Tony Bornard — Pupillin | Jura, France
Biodynamic • The Red Fox

Second Generation, World Capital of Ploussard

In Pupillin, the "world capital of Ploussard," Tony Bornard carries forward the legacy of his father Philippe — neighbor of Pierre Overnoy and pillar of Jura natural wine. Since 2017, Tony has merged his own estate with the family domaine to command 11.5 hectares of biodynamic vines, producing Vin Jaune, Macvin, and the light, ethereal reds that define the region.

11.5
Hectares
2017
Tony Takes Over
55k
Bottles/Year
Pupillin • Jura

From Philippe to Tony

Philippe Bornard was a pillar of the Jura natural wine movement, a neighbor and friend of the legendary Pierre Overnoy in the village of Pupillin. In 2005, he founded Domaine Bornard, establishing a reputation for wines of purity and finesse. His son Tony grew up in the vines, then left to study winemaking and gain experience abroad — working in France, the United States, Australia, and New Zealand. His time in Australia proved formative, teaching him to avoid invasive techniques and cementing his natural wine philosophy.

In 2011, Tony returned to Pupillin and quietly established his own 2.5-hectare estate in 2013, farming biodynamically and creating wines under his own label. In 2017, he took over the family estate from his retiring father, merging the two properties to create an 11.5-hectare domaine. He now works from a state-of-the-art winery in Pupillin's oldest building — the same structure where he grew up — with a dedicated area for maturing the white wines that are the lifeblood of the Jura.

"Tony is a meticulous operator both in the vineyard and in the winery. He has a very clear vision about what he wants to achieve and how he is going to achieve it. He is particularly interested in how he manages the soil in his vineyards to ensure longevity for the vines through the health of the soil."

— Living Wines

World Capital of Ploussard

Pupillin is officially the "world capital of Ploussard" — the tiny village near Arbois where the Poulsard grape (locally called Ploussard) achieves its most ethereal expression. The Bornard estate spans 11.5 hectares here, planted across complex marl and limestone soils: grey marl, black marl, red marl, and Triassic Keuper formations studded with fossilized shells. The Kimmeridgian and Portlandian layers give the wines their characteristic mineral grip and saline finish.

Tony farms biodynamically and organically (certified), focusing on soil health as the foundation of longevity. The vineyards are planted to all five Jura varieties: Ploussard (Poulsard) — the flagship — plus Trousseau, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Savagnin. There's also a rare parcel of Melon à Queue Rouge, a Chardonnay variant with red stems that Philippe grandfathered and Tony continues to cultivate despite its small berries and disease susceptibility. The INAO doesn't recognize it, but Bornard keeps it alive.

The Terroir

Grey, black, and red marl soils with Triassic Keuper limestone. The famous "Pupillin" sign marks one of Tony's parcels near the N83 road — a site he acquired independently before merging with his father's estate. South, west, and east-facing exposures across multiple lieux-dits create complexity and diversity.

The Varieties

Ploussard (Poulsard) dominates — light, pale, low-tannin reds that are the village's signature. Trousseau for structure, Pinot Noir for depth, Chardonnay for mineral whites, Savagnin for Vin Jaune and oxidative styles, and the rare Melon à Queue Rouge — a living heirloom.

Freedom from Appellation

Tony's winemaking is minimal-intervention with a purpose: spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no additives, minimal or no added sulfites (often <10 mg/L), and a fierce commitment to expressing terroir over technical perfection. He vinifies each parcel separately, using gravity rather than pumps to move wines gently. Whites age for up to three years in large oak foudres; reds ferment in stainless steel or fiberglass before oak aging.

Perhaps most radically, Tony is gradually removing his wines from the appellation system. Most cuvées are now labeled Vin de France rather than Arbois-Pupillin or Côtes du Jura. "Le Ginglet," "Point Barre," and others have exited the AOC to give Tony freedom from the conservatism of the appellation authorities. The exception is Vin Jaune — Tony keeps this in the appellation because without it, he couldn't use the term "Vin Jaune" or sell it in the distinctive 620ml Clavelin bottles. It's a pragmatic compromise for a purist.

Le Ginglet

In the local patois, "Ginglet" means both "having a drink" and "having fun." It's the name of Tony's flagship Trousseau — a light, bright, eminently drinkable red that embodies the spirit of Pupillin. Vinified without appellation constraints to preserve its joyful, unmanipulated character.

The Red Fox

The Bornard labels carry an iconic red fox — the domaine's totem and instantly recognizable symbol in natural wine bars from Paris to Tokyo. When Tony took over, he kept the fox but simplified the design, stripping away excess text to let the animal speak. Now the labels are minimalist: the wine name, the fox, and "Tony Bornard" — nothing else.

