Lucas Madonia / Timothée Place
I recently took a trip to Ayent to visit and meet with the Domaine du Cherouche acolytes Lucas Madonia and Timothée Place during the Cave Ouverte du Valais. Unfortunately, only a few natural vignerons opened their doors for this event. Personally, I find visiting caves solo to be quite awkward, and I know I'm not alone in this feeling. Last year, during a trip to Beaune, I met some Japanese and South Korean importers who also feel uncomfortable visiting caves solo, as it feels like monopolizing precious time.
Despite this, I headed off to Ayent again, located in the middle part of Valais on the sunny, eastern-facing granite and calcite gentle slopes. With over 300 days of sunshine a year and natural protection from frost in the winter, this region is the epicenter of the Swiss natural wine movement. It's home to notable names like Mythopia, Domaine de Cherouche, Lucas Madonia, and Timothée Place. Most tend the vines rented out gradually by Marc Balzan and Andrea Grossmann of Domaine de Cherouche as they look to farm the plots closest to their home.
The only cave open to the public offering natural, unsulfated wines, now in its fourth generation under vigneron Florian Besse, is located in Plan du Crisie, with small parcels scattered on the slopes above Martigny.
Fendant Orange stood out, while the Syrah was also lovely, having tasted it at the Salon du Vin Nature Suisse last August and again here.
The reds are priced at a hefty 38 CHF.
The offerings include Gamaret, Syrah (the standout red), Gamay, Fendant, Fendant Orange, and a Pet Nat.