The Donkey Killer of Rivesaltes
In Rivesaltes, Roussillon, where the railway once ran through the vineyards, Laurent Roger and Melissa Ingrand craft lithe, bright natural wines from family vines planted by Laurent's grandfather. A former sommelier at Le Verre Volé in Paris, Laurent returned home in 2017 to transform hot-climate grapes into pure, juicy expressions—no sulfites, no heavy extraction, just Mediterranean sunshine in a bottle.
From Le Verre Volé to Grandfather's Vines
Laurent Roger grew up in the family vineyards of Rivesaltes, where his grandfather had planted vines decades ago. But rather than staying in the countryside, he left to pursue wine in the city—eventually becoming sommelier at Le Verre Volé, the iconic Paris natural wine bar. There, he immersed himself in the world of living wines, serving bottles from the very kind of producers he would later become.
In 2017, Laurent returned to Roussillon with his partner Melissa Ingrand, taking over his grandfather's vineyards. They started with 2 hectares and began converting to organic viticulture immediately. Their mission: to prove that natural wine could thrive in the hot Roussillon climate without becoming heavy or over-extracted. The results are wines of surprising freshness—lithe, bright, and eminently drinkable despite the Mediterranean heat.
"Making natural wine in a hot region can be challenging—grapes can quickly become blistered and alcoholic, and there's a risk that fermentations will run hot and wild, ending in flawed, volatile wine."
— Rachel Signer, LA MESCITA
Rivesaltes & The Railway
The estate now spans 7 hectares (as of 2025), with 6 hectares in full production, situated in Rivesaltes near Perpignan in the Pyrénées-Orientales region. The vineyards lie in the Catalan region of Roussillon, an area bathed by the Mediterranean and within sight of the Pyrenees. The climate is hot and dry, with clay soils that retain moisture for the roots.
Laurent and Melissa work with seven grape varieties: Macabeu (the Spanish-influenced white of the region), Muscat à Petits Grains, Muscat d'Alexandrie, Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, Merlot (planted by Laurent's father on heavy clay soils), and Syrah. The oldest vines date back to 1949—ancient Grenache that produces the cuvée Otium. Everything is farmed organically, with meticulous pruning and hand-tending throughout the year.
Rivesaltes, near Perpignan in Roussillon. Mediterranean climate with Pyrenean influence. Heavy clay soils for Merlot, schist and sandy soils for other varieties. Hot, dry summers tempered by maritime breezes.
Seven varieties spanning French and Spanish traditions: Macabeu, Muscat Petit Grain, Muscat d'Alexandrie, Grenache (Noir and Blanc), Merlot (30-year-old vines from Laurent's father), and Syrah.
Short Maceration, No Sulfites
Mataburro's winemaking is defined by restraint and speed. Grapes undergo short maceration times of just 4-5 days—enough to extract color and fruit without pulling heavy tannins or alcohol. Everything is hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines are bottled unfiltered with no sulfites added, yet they remain stable and fresh—a testament to careful vineyard work and cellar hygiene.
The house style is "vin fin et pur"—fine and pure wines that transmit passion, emotion, and energy. Despite the hot climate, Laurent achieves remarkably low alcohol levels (around 12-13%) and bright acidity through early picking and gentle extraction. The result is a range of wines that defy Roussillon stereotypes: not heavy, not fortified, not overripe, but juicy, floral, and gulpable—wines that "people reach for every day on the Mediterranean."
The Apprenticeship
Laurent learned his craft through apprenticeship with one of Southern France's most beloved figures in wine: the late Alain Castex of Le Casot de Mailloles. Castex was a legend of Banyuls natural wine, known for his extreme schist terraces and pre-industrial methods. This mentorship shaped Mataburro's philosophy: respect the land, work organically, and let the wine express its place without heavy-handed cellar techniques.
The Tragedy of 1910
"Mataburro" translates literally to "Donkey Killer"—a macabre but memorable name drawn from local history. When the railway first opened through the vineyards in 1910, tragedy struck on the very first day: a train killed two donkeys on the tracks. The railway had changed the landscape forever, bringing modernity to ancient vineyards at the cost of traditional animal power.
The name serves as a reminder of the region's agricultural past, when donkeys and mules were essential for working steep vineyard terraces. Today, Mataburro honors that tradition by maintaining manual labor in the vineyards—though the donkeys are thankfully safer now. The railway still runs through the landscape, a historic scar that gives the estate its unforgettable identity.
"Mataburro means 'donkey killer' which refers to a railway that runs through the vineyard. When it opened in 1910, a train sadly killed 2 donkeys on the first day."
— Chenin Blanc / Macabeo catalog
The Mataburro Range
All wines are organically grown, hand-harvested, short-macerated (4-5 days), fermented with indigenous yeasts, bottled unfiltered, and contain no added sulfites. The range spans bright reds, aromatic whites, and field blends, all sharing the Mataburro signature: fresh, juicy, low-intervention, and highly drinkable.