Clos Fantine: A Biodynamic Legacy in Faugères, Languedoc

Clos Fantine, a biodynamic estate nestled in the heart of Faugères, Languedoc, is run by siblings Carole, Olivier, and Corine Andrieu. With a focus on sustainability and respect for nature, the estate embodies a dedication to natural wine production. The family’s commitment to biodynamic methods and minimal intervention has shaped Clos Fantine into a respected name in the wine world.

The estate was initially conceived by their father, Jacques Andrieu, who set the foundation for what would become a forward-thinking, chemical-free vineyard. Jacques, who spent time working in Paris before returning to the land, was an early advocate for organic and biodynamic practices. Under his guidance, Clos Fantine started to flourish, and he was a member of the Autignac cooperative, which is no longer active due to the ongoing crisis in cooperative wine production in the region.

After Jacques passed away in 1997, his children took over the estate and began bottling their own wine in 2000. They soon embarked on a journey of radical natural winemaking by eliminating all vinification additives, including sulfites, by 2003. Since then, Clos Fantine has become a symbol of minimal intervention winemaking, with a focus on producing wines that express the true character of their terroir.

One of the key principles at Clos Fantine is the rejection of chemical fertilizers and plowing. For over 50 years, no fertilizers have been used on the estate, allowing the vines to develop what some might call "natural immunity"—a resistance to disease and pests. The estate's unique approach involves using sheep to manage grasses and weeds instead of conventional plowing, allowing the natural ecosystem to thrive. This method not only benefits the vines but also promotes biodiversity across the land.

With an average yield of just 12 hectoliters per hectare, Clos Fantine is known for its low production, which contributes to the quality and uniqueness of its wines. The estate covers 30 hectares, and while Olivier focuses on the farming practices, Corine leads the vinification process, and Carole handles sales and administration. However, all siblings are involved in various aspects of the estate's operations, embodying a spirit of teamwork and shared responsibility.

The Andrieu siblings also made the decision to stop plowing the estate in 2014, opting instead to maintain the ground naturally, with grass managed through a combination of sheep grazing and mowing. For several years, from 2011 to 2018, the family adopted a minimalist approach, refraining from using Bordeaux mixture treatments, a common fungicide in wine production. This period of experimentation earned them recognition for their commitment to radical, Fukuoka-inspired minimalism, treating the land as naturally as possible.

However, in 2018, the estate faced a setback when an aggressive attack of black rot and mildew decimated parts of the vineyard. Since then, the Andrieu family has adopted a more balanced approach, using Bordeaux mixture treatments on certain parcels, though many still remain untreated, even in wet years like 2021. Despite these challenges, Clos Fantine remains a beacon of natural winemaking, producing wines that reflect the land’s true character.

Clos Fantine also managed to escape the devastating frosts of 2021, with only 2 hectares suffering significant damage. Yet, the estate’s yields remain consistently low, hovering just under 12HL/ha this year, as the family continues to focus on quality over quantity. The reds are primarily vinified in large 60HL cement tanks, with about 80% of the harvest destemmed. The wines undergo maceration for a little over a week, with no pigeage, allowing the natural fermentation process to unfold with minimal interference.

The estate's history is deeply intertwined with the family’s dedication to the land. Carole shared that their grandmother was born on the estate and inherited three hectares of land. Jacques, recognizing the importance of preserving the family's heritage, invested in expanding the vineyard and developing the estate, laying the groundwork for the natural winemaking practices that his children would later champion.

Today, Clos Fantine stands as a testament to the Andrieu family's unwavering commitment to biodynamic farming and natural wine production. Their wines, crafted with care and respect for nature, offer a glimpse into the unique terroir of Faugères, Languedoc, and the legacy of a family deeply connected to their land.