The Future Is Now

The König family's connection to Kittenberg began with Friedrich "Fritz" König — Herbert and Karl-Heinz's grandfather — who was no ordinary farmer. [^177^] An orchard farmer, economics councilor, and expert in terroir around the world, Fritz authored two renowned books on soil composition and the influence of microclimates on soil pH values before implementing his experiences on the steep, schist-dominant hills of Kittenberg. [^177^] He planted orchards of heirloom fruit trees — bird cherries, quince, pears — between 50 and 70 years ago, creating a legacy of biodiversity that his grandsons would later reclaim. [^180^]

The family's path was not straightforward. After their father's untimely death in a tractor accident on the steep slopes, the vineyards were leased out for years. [^180^] Herbert worked for eight years at the storied Erich & Walter Polz winery in South Styria, gaining experience in every aspect of winery operation and building a network of industry relationships. [^180^] In 2016, he and friends Markus Neuhold and Jakob Schönberger took over Laufke — one of the oldest traditional restaurants in Graz — where Herbert curated the biggest wine list in town and learned what he truly wanted to produce. [^180^] It was here that he first showcased his family's fruit juices, learning about juice pairings and building the foundation for Wachstum König's dual identity as wine and juice producers.

In 2019, Herbert and Karl-Heinz took back their family vineyards and orchards from lease. [^180^] They started with only a few plots and now work with approximately 4 hectares of vines on slopes around their winery, plus 3 hectares of old orchards. [^180^] The conversion to biodynamic farming was immediate and comprehensive — herbal and animal preparations applied according to seasons and moon phases, minimal copper and sulfur (approximately 2kg/ha/year), and a "less is more" approach that honours their grandfather's scientific legacy while pushing into radical natural winemaking. [^177^]

The Sausal region is one of the most challenging wine-growing areas in Austria. [^179^] Annual rainfall of 800–1000mm (sometimes 1500mm in wet years), steep slopes that necessitate hand work, and hail three times a year make it, as Herbert says, "a terrible place to make wine" — but one that rewards those who persevere with extraordinary terroir expression. [^179^] The Kittenberg hill is known for its schist soils, with pockets of limestone, blue schist, and red schist creating a patchwork of geological diversity within a compact area. [^180^] This is not the easy viticulture of the plains; it is mountain farming at its most demanding and most rewarding.

In the cellar, Herbert and Karl-Heinz practice a nature-first, "less is more" approach that is as radical as their farming. [^177^] [^178^] All wines — following multiple days of whole-cluster maceration and pressing with a small, horizontal press — are spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on full lees in old oak foudres and barrels (plus a few amphorae from Claus Preisinger) for two to three years. [^177^] Bottling is done by gravity. No additives or sulfur are ever used. [^177^] This is not low-intervention winemaking; it is zero-intervention winemaking at its most disciplined and precise.

The extended ageing is crucial to the Wachstum König style. [^177^] [^178^] Where many natural winemakers release wines quickly to capitalise on freshness, the König brothers believe that time — like their grandfather's soil science — is an essential ingredient. Two to three years on full lees in large old vessels allows the wines to develop texture, complexity, and a stability that short-ageing cannot achieve. The wines are not rushed; they are allowed to become themselves.

The portfolio is organised around two key concepts that reflect the vineyard sites and the brothers' philosophy: [^177^] [^179^]

"Wiese" (Meadow): The lighter, fresher expressions. Wines from meadow-adjacent plots that capture the herbaceous, floral character of the Sausal valley. [^177^] These are the entry points — but "entry" is a relative term, as even the Wiese wines show the depth and complexity that extended ageing imparts.

"Sonne" (Sun): The more powerful, sun-exposed expressions. Wines from the warmest, most sheltered plots that achieve greater ripeness and concentration. [^182^] These are the structured, age-worthy wines that demand patience and reward contemplation.

The brothers focus exclusively on white grapes — Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc (Weißburgunder), Morillon (Chardonnay), and Muskateller — though Herbert hints at reds to come from an old Blauer Wildbacher and Schwarzriesling vineyard in Flamberg. [^180^] "Never say never," he laughs. Their approach to winemaking is unlike any other in Styria: they focus on tannins and texture, creating wines of extraordinary depth and grip that challenge the region's reputation for simple, fruity Sauvignon Blanc. [^184^]

Herbert's experience at Laufke restaurant taught him the importance of pairing and context. "I learned a lot from the fruit for my vinifications!" he says. "As farmers, we are able to help our orchards and vineyards to achieve a certain level. It also showed me how to manage the problems with the changing climate and that unique zero-zero products are made outside, not inside." [^180^] This holistic vision — wine, juice, orchard, vineyard, restaurant, community — is what makes Wachstum König more than a winery. It is a living ecosystem.