WasenhausBurgundian Soul in Baden
From roommates in Meursault to revolutionaries in Baden—Christoph Wolber and Alexander Götze apply biodynamic principles learned at de Montille, Leflaive, and Comte Armand to Germany's warmest wine region, crafting Spätburgunder of uncommon finesse.
From Burgundian cellars to the slopes of Baden—how two Germans met in Meursault and sparked a revolution in German Pinot Noir.
Christoph Wolber (raised in Baden) and Alexander Götze (from Dresden) met in Meursault while studying at the local wine school in Beaune. Christoph had arrived on a motorcycle pilgrimage after being captivated by a bottle of Bernard van Berg; Alex came through architecture and an obsession with Pierre Morey. They became roommates, and a plan was hatched [^1^][^8^].
Between them, they amassed nearly a decade of experience at Burgundy's most prestigious biodynamic estates: Leflaive, de Montille (where Alex became chef de culture), Comte Armand, Pierre Morey, and Domaine de la Vougeraie. In 2016, they returned to Baden—just 2.5 hours from Burgundy—to start Wasenhaus, named after Christoph's family horse farm [^1^][^2^][^8^].
Starting with just 0.5 hectares, they sought out vineyards that cooperatives had abandoned—steep, difficult sites requiring handwork that industrial agriculture couldn't profitably farm. They now work approximately 6 hectares owned plus fruit from organic neighbors, focusing exclusively on old vines and historic clones [^8^][^1^][^2^].
"If you stop, you're dead"—constant reflection and adaptation. Burgundian know-how meets Baden terroir through organic farming and minimal intervention.
Wasenhaus practices organic viticulture with biodynamic elements, though they pursue no certification. They work only by hand, harvesting everything manually and using an ancient mechanical screw press with chains that grind skins and stems, creating a turbid must with high solids. This "superfood" for yeast creates a reductive environment that allows them to work with minimal sulfur—never exceeding 30-50ppm and only added after malolactic fermentation [^1^][^8^].
Their approach to whole cluster fermentation is nuanced: unlike standard Burgundian practice, they adjust based on clone material. Many German Pinot clones from the 1960s-70s were selected for high yields and produce large, green stems unsuitable for whole bunch work. They destem or use whole cluster depending on the specific vineyard's vine material [^8^].
All wines ferment with natural yeasts in open-top vats (reds) or old barrels (whites), then age on lees over two winters in mostly used Burgundian barrels. There is no pumping, fining, or filtration. As Alex notes: "You constantly reflect on how you can create the wines you like to drink. It's a permanent state of adaptation... If you stop, you're dead!" [^8^][^9^]
Zero Inertia
Markgräflerland—limestone, volcanic, and löess soils between the Black Forest and Vosges. Steep vineyards too difficult for tractors.
Ehrenstetten
The heart of Wasenhaus holdings. Single vineyards Bellen, Kanzel, and Möhlin sit within the historic Ehrenstettener Ölberg. Shallow limestone and clay soils on steep slopes requiring 100% handwork. Some vines here date to the 1960s [^2^].
Vulkan
Forty minutes north in the volcanic Kaiserstuhl (Eichstetten and Jechtingen), Germany's warmest wine district. Dark volcanic soils soak up sun, creating powerful Spätburgunder. The "Vulkan" bottling represents this distinct geological counterpoint to their limestone sites [^2^][^7^].
Granite
A patchwork of geology defines Baden. Löess topsoil—fine wind-deposited mineral-rich silt—rounds out the edges of wines and brings soft richness. Granite and diverse rock types create the "myriad of small geological units" that give each vineyard distinct character [^1^][^2^].
From village-level varieties to single-vineyard "Grand Crus"—a Burgundian hierarchy expressed through Baden's diverse terroirs.
Spätburgunder • Chardonnay • Weissburgunder
The foundation of the range—village-level expressions from younger vines (though exact parcels vary by vintage). The Spätburgunder shows uncommon lightness and clarity; the Chardonnays are compelling; but the Weissburgunders are revelatory—texturally elegant, pure expressions of the variety that rival the finest white Burgundy [^2^][^3^].
Kalk
The limestone counterpoint. Sourced largely from 40-year-old vines in Ebringen (plus other limestone parcels), this Spätburgunder expresses the cool, chalky minerality of Baden's Jurassic formations. A vivid, detailed wine showing tension and energy [^2^].
Vulkan
The volcanic expression from Kaiserstuhl. Sourced from Eichstetten and Jechtingen at higher altitude on dark, sun-soaking volcanic soils. This is Wasenhaus's "Vosne-Romanée" moment—powerful, rich, and deeply colored, offering a stark contrast to their limestone sites [^2^][^7^].
Bellen
A "Grand Cru" parcel between Kirchhofen and Pfaffenweiler within the Ehrenstettener Ölberg. Limestone and clay on steep slopes. Both Spätburgunder and Weissburgunder are produced here—arguably their finest wines, difficult to place anywhere other than Burgundy. Majestic, complete, monumental [^2^].
Möhlin
Sitting below Kanzel with views of the Möhlin stream. Very shallow, poor limestone soils on southeastern exposure with tight rows planted on poles (trellised). The most soulful vineyard—tight, coiled, and majestic. Both Spätburgunder and Weissburgunder express a "wonderful sense of place" [^2^].
Kanzel • Filzen • Hohlen
Kanzel: A tiny site at the top of Öhlberg with eastern exposition, cooler and less sun-exposed—historic parcel made famous by Henrik Möbitz. Filzen: Steep, cool, limestone-rich Kirchhofen site for Chardonnay. Hohlen: Newer acquisition (2022) in Zunzingen—poor limestone and gravel with 1960s-vine Spätburgunder [^2^].
Gutedel • Riesling
Small production curiosities. Gutedel (Chasselas) receives special treatment—one-third skin-macerated for ten days to create texture. Limited Riesling also produced. These showcase the duo's experimental side while maintaining their "low-tech" ethos [^8^].
The New Baden
Wasenhaus represents a paradigm shift in German fine wine. While cooperatives dominate 80% of Baden production with chemically-dependent, tractor-dependent agriculture, Wolber and Götze prove that handwork and humility yield transcendence. They have no interest in replicating Burgundy—instead, they allow Baden's diverse geology (limestone, volcanic, granite, löess) to speak through Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with unprecedented clarity [^1^][^8^].
Their commitment to abandoned steep vineyards—sites too difficult for industrial farming—preserves not just old vines but a model of sustainable viticulture. With Alex now full-time since 2020 (previously splitting time with de Montille), the project enters a new era of "detail orientation." The wines, already allocated to collectors worldwide and compared to the Côte d'Or's finest, are merely the beginning [^8^][^18^].
- Burgundian training applied to German terroir
- Revival of abandoned steep vineyards
- Preservation of pre-1960s Pinot clones
- Mechanical screw press (ancestral technology)
- No pumping, fining, or filtration
- Sulfur only after malo, max 30-50ppm
- Organic/biodynamic (uncertified)
- Cult allocations: UK, US, Denmark, Australia
- "Chamber music" precision vs "punk rock" wildness