Charles
Dufour
The Solera Rebel
Third generation in the Dufour family, Charles returned from Beaune and travels abroad to split his father's estate with sister Julie—six hectares each. While his father Yves was cautious about change, his mother Françoise championed organics, having farmed biodynamically since 2006. Charles received organic certification in 2010 and began his experiments [^171^][^173^].
"Making it officially organic wasn't necessarily the first step—my parents had already started to convert," he explains. But Charles wanted something simpler, more experimental. He began rethinking the entire structure, realizing the only way to explore his own ideas was to go it alone. The cards were in his hands [^171^].
Bar Bubbles Philosophy
Literally "Bar Bubbles," Bulles de Comptoir was created in 2010 as a wine to drink at the bar with friends. Charles sold his first bottles to Aux Crieurs du Vin in Troyes—a natural wine pioneer. From there, it exploded: Noma in Copenhagen, Den Vandrette, Verre Volé in Paris, Bar Brutal in Barcelona. The house pour at the world's best restaurant [^171^][^173^].
Each numbered cuvée (#8, #11, #12, #13...) represents a new artistic collaboration and evolving solera. The perpetual blend began in 2010—reserve wines from every vintage, creating a "living wine" that maintains a Charles Dufour signature while evolving personality each year. Artist-designed labels interpret each iteration [^171^][^178^].
Organic/Biodynamic
Bulles de Comptoir #1
Reserve Perpetuelle
Global Noma Pour
The Solera Method
80% aged in old oak barrels, 20% reserve wine from 2010-2019. Each year, young wines are added to barrels and drawn as needed. Current vintage components (maybe rich Chardonnay, maybe structured Pinot Noir) are added bit by bit. The result: a signature that evolves, becoming a "new version of its past self" with entirely new personality each release [^170^][^171^].
Minimal Intervention
Native yeast fermentation, malolactic favored for taste and texture. Sulfites kept to bare minimum—just a tiny amount at pressing to ensure healthy yeasts carry fermentation. Under 3 grams dosage. No industrial yeasts, herbicide-free farming, hand harvesting. "As close as you can get to calling any bottle of Champagne a natural wine" [^172^][^180^].
Artistic Evolution
Each Bulles de Comptoir number represents a unique artistic interpretation: #8 'Stilleben' (still life), #11 'Terrine et Jardin,' #12 'Cuisine du Dimanche,' #13 'Cuisine du Dimanche.' Different artists, different concepts, same base philosophy. Labels capture the essence of each iteration—the wine evolves, so does its visual identity [^171^][^178^].
"Every year I keep reserves. That is very important when it comes to understanding my cuvées. Then, I taste the current vintage—maybe that year will be rich, or maybe it won't. Maybe it's the Chardonnay that really shines. It depends. I explore everything."— Charles Dufour on Exploration
The Numbered Series
Each number an evolution, each label an artwork, each bottle a piece of the perpetual solera started in 2010 [^171^][^172^].
#11 Terrine et Jardin
60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Blanc. 80% from 2020 vintage, 20% reserve from 2010-2019. Tension-filled with light spice, apple, and mineral aromas. Plush palate with complex baking spices and honey—"complex being the key word here." Under 3g dosage [^168^][^170^].
#8 Stilleben
'Still Life'—except nature is very much alive and kicking. Cubist-like nature morte on the label. The cuvée that maintains Charles Dufour signature while evolving personality. Playful, juicy, mildly oxidative, notes of spices and earth, fresh but ripe, gentle mousse [^176^][^186^].
#13 Cuisine du Dimanche
Sunday Cooking—comfort, conviviality, the long lunch. Aromas marked by dried fruits. Beautiful roundness in the mouth, generous, marked by elegance. The latest iteration of the perpetual solera, showing how the blend deepens with each passing year. Limited quantities [^187^][^189^].
Bistrøtage B.10
Made for his mother Françoise from her Pinot Noir vines planted in the 70s and 80s in Vallée de l'Arce. She wanted "vinous with less bubbles"—extended aging as still wine and on lees. Based on 2010 vintage, disgorged 2019. A unique cuvée released per vintage, weather permitting [^167^].
Vin de Comptoir
The still wine counterpart to Bulles de Comptoir. A solera blend from 2010 through 2018, with Jurassic soul (without the flor) and Champagne poise. "Thrilling"—Charles smiles. Another Comptoir Chapter about to unfurl. The natural evolution of the perpetual blend concept into still wine form [^171^].