Tailleurs Cailleurs: A Vineyard with a Vision in the Heart of Bugey

Tailleurs Cailleurs, meaning "pruners-pickers," is a unique vineyard based in the charming village of Saint-Jean-lè-Vieux, located on the northern side of the Bugey region. This picturesque area serves as the home for Chloé Bey and Jordan d'Osualdo, who cultivate several small plots of land scattered throughout the region. Their approach to viticulture is rooted in organic and biodynamic practices, aiming to create a vibrant and flourishing ecosystem around their vines. Notably, they do not use sulfur at any stage of the winemaking process, and their wines undergo aging in demi-muids (large oak barrels) before being bottled without filtration. This minimal intervention philosophy allows their wines to speak naturally of their terroir.

Dedicated to a strong principle: deepening the connection between the vine and its environment. Their debut wines are full of this energy, reflecting their vision. Often overshadowed by its neighboring region, Savoie, the Bugey area is increasingly making a name for itself. With its diverse grape varieties and landscapes, it offers a welcoming haven for winemakers seeking to reconnect with nature—many of whom are finding their roots here. Chloé, originally from Nîmes, and Jordan, from Alsace, first met while working the harvest at Bruno Schueller’s vineyard in 2018. Their shared passion for winemaking led them to travel together, working at places such as Denis Montanar's vineyard in Friuli, Italy, before the idea of establishing their own winery began to take shape.

In 2020, an opportunity arose when a property in Bugey went up for sale. The harvest season was approaching, and while Chloé and Jordan were preparing to settle in, the sellers backed out. Undeterred, they convinced several local landowners to sell them small vineyard parcels. They found a building in Saint-Jean-lè-Vieux (near Cerdon) that would serve as their winemaking facility, and after some renovation, it was ready to receive their 2021 harvest.

Diverse Terroirs and Expressions

Eight cuvées from their first vintage might seem like a lot for a small vineyard, but it’s easy to understand why the couple chose parcel-based vinifications when you visit their vines. Their initial setback allowed them to carefully select each parcel, varying altitudes and exposures. Local landowners, often more willing to sell their vines than in other regions, allowed the couple to secure plots with diverse terroirs and grape varieties. The vineyard is made up of Gamay, Mondeuse, Pinot Noir, Poulsard, and Chardonnay.

The plots are situated near the winery and spread across three sectors: a northern valley at high altitude in the Poncieux area, home to the oldest Gamay vines; several parcels and grape varieties under the Château de Varey; and another valley at a lower altitude in the Dalivoy sector, which includes a Chardonnay parcel. Visiting the Poncieux vines, you get a sense of the unique qualities of this "High Bugey" region. The winding paths quickly climb steep slopes, and the valleys are narrow, almost secluded, offering limited views compared to the southern Bugey. The slopes are often sharp, and the soils at the top of the hills can suffer from erosion. Jordan and Chloé's approach focuses on achieving balance across all the plots.

Tailleurs Cailleurs: An Ecosystem at the Vine’s Core

The name "Tailleurs Cailleurs" was not chosen lightly. For Chloé and Jordan, the vine is at the center of a true ecosystem. They prioritize biodiversity, exploring agroforestry and the role of animals as integral elements of their farming practices. Jordan has even expressed his desire to see cows grazing in the vineyard. The couple has already planted a variety of fruit trees, and they plan to continue diversifying the flora in the coming years. The soils are covered and left undisturbed, with weeds simply flattened using a roller. While they refrain from turning the soil, they are not opposed to amendments (such as Bokashi composting) in areas where the vines may suffer from deficiencies.

Through their dedication to minimal intervention, organic practices, and a deep respect for the natural environment, Tailleurs Cailleurs is setting a new standard for sustainable winemaking in the Bugey region. Their wines reflect not only the diversity of their terroirs but also the harmonious relationship between the vines, the land, and the broader ecosystem.