Muchada-Léclapart: Jerez's Unfortified Revolution

Muchada-Léclapart is a groundbreaking and highly influential winery located in the historic Marco de Jerez (Sherry Triangle) on the Atlantic coast of Andalusia, Spain. This visionary project is a collaboration between Alejandro Muchada, a local architect-turned-winegrower, and David Léclapart, the renowned biodynamic Champagne producer. Their partnership, forged in 2011, is dedicated to crafting unfortified, dry white wines that powerfully express the unique "albariza" (limestone) soils and the indigenous Palomino grape, moving away from the traditional fortified Sherry styles.

Their vineyards span approximately 4 hectares in the coveted "pagos" (vineyard crus) of Miraflores (Sanlúcar de Barrameda) and Abulagar (Chipiona). These plots, some with vines over 70 years old, are meticulously farmed using biodynamic principles (certified since 2022). They prioritize soil health and biodiversity, working with the specific "albariza tosca" and "lentejuela" limestone soils, which impart the signature sapidity and salinity to their wines. They manage their own plots, ensuring total control from vine to bottle.

In the cellar, Muchada-Léclapart champions a philosophy of delicate, low-intervention winemaking. Grapes are hand-harvested early in the morning to preserve freshness, then gently pressed using a Champagne press. Fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in solid steel tanks coated with ceramic paint (avoiding stainless steel to prevent ionization, in their view). The wines are aged on their lees for around nine months, with minimal movement to preserve their qualities. Crucially, they use only a minimal amount of sulfur dioxide (less than 10% of conventional levels, often just a touch at pressing), and the wines are bottled without filtering or cold stabilizing. This approach allows the subtle nuances and saline character of the albariza and Palomino grape to shine through without the masking effects of flor or fortification. Their wines are named after natural elements, reflecting their deep connection to the land.

Muchada-Léclapart's wines are celebrated for their purity, tension, elegance, and profound expression of the Jerez terroir. They offer a unique and compelling perspective on a historic region, showcasing the potential of unfortified Palomino to create world-class dry white wines.