Stéphane CyranNo Additions, No Subtractions
Between Champagne and Alsace, a forgotten AOC revived by climate change and conviction. Dense red clay, 30-year-old vines, and natural wine without compromise since the first vintage.
From the Côtes de Toul AOC—nearly extinct in 1951—to Mont-le-Vignoble: how a BTS graduate revived Lorraine's forgotten vignoble.
The Côtes de Toul AOC, established in 1998 but classified as VDQS since 1951, represents a winemaking heritage that had nearly disappeared. For decades, commercial viticulture in Lorraine primarily catered to Champagne négociants, with little attention paid to the region's potential for unique, expressive wines [^188^][^219^].
In 2016, after completing his BTS in Viticulture and Oenology in Rouffach, Stéphane Cyran began his winemaking journey in Mont-le-Vignoble, 20 km west of Nancy. He started with just 1 hectare of vines on dense red clay soils, planted "à la champenoise"—narrow and low. Today he works approximately 3 hectares of Gamay and Pinot Noir vines ranging from 10 to 30+ years old [^188^][^196^][^217^].
Official organic certification began in spring 2018. Since then, Stéphane has quietly but confidently established himself as one of less than a handful of natural vignerons in this emergent northern terroir—part of a new wave viewing Lorraine as fertile ground for innovation as temperatures rise across France [^188^][^196^][^222^].
"Sans intrant ni soustraction"—no additions, no subtractions. Whole-bunch maceration in the Côtes de Toul tradition.
Stéphane adheres to a philosophy of minimal intervention from the vineyard to the bottle. Whether working with white or red varieties, he employs whole-bunch maceration to preserve the integrity of the fruit. Additions during vinification or bottling are strictly avoided—ensuring that his wines remain as natural as possible [^193^][^188^].
The vines are worked organically with minimal treatments, and the soil is tilled gently by hand or with a horse depending on the steepness of the slope. All vineyard work respects the living ecosystem—no synthetic chemicals, no aggressive machinery, just careful attention to the dense red clay that defines the terroir [^191^][^196^].
In the cellar, vinification occurs with native yeasts only, in stainless steel or old barrels. No chaptalization, no acidification, no filtration, no fining, and no added sulfur at any point. The resulting wines are dense and substantial even in youth—you can taste the true sense of Lorraine's terroir, one that is "not too dissimilar to southern Jura or Bugey" in its cool-climate tension [^199^][^188^].
Ni Soustraction
Mont-le-Vignoble—dense red clay soils on south-east facing slopes. The Côtes de Toul: 110 hectares of revived tradition between Champagne and Alsace.
Soil
Dense red clay soils interspersed with limestone—providing both water retention and mineral structure. These soils are ploughed by hand or horse, creating wines with cocoa powder, coffee bean, and autumnal petrichor notes [^199^][^203^][^214^].
From Nancy
Located in Domgermain, 20 km west of Nancy, on south-east facing slopes. The Côtes de Toul AOC was established in 1998 and covers just 110 hectares—one of France's smallest appellations, now revived by climate change [^188^][^196^][^219^].
Training
Vines are planted "à la champenoise"—narrow and low, cordon-trained. This traditional method, shared with neighboring Champagne, creates dense planting and low yields of concentrated fruit [^188^][^217^].
From the flagship "Gonzo" to the négociant experiments of "Le Deuxième Souffle"—Gamay and Pinot Noir in their purest Lorraine expression.
Gonzo
The estate's signature wine—100% Gamay from 15-year-old vines planted on clay soil in a 0.25ha parcel near the cellar. One-third destemmed, two-thirds whole bunch. Semi-carbonic maceration for 3 weeks in steel before short aging in neutral barrel. Lithe, bright, with cocoa powder and coffee bean notes. The epitome of soil-inflected wine [^202^][^205^][^221^].
A Lurelure
"The Wanderer" or "Meandering"—100% Gamay whole-bunch fermented with 20 days maceration. Crown cap finish (sometimes). Savoury, earthy, with slight reductive notes that blow off to reveal pure clay-limestone terroir. "Straight in its boots and free in its mind." A fascinating, soil-driven expression of Lorraine Gamay [^231^][^233^][^236^].
