13 Rows at 600 Meters
In Jenins, Graubünden, Christof Ruof makes Pinot Noir like no one else in the region — fresh, crisp, fruity, with zero sulfur in some cuvées. First in his family to make wine, he learned from his father-in-law Peter Hermann and set out to dust off the valley's overripe, over-oaked image. Just half an acre, but what an acre it is.
First in the Family
The name Ruof has echoed through Graubünden for generations, but Christof is the first to make wine. He learned the trade from his father-in-law Peter Hermann, a winemaker in Fläsch who showed him the ropes and shared his cellar. In 2012, Christof decided to take control of his family's tiny vineyard — a mere 13 rows at a site called "Im Silser" on the outskirts of Jenins [^162^].
Though the Ruof family had owned the land for years, the vines were tended by others. Christof's vision was clear from the start: to create Pinot Noir the way he likes it — fresh, crisp, and fruity, a deliberate contrast to the overripe, over-oaked signature that dominates the valley. It was a risky proposition in a region known for power rather than elegance, but Christof stuck to his convictions.
"A style that contrasts the prevailing overripe, over-oaked signature so often found in the valley."
— Newcomer Wines
Im Silser Terroir
The vineyard sits at roughly 600 meters altitude on clay soils — a more rustic terroir characteristic of this part of the Herrschaft. It's southwest-facing, on the banks of the Rhine where vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see across the four villages of Bündner Herrschaft: Fläsch, Jenins, Maienfeld, and Malans.
Despite its small size, this half-acre holds decades of history. The original Mariafeld vines were planted in the early 1980s — over 40 years old now, producing concentrated, complex fruit. About 30 years later, Christof added clone "1055," a popular selection in Graubünden known for smaller berries and denser clusters. The combination of old-vine depth and newer vine vitality gives Christof options in the cellar.
The original planting — over 40 years old. These vines produce grapes with depth and complexity, forming the backbone of Christof's structured cuvées. Deep roots in the clay soils extract minerality and elegance.
Added later to complement the Mariafeld. Smaller berries, denser clusters, and vibrant acidity. This clone brings freshness and precision to the blend, perfect for Christof's lighter, no-sulfur cuvées.
Fresh, Crisp, Fruity
Christof's winemaking is defined by what it rejects: the heavy hand of oak and the pursuit of overripeness that characterizes much of the region. Instead, he seeks balance — wines that show the alpine freshness of Graubünden rather than trying to mimic the warmth of the Rhône.
He vinifies at his father-in-law Peter Hermann's cellar in Fläsch, where the "most important ingredients are made if possible themselves" — a philosophy of minimal intervention. Christof's wines ferment with native yeasts, undergo gentle extraction, and see restrained use of sulfur (with one cuvée seeing none at all).
The Other Face of Grisons Pinot
While many Bündner Herrschaft Pinots chase power and oak, Christof shows another side: vibrant red fruit, alpine freshness, and a smoky, mineral finish that speaks of 600-meter altitude and clay soils. His wines prove that Swiss Pinot can be elegant rather than ponderous.
The proof is in the reception: "One of the best Swiss Pinot Noir, long lasting, with a nice smoky finish. Very well done!" writes a Vivino user of the 2017 vintage [^159^]. Nearly ten years after his debut, Christof has resolutely succeeded in his challenge to rejuvenate and modernize the image of his region [^162^].
From One to Four
Christof started simply — one Pinot Noir cuvée, made by destemming part of the grapes and aging for almost two years. But the generous 2018 vintage gave him an opportunity to expand. He launched the cuvée "Mariafeld" — 100% Mariafeld clone, whole-bunch vinified, shorter aging, and crucially, made without any addition of sulfur. It arrives on the market a year earlier than its sibling, capturing the fresh, minty character of young vine Pinot [^162^].
Not stopping there, Christof looked to the saignée — the pink juice that runs off when concentrating red wine. Most winemakers in the region neglect this byproduct, but Christof saw potential. From the 2018 saignée came two new wines: "Weissherbst," a rosé of bleeding that many local producers ignore but which Ruof decided to enhance — "the result is splendid!" [^162^]. And from the same saignée, concentrated and bottled with its fermenting sugars, came "Ruof Pet Nat" — a natural sparkling wine described as "concentrated strawberry juice with milky and refreshing notes."
"With the 2018 vintage, so generous in grapes, Christof launches into the elaboration of novelties."
— On the 2018 expansion
The Ruof Wines
All wines come from the half-acre Im Silser vineyard at 600m altitude on clay soils. Vinified at Peter Hermann's cellar in Fläsch. Native yeast fermentation, gentle extraction, minimal or zero sulfur. From 40+ year old Mariafeld vines and newer 1055 clone plantings.