Veneto

From the volcanic hills of Gambellara to the limestone valleys of Valpolicella, discover Veneto's natural wine resistance—where Garganega meets skin-contact amber and ancestral method Prosecco challenges industrial tanks

Veneto Natural Wine Guide: Beyond Prosecco & Amarone | Volcanic Gambellara & Col Fondo Traditions

100k Hectares Under Vine

14 DOCs & DOCGs

2,000 Years of History

1990s Maule Revolution

Rebellion in the Land of Giants

When industrial Prosecco meets volcanic naturalism

Veneto—home to Venice, Verona, and the Dolomites—is Italy's largest wine-producing region by volume, yet its natural wine scene remains a closely guarded secret. This is the land of industrial Prosecco (600 million bottles annually), mass-market Pinot Grigio, and Amarone's concentrated power. The hills around Verona and Vicenza have been sculpted by wine commerce since the Venetian Republic, when "Retico" sweet wines were traded across the Mediterranean.

This guide explores the underground natural wine movement of Veneto—pockets of resistance where volcanic soils and ancient traditions defy industrial logic. Angiolino Maule (La Biancara, Gambellara) is the region's spiritual leader, proving since the 1990s that Garganega can make profound natural wine without sulfur. Casa Belfi (Alex della Vecchia) revives the "Col Fondo" (sur lie) tradition of Prosecco, bottle-fermenting with native yeast in opposition to the Charmat tank method. Davide Vignato farms his grandfather's volcanic terraces in Gambellara with zero chemicals. Colleoni makes natural Chiaretto (rosato) from ancient Morainic Lake terraces in Bardolino.

What distinguishes Veneto natural wine is volcanic terroir—the Gambellara and Soave hills are ancient volcanic outcrops with basalt and tufa soils that give mineral salinity to whites. It is also defined by the Col Fondo tradition—the original Prosecco method, where wine re-ferments in bottle with sediment (fondo), creating cloudy, savory, food-friendly sparklers that predate industrial "Extra Dry" by centuries. In a region dominated by cooperatives and bulk wine, these producers are revolutionaries reclaiming authenticity.

Key Facts

Location: Northeast Italy, Adriatic to Alps
History: Venetian trade empire, Roman "Retico"
Key Regions: Gambellara, Valpolicella, Soave, Prosecco hills, Bardolino
Main Grapes: Garganega, Glera, Corvina, Tai, Vespaiola
Method: Volcanic farming, Col Fondo, appassimento, zero sulfur
Style: Mineral whites, light reds, cloudy sparklers
Notable: Largest wine region vs smallest natural scene

From Retico to Col Fondo

Venetian trade, volcanic soils, and industrialization

7th Century BC

The Retico Origins

The Raeti people (from whom "Retico" wine takes its name) cultivate vines in the Veronese hills. Roman authors (Pliny, Columella) describe "Rhaetic wine" as sweet and prized, shipped in amphorae across the empire. The volcanic hills of Gambellara and Soave are already recognized for distinct terroir. The "Recioto" drying method (appassimento) develops—grains left to dry on bamboo racks ("arele") to concentrate sugars.

1200-1500s

The Venetian Empire

The Republic of Venice controls trade between East and West. Verona and Vicenza become wealthy wine centers. The "Garganega" grape dominates the hinterland. Prosecco (then called "Ribolla" or "Pucino") is mentioned by English traveler Fynes Moryson in 1593. The "Col Fondo" method emerges—bottle fermentation creates cloudy, dry sparkling wines in the Treviso hills. Venetian nobility build villas in the Veneto countryside (Palladio's villas), surrounded by vineyards.

1860s-1960s

Phylloxera & Cooperative Rise

Phylloxera devastates the region (1880s). Replanting on American rootstock favors high-yield varieties. The "Strada del Vino" wine routes develop around Soave and Valpolicella. Post-WWII, cooperatives dominate—Cantina di Soave, Cantina di Gambellara—standardizing quality but emphasizing volume. The "Prosecco" name becomes associated with the Charmat/Martinotti method (tank fermentation) invented by Federico Martinotti in 1895 but industrialized in the 1960s for mass production.

