de Jardin" amphora wines.

Concord: Native American grape (Vitis labrusca) famous for juice and jelly. Wild Arc Farm makes natural sparkling "Concord Carbonic"—grape soda for adults, natural wine style.

Chardonnay: America's favorite white. In natural wine, often whole-cluster pressed, native yeast, minimal oak (or amphora). Santa Cruz and Sonoma Coast produce mineral-driven styles.

Assyrtiko: Greek white grape now grown in California (San Benito) by Margins Wine. Retains high acidity and saline character even in California heat.

Food Pairing & American Cuisine

Natural wine meets burgers, BBQ, and beyond

Pairings for California Zinfandel

Bold, spicy natural reds

BBQ: Smoked brisket, pulled pork
Burgers: Grass-fed beef with aged cheddar
Mexican: Carnitas tacos, mole enchiladas
Pizza: Pepperoni, sausage, wood-fired
Local match: Santa Maria-style tri-tip

Pairings for Finger Lakes Riesling

High acid, mineral whites

Seafood: Oysters, lobster rolls, fried clams
Asian: Korean fried chicken, Vietnamese pho
Spicy: Buffalo wings, Nashville hot chicken
Picnic: Fried chicken, potato salad, deviled eggs
Local match: New York cheesecake (yes, really)

American Natural Wine Traditions

Piquette, cider, and the new wave

The US natural wine scene has created its own traditions. Piquette—wine made by adding water to grape pomace and refermenting—has been revived by producers like Martha Stoumen as a low-alcohol, sustainable alternative. Pét-Nat (pétillant naturel) has exploded from obscure French tradition to American obsession, with every state producing their version. Cider is huge in Vermont and New York, with producers like La Garagista making "co-ferments" of apples and grapes. Wine spritzers—once considered passé—are now artisanal products (Martha Stoumen's "Spritz"). The natural wine bar scene (La Dive in D.C., Ruby Fruit in LA, The Four Horsemen in Brooklyn) has created a new American wine culture: casual, diverse, food-friendly, and unpretentious.

Visiting Natural USA

From Berkeley to Vermont's mountains

🌉 Berkeley & Bay Area

Visit Donkey & Goat—Berkeley's first natural winery with urban tasting room. Margins Wine (Santa Cruz) by appointment. Martha Stoumen tastings in Mendocino. Combine with San Francisco dining (State Bird Provisions, The Progress). Best time: September-October (harvest) or March-May (green hills).

🌲 Mendocino County

Visit Frey Vineyards (America's first organic winery) for tours of biodynamic farm with animals and gardens. Haarmeyer Wine Cellars in Sacramento Delta (1 hour from Napa). Combine with Anderson Valley (cool climate Pinot). Stay in Ukiah or Anderson Valley. Best time: June-September.

🗽 Finger Lakes, New York

Base in Watkins Glen or Hector. Visit Wild Arc Farm (Hudson Valley but sources from Finger Lakes), Bloomer Creek (Danby), and Standing Stone (Saperavi specialist). Combine with hiking in Watkins Glen State Park, Cornell University visits. Best time: September (harvest) or October (fall colors).

Cross-Country Natural Wine Road Trip

Day 1-2 - New York City: Arrive, explore natural wine bars (The Four Horsemen, Wildair). Dinner with Finger Lakes natural wines.

Day 3 - Finger Lakes: Drive upstate (4 hours). Visit Bloomer Creek and Standing Stone. Overnight in Hector.

Day 4 - Vermont: Drive to Vermont (5 hours). Visit La Garagista (Barnard) by appointment—possibly the most creative winery in the US. Stay in Woodstock or Burlington.

Day 5 - Fly to San Francisco: Fly to California (6 hours). Drive to Berkeley (30 min). Visit Donkey & Goat tasting room. Dinner at Chez Panisse (birthplace of California cuisine).

Day 6 - Santa Cruz: Drive to Santa Cruz (1 hour). Visit Margins Wine and explore the coastal mountains. Surf or beach time.

Day 7 - Mendocino: Drive to Ukiah (2.5 hours). Visit Frey Vineyards for biodynamic tour. Overnight in Mendocino town.

Day 8 - Anderson Valley: Explore cool-climate Pinot Noir country. Visit Roederer Estate (not natural but beautiful) and small natural producers. Return to San Francisco for departure.

USA