Open-Air Laboratory
In the Valdibà hamlet of Dogliani, Piemonte, Tommaso Cappa and his partner Agnese cultivate one hectare of 40-year-old Dolcetto vines near the San Fereolo chapel. No business plan, no chemicals — just a biodynamic approach where the land is treated with respect, and wines that taste like the marly soils they come from.
From Turin to the Vines
Tommaso Cappa is a young winemaker with a truly global education. After earning his degree in enology, he embarked on a journey that took him to Patagonia, Chile, and Tuscany — working harvests and learning techniques across three continents. This international experience shaped his approach, but it was the pull of home that brought him back to Piedmont.
In 2020, Tommaso and his partner Agnese Caprioli — an architect — made a decision that would change their lives. They left Turin and moved to Dogliani, transforming an ancient Dolcetto vineyard surrounding Tommaso's grandparents' house into what they call an "open-air laboratory." There was no formal business plan, no investor pitch — just a desire to valorize indigenous grapes and work sustainably with the land they had inherited.
"We cultivate vineyard, dreams, and an idea of agriculture that respects the territory."
— Tommaso and Agnese
Valdibà Hamlet
The vineyard sits in the Valdibà hamlet of Dogliani, on the right bank of the River Tanaro, less than 10 kilometers south of Barolo. At 350-400 meters elevation, with significant slopes and south-west exposure, the vines benefit from the fresh air that circulates through the valley. The soils are marly — calcareous and clayey — giving the wines their signature freshness and structure.
This is old vine country. The Dolcetto vines are 40 years old, planted by Tommaso's family generations ago. They grow near the San Fereolo chapel, a historic landmark that watches over the vineyard. The steep slopes require all work to be done by hand — there's no mechanization here, just human effort and careful attention to each vine.
Calcareous-clay soils typical of Dogliani provide the mineral backbone and freshness that distinguishes these wines. The marl gives structure without heaviness, allowing Dolcetto's fruit to shine while maintaining elegance.
The significant elevation and steep slopes create natural temperature variation and air circulation. This moderates the warmth of the Langhe, preserving acidity and creating the conditions for subtle, precise wines.
"The soils of Dogliani are calcareous and clayey, giving flavor and great freshness to the wines. The rather high altitude and the preferable south-west exposure yields subtle tannins and a warm, full-bodied fruity structure."
— On Dogliani terroir
Biodynamic Respect
Tommaso doesn't just farm organically — he embraces biodynamics as a philosophy of respect for the land. No chemical herbicides, no systemic fertilizers. All vineyard work is manual, from pruning to harvesting. It's labor-intensive and low-yielding, but the results speak for themselves: wines that taste alive, expressing the specific terroir of Valdibà.
In the cellar, the approach is equally hands-off. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts only. Tommaso uses whole-cluster fermentation (without stems) to preserve the pure fruit character of Dolcetto. The wines age in small, exhausted barrels — used wood that enhances complexity without adding overt oak flavors or overpowering the delicate fruit.
Exhausted Barrels
Tommaso ages his wines in small, used barrels that have seen multiple vintages. This isn't about wood flavor — it's about micro-oxygenation and texture. The exhausted barrels allow the wine to evolve slowly, developing complexity while maintaining the freshness and varietal character that makes Dogliani distinctive.
The production is tiny by design: roughly 1,600-1,700 bottles of Dogliani DOCG per vintage, plus around 800 bottles of Nebbiolo. This isn't a commercial operation chasing scale — it's a laboratory for sustainable innovation, a test case for what Dogliani can be when treated with patience and respect.
Research at Ceretto
While Tommaso's heart is in Valdibà, his day job keeps him connected to the broader evolution of Piedmontese wine. He works as a vineyard foreman at Ceretto — one of the Langhe's most historic and influential wineries — where he oversees biodynamic research projects. This dual life gives him a unique perspective: the rigor of working with a major producer combined with the freedom of his artisanal project.
At Ceretto, Tommaso is at the forefront of experimental viticulture, testing biodynamic practices at scale. This research informs his own work at Valdibà, creating a feedback loop between tradition and innovation, between large-scale agriculture and small-batch artistry. It's a balance that keeps him grounded in the practical realities of farming while allowing him to push boundaries.
The Valdibà Wines
All wines are made with wild yeast fermentation, whole-cluster (without stems), and aged in exhausted barrels. No chemical additions, minimal sulfur. Production is strictly limited — typically 1,600-1,700 bottles of Dogliani and ~800 bottles of Nebbiolo per vintage. These are wines for the dinner table, fresh and food-friendly, embodying the convivial spirit of the Langhe.