1970s-1980s

Amarone & Industrial Boom

Amarone della Valpolicella (dry Recioto) achieves DOC status (1968) and becomes an international phenomenon. Wineries like Bertani, Masi, and Allegrini industrialize appassimento with climate-controlled drying rooms. Soave becomes a bulk white wine brand. The "Prosecco" boom begins with the creation of the IGT (1990s) and later DOCG (2009). Natural wine is nonexistent—chemical agriculture is standard.

1990s

The Maule Revolution

Angiolino Maule converts his family estate (La Biancara, founded 1900) to organic farming in 1988, then zero sulfur by 1997. He revives traditional "Garganega" training (pergola veronese) and native yeast fermentation in cement. Initially ridiculed by the cooperative-dominated Gambellara establishment, he inspires a generation. Other pioneers: Fongoli (actually Umbria, nearby influence), and small Valpolicella producers rejecting industrial appassimento.

2010-Present

Col Fondo Renaissance & Natural Growth

Alex della Vecchia (Casa Belfi) and others revive "Col Fondo" Prosecco as an alternative to industrial tank method. The "Vinnatur" association (founded by Maule) organizes tastings bringing natural producers from across Italy to Gambellara. Young winemakers (Vignato, etc.) return to abandoned volcanic terraces. Valpolicella sees a "natural" turn with producers focusing on "Appassimento Naturale" (no temperature control, wild yeast) and lighter "Valpolicella" over extracted Amarone. The region remains 95% industrial, but the 5% artisanal gains international cult status.

"They told me I was crazy to make wine without sulfur in Gambellara. They said Garganega would oxidize, turn brown, spoil. But I knew my grandfather made wine this way before chemicals existed. The wine doesn't need protection if the fruit is healthy and the cellar is clean." — Angiolino Maule, La Biancara

Gambellara, Soave & Valpolicella

Volcanic basalt, limestone, and morainic terroirs

🌋 Gambellara

The volcanic heart of Veneto natural wine. East of Verona, these hills are ancient volcanic outcrops (basalt, tufa, lava flows) distinct from the sedimentary plains below. Garganega thrives here, producing wines with distinct smoky, saline, mineral character compared to limestone Soave. Pergola Veronese training (high canopy) is traditional. Angiolino Maule and Davide Vignato farm these steep volcanic slopes organically. The soil is rich in iron and magnesium, giving wines a savory, almost bloody edge. This is the epicenter of Veneto zero-sulfur wine.

⛰️ Soave

Volcanic and limestone hills surrounding the medieval town of Soave. Classico zone (Monte Foscarino, Monte Tondo) has basaltic soils similar to Gambellara but with more limestone interbedding. Historically dominated by the Soave cooperative (millions of liters). Natural producers are rare but emerging: Coffele (organic, low sulfur), Gini (traditional but clean). The "Recioto di Soave" (sweet) and "Soave Classico" (dry) are the main styles. Natural winemakers focus on old-vine Garganega (40+ years) in volcanic subzones like Fittà and Castelcerino.

🍇 Valpolicella

The "valley of many cellars" north of Verona. Calcareous-marine limestone with dolomitic influences, plus volcanic pockets in Valpantena. The terroir is divided: Classico (original hills) vs. extended DOC (plains). Natural wine is challenging here due to the appassimento process (drying grapes) which requires perfect ventilation to avoid rot—difficult without chemicals. However, producers like Monte dei Ragni (very traditional, low sulfur) and Recchia (organic) are changing this. Focus is shifting from heavy Amarone to lighter, fresher Valpolicella Superiore and Ripasso (natural yeast, whole cluster).

🥂 Prosecco Hills (Conegliano-Valdobbiadene)

Steep hills (hogbacks) of marl and sandstone between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene (Treviso province). UNESCO World Heritage site. The soil is "Caranto"—a compact clay-sandstone mixture. Glera (formerly Prosecco) is the grape. Industrial Prosecco uses the Charmat (tank) method, but the Col Fondo (ancestral/bottle method) originates here—bottling with residual sugar to ferment in glass, creating sediment ("fondo") and dry, savory flavors. Casa Belfi and Bele Casel champion this natural method. Very steep, difficult farming (heroic viticulture).