For special cuvées, Tony enlists his sister Charlène — a designer and artist working in Lyon. She created the label for "Au Fil des Générations," a cuvée born from the devastating 2017 frost that forced Tony to combine all his grapes into one wine. The label features a small Bornard fox hidden in the center, a nod to heritage and continuity. It's a family affair: father Philippe's legacy, Tony's vision, Charlène's art.

"The famous red fox still stands on the labels as the totem... Tony keeps at heart to maintain the family tradition while making it his own."

— La Cabane

The Tony Bornard Range

All wines are biodynamic, hand-harvested, fermented with native yeasts, and bottled with minimal or no sulfur. The range spans light Ploussard glou-glou, structured Trousseau, traditional Vin Jaune aged under voile, experimental amphora-aged orange wines, and Pet-Nats. Annual production is approximately 55,000 bottles across two appellations (Arbois-Pupillin and Côtes du Jura) though increasingly labeled as Vin de France.

Le Ginglet
Trousseau
The flagship. From gravelly soils and red marl. "Ginglet" in local patois means having a drink and having fun — exactly what this wine delivers. Light, bright, eminently drinkable with fresh minerality. Tony's first Vin de France cuvée, no longer submitted to appellation authorities. ~$81.
Red
Point Barre
Ploussard (Poulsard)
"Full stop" — Ploussard, period. Nothing else, no added sulfites. Destemmed, macerated in stainless steel for a month, then infused with marc from "La Chamade" for extra complexity. Pure, silky, ethereal with red currants, citrus, saddle leather and cinnamon. The 2022 is darker and more profound than usual.
Ploussard
La Chamade
Ploussard
"La Chamade" means the pounding of the heart when drinking good wine. Darker, longer, silkier than Point Barre — exactly the style Living Wines prefers. Three weeks maceration in fiberglass, then one year in large wooden foudre. Wild strawberry, cherry, earthy finish. Lou Amdur of Lou's Wine Bar: "Before you know it, you are staring sadly at an empty bottle."
Ploussard
Le Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir
From 25-30 year old vines in black and red marl near the famous Pupillin sign. A more serious Pinot than the early-drinking "Le Pinot Ctambule." Aged in a single 400-liter barrel with gentle pigeage and pump-over. Supple, good fruit, some length — Burgundian influence an hour's drive away, but distinctly Jurassien.
Red
Vin Jaune
Savagnin
The classic. Savagnin aged under voile (flor yeast) for minimum 6 years and 3 months in old 228-liter barrels, not topped up. Sold in the traditional 620ml Clavelin bottle — one of the few wines Tony keeps within the appellation because without "Vin Jaune" on the label, it would cause confusion. Spices, curry, nuts, cinnamon, gingerbread, citrus. ~$237.
Vin Jaune
Les Chassagnes
Savagnin Ouillé
From the lieu-dit Les Chassagnes in Côtes du Jura, just outside Pupillin. Triassic Keuper marl with easterly exposition. Fermented in foudre and tank, aged two years on lees, topped up (ouillé). Now labeled Vin de France. Smoky, aromatic, intense with freshness. Tony says it will age 30 years. 12.6% ABV.
Ouillé
Melon Le Rouge Queue
Melon à Queue Rouge
The rare Chardonnay variant with red stems, unrecognized by INAO but kept alive by Philippe and Tony. Minty, green apple, generous but with riveting acidity. Fermented in fiberglass then aged in old Burgundy barrels and demi-muids. Oxidative notes, big, fruity, razor-sharp. Extraordinary and limited. ~$131.
Rare Variety
Tant Mieux
Ploussard
A pink Pét-Nat (pétillant naturel) from Ploussard. Fermentation completes in bottle, no disgorging, no added sugar. Low alcohol (~9%), appealing residual sweetness, yeasty and flirty. The perfect afternoon wine, sunset wine, end-of-night wine. One of the most sought-after Bornard cuvées.
Pét-Nat
Vin (Jo) Liqueur / Macvin
Chardonnay with Marc
The local fortified wine style, though Tony's version is labeled Vin de Table rather than Macvin du Jura (he prefers a lighter 17% alcohol to the required 14.5%). Chardonnay juice heated over fire to concentrate, then blended with estate-made marc (aged 18 months to 10 years) and "fine" from lees. Aged 7+ years in barrel. Joli Coeur — "happy heart." 700ml. ~$93.
Fortified
Au Fil des Générations
Field Blend
Created in 2017, 2019, and 2021 when severe frost destroyed 85% of crops. A blend of all available grapes (Chardonnay, Ploussard, etc.) to make one white and one red from the entire harvest. Label designed by sister Charlène using old family labels as inspiration. A tribute to Philippe, grandfather, and all who came before. Limited and special.
Frost Cuvée