Vouette &
Sorbée
"Rien de chimique. zéro synthétique, que de la vie!" Nothing chemical, zero synthetic, only life. The slogan of Bertrand Gautherot, the spiritual father of the Côte des Bar, who proved that Burgundian terroir in Champagne's southern frontier could produce wines of singular personality—without dosage, without compromise.
If you had predicted in 1986 that Buxières-sur-Arce, nestled in the hills south of Troyes, would be home to one of Champagne's most heralded récoltants, you would have been greeted with a blank stare or derision. Yet Bertrand Gautherot—who took over his family's vineyards in 1986 and spent years selling grapes to large houses in the north—converted to biodynamics in 1998 (Demeter certified, the first in the region) and released his first Champagne in 2001, inspired by friend Anselme Selosse. Today, he enjoys near cult-like status, championed by Richard Juhlin as "the only 4-star property outside the Marne." [^120^] [^128^] [^121^]
The Marketing Department
The first thing Bertrand shows visitors is his cows. "Having animals like cows and chickens around is important for cultivating biodiversity... But that's not the only reason I have them. My cows are important to me because they regulate my mood. If I'm in a bad mood, they know it, and they'll let me know that they know it." They provide compost for 5 hectares plus gardens and fruit trees. [^120^] [^146^]
Bertrand & Héloïse
Bertrand is now joined by daughter Héloïse, bringing fresh energy to the estate. If asked, Bertrand will say he is a farmer first and foremost. "The culture of the vine is my passion." The estate operates as a nearly self-sustaining enclosed ecosystem with chickens, cattle, and wild yeast cultivation. [^126^] [^128^]
The Geological Mirror
Three quarters Kimmeridgian marl (like Chablis), one quarter Portlandian limestone. Located 60km from Chablis, 130km from Reims. The Aube was historically more Burgundian than Champenois—Bertrand proves it still is.
Vouette
Kimmeridgian marl
Replanted to Chardonnay 2014
South-facing slope
Sorbée
Portlandian limestone
Hard, rocky soils
Original inheritance
Biaunes
Kimmeridgian
Wild-planted Chardonnay
15-20 hl/ha yields
Fonnet
Enclosed valley
Pinot Noir & Pinot Blanc
Heart of Fidèle
Châtel
Ville-sur-Arce
Rocky, limestone-rich
20+ year old vines
In 2000, Bertrand planted Chardonnay wild—without preparing soils—among native vegetation at Biaunes, using mass-selection cuttings from Anselme Selosse's vines in Avize and Vincent Dauvissat's Valmur Grand Cru. This "totally crazy idea" became the basis for Blanc d'Argile, which Antonio Galloni calls "one of the most beautiful and distinctive wines in Champagne." [^140^]
"I pay much more attention to the vines than to the wine. For me, the wine is like an extra gift."— Bertrand Gautherot on his philosophy
The Wines
All single-harvest base wines (noted by 'R' on the back label), though Fidèle includes 5% reserve wine from a perpetual blend started in 2001. Fermented in used Burgundy barrels (from Arnaud Ente), some Georgian amphorae, with indigenous yeasts. No chaptalization, no filtering, no fining, no dosage, minimal sulfur (~27-30mg/L). Disgorged entirely by hand. [^126^] [^128^]
100% Pinot Noir from Kimmeridgian soils (Fonnet, Sorbée, Châtel). A "dangerous wine"—the bottle disappears so quickly. Dried cherry fruit, savory, herbal intensity, vinous backbone. Fermented in used Meursault barrels, 15-20 months on lees. [^121^] [^140^]
Chardonnay from Biaunes, Vouette, Fonnet. 15-20 hl/ha yields. Fermented in 500/600L barrels with a portion in Georgian amphorae. "Cold-earth undertones, clay soused in lemon juice, wheatgerm savoury sweetness." Were it not for bubbles, you could be drinking Grand Cru Chablis. [^140^]
From Portlandian soils of Sorbée. Deep concentrated pomegranate and raspberry, savory, peppery, meaty flavors. "As if Gautherot bled the terroir of this vineyard straight into this idiosyncratic and singular Champagne." One of their most original bottlings. [^121^]
Experimental cuvée from Fonnet (15-year-old vines). Fermented and aged in both French oak barrels and Georgian amphorae for nine months. Ripe, voluminous, unmistakable Pinot Blanc charm of orange rind and minerals, but with bubbles. Smells like warm, freshly made focaccia. [^139^] [^145^]
Visit & Contact
Located in the hamlet of Buxières-sur-Arce, south of Troyes in the Aube. 5 hectares farmed entirely by hand, horses, and the famous "marketing department" (the cows). Disgorgement dates and base vintages listed on every bottle.
Address
Buxières-sur-Arce
Côte des Bar · Aube
Champagne, France
Philosophy
Demeter Since 1998
No Dosage · Brut Nature
Single Harvest Base Wines
Animals
Two Cows (Marketing Dept)
Chickens · Wild Yeasts
Self-Sustaining Ecosystem
Connect
By Appointment
Hand Disgorgement
Base Vintages Labeled