🌊 Bardolino & Lake Garda

Morainic hills from the Ice Age, surrounding Lake Garda. Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara (light red blend similar to Valpolicella but fresher). The lake moderates climate, creating breezy conditions. "Chiaretto" is the local rosé—traditionally light, bitter, saline. Natural producers like Colleoni and Gorgo focus on organic farming and native yeast to express the morainic terroir (glacial deposits, stones). The "Garda Bresciano" influence overlaps here.

🌿 Breganze

Pre-alpine foothills northwest of Vicenza. Vespaiola (white, named for wasps/vespe attracted to sweet grapes) and Tai (aka Tocai, Friulano) are specialties. Volcanic and alluvial soils. Zago (organic, natural-leaning) is the key producer. "Torcolato" is the passito (dried grape) wine made from Vespaiola. Less known internationally but important for Veneto's white wine diversity. The "Piave" river valley influences the terroir.

Regional Natural Wine Character

Zone	Soil	Grapes	Natural Wine Character
Gambellara	Volcanic basalt, tufa	Garganega, Tai	Smoky, saline, volcanic
Soave	Volcanic + limestone	Garganega	Mineral, almond, textured
Valpolicella	Calcareous, dolomite	Corvina, Rondinella	Earthy, cherry, appassimento
Prosecco Hills	Marl, sandstone (Caranto)	Glera	Col Fondo: savory, cloudy, dry
Bardolino	Morainic, glacial	Corvina, Molinara	Light, bitter, lake-breeze

The Featured Producers

Volcanic farmers and Col Fondo rebels

Gambellara – The Volcanic Vanguard

Angiolino Maule

La Biancara, Gambellara

The undisputed godfather of Veneto natural wine. Founded 1988, organic since day one, zero sulfur since 1997. Angiolino farms 9 hectares of volcanic slopes with extreme steepness (hand-harvesting only). "Sassaia" is the flagship Garganega—skin contact (amber), wild yeast, aged in cement, bottled with sediment. Also "Masieri" (light red from Tai/Garganega blend) and "Recioto Natural" (sweet wine made without sulfur, incredibly rare). He founded "Vinnatur" association, organizing tastings that brought natural wine culture to Italy. His winery is a pilgrimage site. The wines are challenging, oxidative, deeply volcanic—tasting of smoke and stones.

Zero Sulfur Pioneer Volcanic Vinnatur Founder Garganega

Davide Vignato

Vignato Davide, Gambellara

Angiolino's protégé and successor-in-spirit. Took over his grandfather's 6 hectares in 2005, converted to organic, zero sulfur. Younger generation (born 1980), more precise and "clean" than Maule's rustic style, but equally committed. "Monovitigno Garganega" is the focus—different parcels showing volcanic variations. "Dama" is the skin-contact amber wine (3 weeks maceration). Also makes "Tai" (Friulano) and "Recioto" passito. The cellar is spotless, the farming meticulous. Represents the "polished" side of Gambellara natural wine—proving volcanic minerality can be elegant.

Next Generation Clean Natural Gambellara Precision

Fasoli Gino

San Zeno di Cazzano (Verona)

Historic family estate (1920s) between Soave and Valpolicella, organic since 1984 (very early), now biodynamic. Not strictly "natural" (minimal sulfur used) but spiritually aligned. "Garganega delle Tende" (from old pergola vines) and "Valpolicella" made with native yeast and long maceration. The "Recioto" and "Amarone" are made with traditional appassimento but without industrial temperature control. A bridge between traditional and natural—showing that Veneto classics can be made honestly.

Biodynamic Heritage Amarone Bridge

Prosecco & The North – Col Fondo Revolution

Alex della Vecchia

Casa Belfi, San Pietro di Feletto (Treviso)

Already mentioned in Japan/Piedmont guides for context, but Casa Belfi is based in the Prosecco hills. Alex (with brother Riccardo) revolutionized Prosecco by rejecting the industrial tank method for Col Fondo—bottle-fermented, sur lie, zero sulfur, dry (not sweet). "Prosecco Col Fondo" is the flagship—cloudy, savory, almond notes, completely dry. Also makes "Raboso" (indigenous red) and "Verduzzo." The cellar uses concrete eggs and old wood. Organic since 2004. Proved that Prosecco could be natural wine, not just industrial product.

