Ugo LestelleNatural Wine at All Costs
From a restored sheepfold at 600 meters, carbonic maceration transforms ancient Cinsault and Grenache into pure, luminous expressions of Languedoc's highest vineyards.
From wandering the south to settling at 600 meters—how a 25-year-old restored a sheepfold into Saint-Chinian's highest natural wine sanctuary.
At just 25 years old, Ugo Lestelle was already a wanderer of southern France's vineyards. After exploring various wine regions, he made a decisive choice in 2015: he would settle permanently in Saint-Chinian, specifically in the village of Poggioferro, restoring an old sheepfold at 550-600 meters above sea level [^60^][^70^].
What captivated him was the unique soil composition—clayey-limestone with a very high percentage of silica—combined with the altitude that provides freshness rare in the Languedoc. He started with just 2 hectares of property; today he farms 7 hectares, but the philosophy has remained uncompromising [^60^][^86^].
Ugo works with native varieties of the region—Grenache, Carignan, Aramon, Syrah, Terret, and Cinsault—but treats them with a distinctly Beaujolais sensibility: whole bunch carbonic maceration in cement tanks, followed by aging in small barrels (Burgundy barriques), with the type of wood changing for each wine to match its personality [^60^][^90^].
"À la beaujolaise"—carbonic maceration, cement tanks, and the refusal to compromise on natural wine integrity.
Ugo's approach is defined by carbonic maceration—the technique made famous by Beaujolais—applied to classic Languedoc varieties. Whole bunches are loaded into cement tanks where intracellular fermentation begins without crushing the grapes. This extracts vibrant fruit while minimizing harsh tannins, creating wines of immediate pleasure but surprising depth [^87^][^90^].
He farms organically, refusing synthetic chemicals in the vineyard. In the cellar, nothing is added except minimal sulfur dioxide at bottling for some cuvées (around 3g/hL), while others are bottled zero/zero—no added sulfur, no filtration, no fining [^88^][^103^].
The cement tanks serve a crucial purpose: they provide thermal inertia and neutrality, allowing the grapes to express themselves without the influence of oak during fermentation. After the initial carbonic phase, wines are transferred to Burgundy barriques for aging—5 to 12 months depending on the cuvée—with each wine receiving different wood treatment to best interpret its terroir [^60^][^101^].
At All Costs
Poggioferro—Saint-Chinian's highest vineyards. Silica-rich clay-limestone at 600 meters where ancient Cinsault defies the Mediterranean heat.
Altitude
The highest vineyards in the Saint-Chinian appellation, located in Poggioferro village. The elevation provides crucial temperature variation and freshness, allowing grapes to retain acidity despite the southern latitude [^70^][^86^].
Soil
Clayey-limestone soils with a very high percentage of silicon/silica and schist. This unique composition provides both the water retention of clay and the mineral brightness of silica, creating wines of electric freshness [^60^][^64^].
Vines
Old vines ranging from 20 to 80+ years, including ancient Cinsault planted in the 1940s. These deeply rooted plants withstand drought and produce low yields of concentrated fruit [^97^][^101^].
From the playful "Little Guy" to the commanding "Great Lady"—carbonic Languedoc in all its guises, aged in Burgundian barriques.
Le P'tit Bonhomme
100% Cinsault from 80-year-old vines on silica-rich schist soils. Despite the playful name ("The Little Guy"), this is serious wine: carbonic vinification in cement for 6 hours only, then gentle pressing and aging in Burgundian barriques for 5-12 months. Zero sulfur added. Bright red berries, pomegranate, and that unmistakable carbonic snap—proving Cinsault can be profound [^97^][^101^][^103^].
La Grande Dame
A blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre representing the more powerful side of Ugo's range. Aged for 8 months in old oak barrels, this is the " Grande Dame"—full-bodied, structured, with deep red fruit and the savory garrigue herbs of the Languedoc hills. The carbonic approach keeps it fresh despite the power [^92^][^95^][^100^].
"L"
100% old vine Grenache, hand-harvested and fermented using carbonic maceration in cement tanks for 2 weeks. Aged in Burgundy barrique for 6-10 months. This is what Languedoc Grenache should taste like—voluptuous fruit, spice, and the limestone freshness of those 600-meter vineyards. Bottled unfined, unfiltered [^87^][^90^][^93^].
"XI" & "XII"
Ugo uses Roman numerals for specific vintage expressions, often featuring Carignan with Grenache ("C" cuvée). These wines represent the vintage variation and Ugo's experimental side—different parcels, different wood treatments, all bound by the carbonic philosophy. The "C" is Carignan and Grenache, vinified with the same non-interventionist approach [^72^][^83^].
Point
A blend of Cinsault and Carignan representing Ugo's "point" of view on Languedoc blending. The combination brings together the aromatic brightness of Cinsault with the structure and wildness of old vine Carignan. Fermented using carbonic maceration, aged in barrels, bottled with minimal sulfur [^63^][^85^].
"B"
100% Vermentino from 20-year-old vines on clayey-limestone soil. Direct whole bunch pressing with daily batonnage during fermentation in cement. Aged 7 months in small exhausted (neutral) wood barrels. Only 3g/hL of sulfur dioxide added at bottling. Saline, citrus, and white flowers—the Mediterranean in a glass [^71^][^73^].
The Carbonic Vanguard
Ugo Lestelle represents the new face of Languedoc natural wine—technically precise yet radically non-interventionist. By applying carbonic maceration (traditionally associated with Beaujolais Gamay) to classic Languedoc varieties like Grenache and Carignan, he has created a unique signature: wines that are immediately drinkable yet capable of aging, fruit-forward yet mineral and complex [^60^][^64^].
His choice to work at Saint-Chinian's highest altitude (600m) with ancient vines (80+ years) while maintaining strict organic farming and natural cellar practices demonstrates that the Languedoc's future lies not in industrial volume, but in careful, site-specific natural winemaking. At only 30-something, he has already established an international reputation—a true "young gun" to watch [^98^].
- Pioneer of carbonic maceration in Saint-Chinian
- Highest altitude vineyards in the appellation (600m)
- Preservation of ancient Cinsault (80+ years)
- Zero/zero sulfur on select cuvées
- Organic farming on silica-rich limestone
- International reputation at under 35 years old