Bulles de Comptoir
is a renowned Champagne cuvée produced by Charles Dufour, a winemaker from Landreville in the Côte des Bar region of Champagne, France. Known for its natural wine approach, this Champagne is celebrated among enthusiasts for its unique, expressive character and minimal-intervention style. Each year, Dufour releases a new edition of Bulles de Comptoir, often with a distinct name or theme, reflecting his innovative and evolving winemaking philosophy.Key Details About Bulles de Comptoir
Producer: Charles Dufour, a vigneron born in 1982, who took over his mother’s (Françoise Martinot) family estate in 2006 and converted the vineyards to organic farming, a rarity in Champagne due to the region’s challenging climate (rain and cold).
Region: Côte des Bar, Aube, Champagne, France.
Grape Varieties: Typically a blend of Pinot Noir (dominant), Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc, all sourced from Dufour’s estate in the Arce Valley. For example, the #9 edition is 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 10% Pinot Blanc.
Style: Extra Brut, with low dosage (e.g., 2–3 g/l of residual sugar), emphasizing purity and terroir. The wine is described as vineux (vinous), mineral, and voluminous, balancing freshness and depth.
Production Method:
Uses the traditional Champenoise method (second fermentation in the bottle).
Incorporates a blend of a base vintage (e.g., 80% from 2021 for #12) with reserve wines from a solera system started in 2010, spanning multiple vintages (e.g., 2010–2020 for #12). Some editions, like #12, also include wines from an oenothèque reserve (1982–2009) from Dufour’s father, encapsulating the estate’s history.
Fermentation often occurs spontaneously in barrels (e.g., 75% in wood, 25% in tanks for #9), with malolactic fermentation and minimal or no sulfur addition.
Aging on lees (sur lattes) varies, with disgorgement dates like January 2024 for #12 (tirage October 2022).
Tasting Profile:
#9 Tradition: Silky, juicy, with notes of ripe core and stone fruits, barberries, herbs, salt lemons, and ginger. It benefits from decanting to open up its flavors.
#11: Features a vinous nose, freshness, and depth, with a higher proportion of Pinot Noir giving a distinctive robe. Suitable for both casual and meditative settings.
#12 "Caché dans l’Évidence": Elegant and straight, with a classic yet vibrant profile, less oxidative than Dufour’s Bistrøtage cuvées. A blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 10% Pinot Blanc, with a dosage of 2 g/l.
Philosophy: Dufour’s approach is rooted in natural wine principles, aiming for elegance and balance rather than overly oxidative or eccentric profiles. Each edition varies slightly, offering a fresh experience while maintaining a signature style.