Col Fondo Prosecco Rebel Zero Sulfur Sur Lie

Bele Casel

Asolo (Treviso)

Small estate (5 hectares) in the Asolo hills (Colli Asolani), organic, dedicated to Col Fondo Prosecco. "Prosecco Asolo Col Fondo" is bottled with native yeast, no dosage, no filtration. Also makes "Asolo Prosecco Superiore" (still) with extended lees contact. The wines are mineral, savory, completely different from commercial Prosecco. Focus on old Glera vines (60+ years) and steep "heroic" hillside vineyards.

Asolo Col Fondo Old Vines Heroic

Loris Follador

Follador, Valdobbiadene

Historic family (founded 1769) now converting to organic and experimenting with Col Fondo and low-sulfur "natural" Prosecco. "Xero" (zero) is the natural line—zero added sulfur, wild ferment, bottle-conditioned. While the main production remains traditional, this side project shows even established Valdobbiadene families recognize the natural wine shift. The terroir is steep Cartizze hills—top quality potential.

Historic Cartizze Transition Valdobbiadene

Valpolicella & Bardolino – The Red Frontier

Monte dei Ragni

Fumane, Valpolicella

Tiny estate (3 hectares) in the classic zone, farming organically with extreme low intervention. "Valpolicella Classico" is the focus—light, peppery, whole-cluster fermented, aged in old oak, minimal sulfur. The "Amarone" is made naturally—appassimento in traditional drying lofts (not climate-controlled), wild yeast, no temperature control during fermentation. Very limited production. Represents the "traditionalist natural" approach to Valpolicella—proving Amarone can be made without industrial crutches.

Valpolicella Natural Amarone Whole Cluster Rare

Giovanni Battista & Alessandra

Colleoni, Bardolino

Organic farming since 2000, natural vinification (native yeast, no filtration, minimal sulfur). Focus on Chiaretto (rosato)—the traditional "lake wine" of Garda. "Chiaretto Natural" is dry, bitter, saline, with the cherry skin character of Corvina. Also "Bardolino Classico" light red (chillable) and "Garganega" white. The estate is on morainic hills with lake views. Represents the "lake breeze" terroir—fresh, acidic, food-friendly wines.

Chiaretto Lake Garda Rosato Bardolino

Zago

Breganze (Vicenza)

Organic estate specializing in indigenous whites: Vespaiola (for Torcolato passito) and Tai (Tocai). "Vespaiola" dry is rare and delicious—floral, honeyed, with good acid. The "Torcolato" is made with natural drying (no botrytis) and minimal sulfur. Also makes "Tai" (Friulano) with skin contact (orange wine). Represents the "pre-alpine" white wine tradition of Veneto—different from the volcanic Gambellara style, more floral and honeyed.

Vespaiola Tai Breganze Torcolato

"Col Fondo is not a trend. It is the original Prosecco—how our grandfathers made it before the tanks arrived. The cloudiness is not a fault; it is the proof of life." — Alex della Vecchia, Casa Belfi

The Grapes of Veneto

From volcanic Garganega to appassimento Corvina

Indigenous White • The Volcanic

Garganega

The queen of Veneto whites, thriving on volcanic basalt in Gambellara and limestone in Soave. Thick-skinned, late-ripening, capable of high acidity and significant extract. Natural winemakers use extended skin contact (amber/orange wine) to extract the smoky, saline volcanic character. Flavors of almond, lemon peel, white peach, and crushed stones. Can age 10+ years in natural versions (Maule's Sassaia). The base for "Recioto di Soave" (sweet) when dried. Often trained on Pergola Veronese (high canopy).