À l'Origine
"At the Origin"—100% Pinot Noir from heavy clay soils (Acratus parcel). Made only when quantities are not sufficient to separate parcels. Two parts Pinot Noir, vinified with the same non-interventionist approach: native yeast, whole bunch, no additions. Shows the lighter, more ethereal side of Lorraine Pinot—bright red fruit, forest floor, and that distinctive northern tension [^228^][^238^].
Vin Gris de Toul
The traditional wine of the region—feather-light "grey wine" (rosé) based on Gamay and Pinot Noir. Direct press, minimal skin contact, creating a salmon-colored wine that carries the "nervous energy of the north." Layered, mineral-driven, with cold-climate acidity and bountiful fruit. The calling card of the Côtes de Toul appellation [^222^][^229^][^237^].
Pétillant Naturel
Direct-press pét-nat that exemplifies Stéphane's creative flair. Made from estate fruit with natural fermentation bottled during primary fermentation to capture bubbles. No disgorgement, no dosage, no sulfites. Fresh, energetic, and perfectly captures the cool climate of Lorraine in sparkling form [^188^][^229^].
Le Deuxième Souffle
Since 2019, Stéphane's micro-négociant project allows experimentation with cépages and terroirs not available at the domaine. Sourcing from neighboring friends in Lorraine and Alsace who work organically or biodynamically. This "second wind" provides creative freedom to explore Auxerrois, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, and other varieties while maintaining the same zero-addition philosophy [^188^][^213^][^217^].
The Northern Vanguard
Stéphane Cyran represents the emergent face of French natural wine in unexpected places—not the south, but the north; not famous terroirs, but forgotten AOCs. By proving that the Côtes de Toul, with its dense red clay and cool climate, can produce wines of "true density and substance" without any additions, he has inspired a new generation to look beyond the traditional map of French wine [^188^][^199^].
His work honors the region's history—when 50,000 hectares of vines covered Lorraine and bishops served these wines across Europe—while demonstrating that natural, zero-sulfur winemaking is not the privilege of southern warmth, but possible even in the climatic uncertainty of northern France. As temperatures rise and the Côtes de Toul gains attention, Stéphane's quiet conviction sets the standard: no additions, no subtractions, just Lorraine [^219^][^188^].
- Pioneer of natural wine in Côtes de Toul AOC
- Zero additions since first vintage (2016)
- Revival of "vin gris" tradition
- Horse and hand tillage on steep slopes
- Organic certification (2018)
- Micro-négociant innovation (Le Deuxième Souffle)
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Mesa Wine (France - Importer/Retailer, ships to select EU countries): A direct importer and retailer of natural wines that features Stéphane Cyran prominently, highlighting his location in Lorraine and his no-additions philosophy. They ship within France and to some EU destinations.
Vinnouveau.fr (France - Ships to France & potentially EU): A French online shop for natural wines that frequently carries Stéphane Cyran, including "Chasser le Brouillard" and "En Route Mauvaise Troupe." They ship within France and to many other EU countries.
Marée Haute Vins Naturels (France - Ships within EU): A prominent French online retailer dedicated to natural wines. They often feature Stéphane Cyran, including "Rien ne Presse" and "A Lurelure." They ship within France and to many other EU countries.
Gourmet Hunters (Spain - Ships within EU, including France): This Spanish online retailer lists various Stéphane Cyran wines like "A Lurelure" and "En Route Mauvaise Troupe." They indicate shipping to EU countries.
Volatil Vin (Denmark - Ships within EU): A Danish natural wine shop that carries Stéphane Cyran, including "Acratus." They ship within Denmark and to other EU countries.
Weinfurore (Germany - Ships within EU): A German online wine shop that lists Stéphane Cyran wines, including "Gonzo." They ship within Germany and other EU countries.
Grape Curate (USA - Ships to most US states): An online natural wine shop that frequently gets new allocations of Stéphane Cyran, often providing detailed notes on his unique cuvées like "Chasser Le Brouillard," "En Route Mauvaise Troupe," "Rien Ne Presse," "Sprezzatura," "A Lurelure," "Acratus," and "Gonzo." They ship within the US.
Leon & Son Wine and Spirits (USA - New York): A highly regarded natural wine shop in Brooklyn, NY. They often carry Stéphane Cyran and ship to many US states.
Beattie & Roberts (UK - Importer/Retailer): This UK-based natural wine importer and retailer carries Stéphane Cyran wines, highlighting his zero-intervention approach. They ship within the UK.