Tradition and Terroir: A Journey Through Domaine de Montbourgeau

In the heart of the Jura, in the village of L’Étoile, Domaine de Montbourgeau embodies the spirit of tradition and respect for nature that defines this storied wine region. Since 1920, when Victor Gros first planted vines on the estate, three generations of the same family have carried on the legacy—each contributing to the domaine’s quiet evolution while staying true to its roots.

A Family Legacy Rooted in Jura

Domaine de Montbourgeau has been a family-run estate from the start. After Victor Gros laid the foundations, his son Jean Gros took over in 1956 and expanded the vineyards. In 1986, Jean’s daughter, Nicole Deriaux, joined the family business and now oversees the entire operation. With her three sons poised to take the reins, the future of the estate remains in capable hands.

Nestled in L’Étoile, a small appellation in the southwestern Jura, the estate sits among rolling hills whose star-shaped formation—along with the presence of ancient starfish fossils in the soil—gives the village its name. This tiny appellation spans just 52 hectares, shared among L’Étoile and neighboring villages Planoiseau, Saint-Didier, and Quintigny.

Vines with Purpose, Wines with Soul

Today, the domaine cultivates nine hectares of vineyards, primarily dedicated to Chardonnay, with 1.7 hectares planted to Savagnin. Smaller parcels of Trousseau and Poulsard complete the mosaic of traditional Jura varieties. The viticulture is organic, and all vineyard work is done with the utmost respect for the land.

For over 15 years, the team has practiced a thoughtful approach to soil health—alternating between cover crops and green manures. They plant their own vines and even craft their acacia stakes by hand. This hands-on dedication extends through every stage of production.

All harvesting is done manually. In the cellar—tucked beneath the family home—fermentation begins in stainless steel tanks before the wines are transferred into large oak foudres, demi-muids, and smaller used barrels. The whites are aged traditionally: no racking, no topping up. This allows the wines to develop the distinctive oxidative character that defines many Jura classics.

Embracing Innovation While Honoring Heritage

While the domaine continues to produce its well-known cuvées with care and consistency, the younger generation is beginning to explore new paths—experimenting with parcel-specific bottlings and fresh expressions of the terroir. Their curiosity is balanced by deep respect for the traditions passed down to them.

Visitors are welcome at the estate, where they can taste the wines and learn firsthand about the family’s philosophy, methods, and the singular charm of the Jura landscape. Each bottle from Domaine de Montbourgeau is a testament to time, tradition, and terroir—an authentic expression of one of France’s most captivating and under-the-radar wine regions.