Style: Mineral, almond, high acid, smoky
Natural Wine Role: Orange/amber wine, long maceration
Top Producers: Maule, Vignato, Fasoli
Regions: Gambellara, Soave
Notable: Related to Grecanico (Sicily)

Indigenous White • The Sparkler

Glera

Formerly called "Prosecco" (now the place name). Neutral, high-yielding grape that takes on terroir expression mainly through method. Industrial Prosecco is tank-fermented (Charmat), sweet, and simple. Natural Col Fondo (bottle-fermented) Glera is savory, cloudy, dry, with notes of bread crust, green apple, and almond. Native yeast fermentation essential—selected yeasts kill the character. Best on steep hillsides (Conegliano-Valdobbiadene) with marl soils. Must be consumed within 2-3 years (not for aging).

Style: Neutral grape, method defines wine
Natural Wine Role: Col Fondo (bottle ferment), zero dosage
Top Producers: Casa Belfi, Bele Casel, Follador
Regions: Treviso (Conegliano-Valdobbiadene)
Notable: Name changed from Prosecco in 2009

Indigenous Red • The Light One

Corvina

The primary grape of Valpolicella and Bardolino. Thick skin, high anthocyanins (color), but light body and distinctive sour-cherry acidity. Natural winemakers use whole-cluster fermentation to enhance the peppery, herbal character (similar to whole-cluster Pinot Noir). Traditional appassimento (drying) concentrates sugars for Amarone, but natural producers focus on fresh "Valpolicella Classico" with carbonic or semi-carbonic methods. Flavors of sour cherry, violet, green pepper, and almond.

Style: Sour cherry, acidic, light body, herbal
Natural Wine Role: Whole cluster, carbonic, light reds
Top Producers: Monte dei Ragni, Colleoni, Fasoli
Regions: Valpolicella, Bardolino
Notable: Blended with Rondinella and Molinara

More Veneto Varieties

The supporting cast of indigenous grapes

Tai (Tocai/Friulano): Herbal, grassy white with almond notes. Grown in Breganze and Gambellara. Natural versions have strong personality—almost Sauvignon-like but with more body.

Vespaiola: Aromatic white from Breganze. Named for wasps (vespe) attracted to sweet grapes. Makes "Torcolato" passito and interesting dry wines with honeyed notes.

Rondinella: Secondary Valpolicella grape. Adds color and herbal notes. Usually blended, rarely solo.

Molinara: Light, acidic, pale red from Bardolino/Valpolicella. Almost white wine in color. Adds freshness to blends.

Durella: High-acid white from Monti Lessini (Verona). Used for sparkling wine (_method classico). Rare but interesting for natural pet-nats.

Croatina: Dark, tannic red used in blends for color. Similar to Bonarda.

Food Pairing & Venetian Cuisine

Baccalà, polenta, and risotto

For Col Fondo Prosecco

Cloudy sparklers meet cicchetti

Cicchetti: Venetian tapas (baccalà mantecato, sarde in saor)
Fried seafood: Moeche (soft-shell crabs), calamari
Prosciutto San Daniele: Or Montasio cheese
Bigoli in salsa: Pasta with anchovy-onion sauce
Street food: Tramezzini sandwiches

For Amber Garganega

Skin-contact meets mountain fare

Baccalà: Salt cod (vicentina style with polenta)
Grilled sardines: With polenta
Porchetta: Herb-stuffed pork
Aged Asiago: Mountain cheese
Sopressa: Veneto salami with garlic

For Valpolicella & Light Reds

Sour cherry meets pasta

Pasta e fagioli: Pasta and bean soup
Risi e bisi: Rice and peas (risotto)
Polenta: With rabbit or mushrooms
Grilled polenta: With lard and rosemary
Pandoro: Sweet bread (with Recioto)

For Chiaretto (Rosato)

Lake wine meets fish

Tinca: Tench fish from Lake Garda
Trout: Alpine streams
Olives: Lake Garda olives (Laghi)
Tortellini: Di Valeggio (thin pasta with meat)
Vegetable frittata: With mountain herbs

Veneto Culinary Traditions

From Venice to the Dolomites

Cicchetti Culture: Venice's tapas tradition—small bites eaten standing at bacari (wine bars) with an ombra (glass of wine). Natural Col Fondo is perfect here.

Polenta: The staple of the Veneto diet—white cornmeal, served soft or grilled. Accompanies everything from cod to wild boar.

Risotto: Veneto is Italy's rice capital (Vialone Nano from Verona). Risi e bisi, risotto with Amarone, or simple butter and Parmigiano.

Baccalà: Salt cod (stoccafisso) prepared mantecato (creamed with oil) or alla vicentina (with onions, anchovies, milk).

Asiago & Montasio: Mountain cheeses from the pre-Alps. Aged versions with Col Fondo or Garganega.

Tiramisu: Born in Treviso (the "pick me up"). Mascarpone, coffee, Savoiardi biscuits. Pair with Recioto or sweet passito.

Visiting Natural Veneto

From Venice to the volcanic hills

🌋 Gambellara & Soave

Base in Verona or Vicenza. La Biancara (Angiolino Maule—appointment essential, pilgrimage site). Davide Vignato (nearby). Soave town (medieval castle, touristy but pretty). Coffele (Soave, organic). Combine with Verona (Roman arena, Juliet's balcony) and Bassano del Grappa (grappa distilleries). Best in spring (April-May) or autumn (September-October, harvest). Avoid August (hot, closed).

🥂 Prosecco Hills

Base in Conegliano (wine school town) or Valdobbiadene. Casa Belfi (San Pietro di Feletto). Bele Casel (Asolo). Col Vetoraz (for contrast, traditional). Drive the Strada del Prosecco (wine route). Very steep, scenic hills (UNESCO). Combine with Treviso (charming walled city, canals). Visit Osteria Senza Oste (honor-system wine bar in the hills). Best in autumn (vendemmia) or spring.

🍇 Valpolicella & Lake Garda

Base in Verona. Valpolicella (Fumane, Sant'Ambrogio—Monte dei Ragni). Bardolino (Lake Garda, Colleoni). Lake Garda (boat trips, Malcesine castle). Amarone producers (for contrast—Quintarelli, traditional). Combine with Venice (1 hour by train). Best in autumn (grape drying season for Amarone) or summer (lake beaches).

Veneto Natural Wine Travel Tips

Navigating the industrial wine landscape

Vinnatur Tasting: Angiolino Maule organizes "Vinnatur" events in Gambellara (usually November and spring). The best way to taste 100+ Italian natural producers in one place. Check vinnatur.it.

Appointments: Essential for small producers (Maule, Vignato, Monte dei Ragni). Email in advance (Italian or English).

Industrial Contrast: Visit a large Prosecco producer (like Bisol or Villa Sandi) for contrast, then taste Col Fondo to understand the difference.

Transport: Car essential for Gambellara and Valpolicella. Prosecco hills require driving (winding roads). Trains connect Verona-Venice-Treviso well.

Language: Venetian dialect is strong here. English spoken in tourist areas (Venice, Verona) less so in rural Gambellara.

Timing: Harvest (vendemmia) is mid-September for whites, late September/October for reds (Valpolicella). Call ahead—wineries may be too busy.

7-Day Natural Wine Itinerary

Day 1 - Venice: Arrive Venice. Cicchetti tour (natural wine at Vino Vero or Al Mercà). Overnight Venice.

Day 2 - Treviso & Prosecco: Train to Treviso. Pick up car. Drive to Casa Belfi (tasting). Bele Casel. Overnight Conegliano or Valdobbiadene.

Day 3 - Prosecco Hills: Drive Strada del Prosecco. Osteria Senza Oste. Return car to Treviso. Train to Verona. Overnight Verona.

Day 4 - Gambellara: Pick up car. La Biancara (Maule—appointment). Davide Vignato (tasting). Soave town (castle). Overnight Verona or Soave.

Day 5 - Valpolicella: Monte dei Ragni (Fumane). Fasoli (if appointment). Amarone contrast tasting (Quintarelli or similar). Overnight Verona.

Day 6 - Lake Garda: Drive to Bardolino. Colleoni (Chiaretto). Lake Garda (Malcesine or boat trip). Overnight Garda or Verona.

Day 7 - Departure: Return car Verona or Venice airport. Departure.

Alternative: Add 2 days for Dolomites (Belluno wine country) or Vicenza (Palladian villas).